Changed BIOS now will not boot windows 7 Ultimate

pawelku

New member
Local time
10:37 PM
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3
Hi Guy,

Yesterday I was attempting to wipe my hard drive as I was putting my laptop for sale. Whilst it was wiping my laptop crashed and would not re boot properly but I was able to access the BIOS . I stupidly changed some settings following some advice on a forum I now cannot find and when I tried to re boot it stays on the philips page for around 10 minutes. None of the keys work, like F12, F2 ect. After ten minutes it give me a screen thats says
1.Insert your Windows installation disc and restart the computer.
2.Choose your language settings, and then click "Next".
3.Click "Repair your computer."

If you do not have this disc, contact your system administrator or computer manufacturer for assistance.

Status: 0xc000000f


This is how I understand it as my system is in Polish and Polish is not my first language and with technical language I am not fluent and I beleive thats how I made the mistake in the first place in the BIOS.

I do not have the disk as I bought it second hand without a disk. I have a windows XP disk which I tried to boot with boot had the same effect.
 
Last edited:

My Computer

OS
windows 7 ultimate 32 bit (without the disk)
What settings did you change? What model laptop is this? Can you get back into the BIOS?
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Apple 17" iMac MA199LL (Early 2006)
OS
Windows 8 Pro (32-bit)
CPU
1.83GHz Intel Core Duo
Memory
2GB 667MHz DDR2 SDRAM (PC2-5300) (upgrade)
Graphics Card(s)
ATI Radeon X1600 with 128MB GDDR3 memory
Monitor(s) Displays
17-inch TFT active-matrix LCD, millions of colors
Screen Resolution
1440 x 900
Hard Drives
Hitachi 320GB HDT721032SLA360 7200RPM SATA II (upgrade)
Keyboard
Microsoft Wired Keyboard 600
Mouse
Microsoft Basic Optical Mouse v2.0
Internet Speed
4 Mbps
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Google Chrome
Other Info
WEI:
Base Score: 3.9 Processor: 4.4 Memory 4.7
Graphics: 3.9 Gaming Graphics: 4.1 Primary HD: 5.9
HI,

Yes, its a Philips 15NB57 series. I am not 100% sure what changes I made. The system is in Polish and I only have around 6 months of living in Poland and technical words I havent even started to learn yet. I thought I was following advice from a forum (which I now cannot find) But since I changed them, I re booted. the laptop starts, fans working ect and the philips screen shows. But it sticks on the philips screen for around 10 minutes. Nothing can change anything. No F keys work. Then after ten minutes it comes to a black screen with this message

1.Insert your Windows installation disc and restart the computer.
2.Choose your language settings, and then click "Next".
3.Click "Repair your computer."

If you do not have this disc, contact your system administrator or computer manufacturer for assistance.

Status: 0xc000000f

There is then the options "enter to continue" and "escape to quit" and when I press enter it starts the whole process again. Even with a windows disk it changes nothing and with a windows recovery disk changes nothing. It just loops around again with the same things.
 

My Computer

OS
windows 7 ultimate 32 bit (without the disk)
You have to go back into the bios and set it to defaults.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Skylake Special #666
OS
Windows 10 Pro x64
CPU
Intel Core i7 6700K
Motherboard
Asus Sabertooth Z170 Mark 1
Memory
GSkill TridentZ RGB 16GB 3600 16-16-16-36
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 980 Ti SC x2
Sound Card
Realtek High Definition
Monitor(s) Displays
AOC G2460PG
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080 144Hz
Hard Drives
Samsung 860 Pro 256GB, Seagate Barracuda 4TB x2
PSU
EVGA 1000 P2, EVGA White Custom Braided Cables
Case
Corsair Vengeance C70 Gunmetal Black
Cooling
Corsair H100i v2, Corsair ML120 x2, Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
Keyboard
Logitech G910 Orion Spectrum
Mouse
Logitech G700s
Internet Speed
Verizon Fios Quantum Gateway 75/75
Antivirus
Windows Defender, Malwarebytes Free 3.8.3
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
Corsair SP120 x4, LG Blu-ray Drive, Durabrand HT-395 100 Watt Dolby Digital Amp, Corsair H2100 Wireless 7.1 Headset
But thats the whole point. I cannot open the BIOS :) Nothing works to enter the BIOS and it also does not boot.
 

My Computer

OS
windows 7 ultimate 32 bit (without the disk)
At this point, I would smash it.:picnic:
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Skylake Special #666
OS
Windows 10 Pro x64
CPU
Intel Core i7 6700K
Motherboard
Asus Sabertooth Z170 Mark 1
Memory
GSkill TridentZ RGB 16GB 3600 16-16-16-36
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 980 Ti SC x2
Sound Card
Realtek High Definition
Monitor(s) Displays
AOC G2460PG
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080 144Hz
Hard Drives
Samsung 860 Pro 256GB, Seagate Barracuda 4TB x2
PSU
EVGA 1000 P2, EVGA White Custom Braided Cables
Case
Corsair Vengeance C70 Gunmetal Black
Cooling
Corsair H100i v2, Corsair ML120 x2, Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
Keyboard
Logitech G910 Orion Spectrum
Mouse
Logitech G700s
Internet Speed
Verizon Fios Quantum Gateway 75/75
Antivirus
Windows Defender, Malwarebytes Free 3.8.3
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
Corsair SP120 x4, LG Blu-ray Drive, Durabrand HT-395 100 Watt Dolby Digital Amp, Corsair H2100 Wireless 7.1 Headset
But thats the whole point. I cannot open the BIOS :) Nothing works to enter the BIOS and it also does not boot.

