Thermal Paste Expired?

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  1. Posts : 78
    Windows 7 Professional
       #1

    Thermal Paste Expired?


    So I put together the PC about a year and a half ago.
    I recently got into overclocking, and wanted to re-apply thermal paste on the cpu to try and see if it would help temperatures.
    I think I have a decent Haswell 4670k chip for overclocking, as earlier I was able to get a stable 4.7ghz overclock with a max temp of 75-80 in stress testing (never over 60 in gaming), and at a core voltage of 1.262v. (air cooled, push-pull hyper 212 evo, arctic mx-2)
    Then a few weeks ago I went and put some fresh thermal paste on and now it's no longer stable at that clock.
    And it's hotter than i've ever seen it. A 4.4ghz overclock will get up to 100c and start throttling down!

    I re-applied the paste again today and found that most of the paste was bunched up on one side of the heatsink and cpu, so I tried to reinstall the heatsink more level so to create an even spread. But the temperatures aren't much improved.

    I've noticed, that the heatsink doesn't get warm when the cpu is working under full load anymore. Before I could stick my hand in and feel how warm the heat sink is, but now the cpu will throttle at 100c and the heatsink will feel like room temperature.
    This leads me to think there's some issue with the thermal paste drawing heat away from the cpu.

    I have had this thermal paste since I made the machine almost 2 years ago. Should I get some new stuff? I'm planning to switch to a corsair h100i loop for fun...
      My Computer


  2. Posts : 21,004
    Desk1 7 Home Prem / Desk2 10 Pro / Main lap Asus ROG 10 Pro 2 laptop Toshiba 7 Pro Asus P2520 7 & 10
       #2

    Hello charkzilla mate two things one the compound you have may have reached it's use by date ( I usually buy new whenever I re-compound chips of any sort. If you are going to keep the same cooler make sure the cooling fins are completely free of crud - one of those cheap hogs hair artists brushes (bristles as long as you can get them) is great for brushing between the fins - while blowing them through or vacuuming on the out side. If doubtful renew the fan/s or at least clean them and relubricate the bearings (sewing machine oil)- very little - is great..
    That done use these for the compound and preparation.
    Arctic Silver Incorporated - ArctiClean not that cheap and after the initial clean for which I use alcohol of some form or a citrus based oil - there are proprietary solutions available - the preparation solution is used - then the compound applied and I do this by smearing a thin layer (using a vinyl glove) over both surfaces to each edge and the placing a rice grain sized piece of compound in the middle of the CPU and then fix down EVENLY which is something I feel went wrong when you did it the last time because of the uneven spread. Artic Silver contains elemental silver the best thermal conductor known.

    The other option is of course a liquid cool - I have taken to using them because they are quieter and more efficient. The above process is still applicable.
      My Computer


  3. Posts : 78
    Windows 7 Professional
    Thread Starter
       #3

    ICIT2LOL said:
    Hello charkzilla mate two things one the compound you have may have reached it's use by date ( I usually buy new whenever I re-compound chips of any sort. If you are going to keep the same cooler make sure the cooling fins are completely free of crud - one of those cheap hogs hair artists brushes (bristles as long as you can get them) is great for brushing between the fins - while blowing them through or vacuuming on the out side. If doubtful renew the fan/s or at least clean them and relubricate the bearings (sewing machine oil)- very little - is great..
    That done use these for the compound and preparation.
    Arctic Silver Incorporated - ArctiClean not that cheap and after the initial clean for which I use alcohol of some form or a citrus based oil - there are proprietary solutions available - the preparation solution is used - then the compound applied and I do this by smearing a thin layer (using a vinyl glove) over both surfaces to each edge and the placing a rice grain sized piece of compound in the middle of the CPU and then fix down EVENLY which is something I feel went wrong when you did it the last time because of the uneven spread. Artic Silver contains elemental silver the best thermal conductor known.

    The other option is of course a liquid cool - I have taken to using them because they are quieter and more efficient. The above process is still applicable.
    Thanks for your advice. I am also looking to liquid cool. I think having a chip 4.7 stable at 1.26v is worth pushing XD

    I'm just wondering if it's worth thinking about how the heatsink was cool when the cpu was very hot...
      My Computer


  4. Posts : 4,161
    Windows 7 Pro-x64
       #4

    None is better than too much. Sounds like you're applying too much paste if it's oozing to the sides. The purpose of the paste is to fill pores and microscopic voids not insulate. It should appear transparent when applied. Spread it with credit card or similar. Make sure NONE has contacted the motherboard traces or any of the CPU/socket connections.

    Also - Be sure to clean both contact surfaces before applying new paste and watch for hair or dust. These can create a void and cause overheating.
      My Computer


  5. Posts : 78
    Windows 7 Professional
    Thread Starter
       #5

    carwiz said:
    None is better than too much. Sounds like you're applying too much paste if it's oozing to the sides. The purpose of the paste is to fill pores and microscopic voids not insulate. It should appear transparent when applied. Spread it with credit card or similar. Make sure NONE has contacted the motherboard traces or any of the CPU/socket connections.

    Also - Be sure to clean both contact surfaces before applying new paste and watch for hair or dust. These can create a void and cause overheating.
    yes thanks. i'll try less, but it was never "oozing to the sides". It was simply squished to one side as if the heatsink was put with one edge down first. I'll reapply and see how the temps are tomorrow.
      My Computer


  6. Posts : 12,012
    Windows 7 Home Premium SP1, 64-bit
       #6

    charkzilla20 said:
    And it's hotter than i've ever seen it. A 4.4ghz overclock will get up to 100c and start throttling down..............I've noticed, that the heatsink doesn't get warm when the cpu is working under full load anymore.
    Those 2 statements lead me to think that the heat is simply not being transferred properly to the cooling and its fins.

