Solved System requirements for NVidia GTX580?

biggles1000

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So, my GT230 is getting to become unbearable in that the performance is miserable for almost every single game. I'm looking to upgrade my graphics card, which in the past is a process which never goes well. I've been looking at the NVidia GeForce 500 series, ending up fixating on the 580, which has the right PCI-e specifications for my motherboard (I really don't want to have to change anything more than the PSU and graphics card), which is PCI-e x16 2.0.
The motherboard specifications are here. If I move the TV tuner card up to the top PCI-e x1 slot, there is enough space for the GTX 580, which takes up the space of two PCI faceplates.
I've always been nervous about GPUs as powerful ones always seem to have crazy unspecified cables that don't connect to anything. Scan says the 580 needs "One 6-pin PCI Express power connector or two available hard disk power connectors and one 8-pin PCI Express power connector or two available 6-pin PCI Express power connectors". As I'll be having to buy a new PSU for the card...

(my current one is 500W and is the wrong size for my case, any cheapish and quiet PSU recommendations for a 14cm deep, 8.5CM tall and 15CM across 600W+ PSU would be great)

... I'm assuming some of the connectors will be these 6 pin and 8 pin things? I'm hoping that none of the connectors it requires are motherboard connectors, as if so I'm probably screwed. So, will a PSU come with the 8-pin/2x HDD and 8-pin/2x6-pin power connectors?

Please don't try and talk me out of the 580, I do have demanding visual needs so its extreme power is necessary - be glad I'm not wanting to go for the extravagant 590 ;)

Thank you
 

My Computer

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Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HP Pavilion p6565uk
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit
CPU
AMD Phenom II X6 1035T @2.6GHz (hexacore) (=15.6GHz)
Motherboard
FOXCONN (2AA9)
Memory
6GB DDR3-1333 (running at 1066)
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA/MSI GeForce GTX 770 (2GB)
Sound Card
Realtek HD Audio (with 5.1 surround sound always on)
Monitor(s) Displays
HP 2311x (secondary-workspace), Sharp LL-T1620-H (primary)
Screen Resolution
1924x1080
Hard Drives
480GB Crucial M500 SSD
1TB internal WD Caviar Black
3TB Seagate Barracude 7200rpm (for media storage)
4TB Seagate Desktop drive (mirrored backup)
2TB Apple AirPort Time Capsule
1TB Seagate FreeAgent Desk
500GB Seagate External Desktop Drive
PSU
XCase Dolphin, 700W
Case
Stock HP one that came with it, mid-size ATX
Cooling
Stock fans, they're fairly quiet.
Keyboard
Microsoft Wireless Keyboard 2000+ HP Media Centre Remote
Mouse
Microsoft Wireless Mouse 2000
Internet Speed
20 Mbps down, 50 Mbps up
Antivirus
MSE
Browser
Chrome Beta
Other Info
Also:
- 13" Apple MacBook Air, 2013, i7 @ 1.7GHz, 8GB DDR3, 256GB SSD
- HP Deskjet 3050A
- Two HP ZV5000 laptops (the better of the two recently broke)
- A Compaq Evo D310 (has 2GB RAM and a 2.53GHz P4 but is curiously extremely slow)
- A desk fan - this weather is warm ;)
- A fair few retro consoles
- Too many cables behind the desk, probably a fire hazard.
The auxiliary power connectors required for the 580 are PCI-E (PCI-Express) ones. As far as I know, they are only used for graphics cards. You need one 6 pin and one 8 pin (usually 6+2, which can be used as either 6 or 8).

If you're getting a new PSU, make sure that it has the PCI-E connectors. It's possible to use adapters to go from a couple of Molex connectors (the sort used on IDE hard drives) to a single 6 pin, but that is best avoided.

