Replacement for Old Linksys wrt54g

F22 Simpilot said:

Depends on what protocol you're using. 802.11 G wil hit a theoretical limit of 54 MbPS. N can go higher and so can AC.

Your SVCHOST issue more than likely won't get resolved with an update. I don't even use updates and don't have that issue. I know that issue was notorious in XP though.

I imagine the laptop is a very old protocol as it runs a 32 bit AMD Sempron CPU which might make it 12-13 years old. I was thinking of using the router I've yet to buy as to do a cable I'll have to get the bulk cable out of storage, find the tools/supplies to make a cable, and relearn how as it's been so long since I've made one, I've forgotten how. But then, I don't even know if the WiFi works on the laptop...

On the svchost problem, I searched the Forum and found a thread on how to identify the culprit, and it is:

wuauserv - Windows Update

Now I have to read-up on how to fix it.

I found how to identify the offending svchost in Post #2 by UsernameIssues of this thread:

svchost.exe (netsvcs) consuming 25% of a quad core laptop - Windows 7 Help Forums
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Success! I went from 68Mbps to 108Mbps. That’s roughly a 60% download speed improvement. Ping and upload speeds are the same.

I’ve been having a lot of little projects lately that turned into proverbial nightmares with product/company and return issues. So I went to Best Buy and see what they had, figuring if I did get a defective product, the return wouldn’t involve an RMA and shipping and all that hassle of buying online.

I was surprised that being in basically a rural area, they had a huge selection of routers. Going down the line, one caught my eye as being a new version of my old Linksys: a WRT3200ACM.

So I picked it up and, so far, am pleased. Now to eat a lot of beans, rice, and Top Ramen for 6 months to pay for it…LOL. I initially freaked out when I opened the PDF manual and it was 877 pages! Thankfully it was only 25 page in English; the rest of it was in other languages.

Setup was pretty painless as the hardest part was thinking of good passwords. I still have to learn Wi-Fi setup, security, and procedure, though, as all I did was turn off the ‘guest’ account. And I still have no idea on how to use it (not having any Wi-Fi devices).

Thanks Everyone for your time and energy !!!

(I’m still open to any and all tips and suggestions on using Wi-Fi as I may hook up the computer out in the shed.)

Glad to hear the speed issue is resolved.

TDKMate said:

I still have to learn Wi-Fi setup, security, and procedure, though, as all I did was turn off the ‘guest’ account. And I still have no idea on how to use it (not having any Wi-Fi devices).
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(I’m still open to any and all tips and suggestions on using Wi-Fi as I may hook up the computer out in the shed.)

If you have no wifi devices, turn wifi off altogether. (Page 18 of your user guide)

Also disable WPS ("Wifi Protected Setup" - page 18). This is a low-security back door into your wifi network.

If you can find a UPnP ("Universal Plug-and-Play") option, turn it off. This will make it harder for programs on your computer or hackers on the internet to change your router settings without you knowing. I don't know if you have this setting, but if so it might be under the "Connectivity" page ("Internet Settings" or "Advanced Routing" tab) or perhaps the "Security" page ("Apps and Gaming" tab).

Guest wifi is handy if you have overnight visitors--but only turn it on temporarily when you have guests. Leave it off the rest of the time. It allows your guests to use your internet connection for their phones/laptops without giving them full network access to your own computer.

If you are going to hook up the computer in your shed, place your router as close to the shed as you can. For example, in the room of the house that is closest to the shed. If you can put it in the window rather than behind a wall, that is even better, so that the wall doesn't block the signal. If that puts the router close enough to the shed in order to give you a good signal in the shed, you're good to go.

If not, then you could try a few things:

• Powerline adapter -- if the electrical outlets in the shed are on the same house circuit as the one near your router, then you can get something called a "powerline adapter". It will use your electrical wiring to bring an Ethernet connection to your shed. You will have two modules - one plugs into an outlet in the shed, and the other plugs into an outlet near your router. You will run an Ethernet cable from the router to the powerline adapter near your router. You will then run an Ethernet cable from the powerline adapter in the shed to your computer. You may even be able to get a powerline adapter which will provide wifi in the shed.
• Wifi extender -- put this device where it will get a good signal from your router, and where it will broadcast a good signal into your shed.

Here are a powerline adapter and some wifi extenders:
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/network...at161100050044

I would go with the wifi extender if it will do the job. However, if the wifi extender can't get enough of a signal at your shed, then I would go with the powerline adapter. Get the device at a local store near you, and you can probably return it for your money back if it doesn't do the job for you.

Two things to consider if you go with a wifi extender:

• Set your router on one channel, rather than on auto-scan. If you put it on auto-scan, it will change channels from time to time, and this may cause the wifi extender to lose the connection. (I have seen this happen.)
• If the wifi extender won't connect with the router, make sure that there is no space in the SSID (the wireless network name). Some devices won't connect to the router if there is a space in the SSID.

dg1261 said:

Glad to hear the speed issue is resolved.

If you have no wifi devices, turn wifi off altogether. (Page 18 of your user guide)

Also disable WPS ("Wifi Protected Setup" - page 18). This is a low-security back door into your wifi network.

If you can find a UPnP ("Universal Plug-and-Play") option, turn it off. This will make it harder for programs on your computer or hackers on the internet to change your router settings without you knowing. I don't know if you have this setting, but if so it might be under the "Connectivity" page ("Internet Settings" or "Advanced Routing" tab) or perhaps the "Security" page ("Apps and Gaming" tab).