    Irrespective of the paste.

    I have not heard of paste going bad in that short of a time.

    And I would not expect bad paste or a bad paste application to make a huge difference. Some, but not huge.

    I'd be more inclined to think that you are not mounting the cooler properly.

    Are you using those god-forsaken pushpins from Intel?

    It's easy to get only 3 of the 4 corners locked down, which would be a major problem. It isn't easy to confirm proper mounting if you have not removed the motherboard and turned it upside down to look with your own eyes to see if the pins all protrude through the mounting holes by the same amount.
      My Computer


  7. Posts : 13,576
    Windows 10 Pro x64
       #7

    Can you fit a 280 MM radiator ?

    This is a great AOI liquid cooler.

    But the radiator is actually 322 mm.

    Hydro Series™ H110i GT 280mm Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler
      My Computer


  8. Posts : 21,004
    Desk1 7 Home Prem / Desk2 10 Pro / Main lap Asus ROG 10 Pro 2 laptop Toshiba 7 Pro Asus P2520 7 & 10
       #8

    Yes mate well what the others are saying is just reflecting what I advised you and everyone will have their own preference for applying the compound but I still think my gloved finger is more exact as you get little to no overflow as the warmth from your finger makes spreading it very easy and the Arctic kit is by far and away the best stuff to use.

    In future too you will need to keep a regular check on the temps and the crud build up in the radiator fins even if you do go liquid which again I said I preferred. Just as matter of doing that be very careful when fitting the back plate for the cooler pick up head as I stripped out the board (cracked) on one of my machines by over tightening.
      My Computer


  9. Posts : 78
    Windows 7 Professional
    Thread Starter
       #9

    ignatzatsonic said:
    charkzilla20 said:
    And it's hotter than i've ever seen it. A 4.4ghz overclock will get up to 100c and start throttling down..............I've noticed, that the heatsink doesn't get warm when the cpu is working under full load anymore.
    Those 2 statements lead me to think that the heat is simply not being transferred properly to the cooling and its fins.

    Irrespective of the paste.

    I have not heard of paste going bad in that short of a time.

    And I would not expect bad paste or a bad paste application to make a huge difference. Some, but not huge.

    I'd be more inclined to think that you are not mounting the cooler properly.

    Are you using those god-forsaken pushpins from Intel?

    It's easy to get only 3 of the 4 corners locked down, which would be a major problem. It isn't easy to confirm proper mounting if you have not removed the motherboard and turned it upside down to look with your own eyes to see if the pins all protrude through the mounting holes by the same amount.
    It's a CM hyper 212 evo, and it's pretty easy to install, but I'll do some searching and see if I'm doing something blatantly wrong. I don't think I am, though.
    Paste on (dot), Place heatsink carefully over it, screw it down to the bracket in star pattern. The Bracket piece is already set for my socket (lga1150), and only fits in one way...

    AddRAM said:
    Can you fit a 280 MM radiator ?

    This is a great AOI liquid cooler.

    But the radiator is actually 322 mm.

    Hydro Series™ H110i GT 280mm Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler
    I could probably stuff a rad that big in the front of the case (cm haf 922). It definitely won't fit on top, but a 240mm radiator would fit on top.

    ICIT2LOL said:
    Yes mate well what the others are saying is just reflecting what I advised you and everyone will have their own preference for applying the compound but I still think my gloved finger is more exact as you get little to no overflow as the warmth from your finger makes spreading it very easy and the Arctic kit is by far and away the best stuff to use.

    In future too you will need to keep a regular check on the temps and the crud build up in the radiator fins even if you do go liquid which again I said I preferred. Just as matter of doing that be very careful when fitting the back plate for the cooler pick up head as I stripped out the board (cracked) on one of my machines by over tightening.
    I'll see if a local store carries some Arctic paste. Is there a specific arctic paste everyone loves?
    I have always kept eyes on temps and dust. I think more than what's healthy for a person :/

    So how snug should the backplate be? Under the screws on the front show a little wear on the board. I'll show pictures in a bit.
      My Computer


  10. Posts : 12,012
    Windows 7 Home Premium SP1, 64-bit
       #10

    charkzilla20 said:

    I'll see if a local store carries some Arctic paste. Is there a specific arctic paste everyone loves?
    I have always kept eyes on temps and dust. I think more than what's healthy for a person :/

    So how snug should the backplate be? Under the screws on the front show a little wear on the board. I'll show pictures in a bit.
    Every test I've ever seen shows only minor differences among pastes--typically 2 or 3 degrees. I used Arctic Silver 5 for a long time and have recently moved to Noctua's paste, but only because it came free with a Noctua cooler.

    There are tests out there of some goofy stuff used as paste---mayonnaise, etc.

    Lots of hand-wringing and fetishism about pastes, generally overblown and not subject to a lot of reason. Common among over-clockers.

    If you use Arctic, you might go to their web site and see what application method they recommend for your particular processor. Sometimes it's a dot, sometimes it's a thin line, etc, depending on your exact model. I doubt if it's critical.

    If I recall, they recommended a thin line on Intel Core 2 Duo processors. I think they recommend more of a dot on Intel i5s and i7s, but I haven't looked.

    When you remove the cooler after some use, you're going to see an inkblot of some type, but I wouldn't draw any radical conclusions from it unless it was extremely peculiar. There's too many unknown variables related to the microscopic peculiarities of the two mated surfaces and the mounting pressure and technique.
      My Computer


 
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