Overclocking help; your suggestions, please.

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  1. Posts : 1,496
    7 Ultimate x64
       #41

    Yeah, the paste will fill that easily. You won't be needing to add any extra for those scuff marks... but... :) be more gentle.
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  2. Posts : 359
    Windows 7 64-bit
    Thread Starter
       #42

    Fumz said:
    Yeah, the paste will fill that easily. You won't be needing to add any extra for those scuff marks... but... :) be more gentle.
    OK. Paste on!
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  3. Posts : 359
    Windows 7 64-bit
    Thread Starter
       #43

    I used the HS paste this time instead of Arctic Cool. I put a small amount of paste on the HS (about 1/2 of that used last time) & used the scoff marks on the HS as a guide where to wipe the paste with a latex glove. I got it as smooth & thin as I could.

    For whatever reason the HS installed easier this time. There is one pin I could of swore was pressed in 100%. But a comparison to the other 3 pins indicated it needed to go down more. It did put up a fight but in the end it "clicked" into place. This may have the case before. I did check with the wiggle test & it seemed OK.

    As of now its been booted for 20 minutes. The idle temps are 35-38C; or about the same as before. While rendering the same video test as before it peaked @ 61C. This is an improvement but I'm not OCed at the moment. I'm sure it will rise close to 70C if I OC. I've included 2 pics; one before & one today. Don't let the 28C fool anyone as that's right after booting. They are nearly identical.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Overclocking help; your suggestions, please.-temps-after-rt-3.3.jpg   Overclocking help; your suggestions, please.-after-paste-change.jpg  
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  4. Posts : 1,496
    7 Ultimate x64
       #44

    Nearly identical?

    Look again. The after picture shows lows of 28C; before lows are 37-40C. A 10C drop is significant... seriously, you did good.

    That load temps are still in the 60's is a function of the heatsink. I would not be surprised if you could now overclock a bit and remain in the 60's. Of course, a more efficient heatsink is always better, but it looks to me like you're headed in the right direction.
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  5. Posts : 359
    Windows 7 64-bit
    Thread Starter
       #45

    Fumz said:
    Nearly identical?

    Look again. The after picture shows lows of 28C; before lows are 37-40C. A 10C drop is significant... seriously, you did good.

    That load temps are still in the 60's is a function of the heatsink. I would not be surprised if you could now overclock a bit and remain in the 60's. Of course, a more efficient heatsink is always better, but it looks to me like you're headed in the right direction.
    28C is from a cold start that gradually increases to 35-38C (as it is now) while idle 20-30 minutes after booting & remains there. This is exactly as it was before. Nothing has changed.

    As ignatzatsonic pointed out, I need to decide if I want a quiet PC or to OC which would require higher fan speeds to keep thing cool. I don't know if one can have their cake & eat it too. I guess I'm willing to have a little more noise to gain faster render times.
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  6. Posts : 359
    Windows 7 64-bit
    Thread Starter
       #46

    I have concerns about my new 120mm Cooler Master rear fan. It's a 4-pin that fits into PWR_FAN2 on the MB. My concern was that it's fan speed seemed too slow & maybe wasn't blowing out enough hot air (I thought these fan types would be regulated by the MB). But, perhaps there's a BIOS setting that turns this on & I have overlooked it.

    At any rate, I've posted a new core temp with the old Antec case fan, a 3 speed set to HI that is plugged into a Molex connector, not the MB. It maxed out 6C less & the idle speed is 30-33C after warm-up. 28C is right after boot. Compare this pic to "After changing paste" that had the Cooler Mater fan.

    If nothing else, this indicates more ventilation helps. :)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Overclocking help; your suggestions, please.-after-pc-old-fan.jpg   Overclocking help; your suggestions, please.-after-paste-change.jpg  
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  7. Posts : 6,075
    Windows 7 Professional 64 bit
       #47

    One other thing to consider is the thermal paste curing.

    Iirc it takes a fair few heat ups and cool downs to work at its best.

    On my new build I noticed the temps drop by around 8 degrees after a week of use.
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  8. Posts : 1,496
    7 Ultimate x64
       #48

    GARoss said:
    This is exactly as it was before. Nothing has changed.

    As ignatzatsonic pointed out, I need to decide if I want a quiet PC or to OC which would require higher fan speeds to keep thing cool. I don't know if one can have their cake & eat it too. I guess I'm willing to have a little more noise to gain faster render times.
    Ahh, that's too bad. Thought we were onto something?

    You don't need to choose between loud and cool or quiet and hot. Fan speed is important for quiet, true, but what's more important is how much air does that fan push. Different blades on the same rpm fan will push different amounts of air. What fan do you have now?

    I'm not sure I'd be focused only on the fan. Here we have 2 guys with the same heatsink who report, at stock, the same high temps. There's only so much a fan can do to bring that down.

    Just a side note to illustrate a really efficient heatsink: I recently worked with Indigo Xtreme. Part of the process is "reflow". You're supposed to detach the fan from the heatsink, boot up and stress all the cores. This happens ~ 80-90C. I could never get that stuff to work because I could never get my cpu that hot... even after 15 minutes of dual instances of Orthos with the fan across the room.

    Your case is fairly small... so yes, improve everything including case flow, just don't stop before exploring a better heatsink.
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  9. Posts : 359
    Windows 7 64-bit
    Thread Starter
       #49

    paulpicks21 said:
    One other thing to consider is the thermal paste curing.

    Iirc it takes a fair few heat ups and cool downs to work at its best.

    On my new build I noticed the temps drop by around 8 degrees after a week of use.
    Thanks, Paul. Yes, the paste is new, but, the only difference in the pics (see my last post above) is the rear case fan has been changed back to the original Antec case fan (core temp pic on left in above post). The newer CM fan (core temp pic on right in above post) is plugged into PWR_FAN2 & it's speed is very slow & not increasing with higher case temps. I have BIOS set to Defaults (shown in pics). It would seem that rear case fan plugged into PWR_FAN2 would be controlled by the MB as temps increase. The original Antec case fan is plugged into a Molex connector & not regulated other than its 3 speed adjustment.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Overclocking help; your suggestions, please.-capture.jpg   Overclocking help; your suggestions, please.-capture-2.jpg  
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  10. Posts : 1,496
    7 Ultimate x64
       #50

    Typically case fans don't spin too fast... they don't really need to. Their job isn't to reduce heat as much as it is to maintain a steady flow of air.... which accomplishes the same thing I know, but still, there's a subtle difference.

    Cleaning up your wiring can often have the same effect as increasing case fan speed; after all, it's more difficult for air to move through a bee-hive than it is through empty space. How's your wiring?

    How fast your fans spin really is up to the fan. Is yours a variable? If it's not, then it really doesn't matter where you plug them in, if they're not designed to spin at different rpms, then they're not going to.

    I know we... err, I , am sitting here spending your money, but there's no substitute for good hardware. Mediocre works, but... well... I'm sure like me you want your stuff to be running as well as it can?

    There are tons of guys who make fans; I'm tossing this link up only because it's what I use and have bookmarked, but check the rpms and db levels to see if maybe there's a better fan than the one you've got? Scythe Fan Spec Comparison Chart
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