Solved Booting/PC starting problem?

[saresu]

I'm not sure if I'm posting at the right place or if this problem's been addressed before, If that's the case pls kindly show me the link... Thanks.

I need some help with this:

After not using my PC for a few days, when I switch it on, it just runs for a few seconds, shuts down then it switches on and goes to the BIOS.

Then I get out of the BIOS and the PC boots Windows normally. Another strange thing is that the hidden icons "available connections" and "lan" icons don't show (at the lower/right corner). Only if I restart, the icons appear.

I built this PC on 2014 and it's been working so fine, this is first time a problem occur.

Do u guys know about this problem?

Thank you

My PC configuration:

Windows 7 Pro 64bit SP 1
I74770K 3.50GHz
16Gb Crucial Ballistix
Asus Z87 pro
Samsung 840 pro 128Gb
Seagate Barracuda 3TB
Cooling: Corsair Hydro Series H100i
PSU: Corsair AX 860i
Case: Fractal Define XL R2

 

[Layback Bear]

If you are turning off the power to your AX-860i what is happening is normal.

That on off process is the power supply doing a self test.
Every time you remove the power to the power supply and then turn the power to it back on and start your computer it is designed to do a self test.

 

[ICIT2LOL]

If you are turning off the power to your AX-860i what is happening is normal.

That on off process is the power supply doing a self test.
Every time you remove the power to the power supply and then turn the power to it back on and start your computer it is designed to do a self test.

see this

The Power good signal voltage at pin 8 on the 24 pin plug (grey cable) should be the same as the 5v rail reading/s
See this for the rail voltage info
PSUs 101: A Detailed Look Into Power Supplies (Section 2.)

 

[saresu]

If you are turning off the power to your AX-860i what is happening is normal.

That on off process is the power supply doing a self test.
Every time you remove the power to the power supply and then turn the power to it back on and start your computer it is designed to do a self test.

see this

The Power good signal voltage at pin 8 on the 24 pin plug (grey cable) should be the same as the 5v rail reading/s
See this for the rail voltage info
PSUs 101: A Detailed Look Into Power Supplies (Section 2.)

I'll definitely read that. Thanks a lot.

 

[saresu]

If you are turning off the power to your AX-860i what is happening is normal.

That on off process is the power supply doing a self test.
Every time you remove the power to the power supply and then turn the power to it back on and start your computer it is designed to do a self test.

I see... But why now?
I always turn the switch off at the PSU and use PC days later, I've been using like this over 2 years. It's never happened before

And what about the Internet icons?

 

[ICIT2LOL]

If you are turning off the power to your AX-860i what is happening is normal.

That on off process is the power supply doing a self test.
Every time you remove the power to the power supply and then turn the power to it back on and start your computer it is designed to do a self test.

I see... But why now?
I always turn the switch off at the PSU and use PC days later, I've been using like this over 2 years. It's never happened before

And what about the Internet icons?

Yes mate we hear what you are saying but like anything else a PSU can go bad even after a short time of operation and two years is a long time if the device is used at heavy loads. I don't understand why you switch it off at the PSU though I always switch my equipment with the Start button and then off at the uninterrupted power supply unit and surge boards so that the machines are in essence isolated from the mains supply - it could be over use of that switch causing issues because as you may know any switch causes a tiny arc each time it is actuated and tends to burn the contacts a tiny bit more each time.
As you said read through tht article I linked.

 

[saresu]

I see... But why now?
I always turn the switch off at the PSU and use PC days later, I've been using like this over 2 years. It's never happened before

And what about the Internet icons?

Yes mate we hear what you are saying but like anything else a PSU can go bad even after a short time of operation and two years is a long time if the device is used at heavy loads. I don't understand why you switch it off at the PSU though I always switch my equipment with the Start button and then off at the uninterrupted power supply unit and surge boards so that the machines are in essence isolated from the mains supply - it could be over use of that switch causing issues because as you may know any switch causes a tiny arc each time it is actuated and tends to burn the contacts a tiny bit more each time.
As you said read through tht article I linked.

No no, I guess there's a misunderstanding here. If I'm understanding u, I've never switch off from PSU straight, sorry my English... I shutdown and wait the fans to stop then I switch off at the PSU. I wonder if I'm following your point.

I didn't know about the "arc" thing

Anyway, yes. I will study the article Thanks a lot for the help and generosity! This isn't even a Windows related issue.

 

[ICIT2LOL]

No I know what you are doing powering doin then switching the PSU off with it's rocker power switch. What I am saying is inside the switch there are contacts that are opened and closed each time you operate it and the mere touching of the switch contacts creates if only on a very small scale a small spark (arc) and it can gradually eat away at the contacts surfaces. You only have to switch off at where the power lead is plugged in at the mains input or the surge board switch - operating the PSU switch is really not necessary at all - you gain absolutely nothing by doing so. If you are doing it in case of a power surge, dropout or direct lightning strike then particularly with a a lightning strike just flicking the switch off will achieve nothing because of the enormous power that will connect to it via the mains power lead by the extremely high voltage "jumping" the gap .
You are best shutting the power off at your surge board and even that is no absolute protection against what I have described above - that can only be avoided by unplugging the entire power source from the wall.
The pic is simplistic and PSU switches usually have four contacts inside two for positive and two for negative - what they call a double throw switch.

