Building your own computer

All this advice sounds like you guys are buying parts from online stores. What about getting a store to do it for you?

Here in this corner of southeast Asia, getting a shop to do it for you is de rigeur unless you're the really fussy type and want to do everything yourself, e.g. it involves stuff like watercooling. Good luck.

For the rest of us mortals, it's a fairly straightforward process.

  • Go to IT mall. It's like a regular shopping mall, except that all the shops in the entire 4-5 storey structure consist entirely of computer hardware and cellphone shops only (there may be a cafe on the top floor but it's usually full of technicians on their break).
  • Nearly all the shops selling PCs will have a stack of photocopied paper right out front which you help yourself to, on which is printed this week's prices for everything from CPU and RAM to external peripherals. Spend an hour walking around collecting these price lists. More often than not the prices will fall within 5% of each other regardless of the outlet, so price comparison isn't strictly necessary. Personally I just grab 4-5 lists.
  • -OPTIONAL- Do your homework: look up every component, read reviews, find out how much juice you want from a PSU, that kind of stuff.
  • Pick a shop you've done business with before, or one with a friendly-looking salesperson. For the most part these guys are just college kids in temp jobs - getting scammed is unlikely. These youngsters generally know wtf they're talking about, and can help you decide if you're not particularly choosy about a specific component ("I want graphics card X, but I don't care what router"). This is no substitute for not doing your homework though, as they can't know everything.
  • Once you've chosen all your components, decide whether to get them to install the OS (if you purchased one). If you do this, you'll need to return in 2-3 days. If not, they'll assemble the rig on the spot while you go away for half an hour to eat or something; it should be ready when you return and they'll show you it'll power on with no bad parts before boxing it up for you to bring home.

Easy as pie. Labour charge isn't that much, probably what you spend on a lunch for a family of 4 or something like that. Well worth the hassle of not having to assemble everything yourself. I remember all too vividly the time I spent putting PCs together back in the 90s, swearing when something went wrong and playing the "guess which component is bad" game.

Screw that hassle. Or maybe I'm just getting old :p But seriously, there's little reason to do everything yourself. Prices are close to what you get from online stores, bar sales. This is the IT malls I'm talking about, not the retail shops selling ready-made PCs like your Walmart or CompUSA or whatever equivalent. Not unexpectedly, those do add hefty retail margins to the price tag; nobody buys from those guys.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self-built rig
OS
Win7 Pro x64
CPU
Koa i5-2550K
Memory
8 GB
Graphics Card(s)
Sapphire ATI 6870 1GB GDDR5
Sound Card
RealTek HD Audio / ATI HDMI Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung HDTV Monitor T23A350
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
- SSD (C:)
- HDD (D:)
- BD-ROM (E:)
Keyboard
Logitech G110
Internet Speed
Unifi home (5mbps)
One of the first things when choosing to build your own system is determining whether you wish to have an AMD or Intel based system then choosing a CPU (processor) that matches the socket type of the motherboard as there are many different socket types and CPU's to choose from. Thermal paste MUST be applied between the CPU and CPU cooler or the CPU will overheat.

I'm planning on getting an i7 3820. Thing is I've heard that AMD's Bulldozer line are much better value and speed, much like their Athlons were compared with Intel's Pentiums. What is AMD's equivalent to the 3820, and is it indeed better speed and price?

All this advice sounds like you guys are buying parts from online stores. What about getting a store to do it for you?

Here in this corner of southeast Asia, getting a shop to do it for you is de rigeur unless you're the really fussy type and want to do everything yourself, e.g. it involves stuff like watercooling. Good luck.

For the rest of us mortals, it's a fairly straightforward process.

