PC will Cold Boot but won't Warm boot?

newpgm · 15 Oct 2013

By cold boot I mean Shutdown, wait 30 seconds & press the power button to start it back up. Not giving anything time to cool off. I read somewhere it's proper to wait 30 seconds after a shutdown before powering the PC back up - in order to give the HD time to spin down. So after clicking on restart the machine shuts down all the way thru Windows & the monitor goes blank but the PSU never powers off until I hold the power button down for 10 seconds. Will admit tho many times over the past few days I have started it right back up without waiting 30 seconds. So definitely not enuff time for anything to cool off.

Normally when I restart this machine one of the fans will shutdown just momentarily - a mechanical shutdown, the fan whirring stops & then starts right back up. I always thought that was the PSU but suppose it could be the case fan, but I don't think the case fan would make a mechanical sound shutting off.

What kills me is after altering the BIOS settings then click F10 to exit & save - well then the PC does a restart. You can hear the mechanical click of the (I assume PSU shutting off) & the fan stops & starts back up. So the restart is working while exiting/saving BIOS but not when selecting Restart from Windows. Tho Shutdown from Windows does work fine. Takes the PC all the way down thru Windows & shuts the power off.

Layback Bear · 15 Oct 2013

What I'm trying to understand the differences in the way the computer acts between a Restart and a boot having to use the start button on the computer tower. Not holding the power button down.

Example:
1. To reboot (restart) your computer from the Start Orb you tick on Restart and no more inputs is needed from you. The computer does its thing.

2. A fresh boot (cold boot) computer is completely off including the power supply.
You push the power button on the tower (not holding it down) and the computer starts without you doing any thing else.

I'm trying to understand if (#1) isn't working properly or is it (#2)
that isn't working properly or both.
Try both #1 and #2 and let me know what happens.

Remember the proper way to shut down (turn off) a computer is just going to the Start Orb and selecting
Shut Down and nothing more.
Leave the power supply button alone.

Please make your answers short and to the point.
I get lost in the stories.

newpgm · 15 Oct 2013

#1 is not working properly. Click Start Orb & tick on Restart the machine shuts Windows down & the monitor goes blank but the PSU never shuts down & therefore the PC will not restart. I then have to hold the power button down for 10 seconds in order to get the power completely off.

#2 works as it should.

Proper shutdown - Start Orb and selecting Shut Down works perfectly. Machine shuts all the way down. No touching the power button.

Layback Bear · 15 Oct 2013

When you do a Restart the power supply shouldn't shut down.
After you do a Restart how long are you waiting to see if something happens?

Does it show you any information on the screen when you do a Restart?

AmericanPharaoh · 15 Oct 2013

Once I was plugging in wiring to MOBO from front panel switches, I had a crossed a wire and had some odd behavior. However, this may have nothing to do with your problem.

I assuming you have already eliminated any possibility of this issue being software related?

John

Layback Bear · 15 Oct 2013

Good call and thanks for the input johnsmith45jock.

I starting to think the instillation of the mother board and it's connection is where the problem is.
Wires not hook up correctly, In Out panel installed crooked causing a short or maybe ever the motherboard stand off installed wrong causing a short. The 24 or 8 pin connection install incorrectly I believe could cause this problem also.
That is the only thing left that I can think of.
I'm sure that newpgm will except any other ideas from other members.
Long time ago I found a sticky power button cause all kinds of goofy on off problems.

newpgm · 15 Oct 2013

Layback Bear said:

When you do a Restart the power supply shouldn't shut down.
After you do a Restart how long are you waiting to see if something happens?

Does it show you any information on the screen when you do a Restart?

Waited 10 minutes a couple times for the restart to occur, give it about two now before punching the power button. After clicking Restart Windows shuts down as it normally would & the monitor goes blank & that's it - stuck. But the PSU is still running.
Upon Cold Boot Windows fires up normally, no messages about a improper shutdown.

johnsmith45jock said:

Once I was plugging in wiring to MOBO from front panel switches, I had a crossed a wire and had some odd behavior. However, this may have nothing to do with your problem.

I assuming you have already eliminated any possibility of this issue being software related?

John

Hmm... Not plugging anything into the front panel switches, they came already attached the MOBO. All the wires I'm plugging in only fit one way, no way to cross them up.

