Program to monitor Power Supply

radman3d

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I am starting to think I may have a power supply issue and none of the programs I use seem to monitor it correctly or the power supply is bad. I have been using TOverclocker (came with my Biostar MB), Speccy, Everest, HWinfo64, HWinfo32 and SpeedFan. None of these give me consistent measurements or measure the voltages wrong from opening the program. Is there a monitor program out there that is very good at measuring power supply voltages. My MB is a Biostar TZ68A+. Thanks in advance for the help.
 

My Computer My Computer

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Windows 7 64 Homei5 2500k2 X 8 GB 2133ATI HD 6570
OS
Windows 7 64 Home
CPU
i5 2500k
Motherboard
Biostar TZ68A+
Memory
2 X 8 GB 2133
Graphics Card(s)
ATI HD 6570
Sound Card
ASUS Zonar DG
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung 23"
Hard Drives
2 500 GB Seagate SATA 300 Raid 0
PSU
750 Watt Corsair
What symptoms are you having that you think may be related to a PSU issue?

The best way to measure voltages is not with a software program, but rather with a digital multimeter (set to DC volts on the 20V range or automatic) and using a technique called backprobing whereby the probes are inserted into the back of the power connectors so that they make contact with the wires inside. The only software that I would trust on voltage readings is the hardware monitoring in the BIOS (and even then I would take the digital multimeter reading as being the definitive). This is because software that provides this function takes its readings from the on-board sensors and then applies a predetermined offset which gives you the final output reading. Unfortunately, if the incorrect offset is used, it can lead to cases where a voltage is displayed as being out of tolerance whereas the same voltage tested directly is well within the limits.

Certainly, don't stop using these programs if you wish, but remember that the readings that they give should be treated as a guide and that if you have any undue concerns about any of the readings you should confirm (or otherwise) them with a digital multimeter as described above.
 

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Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dwarf Dwf/11/2012 r09/2013
OS
Windows 8.1 Pro RTM x64
CPU
Intel Core-i5-3570K 4-core @ 3.4GHz (Ivy Bridge) (OC 4.4GHz)
Motherboard
ASRock Z77 Extreme4-M
Memory
4 x 4GB DDR3-1600 Corsair Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B (16GB)
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GeForce GTX770 Gaming OC 2GB
Sound Card
Realtek High Definition on board solution (ALC 898)
Monitor(s) Displays
ViewSonic VA1912w Widescreen (VGA)
Screen Resolution
1440x900
Hard Drives
OCZ Agility 3 SSD 120GB SATA III x2 (RAID 0)
Samsung HD501LJ 500GB SATA II x2
Hitachi HDS721010CLA332 1TB SATA II
Iomega 1.5TB Ext USB 2.0
WD 2.0TB Ext USB 3.0
PSU
XFX Pro Series 850W Semi-Modular
Case
Gigabyte IF233
Cooling
1 x 120mm Front Inlet 1 x 120mm Rear Exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft Comfort Curve Keyboard 3000 (USB)
Mouse
Microsoft Comfort Mouse 3000 for Business (USB)
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NetGear DG834Gv3 ADSL Modem/Router (Ethernet) ~4.0 Mb/s (O2)
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Avast! 8.0.1497
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Asus Eee PC 1011PX Netbook (Windows 7 x86 Starter)
Try looking in the BIOS and make sure what is shown there is what you want. Most software programs are only reading from the onboard sensors when and if they exist.
 