That is what confuses me. No matter what, you should be able to get into the BIOS and change it unless you enabled password protection.


You may still be able to reset it by killing the CMOS battery. I don't know how to remove it for that model, but if you disconnect the main battery and AC power and hold the power button for 30 seconds, that may do it.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Apple 17" iMac MA199LL (Early 2006)
OS
Windows 8 Pro (32-bit)
CPU
1.83GHz Intel Core Duo
Memory
2GB 667MHz DDR2 SDRAM (PC2-5300) (upgrade)
Graphics Card(s)
ATI Radeon X1600 with 128MB GDDR3 memory
Monitor(s) Displays
17-inch TFT active-matrix LCD, millions of colors
Screen Resolution
1440 x 900
Hard Drives
Hitachi 320GB HDT721032SLA360 7200RPM SATA II (upgrade)
Keyboard
Microsoft Wired Keyboard 600
Mouse
Microsoft Basic Optical Mouse v2.0
Internet Speed
4 Mbps
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Google Chrome
Other Info
WEI:
Base Score: 3.9 Processor: 4.4 Memory 4.7
Graphics: 3.9 Gaming Graphics: 4.1 Primary HD: 5.9

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Bruce ... somewhere in his 40's
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 32bit SP1
CPU
Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Quad CPU @ 2.40GHz, 2400 MHz
Motherboard
INTEL/D975XBX2
Memory
4 GB
Graphics Card(s)
ATI Radeon HD 2600 Pro
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung SyncMaster 914v
Screen Resolution
1280 x 1024
Hard Drives
2/500GB each ... ST3500630AS ATA Device.
One is not connected
PSU
Rocketfish 700 W
Case
G.Skill Gigabyte Chassis
Keyboard
Standard PS/2 Keyboard
Mouse
Microsoft PS/2 Mouse
Internet Speed
DSL
Antivirus
Avira Internet Security
Browser
IE 11
Other Info
ATI HDMI Audio
Hi
I agree with gregrocker, the only way out of this is to reset the CMOS. On desktops this is nearly always accomplished by removing the battery and shifting a jumper to the reset position for maybe 10 seconds or longer, then reversing the procedure. I don't know how to acheive this on your model of laptop, and this is where you are going to have to do some research.
Good luck!!
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self build
OS
windows 7 professional 64 bit
CPU
AMD FX6100 Bulldozer
Motherboard
Asus M5A88-M Evo
Memory
Crucial Vengeance CML16GX3M4A1600 (16gb)
Graphics Card(s)
Asus ENGT520Silent/D1/1GD3
Sound Card
Non Fitted
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung S23A300B 23" LED
Hard Drives
boot (C) SSD Crucial CT128M4 (128gb)
(E) Seagate Barracuda 2gb 7200rpm
PSU
Corsair CMPSU-850HX
Case
Aerocool PGS Q-Series Qs-200
Cooling
4x Akasa AK-FN07 Apache. Ctrld by NXZT Sentry2
As it's often difficult to reach the CMOS battery in a laptop (google your model to see) then I would make every effort to get the disk to boot. Make sure the disk in question is bootable in another PC just to be sure.

If all else fails I would boot the maker's HD Diagnostic extended CD scan to test the HD, then use the disk's Quick Wipe function to wipe the HD. Another option is free Partition Wizard CD which boots itself.

This will cause the Win7 DVD to boot itself so that you can Clean Reinstall - Factory OEM Windows 7 with the licensed version.
 
you might be able to drain the CMOS battery...

On some systems you can drain it by removing the main battery and ac cord, then holding the power button for 30 seconds.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Apple 17" iMac MA199LL (Early 2006)
OS
Windows 8 Pro (32-bit)
CPU
1.83GHz Intel Core Duo
Memory
2GB 667MHz DDR2 SDRAM (PC2-5300) (upgrade)
Graphics Card(s)
ATI Radeon X1600 with 128MB GDDR3 memory
Monitor(s) Displays
17-inch TFT active-matrix LCD, millions of colors
Screen Resolution
1440 x 900
Hard Drives
Hitachi 320GB HDT721032SLA360 7200RPM SATA II (upgrade)
Keyboard
Microsoft Wired Keyboard 600
Mouse
Microsoft Basic Optical Mouse v2.0
Internet Speed
4 Mbps
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Google Chrome
Other Info
WEI:
Base Score: 3.9 Processor: 4.4 Memory 4.7
Graphics: 3.9 Gaming Graphics: 4.1 Primary HD: 5.9
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