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Most AV's have services that persist and can't be switched off using MSCONFIG - that may be the case here. I'd advise uninstalling ALL AVs and running their respective clean-up tools, then installing the wanted one.
Most AV's have services that persist and can't be switched off using MSCONFIG - that may be the case here. I'd advise uninstalling ALL AVs and running their respective clean-up tools, then installing the wanted one.
Humour me and run this mate please
Using HW Info
PART A:
You can test the volts onthe PSU with HW Info HWiNFO,HWiNFO32/64 - Download <download the right bit version and close the right hand window select Sensorsand scroll down to the power section where you will see what the volts aredoing see my pic. In my pic the section (Nuvoton)with VBATT is a dead give away you are in the section for the rail voltages.There are other section titles and one that pops up often is ITE
Now the voltage on thedifferent rails have to be within 5% =+/- of what is required or the machinewill not work properly if at all.
See this for the railvoltage info
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/power-supply-specifications-atx-reference,3061.html (Section 2.)
The original right handwindow shows the machine running and is handy for that but for looking at thecomponents in some detail close it and use the main left hand side panel
FOR OTHER COMPONENTS
PART B:
Open each small squarewith + in it on the section the components are in and then click on theindividual component/s (it willhighlight in blue) - in the right hand side will appear all sorts of detailsincluding brands speeds and other essential info that particular device. Seepic for example.
PART A: please the other sytuff we might come back to see pic for what I want
Hmm hate to disagree polanskiman because the 3.3 rail is way out of whack as is the 12v rail in all honesty I am wondering how the machine is working at all.I will try that but I pretty much doubt that it is a PSU issue. If I use my old HD with XP installed the computer shutdowns normally.
I think like a lot of other folks the importance of maintaining a the correct voltages for the running of the machine is too often overlooked.
Now if you read that link to tomshardware I sent with the HW Info post it will tell you just how important it is and in particular that the supplied voltage must be within 5% +/- (positive / negative) of the voltage it is supposed to be. Some simple maths will show you how out of whack your voltages are.
For example a 12v rail should be at the very minimum 11.6v and maximum of 12.6v so in effect your 12v rail of 11.28v is really quite unacceptable and likely to be the cause of a lot of the problems.
There is also the issue of the Power Good signal - also in that link please read it - the author is a very well known and respected technician. It in itself may well be the cause of the shutdowns.
As you may know components these days run within very fine voltage tolerances and it doesn't take much imagination to see that any slight variation is going to throw things out of kilter.
Hello ICIT2LOL,
Thanks.
Lets assume this is the problem. Why then the computer shuts down properly with Win XP? And ultimately if this is the problem how do I "maintain" those voltages in range??
Just to clarify. The computer works perfectly fine. Boots up ok and runs ok. It's the shutdown that is the problem. In fact I believe Windows properly shuts down as well as the drive itself. Only the board, CPU, GPU, LAN, fans and obviously the PSU remain on.
Hi,
Is machine is old ?
I imagine coming from the x-p days of the past
x-p is not a demanding os,
How old is this existing psu what is it wattage wise.
7 is a much more demanding os for sure
I know quality psu's are expensive I have platinum versions of the EVGA 850 and 1200 P2 line this is something you don't want to skimp out on and get a cheap and if it's an original psu from the computer manufacture it has seen it's lifetime.
The machine is around 4 years old and is specifically designed to work with Windows 7 Pro as it came with the license. We downgraded to XP when we purchased the unit as it was the OS all other computers in our company were using and this made maintenance easier.
I could try swapping the original PSU with a brand new Seasonic Platinum rated one that I have in stock see if the problem disappears. If it does disappear then we know were the problem was lying.
I'll keep you posted.
Ok I will watch with interest and like I said I work by elimination and am not saying that I am right if the swap out it works all well and good if not then it is on to the next thing.I'll keep you posted.
But I shall leave that to you and the others helping you now.