Pc not working after intense gaming

when shopping for deals, just make sure the PSU has the 80 plus certification. It means the product has been tested and is able to keep efficiency above 80% even at full load.
Crappy PSUs die when asked more than half their "stated" output, and very rarely can survive at "full load" for any amount of time.

And as others said, opening a PSU is a good way to die.

In case the power from the wall socket is jumpy (or dirty as others said), investing in a good UPS is a good idea.
It's entire point is ironing out such power weirdness AND keeping your stuff powered for a few minutes after power went down (and this is useful because it gives you time to save your work/game).

Is it any different than it was with the old power supply, or is it the same thing?

You should first go through the entire build and double check everything. Remove and reseat all parts, and look for dust, hair, corrosion, anything that may interfere with good contact.

Then I would perform a CLRTC. Those errors relate to component recognition and could be a checksum error of some sort.

CLRTC Procedure

• Note all your current BIOS settings
• Shut down the computer > remove the power cord.
• Remove the 3v battery.
• Move the CLRTC jumper from pins 1-2 to 2-3.
• Touch a metal part of the case and Press and Hold the reset button for approx. 30 seconds to discharge all power from the board.
• Put the CLRTC jumper back on pins 1-2.
• Replace the 3v battery > replace the power cord > boot.
• Immediately go back into BIOS and reset all your preferred settings. If the CLRTC worked you will need to reset the date and time.

And you could go for the replacement, particularly if the power supply was not the problem. The only problem you may have is that if the old supply did fail and damaged the motherboard in the process (which is very common) you may not be eligible. I cannot say whether they will check anything that close though.

You could try and test the motherboard for damage, or try and identify another damaged component, this way:


The Test (power off, power cord unplugged):

• Disconnect everything externally connected except the mouse and keyboard (printers, USB devices, etc). If you are not using a wired mouse and keyboard see if you can borrow one. The wireless device is just another component you have to deal with.
• Disconnect the power and data cables from all the drives inside the computer (Hard drives, DVD/CD drives, etc).
• Remove all the cards installed in the expansion slots (PCI/PCI-e) including the video card. (Be careful handling them and place them on a non conductive surface while testing).
• Remove all the RAM sticks (same rules as above).

Now connect the power cord and turn the PC on.

• The motherboard should start beeping. You should get a beep code that tells you there is no memory. This is good, it means the processor is functioning and the motherboard is good so far.
• Now add one stick of memory in Slot A1 and power on. More beeping: "no video card" beep code. This is good.
• Then add the video card and connect it to the monitor. You should get no beeping and you should see the BIOS start screens, ending with the message that there is no boot device.
• If you get no video then switch the one memory stick installed for another one and test.
• If you do get video then start adding components back, one at a time, until the system fails to boot. The last component you added is then the problem component.

That is an X79 board?

They changed the world and nobody told me....

Fortunately I have just recently watched a video on that board. You have a CLRTC switch on the back of the case in the I/O panel! The procedure would be exactly the same, just you get to push a button and I still have to move a jumper.

Looking at your manual you also have a dual BIOS. You can switch between 2 different BIOS settings by using the BIOS button on the board. I'm not sure that will help in this case, but if the CLRTC doesn't do anything you might give that a shot too.

Further complicating things: looks like Asus is calling the procedure ClearCMOS just like everyone else now.

Clear CMOS and CLRTC are the same thing. "Clear the Real Time Clock"