If you can get a GTX680, I suggest that you consider that. It's a PCI-E 3.0 card, but It's backwards compatible with the older PCI-E standards. (There are relatively few PCI-E 3 systems out there; they've been in the market only since earlier this year.) The 680 is newer, costs about the same as the 580, has generally better performance, and consumes significantly less power. (That's important to me less for "green" considerations than for having less of a thermal load in the PC's case.)
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
homegrown
OS
Windows 7 Pro X64 SP1
CPU
Intel Core I7-3930k
Motherboard
Asus P9X79 Pro
Memory
16 GB Gskill DDR3-2133
Graphics Card(s)
eVGA GTX680
Sound Card
Creative X-Fi Titanium
Monitor(s) Displays
As PA246Q
Screen Resolution
1920 X 1200
Hard Drives
Corsair Force GT, 120 GB
WDC 1.5TB Caviar Black
PSU
PCP&C Silencer 750 Crossfire
Case
Silverstone FT02
Cooling
Noctua NH-D14
Keyboard
cheap Logitech USB
Mouse
Microsoft Intellimouse Explorer (old optical) USB
Internet Speed
6Mb cable
Other Info
Pioneer BDR-205
Samsung SH-203B
Monsoon 5.1 speakers
If you're getting a new PSU, make sure that it has the PCI-E connectors. It's possible to use adapters to go from a couple of Molex connectors (the sort used on IDE hard drives) to a single 6 pin, but that is best avoided.

...It's a PCI-E 3.0 card, but It's backwards compatible with the older PCI-E standards. (There are relatively few PCI-E 3 systems out there; they've been in the market only since earlier this year.)

1) ah, I see. I've hunted out this PSU which has two 6-pin PCI-e connectors (which seem to have adapters to make them 8-pin if needed)

2) oh... that would explain a lot, I'd assumed that PCI-e 3.0 cards were only compatible with PCI-e 3.0 motherboards :p That 680 does look very tempting... the GeForce site says the 680 just needs two 6-pin "supplementary power connectors", does that mean that that PSU would be perfect for that card?

thank you for the info and knowledge, I never would've realized 3.0 was backwards compatible :)
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HP Pavilion p6565uk
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit
CPU
AMD Phenom II X6 1035T @2.6GHz (hexacore) (=15.6GHz)
Motherboard
FOXCONN (2AA9)
Memory
6GB DDR3-1333 (running at 1066)
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA/MSI GeForce GTX 770 (2GB)
Sound Card
Realtek HD Audio (with 5.1 surround sound always on)
Monitor(s) Displays
HP 2311x (secondary-workspace), Sharp LL-T1620-H (primary)
Screen Resolution
1924x1080
Hard Drives
480GB Crucial M500 SSD
1TB internal WD Caviar Black
3TB Seagate Barracude 7200rpm (for media storage)
4TB Seagate Desktop drive (mirrored backup)
2TB Apple AirPort Time Capsule
1TB Seagate FreeAgent Desk
500GB Seagate External Desktop Drive
PSU
XCase Dolphin, 700W
Case
Stock HP one that came with it, mid-size ATX
Cooling
Stock fans, they're fairly quiet.
Keyboard
Microsoft Wireless Keyboard 2000+ HP Media Centre Remote
Mouse
Microsoft Wireless Mouse 2000
Internet Speed
20 Mbps down, 50 Mbps up
Antivirus
MSE
Browser
Chrome Beta
Other Info
Also:
- 13" Apple MacBook Air, 2013, i7 @ 1.7GHz, 8GB DDR3, 256GB SSD
- HP Deskjet 3050A
- Two HP ZV5000 laptops (the better of the two recently broke)
- A Compaq Evo D310 (has 2GB RAM and a 2.53GHz P4 but is curiously extremely slow)
- A desk fan - this weather is warm ;)
- A fair few retro consoles
- Too many cables behind the desk, probably a fire hazard.
I would stick with a Power Supply from a reputable manufacturer.....I usually recommend Seasonic, Corsair and Antec. Not saying that there aren't other brands out there that are worth buying, but I have experience with those three. The power supply is one of the most important pieces of hardware in a PC.....a bad one can brick a pc/motherboard/gpu/ram in an instant.

Also, anytime you have a choice between an older generation and newer generation piece.......provided they have similar prices......always go with the new generation stuff. The 680 is a beast and is more efficient than the 580. All new power supplies will have 2x6-pin connectors at the very minimum. Most will have 2 x 6-pin and 2 x 6+2-pin(used for 8 pin graphics cards). I would look for a good 650 Watt with 80+ Bronze or better rating.......you might find 750 watt power supplies on sale for a better price though, because in my opinion, they are more popular. I got my Seasonic Fully Modular X750 Gold for $119 on sale, and that is a great value for what you get.

