Solved 32 bit --> 64 bit

[markg2]

Thanks for Brink's tutorial link.

I tested the Acronis boot CD and my ability to 'see' my archives on the wife's computer--success. Now it's just a matter of clearing some time to do the deed.

Thanks,

Mark

 

[gregrocker]

So following the reply from Greg...

>>>>The answer to your macro question is: YES, you can use either 32 bit or 64 bit with each Windows 7 license.<<<<<

So I wouldn't need to 'trick' the install and MS, when I enter my same key used several years ago for the Vista-->Win7 32 bit upgrade, would remove their association of that key from the 32 bit version to a new 64 bit version?


>>>>>So if you find the 64 bit installer, save a Windows 7 backup image in addition to your Acronis, then boot the DVD to clean reinstall. <<<<<<

Clarification by (my) restatement: The 64 bit installer to which you refer is the ISO file that I've downloaded and is the Windows 7 image to which you refer--it is the image that I will burn to a DVD becoming the boot/install media that will 1) recognize that I have a valid Win7 (upgrade) install, 2) initiate the drive reformatting, perform the 64 bit install and finally request entry of the Key?

Burn the ISO to DVD using ImgBurn at 4x speed with Verify, or write to flash stick using this tool with WIn7 in dropdown: Universal USB Installer – Easy as 1 2 3 .

Upon booting it will see the prior installation and allow use of Upgrade verison key upfront, even if you then go on to use Custom>Drive Options to Delete, Create New and Format partitions.

If you wipe the HD first or repartition, you need to wait until after install to insert key and then do one of the workarounds in Brink's tutorial to activate Win7 on clean HD.

Adapt these tips to get a perfect install based on hundreds done here:
Reinstalling Windows 7

 

[markg2]

Reading your (Greg...) reply and links I'm really starting to get a lot more comfortable. However, I've got a lot of questions. Too many for one message so I'll ask a few, get a reply and ask a few more (if you(all) don't mind).

Regarding the clean install of the 64 bit OS on media. ImageBurn-->CD okay. As for the stick:

1. Is there a preferential reason to use the stick to boot install the ISO file vs a CD?

2. The link says to format the stick FAT32 to insure a clean install. Why would the format type matter?

Regarding the 64 bit ISO file:

1. Using the ei.cfg removal tool...If I understand this correctly, If I run the tool against the install file (X15-65733.iso) I would then have my choice of not just the Home Premium but any of the flavors of Win7?

2. [CRITICAL]The following text from one of the links says: "You just need let the installer know which edition matches your product key (Note: Your disc still needs to be the same kernel as your key (i.e. 32 or 64-bit)" which says to me MY key is specific to my 32 bit and that a different key would be required for the 64 bit file referenced above?

Mark

 

[markg2]

Regarding the Universal USB Installer--

1. How can a Linux application run/work with a different operating system--Windows?

2. When start install it asks you to decide when Linux distribution from a TON of choices. The sample in the link shows Ubuntu 10x--is that the selection you must use?


Why backup your driver sub-directory if you've imaged the existing drive? The drivers are in the image. Plus, the drivers would be different and useless for the 64 bit version?

 

[gregrocker]

Responses in red:

Reading your (Greg...) reply and links I'm really starting to get a lot more comfortable. However, I've got a lot of questions. Too many for one message so I'll ask a few, get a reply and ask a few more (if you(all) don't mind).

Regarding the clean install of the 64 bit OS on media. ImageBurn-->CD okay. As for the stick:

1. Is there a preferential reason to use the stick to boot install the ISO file vs a CD?

It can be faster. A CD won't work since Win7 installer uses a DVD.

2. The link says to format the stick FAT32 to insure a clean install. Why would the format type matter?

Regarding the 64 bit ISO file:

1. Using the ei.cfg removal tool...If I understand this correctly, If I run the tool against the install file (X15-65733.iso) I would then have my choice of not just the Home Premium but any of the flavors of Win7?

Only necessary if the ISO is not for your licensed version, which is the only one the key will work for.

2. [CRITICAL]The following text from one of the links says: "You just need let the installer know which edition matches your product key (Note: Your disc still needs to be the same kernel as your key (i.e. 32 or 64-bit)" which says to me MY key is specific to my 32 bit and that a different key would be required for the 64 bit file referenced above?

The installer ISO needs to be 32- or 64-bit specific, the key can be used for either but not both at the same time.

Mark

Regarding the Universal USB Installer--

1. How can a Linux application run/work with a different operating system--Windows?

2. When start install it asks you to decide when Linux distribution from a TON of choices. The sample in the link shows Ubuntu 10x--is that the selection you must use?

