Post Your Overclock!

You can use IBT for quick tests. Keep in mind however, it does run a bit hotter than a P95 test will so keep an eye on temps.

I agree (and my personal pref as well) to be at 60-65C under Prime. With that target in mind, IBT will likely be around 70.


I wouldn't substitute it for a good 10-12 hr Prime run for stability, but ..
Its a excellent tool for finding a dirty OC fast.

For example, run it at Very High for 2-3 passes takes about 5 minutes.
If it fails there, theres no point even going under Prime for the long test.
This is good for when your looking for lower vcores etc.

You may be able to pass 2-3 runs with it, and still fail Prime in 8hrs, but the point is it will let you know quickly if your in the ballpark, or no where close to stability.
I do not particularly like it for long tests though.

smarteyeball said:

vierasniper said:

i'd need a wee bit more juice to be stable at 4.5 huh?

Possibly. There are other factors that could also be in play, like RAM. Have you set the X.M.P profile?

instead of slapping a generic 120mm on my 212, would preplacing both with the sought after noctua would i see improvement? or are they just for silence?

They do push a fair of air, and yes you would see an improvement, but it's the noise level that the noctuas are re-known for.

There are other fans that will push more air, but noise can become a factor.

at 4.4 with 1.28v i bsod after a little less than an hour on p95. any other things i can tweak? the only things i have changed are the multiplier and manual voltage, anything regarding the BCLK? it was 1.3 i think when i had the auto oc. it wen back to 1.00 when i returned to manual. and i haven't set a xmp profile. like i said i only moved the multi and the voltage.

and thanks about the tip about burn test wishmaster.

You could simply have a chip thats wants more juice.

But, Id leave the BLCK at 100.
Once you start messing with that on the P67/z68 boards, it just seems to open a whole new can of worms (in a bad way)


There is a PLL Override switch, that is supposed to help stability with higher multis.

It may or may not be needed for your OC.
Some report needing it from x40 and up, and others not until 4.6-4.8 ish

Some boards also have issues with Sleep/Hibernate if this On.
I do not know about your board in particular, so not sure whether to suggest leaving it On or turning it Off.

I know my board really doesnt seem to like it much, and does better if its disabled. So going by my own experiences, Id disable that sucker. But, your board may be different.

oh man a hungry chip? i cant have nice things. im waiting from a little more input from eyeball he does have basically the same board as me. maybe thats why i was crashing, with auto oc it changed the BCLK. im going full manual on the next runs until i get what im after.

My current settings for 4.6ghz

AI Tweaker>
Ai Overclock Tuner - [X.M.P]
BCLK/PCIE Frequency [100.0]
Internal PLL Overvoltage [Disabled]
EPU Power Saving Mode [Disabled]

AI Tweaker>CPU Power Management
CPU Ratio [46]
Enhanced Intel Speedstep [Enabled]
Turbo Mode Parameters all Auto except:
Additional Turbo Voltage [0.004]

AI Tweaker>Digi+ VRM
Load Line Calibration [Regular]
VRM Frequency [Auto]
Phase Control [Extreme]
Duty Control [T.Probe]
CPU Current Capability [100%]

CPU Voltage [Offset mode]
Offset Mode Sign [-]
CPU Offset voltage [0.035] *1
DRAM Voltage [1.65000] *2 Yours should be 1.5000
VCCSA Voltage [Auto]
VCCIO Voltage [1.15000] *3 Yours should be set to [Auto or 1.1000] See below
CPU PLL Voltage [1.71250]
The rest including CPU Spread Spectrum are [Auto]


Just remember that one size does not fit all. These settings are fine with my system, but may not suit yours. But hopefully it will give you a starting point.



********************************************************************************************


*1

I use a CPU voltage negative offset to maintain all the Speedstep/power saving features instead of setting a manual 'fixed' vcore. The downside to a manual setting is that the vcore is a constant voltage, so even if the clock speeds change, the voltage doesn't; which negates having Speedstep/EIST etc enabled in the first place.

