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Windows 7: Temps problem (Again)

03 Sep 2013   #11
andrew129260

Windows 10 Pro
 
 

Thank you kbrady1979. Like I always say, learning more everyday

#8
I know you guys have posted a lot already, and I feel bad but would anyone mind answering the questions in post 8?
Thanks again, I know I am being a bother ha...


My System SpecsSystem Spec
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03 Sep 2013   #12
smarteyeball

 
 

Quote   Quote: Originally Posted by andrew129260 View Post
Do I need to pour water in? It says no maintenance but I don't understand how that can be.
No. They are known as 'closed loop' water coolers which basically means that they come with the coolant inside already. You simply install and use.

The no maintenance refers to the fact that you don't have to manually add coolant etc.

As for life span - years.

It has a back plate so you will need to remove the mobo to install it.
My System SpecsSystem Spec
03 Sep 2013   #13
kbrady1979

Windows 7 Professional 64bit SP1
 
 

Sorry, I totally missed that part. Several manufacturers make what people have called an All In One(AIO) water cooler, closed loop water cooling kit, or a sealed water cooler. If you are familiar with Newegg, go to Computer Hardware > PC Cooling > Water/Liquid Cooling. There, you will find the all in one units we are talking about. It is a really simple system to be honest: There is a Radiator which holds the cooling liquid; the hoses attached directly to the radiator that run to the water block/pump assembly. The water block is usually a bit of machined copper, bolted to an internal pump which is covered by a plastic housing. They can come with one or more fans that plug in to fan headers, and the pump assembly usually plugs up to the main CPU header on the motherboard. You DON'T take the unit apart for cleaning or flushing/refilling. Your best bet is to watch a youtube video on the mounting process because most instructions I've seen are worse than useless.

The basic idea is you install a backplate on the back of the motherboard. This is for stability and for the pump to have something to bolt into. It is usually a piece of square-ish plastic with threaded inserts in the corners. Once that is in place, and you have your thermal paste on a CLEAN CPU, you seat the pump/water block on the CPU and mount it using the supplied mounting hardware which usually consists of a retention ring and 4 screws. The 4 screws will thread into the backplate you installed previously. The radiator is simple to mount.........if you can mount a fan, you can mount a radiator. This is a very generic/generalized set of instructions for a run of the mill unit. There is a little more to it, but I hit the high points. Best bet is to find one you like, and find a video on youtube of it being installed.

You asked if you have to have the motherboard out of the case during installation. Technically, you don't have to if your case has a CPU cutout on the motherboard tray. It is easier if it's out of the case and if you take out the RAM and video card. If you have a buddy that can help, that's even better. It's much easier with another set of hands.

Here is a picture of my Intel water cooler inside my case to give you an idea of how it works and what it looks like.

Temps problem (Again)-2013-08-09_12-03-10_47.jpgTemps problem (Again)-2013-08-09_12-03-36_330.jpgTemps problem (Again)-case-airflow.jpg


My System SpecsSystem Spec
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03 Sep 2013   #14
Dude

Windows 10 Pro X64
 
 

Quote   Quote: Originally Posted by andrew129260 View Post
Thank you kbrady1979. Like I always say, learning more everyday

#8
I know you guys have posted a lot already, and I feel bad but would anyone mind answering the questions in post 8?
Thanks again, I know I am being a bother ha...

Andrew, they are maintenance free, you do not need to add water. It will last the lifetime of your computer as mentioned above.
My System SpecsSystem Spec
03 Sep 2013   #15
Boozad

W7 Pro x64 SP1 | W10 Pro IP x64 | W8.1 Pro x64 VM | Linux Mint VM
 
 

While closed water coolers are certainly hassle free and offer great cooling, a decent air cooler will suffice if you're not overclocking. I have a Fenrir Titan triple copper heatpipe on my 4670k (stock clocks) and it works like a dream. The Noctua NH-D14 is supposed to be a fantastic air cooler too. Any of the above will give you much better temperatures than an AMD stock cooler.
My System SpecsSystem Spec
03 Sep 2013   #16
madcratebuilder

Win8/8.1,Win7-U64, Vista U64, uncounted Linux distor's
 
 

Here's a answer from AMD about the max 8350 temps.
Quote:
The maximum temperature for the FX-8350 CPU is 61.1C at Tcase. This is different from Tjunction (which the BIOS and programs like HWMonitor will report), and can easily be referenced through [COLOR=blue !important][COLOR=blue ! important]AMD [COLOR=blue ! important]OverDrive[/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR], or closely referenced through programs like CoreTemp/RealTemp. HWMonitor and BIOS software will report the Tjunction temperature which can be as much as 10C different from the Tcase temperature.

If you have any other questions or concerns, please do not hesitate to reply to this e-mail directly and I will try to provide any additional information that you may require. Thank you for contacting AMD!

In order to update this service request, please respond, leaving the service request reference intact.

Best regards,

AMD Global Customer Care
I run a small OC (4.5ghz) on my 8350 with a Corsair H80i H2O cooling system. I can run P95 with all 8 cores at 100% along with Kombuster's GPU torture test and CPU reaches mid 50'sC and GPU reaches mid 70'sC. I can't think of any real world situation that would stress both CPU and GPU to a constant 100% other than intentional stress testing.
My System SpecsSystem Spec
03 Sep 2013   #17
andrew129260

Windows 10 Pro
 
 

Quote   Quote: Originally Posted by kbrady1979 View Post
....If the air inside your case, and the air coming out is just warm, you're OK more than likely. If you were inside the computer and you didn't find anything that was just flesh-melting hot, then I wouldn't worry about it. I would, however, look into a new CPU cooler.
Yeah, just warmish. Not even "warm warm"

Thanks for all the help everyone! I really appreciate it!

