Core i5 2500K running hot, causing BSOD 124?

[playXray]

Hi guys,

I think my Core i5 2500K is running too hot and causing a BSOD in Handbrake when encoding large files. I've been leaving my PC on overnight to recode some MKVs for my Plex server, but every couple of nights it will turn itself off or reboot after what is apparently a BSOD error.

The main error report I see when logging back into Windows says:

Problem signature:
Problem Event Name: BlueScreen
OS Version: 6.1.7601.2.1.0.256.1
Locale ID: 2057
Additional information about the problem:
BCCode: 124
BCP1: 0000000000000000
BCP2: FFFFFA8009AE3028
BCP3: 00000000BE200000
BCP4: 000000000005110A
OS Version: 6_1_7601
Service Pack: 1_0
Product: 256_1
Files that help describe the problem:
C:\Windows\Minidump\051112-12698-01.dmp
C:\Users\Ray\AppData\Local\Temp\WER-62572-0.sysdata.xml
Read our privacy statement online:
http://go.microsoft....88&clcid=0x0409
If the online privacy statement is not available, please read our privacy statement offline:
C:\Windows\system32\en-US\erofflps.txt

I started another file encoding on Handbrake and then ran HWMonitor to check the temps. The CPU is running at over 90C, which seems pretty bad to me. I turned off Handbrake and the temps immediately dropped to 50C. You can see what HWMonitor was showing under load here:

I have uploaded the full HWMonitor.txt report here.

I think I'm running at standard speeds, but to be honest I can't remember whether my Asus motherboard's "optimised O/C mode" is running and I didn't have time to check before I left for work this morning. I'm running a stock cooler in a well ventilated Coolermaster case that has, until now, provided decent cooling even under sustained heavy loads. I've not had chance to double check the CPU cooler but I'm usually very careful to make sure they're fitted properly.

The Windows crash report files are below but I don't know how to open the .dmp file without it turning into gibberish:

WER-62572-0.sysdata

051112-12698-01.dmp

Do you think the CPU is causing the BSOD error?

Any tips/advice would be much appreciated. Thanks.

 

[JMH]

No readable DMP included.
Do it this way...


We do need the DMP file as it contains the only record of the sequence of events leading up to the crash, what drivers were loaded, and what was responsible.

If you are overclocking STOP.

You may be able to get the DMP files without crashing by booting into safe mode (F8) with networking.

To enable us to assist you with your computer's BSOD symptoms, upload the contents of your "\Windows\Minidump" folder.

The procedure:

* Copy the contents of \Windows\Minidump to another (temporary) location somewhere on your machine.
* Zip up the copy.
* Attach the ZIP archive to your post using the "paperclip" (file attachments) button.
*If the files are too large please upload them to a file sharing service like "Rapidshare" and put a link to them in your reply.

To ensure minidumps are enabled:

* Go to Start, in the Search Box type: sysdm.cpl, press Enter.
* Under the Advanced tab, click on the Startup and Recovery Settings... button.
* Ensure that Automatically restart is unchecked.
* Under the Write Debugging Information header select Small memory dump (256 kB) in the dropdown box (the 256kb varies).
* Ensure that the Small Dump Directory is listed as %systemroot%\Minidump.
* OK your way out.
* Reboot if changes have been made.

 

[playXray]

Sorry that's my mistake. I've corrected the URL in my original post but here it is again for convenience: 051112-12698-01.dmp

 

[JMH]

Sorry that's my mistake. I've corrected the URL in my original post but here it is again for convenience: 051112-12698-01.dmp

Again not readable...
Please try again the way I listed in Post 2.
Pay particular attention to the parts in colour.

What version of Handbrake do you have?

 

[playXray]

It's the lastest version of Handbrake, I can't remember the exact number though.

Strange that the file's not readable again - the first time I just mistyped the URL, but now that it's working I don't understand why the file is not readable. How should I be able to open the file?

I'm at work at the moment so unfortunately I can't get access to the original file again until this evening.

 

[JMH]

Understood.
We await the DMP's as per Post 2 asap.

 

[zigzag3143]

No need to compress (zip the files) Why arent you uploading them here?

This is what they look like now

 

[playXray]

Sorry, I didn't realise I could upload stuff directly here. I've attached it to this message. Thanks!

 

[playXray]

Does this mean anything?

crash dump file: C:\Windows\Minidump\051112-12698-01.dmp
This was probably caused by the following module: hal.dll (hal+0x12A3B)
Bugcheck code: 0x124 (0x0, 0xFFFFFA8009AE3028, 0xBE200000, 0x5110A)
Error: WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR
file path: C:\Windows\system32\hal.dll
product: Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
company: Microsoft Corporation
description: Hardware Abstraction Layer DLL
Bug check description: This bug check indicates that a fatal hardware error has occurred. This bug check uses the error data that is provided by the Windows Hardware Error Architecture (WHEA).
This is likely to be caused by a hardware problem problem. This problem might be caused by a thermal issue.
The crash took place in a standard Microsoft module. Your system configuration may be incorrect. Possibly this problem is caused by another driver on your system which cannot be identified at this time.

 

[James7679]

hello playxray. Your temperatures on your CPU are extremely out of range and need to be handled immediately. If you do not, you will fry your processor. If your processor has been already reaching these temps for an extended period, then there may already be damage that has shortened the expected life of your CPU. First, under your post is a tab that reads "My System Specs". Please select it and then select edit and accurately fill out the information there. If you are unsure of what you have. please use Speccy to get the information. Also, please let us know what type of cooling you have. Are you using the factory heat sink fan or aftermarket, if aftermarket what make and model. Be sure to give us the make and model of the case.

Also, to start, open up your case and see if there is an excess, or any amount for that matter, of dust. If so, using a can of compressed air, clean it out thoroughly.

