No display when PC turns on. No POST beeps but all fans and drives run

Think Tank

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I'd appreciate some help on this one. I'm a bit stumped as to where to go from here.
I've had my PC for a year. It wouldn't wake up from sleep the other day - just a black screen. So I tried holding the power button. It wouldn't shut off. I had to use the power button on the back of the PSU. Now when I turn on the PC, I get no display, and no POST beeps (made sure the internal speaker was plugged in), but all of the fans work. The drives are spinning up just fine too. I still can't shut it off with the case button no matter how long I hold it in...which seems a little strange.


Tried:
  • Switched the monitor cable from PCIe video card to integrated card. No change.
  • Tested monitor on laptop using the same cable. Checks out.
  • Tested the PSU with a DMM. Checks out.
  • Tested the PSU with a DMM while plugged into MB. Checks out.
    *I realize this could still be bad
  • Breadboarding. No change.
  • Re-seated the ram. No change.
  • Removed the only stick of ram I have. No change.
  • Swapped RAM with the other DIMM slot. No change.
  • Removed the HDD, DVD, audio, and KB & mouse. No change.
  • Inspected the motherboard for blown caps. Appears OK.
  • Removed the battery for ten minutes with the psu unplugged. No change.
  • Cleared the CMOS with a jumper pins for 10+ seconds...twice. No change.
  • Examined the heat sink compound and CPU pins. Checks out.

Throughout all of this I never got any beeps or display.

Haven't tried:
  • Using a different ram stick - don't have an extra.
  • Using a different PSU - waiting for a friend to let me borrow his on Friday.
  • Using a different CPU - don't know anyone with an AM3+ socket.
Specs:
Ultra LS 550 PSU
Transcend Information 8GB DDR3 1333
AMD FX-4170 CPU
ASRock 960GM/US3S Motherboard

Yes I realize this isn't a quality build in the slightest - but because all the pieces are in the same range of quality, I'm not sure what to suspect. I know the PSU isn't great, but what makes RAM any more or less of a culprit? Kindly don't knock my build too badly - I'm a college student on a budget. :o
 
Last edited:

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You forgot speakers, man. I've got those too! I've had these babies since windows 98!
TT mate have you tried a memtest a you only have one stick?? might be as simple as that mate as you seem to have covered most other stuff http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/105647-ram-test-memtest86.html

You need to run it for at least 8 passes unless errors start straight away. Try the stick in different slots too- the testing is going to take you a long time unless like I said the errors start to come up fairly quickly.
 

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*tested the psu while plugged into MB. checks out.
**I realize this could still be bad**


You might also check if the power supply has gone bad. Do you have another one, that's a bit stonger?
 

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@ICit2lol
I'm afraid I can't run the memtest as the machine won't display a thing. I know it's not just a display issue because I've tried both integrated, and aftermarket GPU's. Not to mention, the CPU won't even get warm when I turn it on so that tells me it's more than just a display problem. I don't have another desktop to swap the RAM module with and run the memtest with either. I did however run memtest86 a couple months ago overnight with no errors. Not that that means anything now.

@Jacee & ICit2lol
I'm afraid I don't have another PSU. But I will be borrowing one from a friend here soon to test it out with. What I did try though, was testing each pin from the PSU with a DMM (digital multimeter) while it was plugged in and turned on for any dead wires. The reason I did it plugged in was that it would be under load and be a more effective test.

Thank you for your feedback.
 

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PC/Desktop
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Custom Build
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Windows 7 Home Premium
CPU
AMD FX-4170 4.2GHz
Motherboard
ASRock 960GM/U3S3 FX
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8GB Transcend Information DDR3 1333MHz PC3-10600
Graphics Card(s)
NVidia GTX 650-Ti 2Gb (Zotac Amp Edition)
Sound Card
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Yup, I've got one of those.
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Logitec M510
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50Mph. I mean Mbps.
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Avast
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You forgot speakers, man. I've got those too! I've had these babies since windows 98!
The lack of POST code beeps would make me look at the motherboard. A MB without cpu, ram and gpu should at least give you POST code beeps. Most bios well check cpu, memory, gpu then look for the OS. Your MB has "Instant Boot" could that have something to do with it?