 

[saresu]

No I know what you are doing powering doin then switching the PSU off with it's rocker power switch. What I am saying is inside the switch there are contacts that are opened and closed each time you operate it and the mere touching of the switch contacts creates if only on a very small scale a small spark (arc) and it can gradually eat away at the contacts surfaces. You only have to switch off at where the power lead is plugged in at the mains input or the surge board switch - operating the PSU switch is really not necessary at all - you gain absolutely nothing by doing so. If you are doing it in case of a power surge, dropout or direct lightning strike then particularly with a a lightning strike just flicking the switch off will achieve nothing because of the enormous power that will connect to it via the mains power lead by the extremely high voltage "jumping" the gap .
You are best shutting the power off at your surge board and even that is no absolute protection against what I have described above - that can only be avoided by unplugging the entire power source from the wall.
The pic is simplistic and PSU switches usually have four contacts inside two for positive and two for negative - what they call a double throw switch.

Omg... Didn't know that... So I guess I damaged my PSU to some extent.

 

[ICIT2LOL]

No mate I am not saying that you have probably damaged the contacts or the PSU just that the least you use that method of shutting the PSU down the less likely to are to create more wear on the switch contacts.

Now we can get back to the problem if you get into safe mode run these
http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/1538-sfc-scannow-command-system-file-checker.html
http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/433-disk-check.html < if necessary include the /f and /r in the command line as per Option2
Run these in safe mode and the sfc often best run for two to three runs

Now it this gets system going properly again then all well and good if not run this for us so we can rule out the PSU rail voltages.
Using HW Info
PART A:
You can test the volts on the PSU with HW Info HWiNFO, HWiNFO32/64 - Download < download the right bit version and close the right hand window select Sensors and scroll down to the power section where you will see what the volts are doing see my pic. In my pic the section (Nuvoton) with VBATT as a dead give away you are in the section for the rail voltages. There are other section titles and one that pops up often is ITE (sometimes the usual one for Gigabyte boards)
Now the voltage on the different rails have to be within 5% =+/- of what is required or the machine will not work properly if at all.
Limits +/-
12v = 11.4 – 12.6v
5v = 4.74 – 5.25v
3.3v = 3.135 – 3.465v
The Power good signal voltage at pin 8 on the 24 pin plug (grey cable) should be the same as the 5v rail reading/s
See this for the rail voltage info
PSUs 101: A Detailed Look Into Power Supplies (Section 2.)
The original right hand window shows the machine running and is handy for that but for looking at the components in some detail close it and use the main left hand side panel
FOR OTHER COMPONENTS
PART B:
Open each small square with + in it on the section the components are in and then click on the individual component/s (it will highlight in blue) - in the right hand side will appear all sorts of details including brands speeds and other essential info that particular device. See pic for example.

 

[Barman58]

I would not concern yourself with this, the quoted life for a PSU switch is likely to be measured in millions of operations so even if you turned it off and on several times an hour the switch would likely last thousands of years, and even if it did fail they are normally standard items that are available for pennies

 

[Layback Bear]

I have the same power supply and I noticed the same reaction after turning off the power supply.
I called Asus and they explained that it was normal because the power supply was doing a self test after the power supply was turned off and back on again.
It acted the same way when the AX-860i was installed the first time.

 

[saresu]

No mate I am not saying that you have probably damaged the contacts or the PSU just that the least you use that method of shutting the PSU down the less likely to are to create more wear on the switch contacts.

Now we can get back to the problem if you get into safe mode run these
http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/1538-sfc-scannow-command-system-file-checker.html
http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/433-disk-check.html < if necessary include the /f and /r in the command line as per Option2
Run these in safe mode and the sfc often best run for two to three runs

Now it this gets system going properly again then all well and good if not run this for us so we can rule out the PSU rail voltages.
Using HW Info
PART A:
You can test the volts on the PSU with HW Info HWiNFO, HWiNFO32/64 - Download < download the right bit version and close the right hand window select Sensors and scroll down to the power section where you will see what the volts are doing see my pic. In my pic the section (Nuvoton) with VBATT as a dead give away you are in the section for the rail voltages. There are other section titles and one that pops up often is ITE (sometimes the usual one for Gigabyte boards)
Now the voltage on the different rails have to be within 5% =+/- of what is required or the machine will not work properly if at all.
Limits +/-
12v = 11.4 – 12.6v
5v = 4.74 – 5.25v
3.3v = 3.135 – 3.465v
The Power good signal voltage at pin 8 on the 24 pin plug (grey cable) should be the same as the 5v rail reading/s
See this for the rail voltage info
PSUs 101: A Detailed Look Into Power Supplies (Section 2.)
The original right hand window shows the machine running and is handy for that but for looking at the components in some detail close it and use the main left hand side panel
FOR OTHER COMPONENTS
PART B:
Open each small square with + in it on the section the components are in and then click on the individual component/s (it will highlight in blue) - in the right hand side will appear all sorts of details including brands speeds and other essential info that particular device. See pic for example.

I did all that. So far so good. So is everything apparently alright?

 

[saresu]

resuming: you guys usually don't/rarely operate the PSU's switch like I've been doing all this time. Right?

that's common sense that I was totally ignorant about.

 

[saresu]

Anyway. I'm really glad I came to get help here. Thanks a lot! Problem solved

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Yep well that is good I only mentioned the PSU issue because as quoted by Scott Mueller (the link authour) PSU's are more commonly a problem than most people think they are and I agree with that usually folks dive straight in for the GPU or hard drive for example but if you think about it NOTHING works without a good PSU