Solved BIOS keep resetting everytime plug off

leonnkeong

New member
Member
Local time
2:00 AM
Messages
68
My BIOS keep resetting after I shut down and plug out. I am suspecting CMOS battery drained out but this PC is only 3 years+. Moreover, my time and date DID NOT RESET back to the default, it still remain as usual. Any idea on this?

I'm using GIGABYTE GA-Z77P-D3.

Thanks in advance guru! :)
 

My Computer

OS
Windows Ultimate x64
CPU
Intel i7 2600 @ 3.8GHz
Motherboard
Gigabyte Z77P-D3
Memory
Corsair Vengeance 8GB Dual Channel
Graphics Card(s)
Sapphire ATI HD7850 2GB
Case
CM RC 690 II
Cooling
Corsair H60
Keyboard
Razer Lycosa
Mouse
Razer Deathadder 3.5G
Internet Speed
VIP10 @ 10 mbps
Check the CMOS jumper on your MB to see if it's still on the "reset" position.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
iBuyPower NZXT
OS
Microsoft Windows 10 Home Build 15036
CPU
Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-860 @ 2.80GHz
Motherboard
Gigabyte Technology Co., Ltd. P55-UD3L
Memory
4.00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 750
Sound Card
(1) Line 6 UX2 (2) Realtek High Definition Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
23" acer
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080 x 32 bits (4294967296 colors) @ 60 Hz
Hard Drives
(1) WDC WD5000AAKS-00D2B0 ATA Device (2) Seagate FreeAgent Go 250G USB Device
Cooling
Corsair H75 liquid cooler (Very easy to install, actually)
Internet Speed
60M cable modem-->Linksys E1200-->1Gbps net card
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
This is probably the longest I've ever had a Windows machine run without having to restore it to scratch. I'm used to restoring to "factory" about every 2 yrs. I've run with Win7 since new in 2009 and only recently (Nov, '14) restored to clean up the machine from all my 'xperimenting. LOL!! I may never need another machine.

Upgraded to 10 when it was still free, then installed 2017 update.
Check the CMOS jumper on your MB to see if it's still on the "reset" position.

Nope. I never open my chassis recently anyway, nothing changes in there. Any idea?
 

My Computer

OS
Windows Ultimate x64
CPU
Intel i7 2600 @ 3.8GHz
Motherboard
Gigabyte Z77P-D3
Memory
Corsair Vengeance 8GB Dual Channel
Graphics Card(s)
Sapphire ATI HD7850 2GB
Case
CM RC 690 II
Cooling
Corsair H60
Keyboard
Razer Lycosa
Mouse
Razer Deathadder 3.5G
Internet Speed
VIP10 @ 10 mbps
change the battery for the cmos.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 10 Pro - 64 bit
CPU
Intel i7 2600K
Motherboard
Asus P8P67
Memory
8 Gig ddr3 1600 mhz - viper extreme (Patriot)
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA 980 TI
Monitor(s) Displays
2 - Lg 21" LED , sony 48 " bravia LED
Hard Drives
one - samsung 840 series 465.76 GB SSD
two - wd 2 tB black
one - wd 1.5 tb black
one - wb 1 tb black
PSU
1000 Watt Coolmaster : Silent Pro Gold
Case
antec 1200
Cooling
watercooled
Mouse
logitech wireless
Antivirus
Norton Security 2015
Other Info
powerware 3.1 KVA FERRUPS with 4 - 1000 Amp Deep cycle batteries ...

My Computer

OS
Windows Ultimate x64
CPU
Intel i7 2600 @ 3.8GHz
Motherboard
Gigabyte Z77P-D3
Memory
Corsair Vengeance 8GB Dual Channel
Graphics Card(s)
Sapphire ATI HD7850 2GB
Case
CM RC 690 II
Cooling
Corsair H60
Keyboard
Razer Lycosa
Mouse
Razer Deathadder 3.5G
Internet Speed
VIP10 @ 10 mbps

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 10 Pro - 64 bit
CPU
Intel i7 2600K
Motherboard
Asus P8P67
Memory
8 Gig ddr3 1600 mhz - viper extreme (Patriot)
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA 980 TI
Monitor(s) Displays
2 - Lg 21" LED , sony 48 " bravia LED
Hard Drives
one - samsung 840 series 465.76 GB SSD
two - wd 2 tB black
one - wd 1.5 tb black
one - wb 1 tb black
PSU
1000 Watt Coolmaster : Silent Pro Gold
Case
antec 1200
Cooling
watercooled
Mouse
logitech wireless
Antivirus
Norton Security 2015
Other Info
powerware 3.1 KVA FERRUPS with 4 - 1000 Amp Deep cycle batteries ...