  • Go to IT mall. It's like a regular shopping mall, except that all the shops in the entire 4-5 storey structure consist entirely of computer hardware and cellphone shops only (there may be a cafe on the top floor but it's usually full of technicians on their break).
  • Nearly all the shops selling PCs will have a stack of photocopied paper right out front which you help yourself to, on which is printed this week's prices for everything from CPU and RAM to external peripherals. Spend an hour walking around collecting these price lists. More often than not the prices will fall within 5% of each other regardless of the outlet, so price comparison isn't strictly necessary. Personally I just grab 4-5 lists.
  • -OPTIONAL- Do your homework: look up every component, read reviews, find out how much juice you want from a PSU, that kind of stuff.
  • Pick a shop you've done business with before, or one with a friendly-looking salesperson. For the most part these guys are just college kids in temp jobs - getting scammed is unlikely. These youngsters generally know wtf they're talking about, and can help you decide if you're not particularly choosy about a specific component ("I want graphics card X, but I don't care what router"). This is no substitute for not doing your homework though, as they can't know everything.
  • Once you've chosen all your components, decide whether to get them to install the OS (if you purchased one). If you do this, you'll need to return in 2-3 days. If not, they'll assemble the rig on the spot while you go away for half an hour to eat or something; it should be ready when you return and they'll show you it'll power on with no bad parts before boxing it up for you to bring home.
Easy as pie. Labour charge isn't that much, probably what you spend on a lunch for a family of 4 or something like that. Well worth the hassle of not having to assemble everything yourself. I remember all too vividly the time I spent putting PCs together back in the 90s, swearing when something went wrong and playing the "guess which component is bad" game.

Screw that hassle. Or maybe I'm just getting old :p But seriously, there's little reason to do everything yourself. Prices are close to what you get from online stores, bar sales. This is the IT malls I'm talking about, not the retail shops selling ready-made PCs like your Walmart or CompUSA or whatever equivalent. Not unexpectedly, those do add hefty retail margins to the price tag; nobody buys from those guys.

Trouble with going to a specialist here is that if I get the parts from them they'll change around £40 to £50 (for each part!) more than if I got the parts myself, which isn't viable for me, especially seeing that this will put me way, way, way over budget before they even start work on it! However, I'm looking into getting the parts then trying to find someone who'll simply charge to put it together. I think I might have someone. I asked for quotes on parts, but he's not got back to me in over a week. Tried him again yesterday but he still hasn't got back to me, which could prove advantageous for me (if his parts prove as expensive as I believe they will be) because that'll give me the excuse to get the parts on the cheap then take them to him saying, "Well, you never got back to me!". Don't worry, he's on the level work wise, it's just he's being really slow at getting parts after moving shops.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Windows 10
Well Honestly Having someone do it for you gets costly

Do you have any trustworthy friends that can help you hands on

Im not sure what your budget is or what you are trying to do with a custom machine but i think paying vs doing it yourself has adverse effects

The man may doop you if you don't take the time to study up on this stuff we are here to help if any case if you want something simple and decent go with a Barebone kit atleast from there you can figure out what else you would need

there about 300.00 to 400.00 dollars pretty much you have to add a few things maybe cpu or ram or OS depends on the Barebone kit but im sure you research you can get something pretty snazzy if you just take the time..............
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
CoreI7-6700K MrFingerIII Special Builds
OS
Windows 10 Home Premium 64bit sp1
CPU
Intel I7-6700K @ 4.6 Ghz 1.344 volts everyday OC
Motherboard
Asrock Fatality K6 Z170 Socket 1151
Memory
32GB G-Skill TridentZ 3200mhz 16-18-18-38 DDR4
Graphics Card(s)
Sli Gigabyte Windforce GTX 980 G1
Sound Card
AC97 Creative Rage Tactic 3D Headphones Bluetooth
Monitor(s) Displays
27" Asus ROG Swift PG278Q G-Sync 48" Vizio Smart HD TV
Screen Resolution
2560x1440p 27"- 48" Currently Gaming at 2560x1440p Res 2K
Hard Drives
250GB Samsung Evo840SSD Seagate baracuda 500 GB WD Mybook 500Gb 1TB Seagate Barracuda
PSU
HX1050w Corsair Silver 80plus certified crosfire/sli
Case
Enthod Pro Full Tower
Cooling
Corsair H110i GT 280 mm High Performance WaterBlock
Keyboard
Logitech wireless keyboard
Mouse
Logitech wireless mouse
Internet Speed
Cox Cable 100+ mb
Antivirus
WebRoot Spysweeper with Antivirus
Browser
IE-10, Chrome, Opera
Other Info
My Other Rig is a AMD FX8320E @4.6Ghz 16GB Ballistic Sport Ram
Mobo Asrock Fatality 990FX 120GB OCZ SSD 1TB Seagate Barracuda Corsair H75 Cooling PSU Corsair CX750
GPU GTX Gigabyte 970G1
I'm planning on getting an i7 3820. Thing is I've heard that AMD's Bulldozer line are much better value and speed, much like their Athlons were compared with Intel's Pentiums. What is AMD's equivalent to the 3820, and is it indeed better speed and price?
AMD used to be a much better value in the past, but that hasn't been true in my opinion for quite a number of years. With AMD, you get more cores. And if you compare a 6 core AMD or an 8 core AMD to a 6 core Intel, the AMD is cheaper. The part you must keep in mind is that in most cases, a 4 core Intel outperforms an 8 core AMD. So, comparing prices between an 8 core AMD and a 4 core Intel shows prices that are very close. So, given that, I take the CPU that gives the best performance, with the lowest heat and least power used. And that is the Intel. Unless you are using something heavily threaded to really take advantage of the AMD, I'd go Intel.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self-Built in July 2009
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
Intel Q9550 2.83Ghz OC'd to 3.40Ghz
Motherboard
Gigabyte GA-EP45-UD3R rev. 1.1, F12 BIOS
Memory
8GB G.Skill PI DDR2-800, 4-4-4-12 timings
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA 1280MB Nvidia GeForce GTX570
Sound Card
Realtek ALC899A 8 channel onboard audio
Monitor(s) Displays
23" Acer x233H
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Intel X25-M 80GB Gen 2 SSD
Western Digital 1TB Caviar Black, 32MB cache. WD1001FALS
PSU
Corsair 620HX modular
Case
Antec P182
Cooling
stock
Keyboard
ABS M1 Mechanical
Mouse
Logitech G9 Laser Mouse
Internet Speed
15/2 cable modem
Other Info
Windows and Linux enthusiast. Logitech G35 Headset.
I'm planning on getting an i7 3820. Thing is I've heard that AMD's Bulldozer line are much better value and speed, much like their Athlons were compared with Intel's Pentiums. What is AMD's equivalent to the 3820, and is it indeed better speed and price?

