Ok, thx for the input guys!
For now I just removed GPU, uninstalled its drivers and everything is working fine, so I'll leave it as it is till tomorrow, since I have to get some work done. Tomorrow morning I'll make a brand new clean. barebones install including all those tips here and go from there.
Is there a way to test that power supply in a meantime?
Ok, I got that new, clean install. Those 2 1st drivers, then all the Windows Updates and then Firefox. That's it. No errors to speak of so far, but I'm yet to plug in that GPU. And GPU problems started before that MoBo mess, so I don't have high hopes that it will solve everything.
Should i just go with newest drivers for GPU or rather go for some specific ones? Known for their stability, for example.
Not sure what to do about the PSU - would prefer to check if it is indeed the issue, before replacing it (due to both cost and all the ****ing cables). Are there some kind of tests or should I try to just get a certified PSU, plug it in a see how it goes?
Run the system for a day or so and test stability, then add the graphics card. Boot into BIOS and check your voltages on the 3.3V, 5V and 12V and report back with the voltages.
Personally I wouldn't use that power supply period. Corsair or Seasonic is my choices.
Keep in mind a power supply can be erratic. Work great one time and then not work properly the next time. That is why you pick known quality brand names.
A power supply can go bad or erratic and nothing in the computer works properly.
Or a power supply can go bad and destroy the complete computer. Every thing in the computer a wire hooks to.
In the last year or so I use Nvidia drivers that come from Windows 7 updates and they work just fine on my computers.
You can always update the drivers from the manufacturer at a later date when you have your system working properly.
Getting drivers from Windows 7 Updates have their plus and minus.
The minus is they will be a little older than the manufacturer drivers.
The plus is drivers have been checked to work with the video card by the manufacturer and Microsoft verifies that plus Microsoft verifies it works well with Windows 7.
Damn, I'm on a bit of a tight budget atm and while I'll definitely replace it outright if it shows a sign of being unstable, I'd rather wait, in case my issues atm are are solely caused by GPU. Buying both quality PSU and GPU atm would hurt my wallet significantly. First things first. I googled that PSU and it was apparently a decently popular mid-tier PSU around here at the time. Not a great one, but not a timebomb-tier either.
That being said, are there specific models you guys would suggest? And assuming I may need to replace my GPU, upgreading it a bit - would 500W be enough or should I aim higher?
After all I can order one online and if it happens to not help I'd have 2 weeks for returning it.
For now I'll just leave system till tomorrow and keep HWMonitor open all day, since it records Min and Max Voltage encountered, so I guess it could help in noticing anything funny, right?
I always recommend Corsair PSUs as they're all I use, but Seasonic (both previously mentioned by Jack) are solid PSUs too. The GPU may not be the problem if the power supply wasn't man enough, it could have been that it was just being blamed when an unstable power supply was the real problem.
Yeah, yeah, I'm totally sold on whole Corsair thing, but will for example VS 550W Corsair be decent enough or you had something like gold certified RM in mind?
Your video card requires this
450 WMinimum System Power Requirement
A Corsair 550W gold should work just fine.
Do a little shopping. Sometime you will find a higher wattage Corsair for less money. Just because they are on sale. You can't have a power supply with to many watts.
Ok, I guess I'll order one tomorrow.
I still watched voltages in BIOS for ~15 minutes:
CPU Voltage: 1.088V (jumps to 1.080 occasionally)
3.3V: 3.312V (jumps to 3.296 every several seconds)
5V: 4.480V (hasn't changed once)
12V: 12.288V (hasn't changed once)
On the other hand SpeedFan 4.51 shows +12V at either 6.71V or 6.76V. Either one value or another for ~7 hours with 6.76V being more or less constant and occasional changes to 6.71V only when I'm actually using the PC.
And I have a HWMonitor screenshot with 7-ish hours of data. Let me know if there is anything interesting here:
Last edited by Emnel; 31 Mar 2015 at 03:41.
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