My Computer

OS
Windows Ultimate x64
CPU
Intel i7 2600 @ 3.8GHz
Motherboard
Gigabyte Z77P-D3
Memory
Corsair Vengeance 8GB Dual Channel
Graphics Card(s)
Sapphire ATI HD7850 2GB
Case
CM RC 690 II
Cooling
Corsair H60
Keyboard
Razer Lycosa
Mouse
Razer Deathadder 3.5G
Internet Speed
VIP10 @ 10 mbps
I understand what you are saying about the system clock seeming to rule out the battery. However, you can't be sure which components are more or less tolerant of marginal voltages.

In troubleshooting a thing like this, I would go from "easy" to "hard," that is, first change the battery (cheap, low risk), before moving on to something like flashing the BIOS or looking for a short in the hardware.

I have a Gigabyte motherboard, and the BIOS has a way to set it to a "known safe state." You might want to do that after changing the battery.

Just to be clear though if the current BIOS is F7 (actually I think there's an F8a beta) and yours is F2 that would be on the list of thing to address. Just move it to after the easy stuff. :)
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Homebuilt
OS
Microsoft Windows10 Professional 64-bit Build 16299
CPU
Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-4590 CPU @ 3.30GHz, 3301 Mhz 4 Core
Motherboard
Asrock H97M Pro4
Memory
8.00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 560 Ti
Sound Card
(1) Webcam 200 (2) Realtek High Definition Audio (3) Int
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung Syncmaster 24 inch
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900 x 32 bits (4294967296 colors) @ 60 Hz
Hard Drives
(1) WDC WD5000AAKS-00E4A0 ATA Device (2) WDC WD5000AAKX-00ERMA0 ATA Device (3) WDC WD10EZEX-08M2NA0 (4) WD 7500AAC External USB Device (5) WD My Passport Ultra USB Device
PSU
Corsair 500W
Case
Corsair 100R
Cooling
Stock
Keyboard
Logitech K120
Mouse
Logitech M110
Internet Speed
20Mbps
Antivirus
Malwarebytes, Windows Defender
Browser
Edge, Chrome, Firefox
I understand what you are saying about the system clock seeming to rule out the battery. However, you can't be sure which components are more or less tolerant of marginal voltages.

In troubleshooting a thing like this, I would go from "easy" to "hard," that is, first change the battery (cheap, low risk), before moving on to something like flashing the BIOS or looking for a short in the hardware.

I have a Gigabyte motherboard, and the BIOS has a way to set it to a "known safe state." You might want to do that after changing the battery.

Just to be clear though if the current BIOS is F7 (actually I think there's an F8a beta) and yours is F2 that would be on the list of thing to address. Just move it to after the easy stuff. :)

Right you got the point. Gonna replace CMOS and see how is it. Will update here.
 

My Computer

OS
Windows Ultimate x64
CPU
Intel i7 2600 @ 3.8GHz
Motherboard
Gigabyte Z77P-D3
Memory
Corsair Vengeance 8GB Dual Channel
Graphics Card(s)
Sapphire ATI HD7850 2GB
Case
CM RC 690 II
Cooling
Corsair H60
Keyboard
Razer Lycosa
Mouse
Razer Deathadder 3.5G
Internet Speed
VIP10 @ 10 mbps
Update : Changed CMOS battery and everything is fixed. Thanks!
 

My Computer

OS
Windows Ultimate x64
CPU
Intel i7 2600 @ 3.8GHz
Motherboard
Gigabyte Z77P-D3
Memory
Corsair Vengeance 8GB Dual Channel
Graphics Card(s)
Sapphire ATI HD7850 2GB
Case
CM RC 690 II
Cooling
Corsair H60
Keyboard
Razer Lycosa
Mouse
Razer Deathadder 3.5G
Internet Speed
VIP10 @ 10 mbps
Back
Top