(snip)

Trouble with going to a specialist here is that if I get the parts from them they'll change around £40 to £50 (for each part!) more than if I got the parts myself, which isn't viable for me, especially seeing that this will put me way, way, way over budget before they even start work on it! However, I'm looking into getting the parts then trying to find someone who'll simply charge to put it together. I think I might have someone. I asked for quotes on parts, but he's not got back to me in over a week. Tried him again yesterday but he still hasn't got back to me, which could prove advantageous for me (if his parts prove as expensive as I believe they will be) because that'll give me the excuse to get the parts on the cheap then take them to him saying, "Well, you never got back to me!". Don't worry, he's on the level work wise, it's just he's being really slow at getting parts after moving shops.

The AMD Athlon 64 (and X2) line was the price/performance leader back in the day when Intel's finest was the "Prescott" P4. That's nearly 10 years ago, though. Since the Intel Core series was introduced, AMD has been competing mainly on price. The top-end 8 core FX CPU sells for roughtly the same price as an I7-2600k. For many (not all) purposes, the I7 will outperform the FX.

In the US, people who avoid both the major makers (Dell, HP, etc.) but don't want to assemble the system themselves go to "white box" stores. These are small local shops that assemble PCs. The main problem with such shops is that they tend to go with the cheapest components available, like generic motherboards from brands you may not see often at retail. ("PC Chips" used to be common; I don't know about today.)

From my point of view, coming up with the parts list is most of the work. Once that's done, whanging the bits together can be done in a couple of hours, using little more than one medium Philips screwdriver.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
homegrown
OS
Windows 7 Pro X64 SP1
CPU
Intel Core I7-3930k
Motherboard
Asus P9X79 Pro
Memory
16 GB Gskill DDR3-2133
Graphics Card(s)
eVGA GTX680
Sound Card
Creative X-Fi Titanium
Monitor(s) Displays
As PA246Q
Screen Resolution
1920 X 1200
Hard Drives
Corsair Force GT, 120 GB
WDC 1.5TB Caviar Black
PSU
PCP&C Silencer 750 Crossfire
Case
Silverstone FT02
Cooling
Noctua NH-D14
Keyboard
cheap Logitech USB
Mouse
Microsoft Intellimouse Explorer (old optical) USB
Internet Speed
6Mb cable
Other Info
Pioneer BDR-205
Samsung SH-203B
Monsoon 5.1 speakers
If you are buying all the parts separately, post the parts here and we can tell you if there are better parts/dollar or if they are incompatible in any way.

"Bare-Bones" computer setups are a good 1st time project as all parts will be compatible.