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Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Built
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Windows 10 Pro x64, Windows 8.1 Pro x64, Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1,
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INTEL i9-7920X LGA 2066
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Gigabyte X299-WU8 F3
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64 GB (4 X 16 GB) G-Skill V Series DDR4 3200 Quad Channel
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EVGA GTX 1060 SC 3 GB
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Realtek Onboard ALC1220
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2 x Samsung S27E310
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Samsung 2 x 970 EVO Plus 500 GB NVMe
1 x 6TB WD 6003FZBX SATA
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12 x 3TB WD 30EFRX SATA
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Seasonic X-1050
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Thermaltake Armor+
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Corsair H80i V2 Liquid AOI Cooler
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Logitech G510s
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Logitech MX Master 2S
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200 Mb/s
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ESET NOD32 13.1
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EDGE (Dev, Canary, Beta), Chrome
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ASUS RT-AC68U router
Malwarebytes 4.0.4
The monitor program TOverclocker measures 12 volts fine until it is under load for a long time, the min will show it got down to 3.6 volts at some point. I would like to try another good HW monitor program to compare. I looked at the Bios and the voltages are fine there and I checked the PS with a PS tester and that is fine too. It is under load that I think the PS is having issues.
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 7 64 Homei5 2500k2 X 8 GB 2133ATI HD 6570
OS
Windows 7 64 Home
CPU
i5 2500k
Motherboard
Biostar TZ68A+
Memory
2 X 8 GB 2133
Graphics Card(s)
ATI HD 6570
Sound Card
ASUS Zonar DG
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung 23"
Hard Drives
2 500 GB Seagate SATA 300 Raid 0
PSU
750 Watt Corsair
Your PSU is from a respectable manufacturer, Corsair, so I wonder if it is actually something else causing the problem. However, we shouldn't totally eliminate it. What model number is it?

It is more likely to be a faulty sensor, or one that is susceptible to changes in temperatures (which would explain why you suspect that you're having these problems under load). Although the BIOS reads its values from sensors, they are not necessarily the same ones that software programs access. However, remember that whilst in the hardware monitoring tab of the BIOS, your system is not under the same load as when the OS is loaded and running.

This is one of those cases where I would definitely recommend the use of a digital multimeter. The voltage reading you quote (3.6V on the 12V line) is simply far too low to allow the computer to remain operating (i.e. I would expect it to cause it to power off). Are you sure this is the 12V line, and not either of the 5V or 3.3V lines?
 

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Windows 8.1 Pro RTM x64Intel Core-i5-3570K 4-core @ 3.4GHz (Ivy Brid...4 x 4GB DDR3-1600 Corsair Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2...MSI GeForce GTX770 Gaming OC 2GB
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dwarf Dwf/11/2012 r09/2013
OS
Windows 8.1 Pro RTM x64
CPU
Intel Core-i5-3570K 4-core @ 3.4GHz (Ivy Bridge) (OC 4.4GHz)
Motherboard
ASRock Z77 Extreme4-M
Memory
4 x 4GB DDR3-1600 Corsair Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B (16GB)
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GeForce GTX770 Gaming OC 2GB
Sound Card
Realtek High Definition on board solution (ALC 898)
Monitor(s) Displays
ViewSonic VA1912w Widescreen (VGA)
Screen Resolution
1440x900
Hard Drives
OCZ Agility 3 SSD 120GB SATA III x2 (RAID 0)
Samsung HD501LJ 500GB SATA II x2
Hitachi HDS721010CLA332 1TB SATA II
Iomega 1.5TB Ext USB 2.0
WD 2.0TB Ext USB 3.0
PSU
XFX Pro Series 850W Semi-Modular
Case
Gigabyte IF233
Cooling
1 x 120mm Front Inlet 1 x 120mm Rear Exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft Comfort Curve Keyboard 3000 (USB)
Mouse
Microsoft Comfort Mouse 3000 for Business (USB)
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NetGear DG834Gv3 ADSL Modem/Router (Ethernet) ~4.0 Mb/s (O2)
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Avast! 8.0.1497
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IE 11
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Optical Drive: HL-DT-ST BD-RE BH10LS30 SATA Bluray
Lexmark S305 Printer/Scanner/Copier (USB)
WEI Score: 8.1/8.1/8.5/8.5/8.25
Asus Eee PC 1011PX Netbook (Windows 7 x86 Starter)
CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX750 V2 750W ATX12V v2.31/ EPS12V v2.92 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC High Performance Power Supply