Try resetting cmos and load system defaults in bios.
 

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Hi there
Remove everything except keyboard . Remove the mouse too. By EVERYTHING I mean EVERYTHING except the keyboard , MONITOR and obviously the CPU. Remove external graphic card if the mobo has a on board graphics. Remove also the memory sticks. By remove I mean just disconnect from the mobo.

Using the onboard graphics (if it exists) will give you a display if the external graphics card has gone defective.

Check of course that the CPU is mounted correctly -- normally once you've inserted the CPU into the MOBO you should never need to remove it again -- but if you still get no joy after all these tests then try and take it to somewhere who can check whether the CPU works -- some old fashioned small computer shop might work if your area is lucky enough to have one of these old type "Real Stores" !!.

Ensure also the power led and reset led switches are CONNECTED properly. Check also the monitor is connected PROPERLY too. Loose monitor cables can cause a problem too.

It's more common than you think also for external VIDEO cards to become defective - these can run incredibly hot and do break down -- if the MOBO has also on board video then we need to see if THAT works.

What we are trying to do here is just see if the basic MOBO will give you the BIOS display - even with 0K RAM in it you should get a display.

Report back on this test -- if there's no display here then the MOBO or Monitor is defective. It's rare that a monitor will become 100% defective but not impossible. I've assumed you've already ascertained that the monitor is OK.

If you DO get a BIOS display start replacing components one at a time

Connect external graphic card again (if you are using one) BEFORE the RAM.

If at any time the BIOS display fails again then you've identified the defective component. Re-connect the DATA drives before the OS for the purposes of this test. Once you have the data discs connected BEFORE the OS you should see some sort of message - No OS found - which is fine. Now finally connect your OS drive and if it's OK windows should boot up.

Without specialist tools this is the only way to diagnose the problem -- go right back to the start and eliminate all the components. The fact that FANS work leads me to believe that the PSU probably is NOT defective otherwise nothing would work.

Note also that if the CPU fan works that tends to imply that the CPU is actually working -- most Mobos I've seen where the CPU has gone defective just stay totally inert -- nothing works not even the fans - but that depends though on the design of the MOBO.

Cheers
jimbo
 

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I had the same problem a few weeks ago and basically did as Jimbo45 recommends.

I stripped everything out (and I mean every single little thing), cleaned and checked all the various bits and pieces, and re-assembled the machine.

It suddenly started working again and I have absolutely no idea why. I'm old enough to know not to ask questions - just accept that things sometime happen for no apparent reason.....:shock:
 

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IIyama ProLite E2208HDS
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600 watt
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Standard
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MS wireless 6000
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MS wireless laser 7000
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Not as fast as it should be......
The lack of POST code beeps would make me look at the motherboard. A MB without cpu, ram and gpu should at least give you POST code beeps. Most bios well check cpu, memory, gpu then look for the OS. Your MB has "Instant Boot" could that have something to do with it?

Try resetting cmos and load system defaults in bios.

I have removed the CPU, RAM, and GPU (still has an integrated GPU) and still no beeps. I've removed the battery to clear any CMOS settings, as well as moved the jumper pin to clear the CMOS as per the MB manual. I can't access the BIOS settings as there is no video.

Hi there
Remove everything except keyboard . Remove the mouse too. By EVERYTHING I mean EVERYTHING except the keyboard , MONITOR and obviously the CPU. Remove external graphic card if the mobo has a on board graphics. Remove also the memory sticks. By remove I mean just disconnect from the mobo.
I have done as you instructed. There is no change.
Check of course that the CPU is mounted correctly -- normally once you've inserted the CPU into the MOBO you should never need to remove it again...
I examined the cpu for pin problems and thermal paste issues. Everything looked good.
Ensure also the power led and reset led switches are CONNECTED properly. Check also the monitor is connected PROPERLY too. Loose monitor cables can cause a problem too.
Power, reset, and HDD LED are connected properly. In regards to the loose monitor cable, I see what you mean. But that wouldn't affect the absence of POST beeps, right?
It's more common than you think also for external VIDEO cards to become defective - these can run incredibly hot and do break down -- if the MOBO has also on board video then we need to see if THAT works.