Here is a really good one for around $100.....Newegg.com - CORSAIR Professional Series HX650 650W ATX12V v2.2 / EPS12V 2.91 SLI Ready 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply. Semi-modular, plenty of connectors and 80+ Gold certified!
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Built
OS
Windows 7 Professional 64bit SP1
CPU
Intel Core i5-3570K @ 4.5GHz
Motherboard
Asus Sabertooth Z77
Memory
Corsair Vengeance 16GB (4x4) @1866MHz CL 9-9-9-24 1T
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 750 Ti FTW
Sound Card
Onboard Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2309W
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 830 128GB SSD - OS
(4) Seagate 5TB HDD
(1) Seagate 2TB HDD
PSU
Seasonic X750 80+ Gold Full Modular
Case
Antec Eleven Hundred Super Mid Tower
Cooling
Intel Liquid Cooler
Keyboard
Max Nighthawk X8 Mechanical keyboard
Mouse
Mionix Naos 7000
Internet Speed
50 Mbps Down / 10 Mbps Up
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/Malwarebytes Anti-Malware
Browser
Chrome/Firefox
Other Info
Klipsch ProMedia 2.1's
Asus RT-N66R Wireless Router
If you're getting a new PSU, make sure that it has the PCI-E connectors. It's possible to use adapters to go from a couple of Molex connectors (the sort used on IDE hard drives) to a single 6 pin, but that is best avoided.

...It's a PCI-E 3.0 card, but It's backwards compatible with the older PCI-E standards. (There are relatively few PCI-E 3 systems out there; they've been in the market only since earlier this year.)

1) ah, I see. I've hunted out this PSU which has two 6-pin PCI-e connectors (which seem to have adapters to make them 8-pin if needed)

2) oh... that would explain a lot, I'd assumed that PCI-e 3.0 cards were only compatible with PCI-e 3.0 motherboards :p That 680 does look very tempting... the GeForce site says the 680 just needs two 6-pin "supplementary power connectors", does that mean that that PSU would be perfect for that card?

thank you for the info and knowledge, I never would've realized 3.0 was backwards compatible :)

I'm unfamiliar with AeroCool PSUs. The one that you link to is spec'd at 50A at +12V, which is encouraging. (Crap PSUs generally are quite weak on the current available at +12V. This one is OK.) Incidentally, it has two 6+2 pin PCI-E power connectors, which can be used as either 6 or 8 pin.

The Strike-X 600w doesn't seem to be a real cheapie, but I second the idea of sticking with the generally-regarded-as-reliable brands. I'm not sure which brad to recommend for the UK. Some UK prices seem to be about the same number of pounds as the price in US dollars - seems dear. This one may be a reasonably good deal:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Antec-Bronz...dp_proddesc_0?ie=UTF8&n=340831031&s=computers
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
homegrown
OS
Windows 7 Pro X64 SP1
CPU
Intel Core I7-3930k
Motherboard
Asus P9X79 Pro
Memory
16 GB Gskill DDR3-2133
Graphics Card(s)
eVGA GTX680
Sound Card
Creative X-Fi Titanium
Monitor(s) Displays
As PA246Q
Screen Resolution
1920 X 1200
Hard Drives
Corsair Force GT, 120 GB
WDC 1.5TB Caviar Black
PSU
PCP&C Silencer 750 Crossfire
Case
Silverstone FT02
Cooling
Noctua NH-D14
Keyboard
cheap Logitech USB
Mouse
Microsoft Intellimouse Explorer (old optical) USB
Internet Speed
6Mb cable
Other Info
Pioneer BDR-205
Samsung SH-203B
Monsoon 5.1 speakers
thank you both for the PSU recommendations, I've heard of Antec (for PSUs and cases) and Corsair (only for RAM and SSDs) so yeah, I trust them more than that AeroCool place I found.

1 / 2 final questions then:

1) What does the 80+ and Bronze/Gold stuff mean?

2) bobkn, slightly off-topic but I've always wondered :p , do you know why the middle C in Connecticut silent? As Cincinnati doesn't have silent Cs and it's always confused me.