Thanks,

James

 

[playXray]

Thanks James, I've done that. I don't think it's dust/dried paste as this system is only 3 months old. At the moment it looks likely to be either a faulty PSU, or a badly seated cooler, but there are plenty of other possibilities!

 

[James7679]

Okay, lets try re-seating the heat-sink fan. First, follow these guidelines before any work;
1. It is a good idea to buy an anti-static wristband, and follow the instructions for use.(They are sold at most electronics stores.) If you are going to do quite a lot of bench work, you might do well to invest in an anti-static mat.
2. If you don't have a wristband, you are not necessarily out of luck. Assuming that your PC is grounded, you can ground yourself by just keeping one hand in contact with the bare metal frame (not a painted or coated surface) of the computer case. Keep the PC power cord plugged in to a (3-prong) grounded outlet and turn off the rocker switch on the back of the power supply. If the power supply does not have a switch on the back, this won't work, however. Never work on a PC with the power on. In that case, you should buy an anti-static band or try another method of grounding.
3. As an alternative, alter a standard 3-conductor power cord by snipping off the two flat blades, leaving only the grounding portion of the plug. Or simply purchase a cord like this from an electronics supply house. This accomplishes the same thing as turning off the rocker switch.
4. You can employ an LCD Static Discharger. As a simple measure, you can hang it on your key ring and just dangle it. This is less reliable, but when it touches a ground, it should discharge the static electricity. Procedure：①Lightly touch the oval button with a finger. ②Make sure that the end of the conductive material touches a grounded conductor. (such as vehicle, human body, computer, metal or other) to release static electricity, and observe the LCD display.
5. Some people claim that damage can be reduced by wearing little or no clothing, it is said that the less cloth that is in contact with your body, the less static is produced, though these claims remain unproven.

The average person can carry up to 25,000 volts of static energy at any given time. This sounds like a lot, but because the current level is low, you usually won't notice it. Follow safe ESD procedures any time you open a computer.

If the equipment is cold, wait until it has reached room temperature. ESD builds up much faster when it's cold and dry (low humidity).

If you don't take steps to prevent ESD, you may regret it. Your computer can sustain serious damage without you knowing it. CPUs and memory chips of any kind are highly vulnerable to ESD. If you fry your PC with static electricity, you may soon start to notice random memory errors, blue screens, and lock-ups. Normally, you can't see (or even feel) ESD, but it is almost always there, so be sure to do the right thing. Your PC will thank you!

Try not to open up computers while on thick carpets, petting long-haired pets, dressing, emptying the dryer, etc. Use common sense; don't do anything that would cause you to get a shock from touching something made of metal.

Okay, now, the locking pins on the factory h.s.f. can be tricky. If they are not locked in all the way the heat-sink may not be making proper contact, thus allowing thermal overload. Test each pin and ensure that they are indeed locked in correctly, if your case has a cpu base access in the MoBo tray, you can also see if they are protruding through the back and locked properly. If you find that they are not locked correctly, ensure that they become locked. If you find that the h.s.f. is mounted securely, or if it is not and you lock it down properly and the heat is still an issue, then you will need to remove the h.s.f. and clean the base of it off and the top of the cpu off and reapply the thermal paste. Use Isopropyl Alcohol and a coffee filter to clean the surfaces. Once they are dry, you can the apply a small amount of thermal paste(most recommend Artic Silver 5), about the size of a pea, onto the top center of the cpu. Then, reinstall the h.s.f. assy, keep a small amount of pressure on it until you are sure that all of the pins are locked in properly. If you feel any lift when you are installing the h.s.f., then you will need to re-clean and start over. When you lift, it is possible for an air pocket to form in the paste and this will cause thermal issues. If you need further advice on installing your h.s.f. then here are a couple of links.

Arctic Silver, Inc. - Instructions
Maximum PC | How-To: Properly Apply Thermal Paste and Install a CPU
Thermal Paste and How To Use It

 

[playXray]

Thanks James, I'll give it a go and I'll let you know how I get on!

 

[playXray]

Ok guys well the hot CPU *seems* to have been resolved. It turns out that the "optimised" mode was enabled in the BIOS. I disabled this, and now temps are running at an average of about 70C, peaking at 76C briefly, and I've been recoding files for about an hour. Certainly nowhere near the 90C I was getting this morning after 20 minutes.

I've got a few more files to go through tonight so I'll leave it on again and if it's not crashed by the morning I guess it's safe to say the problem has been resolved.

Thanks for all the help guys.

 

[James7679]

Ok guys well the hot CPU *seems* to have been resolved. It turns out that the "optimised" mode was enabled in the BIOS. I disabled this, and now temps are running at an average of about 70C, peaking at 76C briefly, and I've been recoding files for about an hour. Certainly nowhere near the 90C I was getting this morning after 20 minutes.

I've got a few more files to go through tonight so I'll leave it on again and if it's not crashed by the morning I guess it's safe to say the problem has been resolved.

Thanks for all the help guys.

NOPE! STILL NOT GOOD! 75 degrees is about the max you ever want to hit. My 2500k, well, look at my specs...

 

[playXray]

Well I'll leave it on overnight to see what it gets up to. If I still get problems then I'll come back, otherwise I think it'll be ok. The cores are still averaging 71/72/69/67 and the "package" is 70C. I have no idea what a "package" is. These temps are all from HWMonitor again.

 

[James7679]

Well I'll leave it on overnight to see what it gets up to. If I still get problems then I'll come back, otherwise I think it'll be ok. The cores are still averaging 71/72/69/67 and the "package" is 70C. I have no idea what a "package" is. These temps are all from HWMonitor again.

Sure thing. Here is the specs for you. Please note, under the package specifications, the TCase temp, is your max temp.

Good luck.

James