New Nvidia Geforce GTX 460 1gb Freezing or BSODing on boot

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well packing mistakes can happen but ,Im not to sure if you installed display drivers only or features towards that specific card? the 460 If so why not try uninstalling the drivers -reboot /go driver sweep -reboot --then go to Nvidia site get the latest forceware and see if that does it


In some cases something as simple as installing wrong drivers would seem to cause stability issues and if the ram was already working previously and seems to have no errors ? I dont know if you ran test or not just assuming

I would say go for it only thing that can go wrong is you updated to a newer driver also i never use the Disc for the driver i always go straight to the site

BTW the Psu is very good so i doubt that is it
 

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Ok, I'll try that!

EDIT: I've uninstalled the drivers. Used the auto detect and installed the recomended drivers. I'll let this run for a while and see how it goes. Hopefully it's this.
 
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It froze again. What now?
 

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Like i was saying before maybe some other hardware is frozen check the control panel and hardware see if there is a yellow caution

might give you a clue to why it is freezing something is defently not working right check there and also

check the stability of your system using win 7 tools they will help you find errors too

if possible go into bios and put the system into default settings then apply the hardware search might stablize your system enough to do some research on it
 

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CoreI7-6700K MrFingerIII Special Builds
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Asrock Fatality K6 Z170 Socket 1151
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32GB G-Skill TridentZ 3200mhz 16-18-18-38 DDR4
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AC97 Creative Rage Tactic 3D Headphones Bluetooth
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250GB Samsung Evo840SSD Seagate baracuda 500 GB WD Mybook 500Gb 1TB Seagate Barracuda
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Enthod Pro Full Tower
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Corsair H110i GT 280 mm High Performance WaterBlock
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Logitech wireless keyboard
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Cox Cable 100+ mb
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My Other Rig is a AMD FX8320E @4.6Ghz 16GB Ballistic Sport Ram
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GPU GTX Gigabyte 970G1
There is no cautions :(
 

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Windows 10 Home Premium 64bit sp1Intel I7-6700K @ 4.6 Ghz 1.344 volts everyday OC32GB G-Skill TridentZ 3200mhz 16-18-18-38 DDR4Sli Gigabyte Windforce GTX 980 G1
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
CoreI7-6700K MrFingerIII Special Builds
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Windows 10 Home Premium 64bit sp1
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Intel I7-6700K @ 4.6 Ghz 1.344 volts everyday OC
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Asrock Fatality K6 Z170 Socket 1151
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32GB G-Skill TridentZ 3200mhz 16-18-18-38 DDR4
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Sli Gigabyte Windforce GTX 980 G1
Sound Card
AC97 Creative Rage Tactic 3D Headphones Bluetooth
Monitor(s) Displays
27" Asus ROG Swift PG278Q G-Sync 48" Vizio Smart HD TV
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2560x1440p 27"- 48" Currently Gaming at 2560x1440p Res 2K
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250GB Samsung Evo840SSD Seagate baracuda 500 GB WD Mybook 500Gb 1TB Seagate Barracuda
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HX1050w Corsair Silver 80plus certified crosfire/sli
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Enthod Pro Full Tower
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Corsair H110i GT 280 mm High Performance WaterBlock
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Logitech wireless keyboard
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Cox Cable 100+ mb
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WebRoot Spysweeper with Antivirus
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My Other Rig is a AMD FX8320E @4.6Ghz 16GB Ballistic Sport Ram
Mobo Asrock Fatality 990FX 120GB OCZ SSD 1TB Seagate Barracuda Corsair H75 Cooling PSU Corsair CX750
GPU GTX Gigabyte 970G1
Well ive never had any issues with my existing card.
 