Guest wifi is handy if you have overnight visitors--but only turn it on temporarily when you have guests. Leave it off the rest of the time. It allows your guests to use your internet connection for their phones/laptops without giving them full network access to your own computer.

Thanks dg1261, I’m glad it’s fixed, too. The ‘funny’ thing here is even email is a lot snapper (Outlook 07). I didn’t expect that.

I forgot that I have a relative’s laptop I’m ‘fixing’ (with help in another thread) and I’ve got it cleaned up and ready for Windows Update (it hadn’t been updated in years). After defragging it as mrjimphelps suggests, I tried to connect via Wi-Fi. It found the router’s main ‘channel’ and the Guest account. I tried the Guest account first.

But it didn’t ask for the Guest password, it just spun trying to connect and timed out. So I tried the router direct and it asked me for a specific number (sorry, I forgot what the laptop called it). I tried what I thought it wanted but the laptop say it’s the wrong number (I gave it the Router Pin).

And your right: UPnP is under Connectivity > Admin. I had it turned on, as well as Guest access, when I tried the laptop.

Any ideas?

mrjimphelps said:

If you are going to hook up the computer in your shed, place your router as close to the shed as you can. For example, in the room of the house that is closest to the shed. If you can put it in the window rather than behind a wall, that is even better, so that the wall doesn't block the signal. If that puts the router close enough to the shed in order to give you a good signal in the shed, you're good to go.
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Thanks for the tips, mrjimphelps. Lucky for me the router is in the room closest to the shed, but I can’t move it any closer to a window. The shed computer is two walls and about 25-30 feet away. The sales rep said it’s a good change the router will reach it. Sadly, the shed is not on the same circuit so it seems a Powerline adapter is out if the router doesn’t reach far enough. (The shed goes from the main power meter fuse panel direct to the circuit breaker panel in the shed.)

This is just something that would be nice to have, but with all the other projects and stuff going on, it’s a low priority item. (Years ago, the last time I updated it, I just ran a 50’ cable from the router out to the shed, so in a sense, I’m covered in a ‘must have’ situation.)

TDKMate said:

I forgot that I have a relative’s laptop I’m ‘fixing’ (with help in another thread) and I’ve got it cleaned up and ready for Windows Update (it hadn’t been updated in years). After defragging it as mrjimphelps suggests, I tried to connect via Wi-Fi. It found the router’s main ‘channel’ and the Guest account. I tried the Guest account first.

But it didn’t ask for the Guest password, it just spun trying to connect and timed out. So I tried the router direct and it asked me for a specific number (sorry, I forgot what the laptop called it). I tried what I thought it wanted but the laptop say it’s the wrong number (I gave it the Router Pin).

When you configure the router's wifi setup, you'll specify a SSID (aka, "network name"), authentication or "security mode", and the password. If you turn on the guest network, you'll also configure a different SSID/password combination for the guest wifi.

You need to make sure the laptop supports, and is trying to use, the same security mode you set the router's wifi to. Typically, that will often be WPA2/AES, but if it's a really old laptop it might only support WPA/TKIP. If that's the case, your router's setup has a drop-down box for downgrading to older protocols.

I'm assuming you're trying to connect to the correct network name when you say the laptop found the router's main channel. To connect the laptop, use the same password you setup in the router's wifi configuration for that network name. Note this is not the same as the router's admin password (for getting into the router and changing settings). Remember the password is case-sensitive.

Note that WPS ("Wifi Protected Setup") is intended to be an easier way to connect. If WPS is turned on, you press the WPS button on the router (see page 5 of your user manual), tell the laptop to automatically connect, and they're supposed to automatically find each other. When it works, it's easy and won't ask you for a password, but as I mentioned earlier, it's not a very secure method so I recommend leaving WPS disabled.

And here is why I said in my first post that you should use a third-party firmware or keep your router's firmware updated. FBI warns Russians hacked hundreds of thousands of routers

Hi All. I forgot this was the holiday weekend and we’re having out of state company over for another day or two so I’ll have to wait to ‘play’ with this some more…

dg1261 said:

When you configure the router's wifi setup, you'll specify a SSID (aka, "network name"), authentication or "security mode", and the password. If you turn on the guest network, you'll also configure a different SSID/password combination for the guest wifi.

Yes, the Guest network has a different name and password, but the laptop never asked for it. (So, that a SSID, eh? LOL)

You need to make sure the laptop supports, and is trying to use, the same security mode you set the router's wifi to. Typically, that will often be WPA2/AES, but if it's a really old laptop it might only support WPA/TKIP. If that's the case, your router's setup has a drop-down box for downgrading to older protocols.

I have no idea how to check what the laptop supports… Yes, it’s really old so I’ll assume that.

I'm assuming you're trying to connect to the correct network name when you say the laptop found the router's main channel. To connect the laptop, use the same password you setup in the router's wifi configuration for that network name. Note this is not the same as the router's admin password (for getting into the router and changing settings). Remember the password is case-sensitive.

Sorry I don’t know/use the correct terminology. But yes, that’s what I meant.

Note that WPS ("Wifi Protected Setup") is intended to be an easier way to connect. If WPS is turned on, you press the WPS button on the router (see page 5 of your user manual), tell the laptop to automatically connect, and they're supposed to automatically find each other. When it works, it's easy and won't ask you for a password, but as I mentioned earlier, it's not a very secure method so I recommend leaving WPS disabled.

Sounds like, just for this, that’s the way to go. First, if it works, I can run updates on the laptop. But, if / when the laptop connects, I can take it out to the shed and see if I get reception out there.
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