What we are trying to do here is just see if the basic MOBO will give you the BIOS display - even with 0K RAM in it you should get a display.
I've switched to the onboard VGA port and back, and still nothing.
Report back on this test -- if there's no display here then the MOBO or Monitor is defective. It's rare that a monitor will become 100% defective but not impossible. I've assumed you've already ascertained that the monitor is OK.
I've tested the monitor on a laptop using the same cable. Works great!
The fact that FANS work leads me to believe that the PSU probably is NOT defective otherwise nothing would work.

Note also that if the CPU fan works that tends to imply that the CPU is actually working -- most Mobos I've seen where the CPU has gone defective just stay totally inert -- nothing works not even the fans - but that depends though on the design of the MOBO.
Interesting.


On another note, I've dabbled in OCing.
A few months ago I tried OCing the CPU and RAM without adjusting the voltage, but reverted it back to stock after a couple of days.
I kept the onboard GPU OC'd for several months, without adjusting the voltage. It has been reverted since.
I SLIGHTLY overvolted the aftermarket GPU to prevent stability problems I was having. This is the only OC that I've not reverted to stock.
 

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Windows 7 Home PremiumAMD FX-4170 4.2GHz8GB Transcend Information DDR3 1333MHz PC3-10600NVidia GTX 650-Ti 2Gb (Zotac Amp Edition)
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium
CPU
AMD FX-4170 4.2GHz
Motherboard
ASRock 960GM/U3S3 FX
Memory
8GB Transcend Information DDR3 1333MHz PC3-10600
Graphics Card(s)
NVidia GTX 650-Ti 2Gb (Zotac Amp Edition)
Sound Card
Integrated
Monitor(s) Displays
Yup, I've got one of those.
Screen Resolution
I'm not into resolutions. I always break them.
Hard Drives
SG 1.5TB
WDC 1TB (Backup)
PSU
550W
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Mini ATX
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Fan
Keyboard
Cheap
Mouse
Logitec M510
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50Mph. I mean Mbps.
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Avast
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Firefox
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You forgot speakers, man. I've got those too! I've had these babies since windows 98!
I had the same problem a few weeks ago...I stripped everything out (and I mean every single little thing), cleaned and checked all the various bits and pieces, and re-assembled the machine.
It suddenly started working again and I have absolutely no idea why.


Haha! I was hoping for that outcome too! But this is day 3, and I'm losing my optimism. :cry:
 

My Computer My Computer

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Windows 7 Home PremiumAMD FX-4170 4.2GHz8GB Transcend Information DDR3 1333MHz PC3-10600NVidia GTX 650-Ti 2Gb (Zotac Amp Edition)
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium
CPU
AMD FX-4170 4.2GHz
Motherboard
ASRock 960GM/U3S3 FX
Memory
8GB Transcend Information DDR3 1333MHz PC3-10600
Graphics Card(s)
NVidia GTX 650-Ti 2Gb (Zotac Amp Edition)
Sound Card
Integrated
Monitor(s) Displays
Yup, I've got one of those.
Screen Resolution
I'm not into resolutions. I always break them.
Hard Drives
SG 1.5TB
WDC 1TB (Backup)
PSU
550W
Case
Mini ATX
Cooling
Fan
Keyboard
Cheap
Mouse
Logitec M510
Internet Speed
50Mph. I mean Mbps.
Antivirus
Avast
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
You forgot speakers, man. I've got those too! I've had these babies since windows 98!
Hmm surprised Jimbos post didn't do something. maybe you have cooked the GPU and perhaps a few more things or even drawn too much from the PSU - correct volts does not mean correct current as I think I might have mentioned before.