I'm not so sure it is the PSU either, but it does bother me that the voltage drops to 3.6 volts under load. I would think if it really did this it would crash the system. I noticed the other day for the first time that all voltages under TOverclocker will show a low Min at some point during load testing under Prime95. The 12 volts had always done this and now I seem to have all voltages doing it. The system does not reboot or crash, but I did have a BSOD the other day and I think it was my O/C, I have removed the O/C for now.
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 7 64 Homei5 2500k2 X 8 GB 2133ATI HD 6570
OS
Windows 7 64 Home
CPU
i5 2500k
Motherboard
Biostar TZ68A+
Memory
2 X 8 GB 2133
Graphics Card(s)
ATI HD 6570
Sound Card
ASUS Zonar DG
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung 23"
Hard Drives
2 500 GB Seagate SATA 300 Raid 0
PSU
750 Watt Corsair
Good call on removing your overclock. One of the first things to do when experiencing problems is to set everything back to stock/standard settings. It just eliminates one of the possible causes. The same thing, by the way, also applies if you are underclocking.

Do you have access to a digital multimeter? If so, monitor your voltages with TOverclocker as before and then, when the voltage reading dips, check it using the back-probing technique I mentioned earlier. Depending on the voltage you want to check, connect the probes as follows:

Positive/Red probe:

12V - Yellow
5V - Red
3.3V - Orange

Negative/Black probe: Black.

Note that it shouldn't matter which particular wire you choose to probe, but if you want to test multiple (or even all) combinations then feel free to do so.
 

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Windows 8.1 Pro RTM x64Intel Core-i5-3570K 4-core @ 3.4GHz (Ivy Brid...4 x 4GB DDR3-1600 Corsair Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2...MSI GeForce GTX770 Gaming OC 2GB
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dwarf Dwf/11/2012 r09/2013
OS
Windows 8.1 Pro RTM x64
CPU
Intel Core-i5-3570K 4-core @ 3.4GHz (Ivy Bridge) (OC 4.4GHz)
Motherboard
ASRock Z77 Extreme4-M
Memory
4 x 4GB DDR3-1600 Corsair Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B (16GB)
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GeForce GTX770 Gaming OC 2GB
Sound Card
Realtek High Definition on board solution (ALC 898)
Monitor(s) Displays
ViewSonic VA1912w Widescreen (VGA)
Screen Resolution
1440x900
Hard Drives
OCZ Agility 3 SSD 120GB SATA III x2 (RAID 0)
Samsung HD501LJ 500GB SATA II x2
Hitachi HDS721010CLA332 1TB SATA II
Iomega 1.5TB Ext USB 2.0
WD 2.0TB Ext USB 3.0
PSU
XFX Pro Series 850W Semi-Modular
Case
Gigabyte IF233
Cooling
1 x 120mm Front Inlet 1 x 120mm Rear Exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft Comfort Curve Keyboard 3000 (USB)
Mouse
Microsoft Comfort Mouse 3000 for Business (USB)
Internet Speed
NetGear DG834Gv3 ADSL Modem/Router (Ethernet) ~4.0 Mb/s (O2)
Antivirus
Avast! 8.0.1497
Browser
IE 11
Other Info
Optical Drive: HL-DT-ST BD-RE BH10LS30 SATA Bluray
Lexmark S305 Printer/Scanner/Copier (USB)
WEI Score: 8.1/8.1/8.5/8.5/8.25
Asus Eee PC 1011PX Netbook (Windows 7 x86 Starter)
OK, cool I will try that. In the mean time what is the best monitor program you can suggest?
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 7 64 Homei5 2500k2 X 8 GB 2133ATI HD 6570
OS
Windows 7 64 Home
CPU
i5 2500k
Motherboard
Biostar TZ68A+
Memory
2 X 8 GB 2133
Graphics Card(s)
ATI HD 6570
Sound Card
ASUS Zonar DG
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung 23"
Hard Drives
2 500 GB Seagate SATA 300 Raid 0
PSU
750 Watt Corsair
Do not open up your PSU to do any checking. It can kill you even with the power disconnected.
For most if a PSU is faulty throw it out and buy a new one.
 