Did run sfc /scannow & found no problems. It doesn't seem to me that Windows would be the culprit, isn't control passed over to the BIOS for the restart? Searched Event Viewer for messages that might help but found nothing, I will do that again with more tenacity.

Why would the PC successfully execute a restart while exiting from the BIOS (F10 - Save & Exit) but not when attempting a restart from Windows? Keep coming back to this statement I found:
Shutting down (cold boot) cuts the power to memory, which would clear things like RAM and such. It also cuts power to the peripheral devices, whereas restarting "may or may not" completely do this.

When you hit F2 during startup to access the BIOS, well does RAM initialize? Therefore Save/EXit from BIOS there's no RAM to clear & that's why it successfully restarts?

Since the Dust Off killed two memory slots perhaps it killed some memory too? The Cold Boot is allowing memory to clear whereas the Warm Boot is not?

Thanks

Edit: I have been trying to steer away from the OS as the culprit so hard that perhaps Windows is where I should be focused. Will give system recovery/repair a shot.

ICIT2LOL · 15 Oct 2013

johnsmith45jock said:

Once I was plugging in wiring to MOBO from front panel switches, I had a crossed a wire and had some odd behavior. However, this may have nothing to do with your problem.

I assuming you have already eliminated any possibility of this issue being software related?

John

Actually John I was going to suggest a sfc and a chkdsk but seeing the sfc has been done the chkdsk is still worth a try.

Persnoally I would like to get the meter on that pin 8 (grey cable on the 24 pin) to see what the Power_Good was showing up and if the OP wants to try that the volts should be between 2.4 and 6v for the timer chip to be triggered and therefore the rest of the machine

https://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/433-disk-check.html

and maybe these even if it is for elimination purposes.

http://www.malwarebytes.org/products/malwarebytes_free/

http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/download/adwcleaner/

download from bleeping computer

AmericanPharaoh · 15 Oct 2013

ICit2lol said:

johnsmith45jock said:

Once I was plugging in wiring to MOBO from front panel switches, I had a crossed a wire and had some odd behavior. However, this may have nothing to do with your problem.

I assuming you have already eliminated any possibility of this issue being software related?

John

Actually John I was going to suggest a sfc and a chkdsk but seeing the sfc has been done the chkdsk is still worth a try.

Persnoally I would like to get the meter on that pin 8 (grey cable on the 24 pin) to see what the Power_Good was showing up and if the OP wants to try that the volts should be between 2.4 and 6v for the timer chip to be triggered and therefore the rest of the machine

https://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/433-disk-check.html

and maybe these even if it is for elimination purposes.

http://www.malwarebytes.org/products/malwarebytes_free/

http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/download/adwcleaner/

download from bleeping computer

I overlooked CHKDSK, good point.

Considering all the changes which were made, installing a fresh copy of the OS may help expedite troubleshooting.

If new RAM sticks were installed with new MOBO, then we could possibly eliminate those, as well.

Looking at , PS (replaced), MOBO (Replaced), BIOS (?), RAM, WIRING, OS

The clicking noise OP hears at shutdown, sounds like PS relay.

John

newpgm · 15 Oct 2013

Yeah I did run a chkdsk too - no problems found.

Anyway it's now restarting - yay.

After installing replacement PSU (which is nice & quiet) & new RAM the PC began to BSOD unable to load image ntoskrnl.exe per crash dump/bug check. I have absolutely no idea how to read crash dumps but have had trouble with driver atikmdag since installing the Sapphire Radeon 7790.

So I ran the AMD Uninstall Utility in Safe Mode & when it asked me to restart gave it a shot - & it worked

. It is now restarting without issue since I have removed the Catalyst Control Center & all associated AMD drivers. The little clicking sound & fan stop/start noise is back. Going to run without any proprietary drivers for a bit & make sure everything is stable.

The AMD driver:
Yes I did follow the instructions here regarding Driver Sweeper. First using the AMD Uninstall Utility, then Driver Sweeper (restart between each) Then followed it up with CCleaner for good measure. Have tried three different AMD/Sapphire driver versions at this point. In fact I have been working my way thru the trouble shooting list for atikmdag crashes in AMD Article Number: 27116

About the only thing left to do on the ATIKMDAG troubleshooting list that applies to me is a clean install of the OS. Perhaps this is a good time for that.

Anyway I know you guys don't to hear a long story, that stinking driver is for another time.

thanks for all the help.