Think of it like a car with a battery that has 13.8v (normal) and does not have enough "charge" -amps (current) to crank the engine or if it does the current used by the starter motor sucks all the power leaving very little or none for the ignition system etc
 

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Desk1 8GB (1866) / Desk2 16GB (1333) / Laptop 8Gb DDR3
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Desk 1& 2NVidia GTX 650 & Laptops on board Intel
Sound Card
Desk 1 & 2 -XONAR DG Realtek High Def audio Laptop
Monitor(s) Displays
Desk 1 Benq HD 2450 / Desk2 Philips 24" / Laptop 17.5"
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 D1 & D2 & Laptop 1
Hard Drives
Desk1 Samsung 120GB 830 SSD
Asus ROG 256GB 850 Pro SSD
Desk2 Samsung 840 256 SSD
Toshiba 120GB EVO
PSU
Desk 1 Corsair HX 1050/ Laptop ? / Desk 2 Corsair HX 650
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Desk 1 Cooler HAF XM ? Toshiba laptop / Desk2 Coolermaster
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Fans on all Desk1 -2 Desk2 - all Coolermasters 5 Laptop ?
Keyboard
Desk 1 MS Sidewinder X6 Desk 2 MS Sidewinder X 4
Mouse
Desk 1&2 - Gigabyte MS 900 gamer - laptop - Logitec wireless
Internet Speed
ADSL2+
Other Info
One other Desktop (tester) and spare Toshba laptop both with SSD's
Running Kaspersky 2016 ISS on all machines config'd identically
Logitec audio stereo systems on each machine (x3)
Canon MG5250MFC
Router/modem TP-Link running WPA2SK
Sounds to me like the motherboard's nailed.
 

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Hi there
This is now about 99.99% certain that it's time for a new MOBO I'm afraid. If you can get the CPU checked somewhere else just to make certain it's not the CPU.

Defective MOBOS are actually quite rare (with normal use) but they can break --especially when you do a lot of hardware changes --sometimes you can get microscopic breaks in the connections which are almost invisible to the naked eye.

CPU's are hardier than you think unless they overheat --and had that happened I'm sure you would already have noticed.

One final test -- sometimes you can get an invisible short circuit. Take the MOBO out of the case and place it on top of several sheets of newspaper on top of your (non metallic) desk - if you do it carefully you won't have to remove the CPU or PSU connections. Keep the POWER and RESET LED connectors connected and try again. Have everything else disconnected (except the Minitor of course) - including any of those USB2 connectors with 4 POST / STATUS lights on them if they exist and even the keyboard -- use Power on and RESET switch to attempt to boot as you won't have a keyboard for CTRL-ALT-DELETE or ESC or be able to enter BIOS commands. All we are trying is to get some sort of display from the BIOS.

Note you often need to BOTH POWER ON and THEN Press the RESET switch when powering on the BIOS sometimes.

If still no joy then you'll have to assume a broken MOBO or CPU -- your guess as to which but I'd probably suspect the MOBO.

So time to get a new MOBO I'm afraid.

Cheers
jimbo
 

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8GB, 16GB
Graphics Card(s)
On Motherboard
Sound Card
Realtek HD audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Apple Cinema display, Samsung LCD
Screen Resolution
1920 X 1080
Hard Drives
4 X 1TB SATA
Mouse
Toshiba wireless laser
Internet Speed
> 20MB up
You could also take the power supply to a small shop for testing. To me it smells like a power supply. The power supply you have is not one of quality.
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pr...Intel i7-6800K @ 4.3Corsair Platinum 16 gig @2400EVGA GTX 1070 OC
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home made Desktop
OS
Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pro/64
CPU
Intel i7-6800K @ 4.3
Motherboard
ASUS X-99 Deluxe II
Memory
Corsair Platinum 16 gig @2400
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 OC
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus 27" LED LCD/VE278Q
Screen Resolution
1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI
Hard Drives
INTEL SSD 730-240 Gb Sata 3.0/
PSU
EVGA Platium 1200W
Case
Phanteks Luxe Tempered Glass 8 fans/ one radiator
Cooling
XSPC/ Water Cooled CPU
Keyboard
Das 4 Professional
Mouse
Logitech M705/MX Anywhere 2-S
Internet Speed
100 mbits
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/ Malwarebytes Premium 3.0/ SAS
Browser
I.E. 11 default/Firefox/ ISP Time Warner Cable/Spectrum
Other Info
LG BluRay Burner/
Sound system-KLipsch-THX/
Icy Dock ssd Hot Swap bays.
Hmm surprised Jimbos post didn't do something. maybe you have cooked the GPU and perhaps a few more things or even drawn too much from the PSU - correct volts does not mean correct current as I think I might have mentioned before.