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Windows 7x64 Home Premium SP1Intel i7 2600kG.Skill Ripjaws (DDR3-1600) 2x4GBNvidia GeForce GTS 450; Intel HD Graphics 300...
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PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Own build
OS
Windows 7x64 Home Premium SP1
CPU
Intel i7 2600k
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z68 Deluxe
Memory
G.Skill Ripjaws (DDR3-1600) 2x4GB
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia GeForce GTS 450; Intel HD Graphics 3000(GT2+)
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell Ultrasharp IPS panel U2311H, Samsung SyncMaster P2350
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 850 Pro SSD 256GB, Samsung SSD 840 120GB, Seagates 1TB Barracuda ST31000528AS x2
PSU
Seasonic M12II 520W
Case
Lian Li Lancool PC-K60
Cooling
Case: 1x120mm, 3x140mm CPU: Hyper 212+
Keyboard
Logitech MK520 (wireless)
Mouse
Logitech MK520
Internet Speed
6-7 Mbps
Antivirus
Norton Security Premium, Malwarebytes on 2 (MSE on 3rd PC)
Browser
FireFox
Other Info
Audio: Logitech Z523 2.1
You've already tried multiple programs, and they've all given inconsistent results. In that case, the backprobing technique is the one you should use.

Please heed the above warning: NEVER open the PSU itself.
 

My Computer My Computer

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Windows 8.1 Pro RTM x64Intel Core-i5-3570K 4-core @ 3.4GHz (Ivy Brid...4 x 4GB DDR3-1600 Corsair Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2...MSI GeForce GTX770 Gaming OC 2GB
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dwarf Dwf/11/2012 r09/2013
OS
Windows 8.1 Pro RTM x64
CPU
Intel Core-i5-3570K 4-core @ 3.4GHz (Ivy Bridge) (OC 4.4GHz)
Motherboard
ASRock Z77 Extreme4-M
Memory
4 x 4GB DDR3-1600 Corsair Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B (16GB)
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GeForce GTX770 Gaming OC 2GB
Sound Card
Realtek High Definition on board solution (ALC 898)
Monitor(s) Displays
ViewSonic VA1912w Widescreen (VGA)
Screen Resolution
1440x900
Hard Drives
OCZ Agility 3 SSD 120GB SATA III x2 (RAID 0)
Samsung HD501LJ 500GB SATA II x2
Hitachi HDS721010CLA332 1TB SATA II
Iomega 1.5TB Ext USB 2.0
WD 2.0TB Ext USB 3.0
PSU
XFX Pro Series 850W Semi-Modular
Case
Gigabyte IF233
Cooling
1 x 120mm Front Inlet 1 x 120mm Rear Exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft Comfort Curve Keyboard 3000 (USB)
Mouse
Microsoft Comfort Mouse 3000 for Business (USB)
Internet Speed
NetGear DG834Gv3 ADSL Modem/Router (Ethernet) ~4.0 Mb/s (O2)
Antivirus
Avast! 8.0.1497
Browser
IE 11
Other Info
Optical Drive: HL-DT-ST BD-RE BH10LS30 SATA Bluray
Lexmark S305 Printer/Scanner/Copier (USB)
WEI Score: 8.1/8.1/8.5/8.5/8.25
Asus Eee PC 1011PX Netbook (Windows 7 x86 Starter)
There is NO software that will monitor the PSU directly. There are hardware monitors and VOMs to test power supplies. The DC supply voltages (3.3, 5.0 and 12.0) acceptable to motherboards and processors usually have a +/-5% tolerance. Outside of this range could cause problems so the meter you use must be able to read at least down to 1/10 (.1) volts.
 

