CPU overheating problem

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  1. Posts : 2,973
    Windows 7 Professional 64bit SP1
       #11

    Call up Intel, tell them it's making a hell of a racket and not cooling your system and see if they will replace it. If mine went bad tomorrow, I'd go with the same unit because there isn't a nickels worth of difference in similar water coolers.
      My Computer


  2. Posts : 21,004
    Desk1 7 Home Prem / Desk2 10 Pro / Main lap Asus ROG 10 Pro 2 laptop Toshiba 7 Pro Asus P2520 7 & 10
    Thread Starter
       #12

    kbrady1979 said:
    Call up Intel, tell them it's making a hell of a racket and not cooling your system and see if they will replace it. If mine went bad tomorrow, I'd go with the same unit because there isn't a nickels worth of difference in similar water coolers.
    Yep I might do just that Kelly the current model being provided by my supplier is not this one but this one Intel BXTS13X Liquid Cooled Thermal Solution I suppose just a remake of this one but is more cost though.

    I shall have to mail Intel as I don't know if they have call centres out here and if they do the phone costs are just excessive for anything more than local calls

    John
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  3. Posts : 2,973
    Windows 7 Professional 64bit SP1
       #13

    If you have the box to the cooler, there should be an email address or toll free number to call about the product.....well, you'd think there would be anyway.
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  4. Posts : 25,847
    Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pro/64
       #14

    I don't have a Intel cooler but a Corsair H50.
    My inlet and out let tubes are at the top. I have tried them at the bottom and the temps were the same. Moved it back to the top just to get the tubing out of the way.
    Their is no noise coming from the pump and shouldn't be. It runs at 1440 rpm.
    Their should be no air in the system. If I remember correctly the system is filled using vacuum method.
    If the cooler is mounted correctly to the cpu changing the compound should never make a difference of more than 1 or 2 degrees C. If it does their is a mounting problem.
    If it was my computer and I new the monitoring programs was working correctly I would replace the LC cooler.
    Noise to me coming for a pump means the impeller is hitting the housing. I would not test with it any longer and risk destroying the cpu.
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  5. Posts : 21,004
    Desk1 7 Home Prem / Desk2 10 Pro / Main lap Asus ROG 10 Pro 2 laptop Toshiba 7 Pro Asus P2520 7 & 10
    Thread Starter
       #15

    Hmm well have got a "local" number in Sydney for Intel if I need it and the rad I distinctly remember shaking it and it sounded like it was only three quarters full hence my mounting the tubes at the bottom. I just wound the CPU cooler plate around to make it neat.

    Still will find out tomoor errr this afternoon when I turn it on - graveyard shift and forgot the day
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  6. Posts : 21,004
    Desk1 7 Home Prem / Desk2 10 Pro / Main lap Asus ROG 10 Pro 2 laptop Toshiba 7 Pro Asus P2520 7 & 10
    Thread Starter
       #16

    Well my friends it has gone south yet again. On start up form cold it shot straight to 47C and then on reboot to 71C. I could hear the impeller moving I think and the cooler block was warm to the touch. Another Speccy run crept it up yet further and then it just went haywire giving me that overheat warning again.

    I could get into the BIOS once and it confirmed the temp of 74C on reset the thing just shuts down with the one and four beep warnings.

    Now the pump is really warm and the tubes stone cold so I am guessing the pump has failed

    I am going to contact my supplier first to see what the go is if I have to I shall have to contact Intel or just go a new unit. Probably the latter is going to get me a result faster and the RMA if and when I gate one I can put it in the Sandy Bridge or keep in reserve as I intend a Haswell in the not too distant future.

    Now getting it out as I described yesterday is going to be a work of art as those buts at the back - see pic - I am going to have to devise a way of stopping them spinning in the retainers to allow full removal of the lock down plate and fittings on the CPU side of the board.

    Been a hell of a two days with this machine with the crash and now this following on it's heels.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails CPU overheating problem-mount.png  
      My Computer


  7. Posts : 2,973
    Windows 7 Professional 64bit SP1
       #17

    I really hate to hear that John. Here's what I would try to get it out. If I understand you correctly, when you try to loosen the pump hold down screw, the silver insert is spinning. I would grab a pair of needle-nose pliars, put the tip in the back of the insert and the other tip right on the outside of the plastic retainer. You should be able to get a grip and hold it there. Reach around to the other side and see if you can break the hold down screws loose. If you can, you should just be able to keep the metal inserts from spinning by just applying some pressure against it with your finger while you take the screws out. Let me know how that works.
      My Computer


  8. Posts : 21,004
    Desk1 7 Home Prem / Desk2 10 Pro / Main lap Asus ROG 10 Pro 2 laptop Toshiba 7 Pro Asus P2520 7 & 10
    Thread Starter
       #18

    kbrady1979 said:
    I really hate to hear that John. Here's what I would try to get it out. If I understand you correctly, when you try to loosen the pump hold down screw, the silver insert is spinning. I would grab a pair of needle-nose pliars, put the tip in the back of the insert and the other tip right on the outside of the plastic retainer. You should be able to get a grip and hold it there. Reach around to the other side and see if you can break the hold down screws loose. If you can, you should just be able to keep the metal inserts from spinning by just applying some pressure against it with your finger while you take the screws out. Let me know how that works.
    Ok Kelly I was thinking along the lines of just jamming a screwdriver tip in there but your method I think might not cause so much "damage" Mind you I could kick myself for using that screwdriver.

    In the meantime I might just get another unit from the supplier as the replacement will probably take longer than just buying again and like I said the replacement if they do one (they can be a bit funny sometimes with RMA's) I can use on the new build.
    I have a Coolermaster TX3 in one of the XP machines if worst comes to the worst and I need to get it going.
      My Computer


  9. Posts : 24,479
    Windows 7 Ultimate X64 SP1
       #19

    John you could also use some epoxy around the inserts and let it cure before taking the screws out. I'd not try jamming a screwdriver tip in there and risk wrecking the board if it slips.
      My Computer


  10. Posts : 25,847
    Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pro/64
       #20

    Those screws doing that could of been caused by the screws bottoming out in the nut before tension was put on the cooler mounting plate.

    Because of this the cooler was not tight against the cpu but the screws were tight against the nut. (Thread depth of the screws)

    This could also cause uneven pressure on the pump mounting causing the noise. (Impeller hitting the housing)
      My Computer


 
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