In regards to the GPU, I doubt it's fried. As mentioned in the original post, I have tested both the onboard, and aftermarket GPU's. As for the PSU, I borrowed one from a friend today and no change.

Sounds to me like the motherboard's nailed.
I suspect you're right.

Hi there
This is now about 99.99% certain that it's time for a new MOBO I'm afraid. If you can get the CPU checked somewhere else just to make certain it's not the CPU.

One final test -- sometimes you can get an invisible short circuit. Take the MOBO out of the case and place it on top of several sheets of newspaper on top of your (non metallic) desk - if you do it carefully you won't have to remove the CPU or PSU connections.
Indeed - if you read the original post, I mentioned breadboarding it.
Note you often need to BOTH POWER ON and THEN Press the RESET switch when powering on the BIOS sometimes.

If still no joy then you'll have to assume a broken MOBO or CPU -- your guess as to which but I'd probably suspect the MOBO.

So time to get a new MOBO I'm afraid.

Cheers
jimbo

Sounds about right to me. Thank you for your help.

You could also take the power supply to a small shop for testing. To me it smells like a power supply. The power supply you have is not one of quality.

PSU is fine. I borrowed one from a friend and it's doing the same thing. What makes you say it's not one of quality? I realize it's no Corsair, but I have yet to find a negative review of the company, or of their PSU's as a collective whole.
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 7 Home PremiumAMD FX-4170 4.2GHz8GB Transcend Information DDR3 1333MHz PC3-10600NVidia GTX 650-Ti 2Gb (Zotac Amp Edition)
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium
CPU
AMD FX-4170 4.2GHz
Motherboard
ASRock 960GM/U3S3 FX
Memory
8GB Transcend Information DDR3 1333MHz PC3-10600
Graphics Card(s)
NVidia GTX 650-Ti 2Gb (Zotac Amp Edition)
Sound Card
Integrated
Monitor(s) Displays
Yup, I've got one of those.
Screen Resolution
I'm not into resolutions. I always break them.
Hard Drives
SG 1.5TB
WDC 1TB (Backup)
PSU
550W
Case
Mini ATX
Cooling
Fan
Keyboard
Cheap
Mouse
Logitec M510
Internet Speed
50Mph. I mean Mbps.
Antivirus
Avast
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
You forgot speakers, man. I've got those too! I've had these babies since windows 98!
To all:
Kindly read the original post before making suggestions. There have been several suggestions that I already tried and was clear about in the original post. Thank you. I am also an electrical engineering student, so I'm quite aware of the workings of certain components such as PSU's, etc, but in this malfunction, I'm at a loss. I've been building my own systems for over ten years. But I've never had this happen.
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 7 Home PremiumAMD FX-4170 4.2GHz8GB Transcend Information DDR3 1333MHz PC3-10600NVidia GTX 650-Ti 2Gb (Zotac Amp Edition)
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium
CPU
AMD FX-4170 4.2GHz
Motherboard
ASRock 960GM/U3S3 FX
Memory
8GB Transcend Information DDR3 1333MHz PC3-10600
Graphics Card(s)
NVidia GTX 650-Ti 2Gb (Zotac Amp Edition)
Sound Card
Integrated
Monitor(s) Displays
Yup, I've got one of those.
Screen Resolution
I'm not into resolutions. I always break them.
Hard Drives
SG 1.5TB
WDC 1TB (Backup)
PSU
550W
Case
Mini ATX
Cooling
Fan
Keyboard
Cheap
Mouse
Logitec M510
Internet Speed
50Mph. I mean Mbps.
Antivirus
Avast
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
You forgot speakers, man. I've got those too! I've had these babies since windows 98!
Think Tank I'm very sorry I did look up the wrong power supply. Ultra are rated very good and priced right.
Please inform us what your next step is.
