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Windows 7: APC Back-UPS Pro 1000 vs. 'regular' APC UPS vs. Cost?

02 Jan 2018   #11
Megahertz07

Windows 7 HP 64
 
 

Quote   Quote: Originally Posted by markg2 View Post
Btw, one of our machines is not connected to the UPS with the (time of purchase) supplied data cord for Parachute to operate. Anyone know where to get one or two w/o paying a king's ransom?
Didn't understand what you want.
Does the UPS has a data exit (USB or LAN)?
What is Parachute?


My System SpecsSystem Spec
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02 Jan 2018   #12
markg2

Windows 7
 
 

Any APC UPS comes with a USB data cable: computer to UPS. You download APC's software Parachute. The primary function of the software is to setup your parameters for an automatic, orderly shutdown of the machine if you're not home and the battery is soon to expire.
My System SpecsSystem Spec
02 Jan 2018   #13
Megahertz07

Windows 7 HP 64
 
 

So Parachute is the shut down software.
Still didn't understand what you want. A USB data cable and software to use the existing UPS or you want to replace them?
My System SpecsSystem Spec
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02 Jan 2018   #14
markg2

Windows 7
 
 

Only 1 of our UPS' is data connected to its APC UPS. I hadn't bothered to connect the other 2 and lost the computer to APC proprietary USB data cable that connects the computer to the UPS that allows Parachute to talk to the UPS and me to see the status of the UPS. I could contact APC and buy 2 cables from them except that route is usually way > $ than 'other' routes.
My System SpecsSystem Spec
02 Jan 2018   #15
Megahertz07

Windows 7 HP 64
 
 

If all you need is a USB cable you can buy it in many places. The standard connector to the computer is the flat connector. Is the connector on the UPS the square or the flat?
https://www.amazon.com/usb-cable-Dep...=5972334230601
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-...ords=usb+cable

Don't buy long cables.


Attached Images
APC Back-UPS Pro 1000 vs. 'regular' APC UPS vs. Cost?-usb.svg.png 
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02 Jan 2018   #16
TechnoMage2016

Windows 7 Ultimate, SP1, x86
 
 

Some clarification:

The UPS's sold and operated here in the USA are not the same ones sold in foreign countries, so the answers given here by members from outside the US, can be very confusing.

I am an old APC Service Tech, since I worked on the APC UPS's here in a local Computer repair shop.
But that was some years ago and much improvement in the UPS's has been done since then. They have been greatly improved, in performance and have also come down in price. My first UPS, back in the early 90's, was only rated at 120va and cost me $149.95. And it would only run a desktop PC and CRT monitor for a few minutes, barely time enough to do a proper shutdown.

There are two distinct classes of UPS's, being the ones we buy at a local store for home use and those commercial UPS's that are usually sold directly by APC at a greatly increased cost.

So for the sake of this forum, and mostly HOME users, let us only discuss the US Models and generally under 1000 VA. It's just the nature of consumer electronics, that one day they will fail, because they are for the most part built out of 'Hobby Grade' components.

Within the Consumer Grade UPS's there are two distinct types, those with a software shutdown feature which requires the software to run on the PC, and those without that feature. The cable that joins the UPS to the PC is usually a standard USB Printer Cable, available in many stores. The software can usually be downloaded from the manufacturer's website.

All consumer Grade UPS's are of the Square Wave output type, or NON Sinusoidal wave. That type of power is readily accepted by any electronic equipment that uses a modern Non-Analog power supply.
Some of the devices that I power with my own UPS's (all APC Brand) include my PC, monitor, printer, speakers, Digital LED TV, Cable Box, Modem, Router, and my Magic Jack VOIP device.

I also have a 2000 Watt Inverter that puts out a 120vac square wave, from a 12 volt battery. It will run all of my kitchen appliances, but it does make my toaster HUMMMMM!
It will NOT,however, run my refrigerator, because it has a Capacitor Start motor and that doesn't like a square wave. But it does run just fine with the output of my home Generator.

I once tried a Cyber Power UPS, but it gave false battery status reports and would not accept an exterior battery, like an APC will. So today it only backs up my telephone answering machine and one digital clock. When it finally dies, it will go out in the trash, like any other POC. Buying a Cyber Power UPS was a mistake that I will not repeat.

Buying more UPS than you need is just throwing money down a rat hole. My Main PC (desktop system) is connected to an APC Back UPS that I got at Walmart for $39.95. I think it was rated at 350va. The little Jell-Cell battery that comes with the UPS will only keep the UPS running for a few minutes, so, I removed the little OEM battery and replaced it with a 12vdc tractor battery w/250 CCA. I've only tested it once since doing the battery transplant, but during that live test, everything ran for three hours before the UPS ever even started to BEEP. After restoring line power, the UPS had the battery charged up to full power in about 12 hours.
I stopped the test before the UPS ever had the chance to shut down.
Here's that setup: Sometimes, this forum will not show my pictures.




