Possible PSU Failure?

ICit2lol said:

Jack did you try attaching a lead to pin 8 as I suggested and if so what did it read when running and if it actually dropped out.

Now you have to remember of course correct volts does not alway mean correct current.

Think of it as a car with a flat battery it may test perfect at 12 - 13v but try and crank the engine it may do that but leave no available current for the ignition and other essential circuits.

To test though you will need a fairly good ammeter and run a known current draw though it.

The other things are also possible too are any of the suspect components under warranty??

Hey John, thanks for the reply! I am sorry, I completely missed your original post the last time I replied. Thanks for the link, it was very informative. It does seem to be a Power_Good issue. I would be fine with testing the wire but the problem is I don't have a ammeter / voltmeter. Is there another way to test it without any devices like that? I would have no problem buying one because it is one of those things that everyone should have BUT if it can be done with out one that would be preferred due to the convenience factor.

Also no. None of the components are still under warranty. If they were I would have gone to the manufacture first instead of bugging you guys.

Indianatone said:

JackALope52x said:

Hey Gang,

So I was able to test the PSU tonight with the Power Supply Tester that I ordered the other day. I tested the 24-pin Motherboard connector, the 8-pin CPU connector, both 6-pin connectors, all the SATA cables, and the Molex cable. The frustrating thing is that all the voltages read normal. I attached a picture of the reading for the 24-pin and 8-pin connectors just so you could see.

Since the PSU is testing fine, what else could causing this? Is it a faulty graphics card or motherboard? I am kind of out of ideas on this one. Anymore help would be much appreciated and thanks for sticking with me on this.

Have you had any issues since you updated the video driver?

Yeah, it doesn't seem like the driver update changed anything. It is a bummer because the free fix would have been nice. Thanks for the tip anyways, it was most definitely worth the try.

Jack just as a matter of info the meter you need are very cheap these days you you need a digital one because an analogue one injects 9v into a circuit which I am sure will know will do no good the the board!!

Something like this is ideal Newegg.com - Digital Multimeter

Plus when testing place the black lead to the case or one of the board fixing screws try not to use the blacks in the 24 socket - you can but the other site are for more reliable for preciseness. In fact you can get crocodile clips to fit the black probe to attach and forget leaving one hand free

ICit2lol said:

Jack just as a matter of info the meter you need are very cheap these days you you need a digital one because an analogue one injects 9v into a circuit which I am sure will know will do no good the the board!!

Something like this is ideal Newegg.com - Digital Multimeter

Plus when testing place the black lead to the case or one of the board fixing screws try not to use the blacks in the 24 socket - you can but the other site are for more reliable for preciseness. In fact you can get crocodile clips to fit the black probe to attach and forget leaving one hand free

Awesome, thanks for providing a link. I figured they would be more expensive ($40 - $50). I think I can spare $9. I will look around and order one tonight. The best thing about Newegg is that I live about 15 miles from their warehouse so it only takes a day or two for shipments to get to me.

No mate some of the el cheapo shops you would pick them up for around $4-5 :)

They also good for measuring resistances to so if you need to know say a connection is patent set the meter to resistance and touch the two ends of that connection for example a cable or one of its leads but not while there is power on :)

They just lowered these another $10

CORSAIR HX Series HX850 850W ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12V 2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply New 4th Gen CPU Certified Haswell Ready - Newegg.com

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817139034

Cripes Jack that is such a good price I have two HX's a 650 and a 1050 the latter was on offer and the only reason I bought it. The 650 powers the Sandy Bridge without batting an eyelid I'd get it in a heartbeat mate if it were me they are just shy of $300 out here!!:)

AddRAM said:

They just lowered these another $10

CORSAIR HX Series HX850 850W ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12V 2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply New 4th Gen CPU Certified Haswell Ready - Newegg.com

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817139034

Thanks for the link AddRAM. I see that that is your resolution to the problem.

ICit2lol said:

Cripes Jack that is such a good price I have two HX's a 650 and a 1050 the latter was on offer and the only reason I bought it. The 650 powers the Sandy Bridge without batting an eyelid I'd get it in a heartbeat mate if it were me they are just shy of $300 out here!!:)

Agreed, that is an amazing price. Before I jump the gun though, I was going to test out the POWER_GOOD cable on the PSU like you suggested. I called my old man and figured out that he has a pretty nice Multimeter. I was going to pick it up tonight so I could test the power supply.

Quick question though. If the cable tests OK, does that mean my PSU probably isn't the issue? The PSU Tester showed proper voltages and didn't register issues. Again, I do believe the problem is the power supply BUT I would like to have at least a little hard evidence to prove that before I go out and get another one. Sorry if I am dragging this on and sounding repetitive.

Thanks again everyone for all your help so far,
JackALope

The shot of the PSU tester showed your voltages OK which may mean the PSU is OK and the PWR_OK is working.
Power Good Signal - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Have you tried a hardware monitor software such as HWinfo to read volts under full loads? Sorry if I missed it.

Britton30 said:

The shot of the PSU tester showed your voltages OK which may mean the PSU is OK and the PWR_OK is working.
Power Good Signal - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Have you tried a hardware monitor software such as HWinfo to read volts under full loads? Sorry if I missed it.

I agree Gary but I am still saying that correct volts do not necessarily mean correct current plus at that price the PSU is a steal - for me out here I would not give it a second thought.

I did find this though it is 2009 PSU stress test program? - Overclockers Australia Forums I am going to try some of the tests on the test machine just out of curiosity but for teh time being it might be worth looking at.