It's not a Linux application, it only burns multiple Linux and Windows installers to flash stick quickly and easily. Choose Win7 in the dropdown menu, browse to ISO, done.

Why backup your driver sub-directory if you've imaged the existing drive? The drivers are in the image. Plus, the drivers would be different and useless for the 64 bit version?

Are you under the impression you can use the image as well as the clean reinstall you are asking about? You can use one but not the other. It is possible to mount the image in Disk mgmt to extract files but I would not use it as a file backup method - instead drag active User folders to external or DVD.

 

[markg2]

1. The iso file is 64 bit & my key is for Home Premium.

I thought I'd read that regardless of which version of Win7 you purchased all versions were on any Win7 installation disk/iso. That the ei.cfg removal tool allows you to see all these versions at the time of install. That I could then opt for Ultimate,for example, instead of Home Premium.

You clarified by saying NO. The tool just allows you to choose the version of your current installation since your key is version (not bit) specific. Correct?

2. Are you under the impression you can use the image as well as the clean reinstall you are asking about?

No. I can use the backup image if the 64 bit install goes south for some reason or I can mount and pull files as needed that might have escaped my separate data backups. What didn't make sense to me was your suggestion of backing up the 32 bit driver directory. Once the 64 bit is installed it was my understanding that ALL the associated drivers are different and specific to the 64 bit rendering the previous driver directory useless?

 

[gregrocker]

Correct, the bit-rate versions are sold on separate DVD's and download ISO's.

Backing up system32/drivers is a generalized step in my tips to get a perfect factory OEM reinstall: Reinstalling Windows 7. It would not apply in your case.

 

[markg2]

>>>>>>Burn the ISO to DVD using ImgBurn at 4x speed with Verify, or write to flash stick using this tool with Windows 7 in dropdown: Universal USB Installer – Easy as 1 2 3 .<<<<<<

I will create BOTH a DVD and stick. I'll use the stick as plan A with the DVD as a backup just in case. Your direction above for the DVD is simple. However, there was a link (that may have been from a link from a link) resulting in "How to Create a Windows Vista/7 installation disc (bootable) using ImgBurn." That explanation was several pages, some of which were sort of technical and the source appeared to be not an iso file.

I plan on dumping that procedure and opting for your straightforward "ImgBurn (Write file to disc) at 4x speed with Verify"--correct?

 

[gregrocker]

Yes.

 

[markg2]

The 32-->64 bit deed is done, albeit in a somewhat mangled manner. I'd like to explain what I did incorrectly and request that you all advise of the damage, if any. I'm not too far into app install and would, if necessary, do an Acronis restore and redo the OS install.

On the custom install, advanced I deleted the small hidden partition then, thinking that the actual install would do the format, I hit next. Upon seeing that format was not on the task list I aborted. The screen said what was done thus far would not be saved. I ended up back at the initial install screen and again went to advanced and again deleted the hidden partition (the one that had the OEM recovery Vista OS). However this time format was grayed out so I just went ahead with the OS install.

When I look at the drive using MS's manage it shows a 101Mb partition as unallocated and then the C drive. I'm assuming that unallocated means installing the recovery OS to the hidden drive was not done. I also presume that a format never occurred.

Sound correct?

Mark

 

[gregrocker]

Mark -

From Reinstalling Windows 7 steps I gave you:

Boot the Windows 7 installer, choose Custom Install, then Drive Options (Advanced) to Delete all partitions not needed, following illustrated steps given here: Clean Install Windows 7

If you Delete all partitions to create New ones and Format, the installer will issue a 100mb System Reserved boot partition which conveniently places the Repair Console (normally only on the DVD or Repair CD) on the F8 Advanced Boot Options menu. Partition as you wish and Format before installing to first OS partition.

Is there any reason to save any partitions? If not, delete them all, create new ones as desired, ignore the 100mb System Reserved partition, then format each before installing to first partition after 100mb.

 

[markg2]

As I acknowledged--I managed to blow the delete/format part which I'll primarily attribute to elevated nervousness.

That said, the question remains--given that no data appears to be written to the hidden partition and that the computer now runs far better than previous (most likely a function of several changed elements: access to all 4GB of RAM, a clean system (not a clean install since there probably was no format) and 64 bit running vs 32) I'm not sure that I see much value in going back through the exercise to reinstall the OS again merely to have a hidden recovery OS plus a formatted active drive.

I'm thinking I'll use Acronis Disk Director to merge the hidden partition with the active and just have the boot DVD that I used in this instance for worst case recovery.

I do wish to thank everyone of you guys (including Shawn!) for their assistance. Even though I didn't end up with the precisely correct result, the result is great and one I wouldn't have gotten absent this help.