thanks :)
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HP Pavilion p6565uk
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit
CPU
AMD Phenom II X6 1035T @2.6GHz (hexacore) (=15.6GHz)
Motherboard
FOXCONN (2AA9)
Memory
6GB DDR3-1333 (running at 1066)
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA/MSI GeForce GTX 770 (2GB)
Sound Card
Realtek HD Audio (with 5.1 surround sound always on)
Monitor(s) Displays
HP 2311x (secondary-workspace), Sharp LL-T1620-H (primary)
Screen Resolution
1924x1080
Hard Drives
480GB Crucial M500 SSD
1TB internal WD Caviar Black
3TB Seagate Barracude 7200rpm (for media storage)
4TB Seagate Desktop drive (mirrored backup)
2TB Apple AirPort Time Capsule
1TB Seagate FreeAgent Desk
500GB Seagate External Desktop Drive
PSU
XCase Dolphin, 700W
Case
Stock HP one that came with it, mid-size ATX
Cooling
Stock fans, they're fairly quiet.
Keyboard
Microsoft Wireless Keyboard 2000+ HP Media Centre Remote
Mouse
Microsoft Wireless Mouse 2000
Internet Speed
20 Mbps down, 50 Mbps up
Antivirus
MSE
Browser
Chrome Beta
Other Info
Also:
- 13" Apple MacBook Air, 2013, i7 @ 1.7GHz, 8GB DDR3, 256GB SSD
- HP Deskjet 3050A
- Two HP ZV5000 laptops (the better of the two recently broke)
- A Compaq Evo D310 (has 2GB RAM and a 2.53GHz P4 but is curiously extremely slow)
- A desk fan - this weather is warm ;)
- A fair few retro consoles
- Too many cables behind the desk, probably a fire hazard.
The 80+ Bronze, Silver, Gold, Platinum refers to the different levels of efficiency. How it runs under a very light load, heavy load and how many of the advertised watts it can put out. That's a very generalized explanation, but the best I can do right now as I'm running late for class lol. Do a quick google search for 80+......bronze, silver, gold, etc and I'm sure there is a much better explanation out there. Generally, the higher the rating, the more efficient the power supply(Bronze<Silver<Gold<Platinum)

Kelly
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Built
OS
Windows 7 Professional 64bit SP1
CPU
Intel Core i5-3570K @ 4.5GHz
Motherboard
Asus Sabertooth Z77
Memory
Corsair Vengeance 16GB (4x4) @1866MHz CL 9-9-9-24 1T
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 750 Ti FTW
Sound Card
Onboard Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2309W
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 830 128GB SSD - OS
(4) Seagate 5TB HDD
(1) Seagate 2TB HDD
PSU
Seasonic X750 80+ Gold Full Modular
Case
Antec Eleven Hundred Super Mid Tower
Cooling
Intel Liquid Cooler
Keyboard
Max Nighthawk X8 Mechanical keyboard
Mouse
Mionix Naos 7000
Internet Speed
50 Mbps Down / 10 Mbps Up
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/Malwarebytes Anti-Malware
Browser
Chrome/Firefox
Other Info
Klipsch ProMedia 2.1's
Asus RT-N66R Wireless Router
The 80+ Bronze, Silver, Gold, Platinum refers to the different levels of efficiency. How it runs under a very light load, heavy load and how many of the advertised watts it can put out. That's a very generalized explanation, but the best I can do right now as I'm running late for class lol. Do a quick google search for 80+......bronze, silver, gold, etc and I'm sure there is a much better explanation out there. Generally, the higher the rating, the more efficient the power supply(Bronze<Silver<Gold<Platinum)

Kelly

ah, I see, thank you :D
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HP Pavilion p6565uk
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit
CPU
AMD Phenom II X6 1035T @2.6GHz (hexacore) (=15.6GHz)
Motherboard
FOXCONN (2AA9)
Memory
6GB DDR3-1333 (running at 1066)
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA/MSI GeForce GTX 770 (2GB)
Sound Card
Realtek HD Audio (with 5.1 surround sound always on)
Monitor(s) Displays
HP 2311x (secondary-workspace), Sharp LL-T1620-H (primary)
Screen Resolution
1924x1080
Hard Drives
480GB Crucial M500 SSD
1TB internal WD Caviar Black
3TB Seagate Barracude 7200rpm (for media storage)
4TB Seagate Desktop drive (mirrored backup)
2TB Apple AirPort Time Capsule
1TB Seagate FreeAgent Desk
500GB Seagate External Desktop Drive
PSU
XCase Dolphin, 700W
Case
Stock HP one that came with it, mid-size ATX
Cooling
Stock fans, they're fairly quiet.
Keyboard
Microsoft Wireless Keyboard 2000+ HP Media Centre Remote
Mouse
Microsoft Wireless Mouse 2000
Internet Speed
20 Mbps down, 50 Mbps up
Antivirus
MSE
Browser
Chrome Beta
Other Info
Also:
- 13" Apple MacBook Air, 2013, i7 @ 1.7GHz, 8GB DDR3, 256GB SSD
- HP Deskjet 3050A
- Two HP ZV5000 laptops (the better of the two recently broke)
- A Compaq Evo D310 (has 2GB RAM and a 2.53GHz P4 but is curiously extremely slow)
- A desk fan - this weather is warm ;)
- A fair few retro consoles
- Too many cables behind the desk, probably a fire hazard.
Biggles, I don't know what your budget is? But now you know PCI-e 3.0 is backwards compatible, if you can't stretch to a 680, the 660ti offers slightly better performance than the older 580 and is very reasonably priced. Or the 670 is a fantastic card for a bit more money and both come with more Vram than the older 580.