(Pretty much just a set of component sold as a bundle)

Also, dont skimp on the Power supply. this is the lifeblood of the machine and you want one that is quality.
(Usually bare-bones computers come with cheap-o power supplies so its a good idea to buy this part separate.)
 

My Computer

Computer type
Laptop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
ASUS G60-RBBX05
OS
Win7 Home Premium 64x
CPU
Intel Core 2 Duo P7450 / 2.13 GHz (2.29 with Extreme Turbo)
Memory
4 GB PC-6400 Hyundai (2X2) at 800Mhz
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 260M 1GB DDR3 VRAM
Monitor(s) Displays
16" LED Backlit
Screen Resolution
1366 x 768 on laptop 1600x1050 max res on 22" external mon
Hard Drives
OCZ Agility 3 60GB SSD / 320 GB - Serial ATA-150 - 7200 rpm
PSU
6-cell Lithium ion { lasts 1.5 hours }
Case
ASUS G60 Laptop
Keyboard
Chicklet type back-lit (white light) keyboard
Mouse
Logitech G9 Laser Mouse 3200dpi and 1000 reports per minute
Internet Speed
Comcast 8.60mb/s up - 3.11mb/s down
Antivirus
MSE
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
General mid-budget gaming Comp. Low batterylife - High FrameRates - currently overheating problems :(

2nd Rig: Case: Rosewill BLACKHAWK Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case

Mobo: GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3
CPU: AMD FX-6200 Zambezi 3.8GHz (4.1GHz Turbo)
Heatsink: COOLER MASTER V8 CPU Cooler
RAM: Patriot Viper 3 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM 1866 (PC3 15000)
GPU: SAPPHIRE Radeon HD 6850 1GB 2

My Computer

Computer type
Laptop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
ASUS G60-RBBX05
OS
Win7 Home Premium 64x
CPU
Intel Core 2 Duo P7450 / 2.13 GHz (2.29 with Extreme Turbo)
Memory
4 GB PC-6400 Hyundai (2X2) at 800Mhz
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 260M 1GB DDR3 VRAM
Monitor(s) Displays
16" LED Backlit
Screen Resolution
1366 x 768 on laptop 1600x1050 max res on 22" external mon
Hard Drives
OCZ Agility 3 60GB SSD / 320 GB - Serial ATA-150 - 7200 rpm
PSU
6-cell Lithium ion { lasts 1.5 hours }
Case
ASUS G60 Laptop
Keyboard
Chicklet type back-lit (white light) keyboard
Mouse
Logitech G9 Laser Mouse 3200dpi and 1000 reports per minute
Internet Speed
Comcast 8.60mb/s up - 3.11mb/s down
Antivirus
MSE
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
General mid-budget gaming Comp. Low batterylife - High FrameRates - currently overheating problems :(

2nd Rig: Case: Rosewill BLACKHAWK Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case

Mobo: GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3
CPU: AMD FX-6200 Zambezi 3.8GHz (4.1GHz Turbo)
Heatsink: COOLER MASTER V8 CPU Cooler
RAM: Patriot Viper 3 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM 1866 (PC3 15000)
GPU: SAPPHIRE Radeon HD 6850 1GB 2
I didn't think I could build a computer, but with this forum and others I did. The most time consuming part for me was deciding on and buying the parts. Did a lot of reading and googleing. The build is pretty straight forward, just take your time and double check everything. The part I thought would be the hardest was start up, installing the OS and drivers. I took some advice and went to the manufacturers web site and downloaded and installed everything needed. All went smoothly. I spent a bunch of time reading and in the end it worked out great. Couldn't be happier!

Heres a 3 part video on how to build a computer from Newegg I thought was useful. Their You Tube channel is great for how-tos and info.

Part 1 Newegg TV: How To Build a Computer - Part 1 - Choosing Your Components - YouTube
Part 2 Newegg TV: How To Build a Computer - Part 2 - The Build - YouTube
Part 3 Newegg TV: How To Build a Computer - Part 3 - Installing Windows & Finishing Touches - YouTube

Good Luck.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Born on date-10-7-2011
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit
CPU
Intel Core i5-2500 K
Motherboard
Asus P8Z68-V Bios 0902
Memory
8GB J Skill- F312800CLD-8GBXM
Graphics Card(s)
Saphire 6870 & Intel HD 3000
Sound Card
Realtek HD Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus VE258Q
Screen Resolution
1920 X 1080
Hard Drives
64g Crucial M4 SSD, 750g WD Caviar Black
PSU
Corsair TX 650 V2
Case
Corsair Carbide 400R
Cooling
Corsair H60
Keyboard
CM Storm Trigger Cherry Blues
Mouse
Logitech G500, G700
Thanks for all the feedback. I'm edging on doing it myself, but as you can tell I'll probably need a lot of step-by-step advice if I do.

