USB Devices not seen in Windows 7

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  1. Posts : 6,458
    x64 (6.3.9600) Win8.1 Pro & soon dual boot x64 (6.1.7601) Win7_SP1 HomePrem
       #41

    Had a candellation, so I'm back for a while

    Pulling the battery is the surest way to reset CMOS. That, you said was done.

    Those little jumpers are tough to pull off sometimes and even more difficult to get on the tiny pins. I've missed a few times.

    POST beeps - there might not be any power on self test failures. Many times lights blink instead.

    Don't let me talk you out of anything.. I think out loud sometimes.
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  2. Posts : 56
    Windows 8
    Thread Starter
       #42

    Slartybart said:
    Had a candellation, so I'm back for a while

    Pulling the battery is the surest way to reset CMOS. That, you said was done.

    Those little jumpers are tough to pull off sometimes and even more difficult to get on the tiny pins. I've missed a few times.

    POST beeps - there might not be any power on self test failures. Many times lights blink instead.

    Don't let me talk you out of anything.. I think out loud sometimes.
    Don't worry, you not talking me out of it! The mobo manual says there are POST beaps (I listed them previously, from the manual). No beep is not good!

    They may be moving away from POST beep sounds due to ipads, tablets.etc. Therefore with no diagnostics, you will have to buy another device!!

    So far, all the PC's i've owned or worked with do have these code beeps.

    I know my father had trouble enough with the CMOS battery removal. His fingers are dry and he has trouble holding onto things. But he does have a pair of needle-nose pliers and a flashlight. I think he can do it! It's my last ditch effort to save me a trip to their place!
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  3. Posts : 6,458
    x64 (6.3.9600) Win8.1 Pro & soon dual boot x64 (6.1.7601) Win7_SP1 HomePrem
       #43

    pull the AC cord and press the power button to disipate any charge

    I had trouble with those slippery round edged batterie too, of course once I got one out, I realized that a plastic pen cap (pocket clip end) easily moves the battery from under the top edge and it almost pops out. This was after reading a few manulas, watching a few videos
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  4. Posts : 56
    Windows 8
    Thread Starter
       #44

    Slartybart said:
    pull the AC cord and press the power button to disipate any charge

    I had trouble with those slippery round edged batterie too, of course once I got one out, I realized that a plastic pen cap (pocket clip end) easily moves the battery from under the top edge and it almost pops out. This was after reading a few manulas, watching a few videos
    No, No, remember! I want it to be the mobo. I could also blame it on my dad too!! he he!
    No, not really.
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  5. Posts : 6,458
    x64 (6.3.9600) Win8.1 Pro & soon dual boot x64 (6.1.7601) Win7_SP1 HomePrem
       #45

    Funny!

    What you really want is to get rid of that tin foil case your machine is in. If it is the Mobo, you can switch the cases when you swap out the mobo - Dad will not be the wiser, but it's always harder to fool Mom.

    I'll wait and watch - good luck
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  6. Posts : 56
    Windows 8
    Thread Starter
       #46

    I may have reached a verdict.

    My dad and I went through a lengthy proceedure, as described on the YouTube video. Device by device...

    All USB devices and ethernet cable removed, restart, listen for beep codes
    Monitor removed........
    USB 3 card removed.......
    HDD removed........
    IDE CD/DVD Roms removed........
    Graphics card removed......
    RAM removed......

    What's left?

    Processor removed.........

    no beep codes

    nothing on the mobo
    The beep codes that reference the processor only happen when the system is running, so no beep codes would be present.

    This points to the mobo or the processor

    Prior to this, however, we did have one time when there was a mobo error code of "26" that referenced [Clock Gen] [Init Onboard Clock Generator and Sensor] - pointing to the mobo. This morning my brother was working with them and restarting, this time the monitor came on and there was a message stating that the ADM processor type could not be detected....bla bla bla. Thus seems to point to the processor.

    So, although I seem to have narrowed the fault down, I am still not 100% certain.....mobo or processor, both of which would run about $60 to replace. Perhaps I should buy both the processor and mobo, try the new processor with the old mobo and devices....if it works, great. one way or another I would hope to have one item unopened for a return/refund.

    Wish I knew for sure!
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  7. Posts : 1,449
    Windows 7 ultimate 64-bit
       #47

    With all that I've read so far I too would say the
    Motherboard is a possible suspect as well. Especially if
    You clear the CMOS by removing all power both ac and
    CMOS battery and letting it sit for 20 mins to half
    Hour and you still aren't able to get it to
    Properly detect USB devices.
    Last edited by matts6887; 11 Jan 2014 at 20:34. Reason: Adding info
      My Computer


  8. Posts : 6,458
    x64 (6.3.9600) Win8.1 Pro & soon dual boot x64 (6.1.7601) Win7_SP1 HomePrem
       #48

    Lots of it here: https://www.google.com/search?q=%5BC...extMenu&ie=&oe=

    Answers all over the place. Some describe the same monitor issue. Not definitive though.
    Most of the few I read point to the Mobo,
    a good number point to grounding,
    Some say the CPU or graphics card,
    one or two make it the power supply

    I didn't delve too deep or pay attetnion to mobo mfgr, skimmed more than read.

    But, based on what I did read, I'd focus on the mobo.

    I just don't know
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  9. Posts : 21,004
    Desk1 7 Home Prem / Desk2 10 Pro / Main lap Asus ROG 10 Pro 2 laptop Toshiba 7 Pro Asus P2520 7 & 10
       #49

    Have not got time just now to read entire thread but what exactly is the mobo?? Speccy should tell you Speccy - Download

    and this may be a worth a try PSU- Jump Start

    for a reference
    PowerSupply 101: A Reference Of Specifications - Power Supplies asyou will see there is a +/- 5% variance that can make all the difference so11.4v is way too low and 12.6v way too high.

    Plus remember correct volts do not necessarily mean correct current (amps - inturn watts)




    Oh and use a digital multimeter not an analogue as they inject volts into devices for testing.
      My Computer


  10. Posts : 56
    Windows 8
    Thread Starter
       #50

    I ordered some components. and will be driving to my parents place this coming weekend to sweep up the issues (USB ones included) and toss them out!!!

    Probable won't hear from me till that time-frame.

    Thanks for the assistance.... hopefully I will be able to definitively close this thread out by them.
      My Computer


 
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