I think I am going to go with the Antec 620 no maintenance water cooler. I like no maintenance I heard it's really easy to install so I should be good. Newegg even has a video on how to do it. Thanks.

My case is this: Rosewill ARMOR-EVO Black Steel E-ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - Newegg.com

I noticed when removing my other side panel that there is a small square cutout where what seems to be the back of the motherboard where the cpu is. So I am guessing I actually do not need to remove the motherboard?
If so that is nice. (I really, really, really did not feel like doing all that.)

$50 seems cheap to me. Plus If i do decide to overclock in the future I would be able to better with this than another air cooler I am assuming. Plus, I would feel a lot better/safer and have my mind at ease with this I think. My only concern is I wonder if it somehow leaks and fries your system if the warranty would cover that. (As long as I installed it right of course.)

I probably will order it next week or after. Can't right now.

Anyways, sorry for the novel, Thanks for everything. I'll keep you guys posted when I order it and how my temps look after should you guys care.
My System SpecsSystem Spec
04 Sep 2013   #18
Solarstarshines

Windows 10 Home Premium 64bit sp1
 
 

Quote   Quote: Originally Posted by andrew129260 View Post
Quote   Quote: Originally Posted by kbrady1979 View Post
....If the air inside your case, and the air coming out is just warm, you're OK more than likely. If you were inside the computer and you didn't find anything that was just flesh-melting hot, then I wouldn't worry about it. I would, however, look into a new CPU cooler.
Yeah, just warmish. Not even "warm warm"

Thanks for all the help everyone! I really appreciate it!

I think I am going to go with the Antec 620 no maintenance water cooler. I like no maintenance I heard it's really easy to install so I should be good. Newegg even has a video on how to do it. Thanks.

My case is this: Rosewill ARMOR-EVO Black Steel E-ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - Newegg.com

I noticed when removing my other side panel that there is a small square cutout where what seems to be the back of the motherboard where the cpu is. So I am guessing I actually do not need to remove the motherboard?
If so that is nice. (I really, really, really did not feel like doing all that.)

$50 seems cheap to me. Plus If i do decide to overclock in the future I would be able to better with this than another air cooler I am assuming. Plus, I would feel a lot better/safer and have my mind at ease with this I think. My only concern is I wonder if it somehow leaks and fries your system if the warranty would cover that. (As long as I installed it right of course.)

I probably will order it next week or after. Can't right now.

Anyways, sorry for the novel, Thanks for everything. I'll keep you guys posted when I order it and how my temps look after should you guys care.
Sounds good ,hope it goes off without a hitch

I also run a Antec 620 on a 8350 system it has great temps I ran mine at 4,8ghz @ 1.488v-core and maxed out at 55c during IBT stress test so it should do a real good job

At stock speed you should be maxing at about 45 to 48c with load
My System SpecsSystem Spec
04 Sep 2013   #19
smarteyeball

 
 

Quote   Quote: Originally Posted by andrew129260 View Post

I noticed when removing my other side panel that there is a small square cutout where what seems to be the back of the motherboard where the cpu is. So I am guessing I actually do not need to remove the motherboard?
If so that is nice. (I really, really, really did not feel like doing all that.)

If you can clearly access all four holes to install the backplate and screws, then yes you can avoid removing the motherboard
My System SpecsSystem Spec
06 Sep 2013   #20
andrew129260

Windows 10 Pro
 
 

Looks like I am confused again. I went out and got a corsair h55 that my friend recommended, (great reviews online) and said he would help me install it. It was easy install, but glad my friend was there as this was my first time installing a water cooler.

Anyways, fired up my rig and my idle temps were 60F (15c) and on load at 100% was 115F (46c) which was amazing!
I did a test video encoding on the same file I was doing before. Boy what a difference!!
So I ran my system for about 20 minutes and all was well. I ran tomb raider (benchmark-got 60fps), encoding a video and running a virtual machine of windows 8 all at the same time. Cpu maxed out at 100% but no lag or anything at all.
I then shut it down and took him home.

***I came back, and turned on my rig. (room temps are same afaik, felt cooler not warmer as its night) and guess what?

My idle temps are now 70f (21c). Not a big deal right? Just went up 10 degrees. Anyways, I was browsing the web and decided I would now encode a video again, as it was strange to me it up 10 degrees. So I started the encoding a video (same file as before, to rule out anything) and guess what? My system reached 150F (65c) and I was like Woah! That's more then before! So anyways, I let it go for a little bit, seeing if it was a fluke, checking other monitor temp programs and they all said the same thing. Although HW monitor reported hotter by 5 degrees.

Anyways, what the heck happened? It was running ridiculously cool a second ago. I told my friend what happened and he assured me its normal. He said when he first installed his water cooler it was really cold at first and then got warmer. He said after a week the temps went cold again and stayed there. He mentioned that the radiator and all that priming and stuff sometimes takes a bit. So yeah, he said not to worry. He also said if it happens after a week I should wipe the preapplied thermal paste off and use my artic silver 5 that I have. (its 2 years old though, idk if they expire)
So yeah, Is this normal?

Thanks again for any help.....
My System SpecsSystem Spec
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 Temps problem (Again)




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