When using the offset mode, the 'starting point' is based on the CPU's VID, or Voltage Identifier (the VID is the individual voltage applied to each chip the factory sets ie It's stock voltage). When using the '-' offset, it subtracts from the 'full voltage' that the system needs under full load.

ie: My max load vcore is 1.272v, but using -0.035 it can fluctuate from 1.248 up to 1.272v under full load. So depending on load, it doesn't have to run at 1.272v all the time. Offset can also affect the vcore as it adjusts through the various powerstates, from idle to full load, so if set too low it can 'trip up' between states due to insufficient vcore.

Using a manual setting is good for determining what vcore is needed for any given clock speed. Once that's established, (using IBT) you can always change it to offset mode later.


*2

My Modules are rated for 1.65v to achieve the 2133mhz speed. Depending on which G.Skill modules you have (there are a lot of different Ripjaw models ) the DRAM voltage can range between 1.5v up to 1.65v - The X.M.P profile will set this for you (as well as the RAM timings)

This important Because▼

*3

There is a .5v variance rule between DRAM voltage and VCCIO. If your DRAM voltage is outside ouf this .5v variance, it can damage the IMC (Integrated Memory Controller) on the CPU. To calculate this, you simply subtract .5v from the DRAM voltage.

So if your DRAM volts are 1.5000v, the VCCIO should be a minimum of 1.0000. The VCCIO Auto on these boards are 1.1000, so that's a .4v variance; well within the specs.

Since my modules are 1.65v, my VCCIO has to be 1.1500 If left on Auto, or using the default 1.1000 my variance would be .55v, which is out of spec and potentially damaging. Up to 1.2000 is the 'max safe' 24/7 recommendation.


Some things you could also try:

• Leave the BCLK at 100

• Internal PLL Overvoltage [Enabled] (basically this allows for extra voltage when required)

• Load Line Calibration [Medium 25% or High 50% - shouldn't need any higher for 4.5]

• LLC affects vdroop, or the voltage drop when the CPU is under load. (As shown by the difference between what you put in the BIOS and what it actually is as reported by CPU-Z) Basically it 'forces' a more constant voltage.

• Set the RAM to X.M.P

• CPU PLL Voltage [Auto] SB tends to like lower amounts for some reason though.

• Raise vcore a few bumps, do a quick test with IBT, adjust vcore. Don't bother with Prime95 until ready for a 'proper run'

• Cross fingers

Some chips just like voltage, so don't be too discouraged if you find you need more than others for the same clocks.




Rough volt/temp guidelines:

Max safe 24/7 vcore on air 1.38v-1.4v (temps permitting)
Max safe 24/7 VCCIO 1.2000
Try to keep the cores below 85c during IBT

Thanks for Guideline and the tips. This is really gonna come in handy, now i have a better overview of what i need to get a good OC. Ill play with the setting some more tomorrow after i update the bios. hope fully i get some stable without burning the chip too badly.

You wont burn the chip - it takes a fair bit effort (ie mega volts) to kill these things.

Good luck with it mate :)

sygnus21 said:

smarteyeball said:

I'm sure your friend would be delighted to see the amount of volts you're pumping through that thing... on air

Yeah.... Intel only recommends a voltage between 0.800 - 1.375. You're pushing 1.54volts! Wow...... - Intel® Core

You sure about those temps?


@ smarteye, yeah I'm happy with my system and you're right it has a lot left. Anyway If I had a better after market CPU cooler I'd push for the 4gig range but the cooler I have now isn't up to the task.

And to be honest I was very near getting a SB system myself but in the end couldn't justify replacing the i7-950 system.

temps were 45 °C with no load and 59 °C with 40% load and 64 °C with 100% load
Lol yes and in the bios volt core was marked Orange xd

But it worked and the clocks are back to stock speed now it was just a test ;p

So, how good is this with stock cooling? :)



And just a quick test to see if system crash....(but not :) )