Paul.
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Professional 64 bit
Biggles, I don't know what your budget is? But now you know PCI-e 3.0 is backwards compatible, if you can't stretch to a 680, the 660ti offers slightly better performance than the older 580 and is very reasonably priced. Or the 670 is a fantastic card for a bit more money and both come with more Vram than the older 580.

Paul.

Ah, thanks for the budget recommendations. Yeah, my budget until the new year is tiny, but I may be able to borrow the money off a rather wealthy friend. I am slightly bemused by the price of the GTX 680 being nearly as much as my definitely higher than mid-range PC :p, so I'll keep the 670 and 660ti at the forefront of my mind if I find that I'd rather have more affordable but still better visual power right now and hold off getting the future-proof 680 until it makes more financial sense as both the 660ti and 670 suit my current PSU so would save upgrading that for the meantime.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HP Pavilion p6565uk
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit
CPU
AMD Phenom II X6 1035T @2.6GHz (hexacore) (=15.6GHz)
Motherboard
FOXCONN (2AA9)
Memory
6GB DDR3-1333 (running at 1066)
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA/MSI GeForce GTX 770 (2GB)
Sound Card
Realtek HD Audio (with 5.1 surround sound always on)
Monitor(s) Displays
HP 2311x (secondary-workspace), Sharp LL-T1620-H (primary)
Screen Resolution
1924x1080
Hard Drives
480GB Crucial M500 SSD
1TB internal WD Caviar Black
3TB Seagate Barracude 7200rpm (for media storage)
4TB Seagate Desktop drive (mirrored backup)
2TB Apple AirPort Time Capsule
1TB Seagate FreeAgent Desk
500GB Seagate External Desktop Drive
PSU
XCase Dolphin, 700W
Case
Stock HP one that came with it, mid-size ATX
Cooling
Stock fans, they're fairly quiet.
Keyboard
Microsoft Wireless Keyboard 2000+ HP Media Centre Remote
Mouse
Microsoft Wireless Mouse 2000
Internet Speed
20 Mbps down, 50 Mbps up
Antivirus
MSE
Browser
Chrome Beta
Other Info
Also:
- 13" Apple MacBook Air, 2013, i7 @ 1.7GHz, 8GB DDR3, 256GB SSD
- HP Deskjet 3050A
- Two HP ZV5000 laptops (the better of the two recently broke)
- A Compaq Evo D310 (has 2GB RAM and a 2.53GHz P4 but is curiously extremely slow)
- A desk fan - this weather is warm ;)
- A fair few retro consoles
- Too many cables behind the desk, probably a fire hazard.
No worries Biggles, hope you get where you want to be soon.


Paul.
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Professional 64 bit
2) bobkn, slightly off-topic but I've always wondered :p , do you know why the middle C in Connecticut silent? As Cincinnati doesn't have silent Cs and it's always confused me. :)