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pr...Intel i7-6800K @ 4.3Corsair Platinum 16 gig @2400EVGA GTX 1070 OC
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home made Desktop
OS
Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pro/64
CPU
Intel i7-6800K @ 4.3
Motherboard
ASUS X-99 Deluxe II
Memory
Corsair Platinum 16 gig @2400
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 OC
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus 27" LED LCD/VE278Q
Screen Resolution
1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI
Hard Drives
INTEL SSD 730-240 Gb Sata 3.0/
PSU
EVGA Platium 1200W
Case
Phanteks Luxe Tempered Glass 8 fans/ one radiator
Cooling
XSPC/ Water Cooled CPU
Keyboard
Das 4 Professional
Mouse
Logitech M705/MX Anywhere 2-S
Internet Speed
100 mbits
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/ Malwarebytes Premium 3.0/ SAS
Browser
I.E. 11 default/Firefox/ ISP Time Warner Cable/Spectrum
Other Info
LG BluRay Burner/
Sound system-KLipsch-THX/
Icy Dock ssd Hot Swap bays.
Corsair PSUs fail like everything else, I've just had an HX520 die after 6yrs. My bet is your BIOS is dead. It may be possible to coax it back into life, have a good read of the motherboard manual, but it probably means a new motherboard.
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 7
OS
Windows 7
To all:
Kindly read the original post before making suggestions. There have been several suggestions that I already tried and was clear about in the original post. Thank you. I am also an electrical engineering student, so I'm quite aware of the workings of certain components such as PSU's, etc, but in this malfunction, I'm at a loss. I've been building my own systems for over ten years. But I've never had this happen.
Yep we appreciate you have the knowledge mate but are just suggesting things as we are not assuming here we know any more than you.
Now back to that PSU have you checked the Power_Good signal at pin 8 (grey cable) on the 24 pin plug when powering up see the reference to it in this link - page 2 (Voltage rails)
Power Supply 101: A Reference Of Specifications - Power Supplies
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Desk1 7 Home Prem / Desk2 10 Pro / Main lap A...Desk1 i5 3750K / Laptop i7 GTX 860M / Desk2 i...Desk1 8GB (1866) / Desk2 16GB (1333) / Laptop...Desk 1& 2NVidia GTX 650 & Laptops on board Intel
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Own build (new) Desk1 / Asus ROG Win 7 / Desk2 1st build
OS
Desk1 7 Home Prem / Desk2 10 Pro / Main lap Asus ROG 10 Pro 2 laptop Toshiba 7 Pro Asus P2520 7 & 10
CPU
Desk1 i5 3750K / Laptop i7 GTX 860M / Desk2 i5 2500
Motherboard
Desk1 Asus P877-V / Desk2 Gigabyte H67 UD3H / Laptop ?
Memory
Desk1 8GB (1866) / Desk2 16GB (1333) / Laptop 8Gb DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
Desk 1& 2NVidia GTX 650 & Laptops on board Intel
Sound Card
Desk 1 & 2 -XONAR DG Realtek High Def audio Laptop
Monitor(s) Displays
Desk 1 Benq HD 2450 / Desk2 Philips 24" / Laptop 17.5"
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 D1 & D2 & Laptop 1
Hard Drives
Desk1 Samsung 120GB 830 SSD
Asus ROG 256GB 850 Pro SSD
Desk2 Samsung 840 256 SSD
Toshiba 120GB EVO
PSU
Desk 1 Corsair HX 1050/ Laptop ? / Desk 2 Corsair HX 650
Case
Desk 1 Cooler HAF XM ? Toshiba laptop / Desk2 Coolermaster
Cooling
Fans on all Desk1 -2 Desk2 - all Coolermasters 5 Laptop ?
Keyboard
Desk 1 MS Sidewinder X6 Desk 2 MS Sidewinder X 4
Mouse
Desk 1&2 - Gigabyte MS 900 gamer - laptop - Logitec wireless
Internet Speed
ADSL2+
Other Info
One other Desktop (tester) and spare Toshba laptop both with SSD's
Running Kaspersky 2016 ISS on all machines config'd identically
Logitec audio stereo systems on each machine (x3)
Canon MG5250MFC
Router/modem TP-Link running WPA2SK
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