In this pic, you can also see the Panamax Surge Protector that's plugged into the wall outlet.

I have two other APC UPS's, a 500va and a 600va. The bigest one provides back up power to my Cable box, LED 32" TV and a set of speakers, and even a LED Table Lamp. It uses two car batteries for its power source and can back up my TV for up to 8 hours.

So during a power failure, I have my PC, Cable TV and even Light, while my neighbors are in the dark.

If it appears that a power failure is going to be prolonged, like it was during Hurricane Irma (five days) I'll separate my home from the power line and fire up my Predator Generator, which can power up most of my home and well.

I was joking once, with an APC Engineer, and I commented, "I'd like an APC UPS that could run my whole house", and he responded "We have those!". I know they do, but I sure can't afford one!
I could probably buy a nice car for the price of a Whole House UPS, with both 120vac and 220vac outputs in full Sine Wave output.

My home generator might not put out a really CLEAN sine-wave, but it IS 60 cycle, 120vac/220vac, and will run my well pump and my refrigerator, that both have Capacitor-Start motors.

There is just NO good replacement for good backup power.

I hope you all have a very great 2018,

Cheers Mates!
TechnoMage
My System SpecsSystem Spec
03 Jan 2018   #17
markg2

Windows 7
 
 

I hesitated even attempting to consider buying a cable that 'looked' like the one I have (I'm talking about the device attachment end not the computer's USB port end). When I've done that previously with other electronics I've gotten burned--small variations.

If you're saying that USB cables that have squarish ends (older HP cables) are all the same size then no problem?

Mark
My System SpecsSystem Spec
03 Jan 2018   #18
TechnoMage2016

Windows 7 Ultimate, SP1, x86
 
 

Mark, et al,

I don't understand the confusion. On every UPS I have, both APC and my one Cyber Power, the logic cable that goes from the UPS to the USB Port on the PC, is a standard USB Printer Cable.
There should be no ambiguity or confusion there.

Click on this link, to see exactly what I'm talking about.
Amazon.com: Belkin Hi-Speed USB A/B Cable, USB Type-A and USB Type-B (10 Feet): Electronics

Now, are we finally all on the same page?

My System SpecsSystem Spec
03 Jan 2018   #19
markg2

Windows 7
 
 

Almost.

Yes, for the required loose cable, and that's good information for later.

The UPS' are downstairs in the office, I've been staying upstairs tending a repaired shoulder so I hadn't crawled under the desk to verify what I had remembered.

I just did that. I didn't remember correctly. The data cable for the Back UPS 550 (the model 1000 is for another use) under my desk is hard wired from the device with a USB connector at the machine end. The cable is ~1/4 the diameter of a 'normal' Windows peripheral device USB data line.

And now I remember why I never installed Parachute. (remarkably) The APC data cable doesn't reach from the APC on the floor to the laptop on the desk. And given the thinness of the cable, if there is a way to add an extension, the extension cable would never match this super slim gauge.

I've had it. No Parachute--no problem.

Thanks for bearing with this--

Mark
My System SpecsSystem Spec
04 Jan 2018   #20
TechnoMage2016

Windows 7 Ultimate, SP1, x86
 
 

Boy, they really went cheap on that one, Eh?
Replace that mickey mouse cable with a good quality USB Printer Cable of the required length.

Or, do just what you're doing.....get along nicely without the Parachute at all. That's what I do.
Actually, the little Back UPS 350 that I'm using does not even have the Parachute cable socket on it.
Only the more Top End UPS's have that option. In years past, I've tried the Parachute but didn't really like it.

I replaced the little wimpy Gell Cell in the UPS with an outboarded Tractor Battery, which will keep the little UPS running for several hours, so I really don't need a Parachute.



Sometimes, when I post a picture to this forum, is shows up, and sometimes it doesn't.

I just pull the battery wires out of the UPS and extend them to a Lead/Acid battery with about 250CCA capacity. I ran a test on the above setup as soon as I had it wired (battery was NOT at full charge) and the test ran for three hours, before the UPS started beeping to signal that the battery was running down.
When at full charge, that battery should keep the UPS running for at least four hours. Not bad for a $39 UPS and a $29 battery (at Walmart).

Cheers Mates!
TechnoMage
My System SpecsSystem Spec
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 APC Back-UPS Pro 1000 vs. 'regular' APC UPS vs. Cost?




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