One thing though. I understand a new generation of CPUs, the "Ivy Bridge" is due out soon. Is it right that they're fully compatible with the 2011 boards? I was told at the nearest PC superstore (i.e. PC World) that they're not. But today I looked up the Ivy Bridge on the Net and it says they are fully compatible.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Windows 10
Some Ivy Bridge processors are out now.

They are socket 1155.

I think socket 2011 is the Sandy Bridge Extreme series as of right now, but some future Ivy Bridge processors will be socket 2011.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Ignatz Special; 4 speed manual gearbox; factory air conditioning; one of one
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium SP1, 64-bit
CPU
Intel Skylake i5-6600K, not overclocked
Motherboard
AsRock Z170M Extreme 4, micro ATX
Memory
8 GB HyperX DDR4-2666 (2 x 4 GB)
Graphics Card(s)
none; graphics are integrated on CPU
Sound Card
onboard: Realtek ALC1150; external: USB Behringer UF0-202
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2340M 23 inch IPS
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
System: Crucial MX100 series SSD, 128 GB;
Data: Samsung Spinpoint 103SJ, 1 TB;
Backup: WD Caviar Green WD30EZRX-00D8PB0, 3 TB
PSU
Rosewill SilentNight 500 watt fanless, semi-modular
Case
Antec Solo II
Cooling
Noctua NH-U12S; Noctua F12 intake, Noctua S12A exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft 200 6JH-00001 USB
Mouse
Dell or Microsoft optical wired; USB
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials and Malwarebytes Premium
Browser
Pale Moon
Other Info
All fans PWM; speeds at idle: CPU circa 500 rpm; intake circa 600 rpm; exhaust circa 600 rpm; CPU temps 27 idle and 47 C load in a warm room (27 C/81 F) when running Intel Extreme Tuning Utility stress test.
About the anti-static wrist straps. Why is there such a great difference in prices, from £2 to £50? They all look pretty much the same as each other and even the cheap ones get good reviews.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Windows 10
About the anti-static wrist straps. Why is there such a great difference in prices, from £2 to £50? They all look pretty much the same as each other and even the cheap ones get good reviews.
Just get a single use one. The more expensive ones are for multiple uses.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Made
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium x64
CPU
Intel 2500k @4.5ghz 66deg max P95/IBT
Motherboard
Gigabyte Z68A-D3-B3
Memory
8 Gigs Patriot Viper 2 Extreme @1600
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 580 3 GIG 35degrees idle
Sound Card
Nvidia HD audio via HDMI to 7.1 Receiver
Monitor(s) Displays
32" Olevia hdtv
Screen Resolution
1080p
Hard Drives
64gig SSD(OS/Apps)
250gig (Files and Dox)
1tb (imaging and backup)
PSU
Corsair vx550w
Case
Thermaltake V3 black
Cooling
CM 212+(push n pull) 4 case fans
Keyboard
Logitech wireless Combo, G13
Mouse
G300
Internet Speed
40mps
Other Info
Two others up and running; C2D E5200/MSI G41M-P26/Corsair XMS3 8gb/GTS 250 1gb and C2D E8200/xFx 750sli/8gb Corsair Dominator/2x EVGA 550ti
Working on; i2600 Build...
HP DV6
@Work I use a Lenovo 5536B8U + Lenovo U300s
Easy as pie. Labour charge isn't that much, probably what you spend on a lunch for a family of 4 or something like that. Well worth the hassle of not having to assemble everything yourself. I remember all too vividly the time I spent putting PCs together back in the 90s, swearing when something went wrong and playing the "guess which component is bad" game.
Building a PC these days is far easier than it used to be. Overall, parts are more standard and better labelled, with far fewer hassles and troubleshooting steps to take.
Screw that hassle. Or maybe I'm just getting old :p But seriously, there's little reason to do everything yourself. Prices are close to what you get from online stores, bar sales. This is the IT malls I'm talking about, not the retail shops selling ready-made PCs like your Walmart or CompUSA or whatever equivalent. Not unexpectedly, those do add hefty retail margins to the price tag; nobody buys from those guys.
I'd love to live where you do, because in the rest of the world, buying online is FAR cheaper. The stores have much more overhead and don't buy in volume that someone like Newegg does. On top of that, I can take a pile of boxes and turn it into a working computer in around 30 minutes, maybe adding another 10 minutes if I want to hide my wiring. Why pay anything for someone else to do that? Not only am I saving money on the parts, but I'm saving the labor costs as well...which means more money in my pocket, or more money devoted to better hardware. I've taught 25-30 people how to build computers, including my wife, and every single one of them has been amazed at how easy the process is.
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1
CPU
Intel Core i7-2600
Motherboard
Gigabyte GA-P67A-UD3P-B3
Memory
12 GB Patriot Extreme DDR3-1333
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia GTX 470
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell UltraSharp 2209WA
Hard Drives
OCZ Agility3 240 GB, WD5001AALS, WD7501AALS
PSU
OCZ ModStream 700W
Case
CoolerMaster HAF 912 Advanced
Cooling
CoolerMaster Hyper 212 Plus
I'll have to get a different make of power supply unit. What are Corsair like and any tips on models to go for?
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Windows 10
the Seasonic isn't available?
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Made
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium x64
CPU
Intel 2500k @4.5ghz 66deg max P95/IBT
Motherboard
Gigabyte Z68A-D3-B3
Memory
8 Gigs Patriot Viper 2 Extreme @1600
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 580 3 GIG 35degrees idle
Sound Card
Nvidia HD audio via HDMI to 7.1 Receiver
Monitor(s) Displays
32" Olevia hdtv
Screen Resolution
1080p
Hard Drives
64gig SSD(OS/Apps)
250gig (Files and Dox)
1tb (imaging and backup)
PSU
Corsair vx550w
Case
Thermaltake V3 black
Cooling
CM 212+(push n pull) 4 case fans
Keyboard
Logitech wireless Combo, G13
Mouse
G300
Internet Speed
40mps
Other Info
Two others up and running; C2D E5200/MSI G41M-P26/Corsair XMS3 8gb/GTS 250 1gb and C2D E8200/xFx 750sli/8gb Corsair Dominator/2x EVGA 550ti
Working on; i2600 Build...
HP DV6
@Work I use a Lenovo 5536B8U + Lenovo U300s
Look for Seasonic, Corsair, or XFX.