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Windows 10 Home Premium 64bit sp1Intel I7-6700K @ 4.6 Ghz 1.344 volts everyday OC32GB G-Skill TridentZ 3200mhz 16-18-18-38 DDR4Sli Gigabyte Windforce GTX 980 G1
Computer type
PC/Desktop
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CoreI7-6700K MrFingerIII Special Builds
OS
Windows 10 Home Premium 64bit sp1
CPU
Intel I7-6700K @ 4.6 Ghz 1.344 volts everyday OC
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Asrock Fatality K6 Z170 Socket 1151
Memory
32GB G-Skill TridentZ 3200mhz 16-18-18-38 DDR4
Graphics Card(s)
Sli Gigabyte Windforce GTX 980 G1
Sound Card
AC97 Creative Rage Tactic 3D Headphones Bluetooth
Monitor(s) Displays
27" Asus ROG Swift PG278Q G-Sync 48" Vizio Smart HD TV
Screen Resolution
2560x1440p 27"- 48" Currently Gaming at 2560x1440p Res 2K
Hard Drives
250GB Samsung Evo840SSD Seagate baracuda 500 GB WD Mybook 500Gb 1TB Seagate Barracuda
PSU
HX1050w Corsair Silver 80plus certified crosfire/sli
Case
Enthod Pro Full Tower
Cooling
Corsair H110i GT 280 mm High Performance WaterBlock
Keyboard
Logitech wireless keyboard
Mouse
Logitech wireless mouse
Internet Speed
Cox Cable 100+ mb
Antivirus
WebRoot Spysweeper with Antivirus
Browser
IE-10, Chrome, Opera
Other Info
My Other Rig is a AMD FX8320E @4.6Ghz 16GB Ballistic Sport Ram
Mobo Asrock Fatality 990FX 120GB OCZ SSD 1TB Seagate Barracuda Corsair H75 Cooling PSU Corsair CX750
GPU GTX Gigabyte 970G1
I'm sure it came with the drivers but ill try that.
 

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Ok, lets get this done...

#1- Reinstall old card with new PSU and test.
2a-It works flawlessly
2b-The error still happens

2a-Now we know it is either the new card itself, a lack of power for the new card, bios settings, or drivers
2b-Now we know it is either the GPU, PSU, RAM, a bios corruption, CPU, or a failing MB.
-----
Your PSU does not have a listed 12volt rail amperage on newegg...that could be bad. Newegg.com - OCZ ModXStream Pro 700W Modular High Performance Power Supply compatible with Intel Sandybridge Core i3 i5 i7 and AMD Phenom

Here are some unofficial numbers for it, stating ~2x25amp 12volt rails
Support Question OCZ700MXSP 12v rails -- GTX 460 SLI?

The video card wants between 31 and 38 amps, prolly more towards the 38 due to stock OC on GPU
ASUS GeForce ENGTX560 Ti DirectCU II Video Card Review - The ASUS GeForce GTX560 DirectCU II - Legit Reviews
Power requirements for graphics cards | MSI HQ User-to-User FAQ

It looks like your PSU is the culprit, stop fingering your RAM, it feels molested.

Lessons to be learned.
1-Don't buy stock overclocked stuff, period.
2-Don't buy modular power supplies, they cheated you on the 12volt rails. Just get some zip ties and keep house.
3-READ more before making purchases. Newegg and tiger direct reviews, when combined with detailed research into available products can help nip problems in the bud.
4-NEVER use the driver CD that came with your card, just go download the newest one and have a clean install of the most up-to-date work from the code monkeys.

Return the PSU (or keep it as a spare for a different computer) and purchase this,
Newegg.com - Antec EarthWatts EA-650 GREEN 650W ATX12V v2.3 SLI Ready CrossFire Certified 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply

I used it with a GTX470 flawlessly, it has 2x38amp 12volt rails, and I've never had an Antec PSU fail on me or my clients.

After seeing your PSU and GPU,low amps looks like your issue. Good Luck.

*note, spend a lil more and get what you pay for. This is running my GTX470 now,
Newegg.com - Antec High Current Gamer Series HCG-900 900W ATX12V v2.3 / EPS12V v2.91 SLI Certified CrossFire Certified 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply

I would also suggest using a high joule rating surge supressor AND an UPS to help protect your components. You already picked out a PSU with PFC, which is becoming standard now so less of a headache to have to look for.