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Windows 7 Pro-x64i7-2600 3.4GHz - 3.8GHz Turbo8Gb - 2x4GB, Muskin 991770 PC3-1333Integrated Intel HD 2000
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Built 2/11/2011
OS
Windows 7 Pro-x64
CPU
i7-2600 3.4GHz - 3.8GHz Turbo
Motherboard
Intel DH67BL-B3
Memory
8Gb - 2x4GB, Muskin 991770 PC3-1333
Graphics Card(s)
Integrated Intel HD 2000
Sound Card
Integrated Intel 10.1 HD, RealTek ALC892
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus LCD VH222H, Haier HL24XSL2a
Screen Resolution
1920x1080, 1920x1080
Hard Drives
Crucial SSD C300-128Gb,
Western Digital WD5002AALX - 500Gb,
Western Digital WD7501AALS - 750Gb
PSU
Seasonic 650W 80+ Gold Modular
Case
Rosewill Defender
Cooling
Stock CPU, Four 120mm case fans, PCH fan added
Keyboard
Logitech EX100 Y-RBH94 Wireless
Mouse
Logitech EX100 M-RCE95 Wireless
Internet Speed
3.0/1.5 Mbs
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Microsoft Internet Explorer 11
Other Info
Antec Veris Premier-Multimedia IR Station,
Cyber Accoustics-3602 Speakers,
AFT XM-5U Card Reader,
Hauppauge TV-HVR-2250,
Sony LX300 USB Turntable
I measured the voltages while idle and they all were good + or - 10%. When I get time I'm going to measure while under load. Thanks for the info Dwarf the pin outs were spot on. I will let you know what I find under load.
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 7 64 Homei5 2500k2 X 8 GB 2133ATI HD 6570
OS
Windows 7 64 Home
CPU
i5 2500k
Motherboard
Biostar TZ68A+
Memory
2 X 8 GB 2133
Graphics Card(s)
ATI HD 6570
Sound Card
ASUS Zonar DG
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung 23"
Hard Drives
2 500 GB Seagate SATA 300 Raid 0
PSU
750 Watt Corsair
I take it you used a digital multimeter for this. It will be interesting to see what the actual voltage is when TOverclocker is reporting a low value as you reported above.
 

My Computer My Computer

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Windows 8.1 Pro RTM x64Intel Core-i5-3570K 4-core @ 3.4GHz (Ivy Brid...4 x 4GB DDR3-1600 Corsair Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2...MSI GeForce GTX770 Gaming OC 2GB
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dwarf Dwf/11/2012 r09/2013
OS
Windows 8.1 Pro RTM x64
CPU
Intel Core-i5-3570K 4-core @ 3.4GHz (Ivy Bridge) (OC 4.4GHz)
Motherboard
ASRock Z77 Extreme4-M
Memory
4 x 4GB DDR3-1600 Corsair Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B (16GB)
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GeForce GTX770 Gaming OC 2GB
Sound Card
Realtek High Definition on board solution (ALC 898)
Monitor(s) Displays
ViewSonic VA1912w Widescreen (VGA)
Screen Resolution
1440x900
Hard Drives
OCZ Agility 3 SSD 120GB SATA III x2 (RAID 0)
Samsung HD501LJ 500GB SATA II x2
Hitachi HDS721010CLA332 1TB SATA II
Iomega 1.5TB Ext USB 2.0
WD 2.0TB Ext USB 3.0
PSU
XFX Pro Series 850W Semi-Modular
Case
Gigabyte IF233
Cooling
1 x 120mm Front Inlet 1 x 120mm Rear Exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft Comfort Curve Keyboard 3000 (USB)
Mouse
Microsoft Comfort Mouse 3000 for Business (USB)
Internet Speed
NetGear DG834Gv3 ADSL Modem/Router (Ethernet) ~4.0 Mb/s (O2)
Antivirus
Avast! 8.0.1497
Browser
IE 11
Other Info
Optical Drive: HL-DT-ST BD-RE BH10LS30 SATA Bluray
Lexmark S305 Printer/Scanner/Copier (USB)
WEI Score: 8.1/8.1/8.5/8.5/8.25
Asus Eee PC 1011PX Netbook (Windows 7 x86 Starter)
Yes and yes it will. Sorry I did not tell you I have a digital volt meter. I hope the low voltage shows up. It might be too fast for my meter to see it, but I'm going to give it a shot. My PSU has a 5 year warranty and I really would like to verify it.
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 7 64 Homei5 2500k2 X 8 GB 2133ATI HD 6570
OS
Windows 7 64 Home
CPU
i5 2500k
Motherboard
Biostar TZ68A+
Memory
2 X 8 GB 2133
Graphics Card(s)
ATI HD 6570
Sound Card
ASUS Zonar DG
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung 23"
Hard Drives
2 500 GB Seagate SATA 300 Raid 0
PSU
750 Watt Corsair
As has been mentioned above, if your 12V line was indeed falling as low as 3.6V then your system would in all likelihood just abruptly turn off. It doesn't though, which is why I think that there isn't anything wrong with the PSU, rather the on-board sensor(s) is/are faulty.