Antec if none of those 3 are available.

Some Corsairs are better than others. Some of them are made by Seasonic, which is good.

Depending on your video card, you may not need more than 300 watts.

500 to 550 is enough for any single video card.

But concentrate on the brand name for now.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Ignatz Special; 4 speed manual gearbox; factory air conditioning; one of one
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium SP1, 64-bit
CPU
Intel Skylake i5-6600K, not overclocked
Motherboard
AsRock Z170M Extreme 4, micro ATX
Memory
8 GB HyperX DDR4-2666 (2 x 4 GB)
Graphics Card(s)
none; graphics are integrated on CPU
Sound Card
onboard: Realtek ALC1150; external: USB Behringer UF0-202
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2340M 23 inch IPS
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
System: Crucial MX100 series SSD, 128 GB;
Data: Samsung Spinpoint 103SJ, 1 TB;
Backup: WD Caviar Green WD30EZRX-00D8PB0, 3 TB
PSU
Rosewill SilentNight 500 watt fanless, semi-modular
Case
Antec Solo II
Cooling
Noctua NH-U12S; Noctua F12 intake, Noctua S12A exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft 200 6JH-00001 USB
Mouse
Dell or Microsoft optical wired; USB
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials and Malwarebytes Premium
Browser
Pale Moon
Other Info
All fans PWM; speeds at idle: CPU circa 500 rpm; intake circa 600 rpm; exhaust circa 600 rpm; CPU temps 27 idle and 47 C load in a warm room (27 C/81 F) when running Intel Extreme Tuning Utility stress test.