I'd bet money its your PSU being under amped.:cool:
 

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Rosewill ARMOR(Fans=2 top, 1 front, 1 MB tray, 1 side panel)
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Thanks man I'll try that. However. The new psu was just an upgrade from the warranty because my old one broke. I may be able to get them to send me a different model.
 

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Do it!

Get them on the phone man, they advertised that thing as being SLI ready because it had 2pcie connectors. 2x25amps (where it is really one shared 25amp rail) is in many ways screwing people over that actualy need it for SLI. According to specs I've found, this PSU would just barely let you use a GeForce GTS 450, and I seriously doubt it would let you SLI two of them.

You should ask OCZ if they will let you have a credit towards purchasing a better one. That isn't asking them more than what they should do. If you have to go OCZ, here are 2 I spec'd out for good output amps.
OCZ-ZT550W (+3.3V@24A, +5V@24A, +12V@45A, [email protected], +5VSB@3A )
OCZ-ZT650W (+3.3V@30A, +5V@24A, +12V@54A, [email protected], +5VSB@3A)
---The 550 wants 8amps in, the 650 wants 10amps in.

When I spec'd out my new PSU, I decided that 4 12volt rails would assure 1 for CPU, 1 for MB header, and 2 for power on a vid card. It said 40amps on each rail so it won my money. From what I read single rail vs multi rails doesn't mean that much as long as the amps are there for all your 12volt stuff, CPU, MB, Vid card.

OCZ is a good company for RAM and SSDs, I've never gotten one of their PSUs because I like going with what companies originally started manufacturing. However, I do have 5 SSDs from OCZ, all of them tip top products imo. ASUS did motherboards, evga did vid cards, antec did PSUs, and so on. Most companies have expanded into new markets, but they have the most time in research and development with the markets they started in. Gigabyte has been getting some cudos for their MBs in the past few years, so their vid cards are probably a good gamble.

If OCZ doesn't get you straight, just tell them Antec and Corsair are making stronger PSUs so you have somewhere to correct your problem and cut your losses with their company.

I'd really like to know 2 things if you could get back to us. First, did OCZ make an effort to help you correct your problem (a refund, you pay difference in upgrade, free upgrade). Second, did getting a PSU with more amps on the rails correct your problem?

Good luck on the phone!
 

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Self-made (7.8 WEI base score)
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Intel Core i7-2700K Sandy Bridge @5.0Ghz ~1.3661-1.5Vcore
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ASUS Maximus IV Gene-Z mATX Intel Z68
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G.Skill 2x4GB @ 1866Mhz CL-11 (underclock from XMP)
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recertified PNY Nvidia GTX 470
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SupremeFX X-Fi 2
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Samsung PX2370
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RAID0=2x OCZ Vertex III (SATA6Gb/s) 120GB SSDs,
Western Digital Green 2TB HDD
PSU
900W Antec High Current Gamer (Intake from bottom)
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Rosewill ARMOR(Fans=2 top, 1 front, 1 MB tray, 1 side panel)
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Corsair H80 Liquid CPU Cooler (pulling in from the back)
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Logitech G15
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Hauppauge TV tuner w/remote,
ASUS Blu-Ray burner
Thanks mate. Yeah I had the older 700w version of that psu and it blew up on me ( starting to think ocz are shit ) and they gave me a free upgrade as a replacement.
 

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Well all my SSD's are faster than the first one I bought (40GB Mushkin), and they are all OCZ. Its just that some companies do what they started doing best. SSDs aren't that far of a jump from RAM (they are vaguely related), and I'm pretty sure thats what OCZ started with. They are a good company, their rebates happen fast, they make some good products, and they obviously tried to take care of you. Lets see what they do next. Even if they do nothing, just do like I said and cut your losses and get that cheap antec 650 green I posted. That OCZ PSU can be your spare to fix a friends facebook computer.
 

