Possible PSU Failure?

The volts have to connect up to something for current to be present. Still could be a bad GPU as well. The only true way to find a bad PSU is replace it with a known good one.

Yep mate but I always equate it to the car battery that test up ok on volts yet doesn't have enough grunt to turn the engine and supply enough current to the ignition etc or the AA battery in a torch test ok and the thing fizzles within a second or so.

At the same time I am wondering if perhaps as it is fully modular some of the modular outlets are busy going bad??

The PWR_OK needs only to have the volts present, it powers nothing, rather lets the PSU "know" whether to power up. All within 1/3rd of a second or so.

Britton30 said:

The PWR_OK needs only to have the volts present, it powers nothing, rather lets the PSU "know" whether to power up. All within 1/3rd of a second or so.

Thats exactly what I meant mate it is only representative of volts not the available amps :)
Say you have a piece of equipment that requires 20 gallons of water (amps) per minute at 10psi (volts) and you have a pump (PSU) that can deliver the water at those rates.

Say the the pump becomes inefficient for whatever reason and can deliver the water at 10psi but not the 20 gallons per minute. So therefore you may get for example 10 gallons per minute at but still at 10psi.

In your pump example though the PSU would completely shut down.

Britton30 said:

In your pump example though the PSU would completely shut down.

Not necessarily because it is only testing for volts (pressure) not the amps (flow) it can "see" the volts are correct so will let the timer chip fire the machine up but once the amps are not available as the gear starts to draw the amps it requires it soon (or later) reaches a level whereby it does not have enough current to run them and you start to get failures.
I mean this isn't something that necessarily takes place slowly or fast it can be any length of time depending on what is causing the PSU to drop the current.
The drop in amps would also involve dropping the volts (a downward spike just like you would get in a brown out) and therefore the Power_Good signal would drop out:) That follows for a high voltage spike remembering the Power_Good signal volts have to be between 2.4 and 6 volts for the machine to maintain correct running function. So in theory if there were to be a voltage spike upwards inside the PSU the P_G signal would follow suit and drop out if it became in excess of 6 volts.
I think it is a very clever piece of engineering personally because it has probably saved more motherboards that anything else.

Okay so I tested the POWER_GOOD signal today and it would constantly fluctuate between .9V and 1.2V. I don't know if it was user error or the actual power supply itself. I didn't really know what I was doing because this is obviously a learning experience for me, but I did test it multiple ways and the reading was still the same.

Honestly, I will probably just end up buying a new power supply. I am the type who likes to tinker and find the problem and fix it, but this has just been driving me insane and I have run out of patience. Also, my GPU is only a few months old so if that turns out to be the problem, it shouldn't be an issue because I believe it is still under warranty. Just pray it isn't the motherboard because I really am not in the mood to replace it.

Anyways, I just want to thank all of you for your patience and guidance with this long and drawn out process. You guys are the best!

Thanks Again,
Collin

Yeah that looks a little fishy to me. It should be from about 4.5V-5.7V, I think. Be sure to check specs on the PSU. I think ones with a single 12V rail are best.

Britton30 said:

Yeah that looks a little fishy to me. It should be from about 4.5V-5.7V, I think. Be sure to check specs on the PSU. I think ones with a single 12V rail are best.

Yep you're right mate the actual text I think mentions a minimum of 2.4v and a max of 6v outside of those means the PSU self test is not right and may produce voltages that would otherwise damage the motherboard. Hence the shut downs.:)

I am not real sure but the idea behind a dual +12v rail(s) is that one will keep the machine running until the problem is fixed but I stand to be corrected on that it is only as how I read it.

No the total amp output is divided between multiple 12V rails. Not good and a cheap construction.