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Ignatz Special; 4 speed manual gearbox; factory air conditioning; one of one
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium SP1, 64-bit
CPU
Intel Skylake i5-6600K, not overclocked
Motherboard
AsRock Z170M Extreme 4, micro ATX
Memory
8 GB HyperX DDR4-2666 (2 x 4 GB)
Graphics Card(s)
none; graphics are integrated on CPU
Sound Card
onboard: Realtek ALC1150; external: USB Behringer UF0-202
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2340M 23 inch IPS
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
System: Crucial MX100 series SSD, 128 GB;
Data: Samsung Spinpoint 103SJ, 1 TB;
Backup: WD Caviar Green WD30EZRX-00D8PB0, 3 TB
PSU
Rosewill SilentNight 500 watt fanless, semi-modular
Case
Antec Solo II
Cooling
Noctua NH-U12S; Noctua F12 intake, Noctua S12A exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft 200 6JH-00001 USB
Mouse
Dell or Microsoft optical wired; USB
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials and Malwarebytes Premium
Browser
Pale Moon
Other Info
All fans PWM; speeds at idle: CPU circa 500 rpm; intake circa 600 rpm; exhaust circa 600 rpm; CPU temps 27 idle and 47 C load in a warm room (27 C/81 F) when running Intel Extreme Tuning Utility stress test.
Without having time to read all's reply here i will just say i've built 3 now. All have been easy. the first two exceptionally so... just put the parts together, install the OS and it worked.

The latest was somewhat more complicated as I built using the very latest parts. Therefore to get things to work properly i had to learn a few more things such as updating the BIOS, how to migrate an OS over to an SSD and new mobo, getting the peculiarities of an X79 mobo ironed out and the like.

Go for it, it is fun, and so much more staisfying than using a pre-built.

This sight, pcmechbegone, thevideoguys, and mysuperpc were my main resources for the 1st build.
The 2d build I didn't need anything.
3d build I made use of google, this website, and moboforums, and Asus main website until things were satisfactory.

edit---get a fully modular power supply--like one of the XFX platinum certified ones. Lots less cables floating aound in the case by going all modular.
FWIW on all 3 builds I used an antistatic wrist band.


Just swapped out a video card over the weekend tho and forgot all about the wrist band. No harm though.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom build; parts from the Egg
OS
windows 7 Professional 64 Bit
CPU
I7-3930
Motherboard
Asus P9X79 PRO
Memory
G.Skill 4X 4 GB DR3 240 pin 16GB total
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA 670
Sound Card
Energy Take 5, Sennheiser HD 205 phones, X-FI
Monitor(s) Displays
Hanns G 21.5" HH221 and Samsung 19" 940BW and Hannspree
Screen Resolution
2X 1920X1080 and 1X 1440X900
Hard Drives
3-- internal 250 GB WD; 1-- internal 1 TB Samsung ---plus 3 WD external HDs (sizes vary to 1.5 TB); Crucial M4 128GB SSD, 1 Pioneer BDR-207 Bluray writer;
and 1--LG Lightscribe DVD drive
PSU
1000 Watt XFX Pro Series
Case
Thermaltake Chaser
Cooling
Corsair H80
Keyboard
Logitech Wireless and backlit
Mouse
Logitech Rollerball
Other Info
79 " long desk from Ikea. Sauder 71 inch long "speaker" shelf.

Optical and analog outs to a Yamaha RX-V 650 driving Energy Take 5.1 speaker system. Technics TT. Realistic mixer. Senns cans.

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Made
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium x64
CPU
Intel 2500k @4.5ghz 66deg max P95/IBT
Motherboard
Gigabyte Z68A-D3-B3
Memory
8 Gigs Patriot Viper 2 Extreme @1600
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 580 3 GIG 35degrees idle
Sound Card
Nvidia HD audio via HDMI to 7.1 Receiver
Monitor(s) Displays
32" Olevia hdtv
Screen Resolution
1080p
Hard Drives
64gig SSD(OS/Apps)
250gig (Files and Dox)
1tb (imaging and backup)
PSU
Corsair vx550w
Case
Thermaltake V3 black
Cooling
CM 212+(push n pull) 4 case fans
Keyboard
Logitech wireless Combo, G13
Mouse
G300
Internet Speed
40mps
Other Info
Two others up and running; C2D E5200/MSI G41M-P26/Corsair XMS3 8gb/GTS 250 1gb and C2D E8200/xFx 750sli/8gb Corsair Dominator/2x EVGA 550ti
Working on; i2600 Build...
HP DV6
@Work I use a Lenovo 5536B8U + Lenovo U300s
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