Replace my entire PC - still black screening.

Hello


first i'm new, don't blame me if i miss something, also english is not my primary language.
Config:
Windows 10 64 / Windows 7 64 /
GTX 780 Ti Phantom
Kingston 16 gb 2133mhz Fury
Motherboard: Asus Z87 Deluxe

i7 4770k 4ghz
Cooler master v850

So, since two weeks of the Windows 10 launch, i have the biggest issue i ever had with my computer (or the biggest problem i ever seen in my life)

First, it happens by a bad nvidia driver before the launch, i rollbacked and everything was fine again, then i updated, issues came back, then tried to rollback again, still have the issues...

In games that ask too much GPU power, i will first getting artifacts for 5 seconds then black screen, gpu fan goes to idle, i can still hear the game, but i can't do anything, even the HDD leds don't flash. I have to push "RESET" on my case.

As i am very good in PCs, i directly known that this was an issue related to the PSU, beacause in fact, the electrical installation of my apartment is 70 years old, i got 4 dead PSU, some lamps just explode with molten iron or metal, so i was looking for a new psu AND a UPS to be definitly safe.

here is what i tested:
-System restore
-Switch GPU to an AMD one (280x toxic)
-New fresh Windows 8.1 installation on another SSD
-sfc scannow
-set default clocks of the CPU
-Switched the PSU (from a Corsair RM 1000 to a Cooler Master v850)
-Installed the UPS (Eaton ELP1600)
-Memtest
-Clear CMOS
-change motherboard
-change ram
-disconnect all other hard drive and leave only one that i formatted and installed windows 7 on
-a lot of other things that i forgot


Also all temps are normal, nothing at this side. i can still play but with minimal settings.



Tried to use only the battery of the UPS, just in case my electrical installation is the issue, but OOOBVIOUSLY, still have the issue ...


There is spare infos about my system - HWinfo 64 http://puu.sh/k74GF/c9d6faefae.png


i'm sure that my CPU is the cause beacause it's the only one component that i didn't change, maybe we can start from here ?


Also i heard about nvlddmkm, i seen some errors about this in windows error thing, i did the thing that you replace a .sys and some reg files but obviously that didn't work.

Actually, i'm on Windows 7 but i will soon go back to home on my main installation,

I'm really getting crazy and thinking about i'm in coma and living my worst nightmare, i'm writing this just in case ok ? ..

Hello and welcome Kepler mate first up as soon as I started to read the post I was already thinking PSU and I do like to start with the simplest but most important components straight away so have a read of this and then run if you can the program and let us now what comes up

Using HW Info

PART A:

You can test the volts onthe PSU with HW Info HWiNFO,HWiNFO32/64 - Download <download the right bit version and close the right hand window select Sensorsand scroll down to the power section where you will see what the volts aredoing see my pic. In my pic the section (Nuvoton)with VBATT is a dead give away you are in the section for the rail voltages.There are other section titles and one that pops up often is ITE

Now the voltage on thedifferent rails have to be within 5% =+/- of what is required or the machinewill not work properly if at all.

See this for the railvoltage info

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/power-supply-specifications-atx-reference,3061.html (Section 2.)

The original right handwindow shows the machine running and is handy for that but for looking at thecomponents in some detail close it and use the main left hand side panel

FOR OTHER COMPONENTS

PART B:

Open each small squarewith + in it on the section the components are in and then click on theindividual component/s (it willhighlight in blue) - in the right hand side will appear all sorts of detailsincluding brands speeds and other essential info that particular device. Seepic for example.

I am a little confused now mate just what OS are you running? I suspect 7 as someone else the other day could not run HW Info in 10. The voltage on the rails is good and not to be a worry.

The CPU I suppose you could run the Prime test and see what eventuates though I would keep an eye on the temps when running it Prime95