GPU and CPU overheating and overloading when the PC is idle.

Hello and welcome Simeon mate first check thoroughly if you haven't already the inside of the machine for dust and general crud especially the cooling fins of the CPU and GPU plus any case ventilating fans. Now what sort of temps are we talking here??

Plus personally I would be running these
SFC /SCANNOW Command - System File Checker
Disk Check < if necessary include the /f and /r in the command line as per Option2
Run these in safe mode and the sfc often best run for two to three runs

if no fix then these

SUPERAntiSpyware | Remove Malware | Remove Spyware - AntiMalware, AntiSpyware, AntiAdware!
Malwarebytes | Malwarebytes Anti-Malware Premium
AdwCleaner Download
ADW download from bleeping computer delete any rubbish found with the malware scans
(NB If you are running Kaspersky as the main AV then it might need disabling it when trying ADW because it does not like it at times)

do what I have suggested as starting point.


Edit: Now if these do not find anything run this it will run in a non Windows environment and scan everything Kaspersky Rescue Disk 10

Thank you for replying.
The first image is before the process starts

https://s31.postimg.org/vxa3mjy17/image.png

And this second image is after the PC is idle for about 1 min. By the way , the temperatures are going up to 70-80 C if i don't move the mouse.

https://s31.postimg.org/lfk1qsx6z/image.png

Also, i already cleaned all the dust from the PC, that's not the issue.
I ran a system scan and no problems were detected. Also tried Malwarebytes and ADW but still the same issue.Just finished with Super Anti Malware program you suggested, nothing out of the ordinary Adware Tracking Cookies found .... deleted it all , nothing changed ..

Ok before we go ahead with the Kaspersky rescue disk see this and let us know the results
Using HW Info
PART A:
You can test the volts on the PSU with HW Info HWiNFO, HWiNFO32/64 - Download < download the right bit version and close the right hand window select Sensors and scroll down to the power section where you will see what the volts are doing see my pic. In my pic the section (Nuvoton) with VBATT as a dead give away you are in the section for the rail voltages. There are other section titles and one that pops up often is ITE (sometimes the usual one for Gigabyte boards)
Now the voltage on the different rails have to be within 5% =+/- of what is required or the machine will not work properly if at all.
Limits +/-
12v = 11.4 – 12.6v
5v = 4.74 – 5.25v
3.3v = 3.135 – 3.465v
The Power good signal voltage at pin 8 on the 24 pin plug (grey cable) should be the same as the 5v rail reading/s
See this for the rail voltage info
PSUs 101: A Detailed Look Into Power Supplies (Section 2.)
The original right hand window shows the machine running and is handy for that but for looking at the components in some detail close it and use the main left hand side panel
FOR OTHER COMPONENTS
PART B:
Open each small square with + in it on the section the components are in and then click on the individual component/s (it will highlight in blue) - in the right hand side will appear all sorts of details including brands speeds and other essential info that particular device. See pic for example.

Now you may think the PSU has nothing to od with anything but it is very often missed as a cause of problems it doesn't take long to do and I would like to see what the rail volts are for your PSU see the pic of my Ivy (Asus board ) build for an idea of what you are looking for.

Ok mate looking at the rail volts you can see the 12v rail is so out of whack and is probably the worst I have ever seen - see pic.

Now the only way to confirm that fault is to measure it witha digital multimeter black lead to any black on the 24 pin plug and the red lead to any yellow on that same plug. Don't use one of the old analogue meters though they inject typically 9v into a circuit to test. If that reading comes back the same the PSU is no good.

See this https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_...unit_(computer) < scroll down that page and you will come to a large diagram of where to find the rails on the 24 pin plug

Ok mat one thing I did think of is that you can also check the volts in the BIOS though I always think the meter method just cannot be wrong. By the by what is your PSU - brand and wattage.

Ok mate now just how old is the PSU as well no rush though do what you have to first. Now this might sound a bit odd but shining a very bright light into the PSU can yu see much dust etc and also the caps you can see are there any that look bloated and is there any hot resin smell being blown out.

Just to remind you and I am guessing you know DO NOT attempt doing anything with the PSU internals there are potentially lethal voltages generated inside - a bit like the energies you would expect in a heart defibrillator.