Best temperature ranges?

[Golden]

OK. From what I can make out, there are a few options:

1. The existing exhaust fan is not strong enough to draw sufficient fresh air into the case, or
2. The CPU cooler isn't seated properly, and can't cool the CPU down.

Can you removed the front cover (the black one with the "grill") and take a photo of the aluminium chassis behind it? I want to see if there is an option to add another fan.

 

[M R]

I see.

But the problem is not the CPU, it's the mainboard, the CPU and HD are alway below 40ºC. Their temperature is about 35ºC. It's the mainbord that is always above 60ºC.

 

[Golden]

OK. If you run the PC with the side panel removed, does it run much cooler?

 

[GeneO]

I see.

But the problem is not the CPU, it's the mainboard, the CPU and HD are alway below 40ºC. Their temperature is about 35ºC. It's the mainbord that is always above 60ºC.

The mainboard chipset is being passively cooled by those two heat-sinks you see on the motheboard. There can be two problems there

1. They may not have adequate cool air passing over them tho cool them off.
2. They may not be seated or properly bonded with thermal paste or tape to the chipsets.

- Gene

 

[M R]

Golden: The panel does not matter, it's always at the same temperature. The extra cooler gives me 2 degrees less. The extra fan doesn't give much either. I see that the important factor is the distance between the bottom cooler and the ground/table. If there is more distance between the case and the table/ground it gives me like 5-7 degrees less.

GeneO: One sink is the metal structure between the processor and the OEM cooler, right? The other is the one sitting next to it, right?

If it's so, then I guess you might be right: there were a lot of wires above them, and I think they only use thermal paste for the processor.

I'm going to tell that to the guys at the store were I bought the computer. I'll get back to you tomorrow.

 

[GeneO]

Sounds like a plan. Good luck.

 

[Golden]

Let us know how it goes mate.

 

[M R]

Hello again guys,


I took the computer to the store where I bought it and asked for a fix. They told me that this particular board has a design problem with sensors. First they took a look at the temp info provided by the BIOS, and then I noticed that the values there were different: the processor was running at 88-90 ºC, that's to close to the boling point, but the processor does not feel cold if you touch it. They flashed the BIOS with the latest firmware and it fixed the problem partially: both Speccy and Speedfan reported temperatures ranging from 35 to 45 ºC for the CPU, but the board coontinued to report 70-75 ºC.

They changed the thermal paste in both the OEM cooler and the heatsink on the northbridge chipset, and added an extra fan. The overall temp decreased (according to the programs) except for the mainboard in Speccy and for something called Aux in Speedfan. Both temp values remained unchanged.

Now, seeing that all those changes (new firmware, corrected CPU values, thermal paste, and an extra fan) did nothing to the board temperature makes me think there is a problem with that other sensor. Besides, if everything is cooler now, and if it's all cool to the touch, it has to be a wrong reading, unless, of course, the high temperature reading comes from the PSU itself, since it's the only thing they didn't touch (and the program that ickymay suggested actually says Chassis temperature, not motherboard...).

Should I change the PSU just to see if anything changes?

 

[Golden]

Hi MR,

Sounds like you are getting somewhere. Can you remind us what make of PSU you have?

 

[Fluffy]

If your motherboard was at 72C it would shut down. My board is always around 30-38, and I believe 40-45 is the max (I maybe wrong) it just sounds like a malfunctioning sensor or a badly placed one.

 

[ickymay]

Hello again guys,


(and the program that ickymay suggested actually says Chassis temperature, not motherboard...).

Should I change the PSU just to see if anything changes?

what temperature did blackbox report for "chassis" ?

if it really concerns you, you could get an external temperature sensor, such as this one

 

[GeneO]

Hello again guys,


I took the computer to the store where I bought it and asked for a fix. They told me that this particular board has a design problem with sensors. First they took a look at the temp info provided by the BIOS, and then I noticed that the values there were different: the processor was running at 88-90 ºC, that's to close to the boling point, but the processor does not feel cold if you touch it. They flashed the BIOS with the latest firmware and it fixed the problem partially: both Speccy and Speedfan reported temperatures ranging from 35 to 45 ºC for the CPU, but the board coontinued to report 70-75 ºC.

They changed the thermal paste in both the OEM cooler and the heatsink on the northbridge chipset, and added an extra fan. The overall temp decreased (according to the programs) except for the mainboard in Speccy and for something called Aux in Speedfan. Both temp values remained unchanged.

Now, seeing that all those changes (new firmware, corrected CPU values, thermal paste, and an extra fan) did nothing to the board temperature makes me think there is a problem with that other sensor. Besides, if everything is cooler now, and if it's all cool to the touch, it has to be a wrong reading, unless, of course, the high temperature reading comes from the PSU itself, since it's the only thing they didn't touch (and the program that ickymay suggested actually says Chassis temperature, not motherboard...).

Should I change the PSU just to see if anything changes?

I believe that the Aux reading in speedfan is your MB (northbridge)

The CPU temps are good

- Gene

 

[Nemix]

My cousin is in same scenario except the bad temp sensor is for the CPU. He took it to the store, changed the heatsink/thermal paste and still the temps idles at 60 degrees and 90+ degrees load till the computer auto shuts itself. He's changed the CPU to a 3.4Ghz new one and still temps are the same. I've suspect BIOS, thermal sensor problem in his case and have advised him to look for a new motherboard if he wants to keep his current setup or else just build a new cheap rig and sell the working old parts.

 

[M R]

My cousin is in same scenario except the bad temp sensor is for the CPU. He took it to the store, changed the heatsink/thermal paste and still the temps idles at 60 degrees and 90+ degrees load till the computer auto shuts itself. He's changed the CPU to a 3.4Ghz new one and still temps are the same. I've suspect BIOS, thermal sensor problem in his case and have advised him to look for a new motherboard if he wants to keep his current setup or else just build a new cheap rig and sell the working old parts.

Don't worry about CPU, that board model does have isues with CPU sensors. Just update the BIOS software and it'll be OK. The problem is that the other sensors, AUX (as reported by SpeedFan), seem to be inaccurate to.


I put a lot of fans and temp values just won't go down. I had the thermal paste for both the CPU and heatsink changed. I also tried removing the side covers. The interesting thing is that teperature values don't go dow even if you can physically feel they are lower (now the air that is being blown out feels much cooler than before, and the northbridge chip doesn't cause water to boils (it is supposed to be 100ºC)).

I believe the porblem here is the sensors not the real temperature.

 

[M R]

Hello again guys,


(and the program that ickymay suggested actually says Chassis temperature, not motherboard...).

Should I change the PSU just to see if anything changes?

what temperature did blackbox report for "chassis" ?

if it really concerns you, you could get an external temperature sensor, such as this one

The Chassis temperature was 72-75 according to BlackBox