Don't wait until you get the low voltage reading to connect your meter - you can run the tests with it connected.
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 8.1 Pro RTM x64Intel Core-i5-3570K 4-core @ 3.4GHz (Ivy Brid...4 x 4GB DDR3-1600 Corsair Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2...MSI GeForce GTX770 Gaming OC 2GB
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dwarf Dwf/11/2012 r09/2013
OS
Windows 8.1 Pro RTM x64
CPU
Intel Core-i5-3570K 4-core @ 3.4GHz (Ivy Bridge) (OC 4.4GHz)
Motherboard
ASRock Z77 Extreme4-M
Memory
4 x 4GB DDR3-1600 Corsair Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B (16GB)
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GeForce GTX770 Gaming OC 2GB
Sound Card
Realtek High Definition on board solution (ALC 898)
Monitor(s) Displays
ViewSonic VA1912w Widescreen (VGA)
Screen Resolution
1440x900
Hard Drives
OCZ Agility 3 SSD 120GB SATA III x2 (RAID 0)
Samsung HD501LJ 500GB SATA II x2
Hitachi HDS721010CLA332 1TB SATA II
Iomega 1.5TB Ext USB 2.0
WD 2.0TB Ext USB 3.0
PSU
XFX Pro Series 850W Semi-Modular
Case
Gigabyte IF233
Cooling
1 x 120mm Front Inlet 1 x 120mm Rear Exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft Comfort Curve Keyboard 3000 (USB)
Mouse
Microsoft Comfort Mouse 3000 for Business (USB)
Internet Speed
NetGear DG834Gv3 ADSL Modem/Router (Ethernet) ~4.0 Mb/s (O2)
Antivirus
Avast! 8.0.1497
Browser
IE 11
Other Info
Optical Drive: HL-DT-ST BD-RE BH10LS30 SATA Bluray
Lexmark S305 Printer/Scanner/Copier (USB)
WEI Score: 8.1/8.1/8.5/8.5/8.25
Asus Eee PC 1011PX Netbook (Windows 7 x86 Starter)
I did a two hour load test this morning with IntelBurnTest and FurMark running at the same time. The multimeter stayed between 12.17-12.19 volts the whole time. TOverclocker had a Min of 12.044 and a Max of 12.148. This test was inconclusive and I plan on doing a longer test when I have more time.
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 7 64 Homei5 2500k2 X 8 GB 2133ATI HD 6570
OS
Windows 7 64 Home
CPU
i5 2500k
Motherboard
Biostar TZ68A+
Memory
2 X 8 GB 2133
Graphics Card(s)
ATI HD 6570
Sound Card
ASUS Zonar DG
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung 23"
Hard Drives
2 500 GB Seagate SATA 300 Raid 0
PSU
750 Watt Corsair
Those results look good and stable.

I agree that longer tests are sometimes needed to get problems to manifest themselves (hence the advice you'll often see about allowing Memtest to run overnight).

However, 2hrs is a reasonable period of time for this, and I would be quite happy with the result you got. Should you wish to test further, then you will need to put more load on the 12V line to check if it still remains stable. The two programs you ran are excellent for this, just ensure that you are using the extreme settings in both cases. In addition, if you have a DVD/CD/BD drive, play an audio CD at the same time. Don't worry if the audio is choppy and broken up, you are merely using the drive motor to put a bit more load on the 12V line.