Btw, I did need to use Shawn's 'Thurrott's method to get the OS key accepted.

Mark

 

[gregrocker]

There was a format applied when you clicked Next whether you chose format or not.

The 100mb System Reserved partition is not a Recovery Partition but merely contains the boot files and enables the Windows Repair console (WinRE) to be placed on the F8 Advanced Boot Options. Once you deleted all partitions it should have issued the 100mb partition. If it somehow remains Unallocated due to something strange which was done, with the System Active flag on the Win7 partition instead, then you can recover its space.

I would use free Partition Wizard bootable CD to Resize Win7 partition into the 100mb space. Be prepared if Win7 won't start to confirm it's marked Active then Startup Repair - Run 3 Separate Times

 

[markg2]

Now that I think about it and to prove your point, the previous hidden partition containing a Vista image was ~4GB (I just mounted the previous drive to snag a few files that escaped my backups) and the current is 101Mb. The MiniTool (which, by the way, has a nicer and friendlier interface than Acronis' Disk Director--thanks) says that 101Mb is the size and 101Mb is unused, unallocated and status is none. So I have to suspect that there's zip data on the thing.

1. Absent a really good reason not to just leave well enough (101Mb partition) alone, given we're only talking 101Mb and since I'll be moving on to add drive storage in some as yet undetermined way, I'd stay as is.

2. OTOH, if it's practical, not too hard and not too risky to manually put back the information that was supposed to have landed on the small partition during the install--I'd be game.

3. I've googled Windows Repair Console and haven't come up with a decent explanation as to what it is or does? If by not having the information to which you refer residing on that partition I could seriously jeopardize my ability to extricate myself from a problem down the road then that would add some importance to pursuing #2?


Mark

 

[Bare Foot Kid]

Hello Mark.


If you decide to recover the 100MB back into the C: partition Step Three of this tutorial linked below will give you an idea on the process.

Partition : Recover Space Used by an Older OS

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As good and reliable a program as Partition Wizard is, I would not trust the installed version for the operation you need, use the boot CD as suggested and be sure to post back with any further questions you may have and to keep us informed.

First download the Partition Wizard Bootable Disk (PWBD) ISO file to the desktop, be sure to get the PWBD and not the installed version; scroll down to see the download link for the Bootable CD ISO file at this link below.

Partition Wizard Free Bootable CD

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Then use ImgBurn to burn the ISO to a CD, at no greater than 4x speed with a verify; it was designed for use and works best from a CD rather than a DVD; then boot the created CD to make the changes, it doesn't take any input from the user to setup, just relax and let it load.

ImgBurn Free ISO Burning Software
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​

 

[gregrocker]

The repair console is on your DVD's second screen when booted, and on the Repair CD which you can make in Backup Center.

So writing the 100mb System Reserved partition now that you're installed without it isn't necessary just so you have Repair console on F8 unless you really want to learn how: Create the 100mb into a New Primary Partition, Format NTFS Primary, mark Active using PW CD, reboot run Startup Repair - Run 3 Separate Times.

Post back a screenshot of your maxmized Disk Mgmt drive map with listings, using SNipping tool in Start Menu, so we can look it over for you.

 

[markg2]

Thanks for the tip on the Repair Disk, I'm making one now.

 

[gregrocker]

I'd want the Win7 HD in DISK0 slot for least complications.

You can gather the 100mb into Win7 partition if you want by using free Partition Wizard bootable CD's Resize function, just slide the left hand grey slider bar all the way to the left, Apply.

 

[markg2]

I'm curious about 2 things--

How did I end up with disk0?

Disk0, as opposed to being on the same line as disk1 and separated by a bar indicative of a logical drive (partition), it is on a separate line (to me) indicating a separate physical drive and it's not. So why?

Why is it that there's no consequence in removing the 101Mb partition and I can simply 'slide the bar.' Whereas there are potential problems with disk0. I'm not looking to do anything with disk0 per your comments--again, just curious.

Mark

 

[seavixen32]

I'm puzzled by your disk layout.

Disk 0 (which is where one would expect Windows 7 to be installed) shows as 513MB, which is extremely small and suggests that the rest of the hard drive is hidden.

Disk 1 has a 100MB partition that has been deleted, I would have expected this to be the active partition with the master boot record for your operating system.

However, your C drive on Disk 1 is the active partition and I'm at a loss as to how you've finished up like this, especially as you say you've only got one drive.

Personally, if it was me, I'd do another clean install, but completely wipe the drive first to tidy things up.

Whichever way you look at it, Windows will expect to be installed on Drive 0 and not Drive 1.