Beats the heck outta me. I'm hardly a native, only been here 11 years. I blame the Brits. (No offense.) I think it's a corruption of an Anglicized version of an American Indian name. (The second "c" was probably not silent, originally.) A number of New England cities (Gloucester, Worcester, Greenwich) are apparently pronounced like their English originals. (Some of the hard core Massachusetts people pronounce Worcester something like wista. They haven't managed to get rid of R completely, but they try.)
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
homegrown
OS
Windows 7 Pro X64 SP1
CPU
Intel Core I7-3930k
Motherboard
Asus P9X79 Pro
Memory
16 GB Gskill DDR3-2133
Graphics Card(s)
eVGA GTX680
Sound Card
Creative X-Fi Titanium
Monitor(s) Displays
As PA246Q
Screen Resolution
1920 X 1200
Hard Drives
Corsair Force GT, 120 GB
WDC 1.5TB Caviar Black
PSU
PCP&C Silencer 750 Crossfire
Case
Silverstone FT02
Cooling
Noctua NH-D14
Keyboard
cheap Logitech USB
Mouse
Microsoft Intellimouse Explorer (old optical) USB
Internet Speed
6Mb cable
Other Info
Pioneer BDR-205
Samsung SH-203B
Monsoon 5.1 speakers
The proper way to say it is Connec-ticut......back in the day, the c wasn't silent. I still hear people say it like that occasionally.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Built
OS
Windows 7 Professional 64bit SP1
CPU
Intel Core i5-3570K @ 4.5GHz
Motherboard
Asus Sabertooth Z77
Memory
Corsair Vengeance 16GB (4x4) @1866MHz CL 9-9-9-24 1T
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 750 Ti FTW
Sound Card
Onboard Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2309W
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 830 128GB SSD - OS
(4) Seagate 5TB HDD
(1) Seagate 2TB HDD
PSU
Seasonic X750 80+ Gold Full Modular
Case
Antec Eleven Hundred Super Mid Tower
Cooling
Intel Liquid Cooler
Keyboard
Max Nighthawk X8 Mechanical keyboard
Mouse
Mionix Naos 7000
Internet Speed
50 Mbps Down / 10 Mbps Up
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/Malwarebytes Anti-Malware
Browser
Chrome/Firefox
Other Info
Klipsch ProMedia 2.1's
Asus RT-N66R Wireless Router
No worries Biggles, hope you get where you want to be soon.


Paul.

thanks :)

...do you know why the middle C in Connecticut silent?...

Beats the heck outta me. I'm hardly a native, only been here 11 years. I blame the Brits. (No offense.) I think it's a corruption of an Anglicized version of an American Indian name. (The second "c" was probably not silent, originally.) A number of New England cities (Gloucester, Worcester, Greenwich) are apparently pronounced like their English originals. (Some of the hard core Massachusetts people pronounce Worcester something like wista. They haven't managed to get rid of R completely, but they try.)

ah, yeah, I think I've heard Gloucester pronounced Gl-oww-chester instead of Gloss-ter...
The proper way to say it is Connec-ticut......back in the day, the c wasn't silent. I still hear people say it like that occasionally.
... interesting, I wonder when the C started slipping out of the word. Well, thank you both for clearing up my age-old query about Connecticut's pronunciation, I've been wondering about it for years and I think your explanations will keep me content now rather than quizzical and confused ;)

Well, I think that's all my on-topic (and off-topic :p) queries solved, so 'thread solved'. Thank you all again for the helpful information and advice :D
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HP Pavilion p6565uk
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit
CPU
AMD Phenom II X6 1035T @2.6GHz (hexacore) (=15.6GHz)
Motherboard
FOXCONN (2AA9)
Memory
6GB DDR3-1333 (running at 1066)
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA/MSI GeForce GTX 770 (2GB)
Sound Card
Realtek HD Audio (with 5.1 surround sound always on)
Monitor(s) Displays
HP 2311x (secondary-workspace), Sharp LL-T1620-H (primary)
Screen Resolution
1924x1080
Hard Drives
480GB Crucial M500 SSD
1TB internal WD Caviar Black
3TB Seagate Barracude 7200rpm (for media storage)
4TB Seagate Desktop drive (mirrored backup)
2TB Apple AirPort Time Capsule
1TB Seagate FreeAgent Desk
500GB Seagate External Desktop Drive
PSU
XCase Dolphin, 700W
Case
Stock HP one that came with it, mid-size ATX
Cooling
Stock fans, they're fairly quiet.
Keyboard
Microsoft Wireless Keyboard 2000+ HP Media Centre Remote
Mouse
Microsoft Wireless Mouse 2000
Internet Speed
20 Mbps down, 50 Mbps up
Antivirus
MSE
Browser
Chrome Beta
Other Info
Also:
- 13" Apple MacBook Air, 2013, i7 @ 1.7GHz, 8GB DDR3, 256GB SSD
- HP Deskjet 3050A
- Two HP ZV5000 laptops (the better of the two recently broke)
- A Compaq Evo D310 (has 2GB RAM and a 2.53GHz P4 but is curiously extremely slow)
- A desk fan - this weather is warm ;)
- A fair few retro consoles
- Too many cables behind the desk, probably a fire hazard.
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