Make sure that you keep an eye on the temperatures, and be prepared to stop the programs if the temperature on either climbs too high.
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 8.1 Pro RTM x64Intel Core-i5-3570K 4-core @ 3.4GHz (Ivy Brid...4 x 4GB DDR3-1600 Corsair Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2...MSI GeForce GTX770 Gaming OC 2GB
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dwarf Dwf/11/2012 r09/2013
OS
Windows 8.1 Pro RTM x64
CPU
Intel Core-i5-3570K 4-core @ 3.4GHz (Ivy Bridge) (OC 4.4GHz)
Motherboard
ASRock Z77 Extreme4-M
Memory
4 x 4GB DDR3-1600 Corsair Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B (16GB)
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GeForce GTX770 Gaming OC 2GB
Sound Card
Realtek High Definition on board solution (ALC 898)
Monitor(s) Displays
ViewSonic VA1912w Widescreen (VGA)
Screen Resolution
1440x900
Hard Drives
OCZ Agility 3 SSD 120GB SATA III x2 (RAID 0)
Samsung HD501LJ 500GB SATA II x2
Hitachi HDS721010CLA332 1TB SATA II
Iomega 1.5TB Ext USB 2.0
WD 2.0TB Ext USB 3.0
PSU
XFX Pro Series 850W Semi-Modular
Case
Gigabyte IF233
Cooling
1 x 120mm Front Inlet 1 x 120mm Rear Exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft Comfort Curve Keyboard 3000 (USB)
Mouse
Microsoft Comfort Mouse 3000 for Business (USB)
Internet Speed
NetGear DG834Gv3 ADSL Modem/Router (Ethernet) ~4.0 Mb/s (O2)
Antivirus
Avast! 8.0.1497
Browser
IE 11
Other Info
Optical Drive: HL-DT-ST BD-RE BH10LS30 SATA Bluray
Lexmark S305 Printer/Scanner/Copier (USB)
WEI Score: 8.1/8.1/8.5/8.5/8.25
Asus Eee PC 1011PX Netbook (Windows 7 x86 Starter)
I ran IntelBurnTest using max memory and FurMark in a window 1024 x 768 (so I could see the other programs). I could make the window a bit larger and add AA, but the thing is with the case door off my video card (HD 6570) is getting pretty warm (hit 88 c). With the door on I have a fan blowing right on the video card. I will run a video on my TV at the sametime next time. Man that should be quite a load! :)
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 7 64 Homei5 2500k2 X 8 GB 2133ATI HD 6570
OS
Windows 7 64 Home
CPU
i5 2500k
Motherboard
Biostar TZ68A+
Memory
2 X 8 GB 2133
Graphics Card(s)
ATI HD 6570
Sound Card
ASUS Zonar DG
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung 23"
Hard Drives
2 500 GB Seagate SATA 300 Raid 0
PSU
750 Watt Corsair
I ran a much longer test the other day and saw no drop in voltage on the voltmeter, but TOverclocker did show a drop at some point and I did not see the drop on the voltmeter. If the 12 volts is dropping it is dropping faster then I can see it or faster then the digital voltmeter can pick it up or I took my eyes off the voltmeter just long enough not to see it on the voltmeter. Also I played Far Cry 2 for several hours without a restart or shutdown. Then yesterday I was on-line trying to get a item ready for sale on ebay when all the sudden the computer shutoff. I have an UPS on the system, so it was not commercial power. At the time I was not doing anything, I was almost ready to post it on ebay when the computer just shut off without warning. In event viewer all is said was: 'The previous system shutdown was unexpected.' Seems it could be getting worst, what ever the problem is. Any ideas on how to isolate what the exact issue is? Can memory timings also cause this issue?
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 7 64 Homei5 2500k2 X 8 GB 2133ATI HD 6570
OS
Windows 7 64 Home
CPU
i5 2500k
Motherboard
Biostar TZ68A+
Memory
2 X 8 GB 2133
Graphics Card(s)
ATI HD 6570
Sound Card
ASUS Zonar DG
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung 23"
Hard Drives
2 500 GB Seagate SATA 300 Raid 0
PSU
750 Watt Corsair
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