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Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self-made (7.8 WEI base score)
OS
Windows 7 Professional x64
CPU
Intel Core i7-2700K Sandy Bridge @5.0Ghz ~1.3661-1.5Vcore
Motherboard
ASUS Maximus IV Gene-Z mATX Intel Z68
Memory
G.Skill 2x4GB @ 1866Mhz CL-11 (underclock from XMP)
Graphics Card(s)
recertified PNY Nvidia GTX 470
Sound Card
SupremeFX X-Fi 2
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung PX2370
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
RAID0=2x OCZ Vertex III (SATA6Gb/s) 120GB SSDs,
Western Digital Green 2TB HDD
PSU
900W Antec High Current Gamer (Intake from bottom)
Case
Rosewill ARMOR(Fans=2 top, 1 front, 1 MB tray, 1 side panel)
Cooling
Corsair H80 Liquid CPU Cooler (pulling in from the back)
Keyboard
Logitech G15
Mouse
Logitech basic
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1.67 Mbps Up / 9.8 Mbps Down
Other Info
Hauppauge TV tuner w/remote,
ASUS Blu-Ray burner
Ok, new problem. Sorry for my delayed response. Haven't bought a new psu yet but I tried to boot my 2tb with my old card and im still getting the BSOD. Only change there is the power supply. Do I still go for a new power supply or is it possibly a different issue?
 

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Wow man, I'm sorry I've failed you

How are we doing in bios, can you sit in bios paging through the menus and options without a crash? Have you flashed the cmos or tried using ASUS crash free bios restore? Jumping the bios has fixed alot of weird problems for me in the past.
If you can use BIOS then there is probably nothing WRONG with the video card. It may just need the amps when you boot into windows and have the full display aspect ratio engaged.

What happens with a live cd when you boot? Try Linux mint live cd or some distro like that and see if it stops. Unplug all sata drives and boot from dvd/cd. Id really like to know how Linux acts.
Main Page - Linux Mint

When you unplug the 2TB and run windows off the SSD do you get the error?

Your motherboard has alot of bad feedback on newegg for DOA and faulty components. Maybe it finally gave up, reseating stuff and upgrading components can influence a MB to die. Someone usually just inherets my old PC and I don't bother trying to give an old horse new shoes.

If it is a SATA issue, maybe you can try other sata slots.

Are you getting clean power? Are you using an UPS to condition power before it gets to your PSU?

Since you have isolated the gtx460 as not the problem, it looks like PSU, MB, HDD is on the chopping block for troubleshooting.
 

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Windows 7 Professional x64Intel Core i7-2700K Sandy Bridge @5.0Ghz ~1.3...G.Skill 2x4GB @ 1866Mhz CL-11 (underclock fro...recertified PNY Nvidia GTX 470
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self-made (7.8 WEI base score)
OS
Windows 7 Professional x64
CPU
Intel Core i7-2700K Sandy Bridge @5.0Ghz ~1.3661-1.5Vcore
Motherboard
ASUS Maximus IV Gene-Z mATX Intel Z68
Memory
G.Skill 2x4GB @ 1866Mhz CL-11 (underclock from XMP)
Graphics Card(s)
recertified PNY Nvidia GTX 470
Sound Card
SupremeFX X-Fi 2
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung PX2370
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
RAID0=2x OCZ Vertex III (SATA6Gb/s) 120GB SSDs,
Western Digital Green 2TB HDD
PSU
900W Antec High Current Gamer (Intake from bottom)
Case
Rosewill ARMOR(Fans=2 top, 1 front, 1 MB tray, 1 side panel)
Cooling
Corsair H80 Liquid CPU Cooler (pulling in from the back)
Keyboard
Logitech G15
Mouse
Logitech basic
Internet Speed
1.67 Mbps Up / 9.8 Mbps Down
Other Info
Hauppauge TV tuner w/remote,
ASUS Blu-Ray burner
How are we doing in bios, can you sit in bios paging through the menus and options without a crash? Have you flashed the cmos or tried using ASUS crash free bios restore? Jumping the bios has fixed alot of weird problems for me in the past.
If you can use BIOS then there is probably nothing WRONG with the video card. It may just need the amps when you boot into windows and have the full display aspect ratio engaged.

Yes bios is fine. I haven't flashed it as I don't really know how to and really don't feel comfortable messing around with it.




What happens with a live cd when you boot? Try Linux mint live cd or some distro like that and see if it stops. Unplug all sata drives and boot from dvd/cd. Id really like to know how Linux acts.
Main Page - Linux Mint

Haven't tried this. I think I will. I have ubuntu installed on my 2tb also. I'll try boot that.

When you unplug the 2TB and run windows off the SSD do you get the error?

No 2tb bsod's on booting windows. The ssd works flawlessly after about 5-10 minutes it comepletley freezes

Your motherboard has alot of bad feedback on newegg for DOA and faulty components. Maybe it finally gave up, reseating stuff and upgrading components can influence a MB to die. Someone usually just inherets my old PC and I don't bother trying to give an old horse new shoes.

if the problems persist I'll buy a new board and processor

If it is a SATA issue, maybe you can try other sata slots.
I've tried different slots issues still happen

Are you getting clean power? Are you using an UPS to condition power before it gets to your PSU?

I have no idea what this means.


I'll try the linux disk later and see how it gets on
 

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ok it has to be the live cd or else you could just be loading old drivers off the hdd still. The ssd freezing is making me think dead MB.

flashing cmos means to reset the BIOS config by shorting out two pins that stick out of your MB, there is a littl plastic tab with metal inside that you slide off where it is and over to hit a different pin. you hit power then its flashed, you move jumper back it boots normally. look up the motherboard manual for your MB and try that.

an Uninterruptable power supply can correct problems where voltage is dipping down too low on your AC line or where the frequency is out of whack. Can lead to PC issues that are very difficult to diagnose to the power line.


try this
Memtest86+ - Advanced Memory Diagnostic Tool
boot from it and run the test, see if it comes back clean and error free. If it does then maybe its the sata controller gone bad, you could maybe just buy add in card to get new good sata.

try linux live cd
jump bios
run memtest

Do you have an ide header that you could try booting pata?

You learn alot about computers when your MB slowly dies and you want it to work.
 

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Windows 7 Professional x64Intel Core i7-2700K Sandy Bridge @5.0Ghz ~1.3...G.Skill 2x4GB @ 1866Mhz CL-11 (underclock fro...recertified PNY Nvidia GTX 470
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self-made (7.8 WEI base score)
OS
Windows 7 Professional x64
CPU
Intel Core i7-2700K Sandy Bridge @5.0Ghz ~1.3661-1.5Vcore
Motherboard
ASUS Maximus IV Gene-Z mATX Intel Z68
Memory
G.Skill 2x4GB @ 1866Mhz CL-11 (underclock from XMP)
Graphics Card(s)
recertified PNY Nvidia GTX 470
Sound Card
SupremeFX X-Fi 2
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung PX2370
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
RAID0=2x OCZ Vertex III (SATA6Gb/s) 120GB SSDs,
Western Digital Green 2TB HDD
PSU
900W Antec High Current Gamer (Intake from bottom)
Case
Rosewill ARMOR(Fans=2 top, 1 front, 1 MB tray, 1 side panel)
Cooling
Corsair H80 Liquid CPU Cooler (pulling in from the back)
Keyboard
Logitech G15
Mouse
Logitech basic
Internet Speed
1.67 Mbps Up / 9.8 Mbps Down
Other Info
Hauppauge TV tuner w/remote,
ASUS Blu-Ray burner
Ok I haven't tried anything yet and I apologize for my late responses but I've not been at home, a quick update however I took out all the new hardware and reinstalled my old power supply and video card. My 2tb still BSOD's on boot and the SSD freezes after a few minutes.

EDIT: Ubuntu runs from disk no problem. Looking into resetting cmos right now then I'll run that memory test

( I think ) I Flashed the CMOS - Nothing seems to have happened, still get the same issues.
Is there any point in running the memory test? I'm beginning to accept that my board is ****ed.
 
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