Desktop will not POST, sometimes takes hours

Deathgazer

New member
Local time
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The PC is fairly new, got it around Feb. This has happened a few times, about a month or so between each other, usually while I'm afk.

I come back, screen is black from going into sleep mode I guess, although it seems to be frozen. PC is on but moving the mouse or hitting a key etc does nothing, forcing me to do a kill the power to it via the switch in the back. Holding the power button does nothing.

And then... it just refuses to POST. The mobo light is on, but nothing happens when I try and boot the PC up. Pushing the power button does absolutely nothing. First time it seemed to finally post up, randomly by itself about 15-30 minutes after I hit the power button. Another time it took about an hour to boot after I hit the power button and left it alone. This time it took many hours. This has happened around 3 times after I got it, starting around 3+ months after I've had it. I've replaced the RAM, and the CMOS battery (I was getting CMOS SETTINGS WRONG, Date/Time not set for awhile)

Once it finally powers on, the fans kick in, the lights turn on, it boots up just fine. Problem is getting it to start up in the first place.
PC is on 24/7. I have never overclocked. The room does get hot sometimes, texas heat and summer time, if that matters.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom
OS
Windows 7 64-bit OEM
CPU
i7 920 (stock)
Motherboard
Asus Sabertooth x58
Memory
6GB Triple Channel
Graphics Card(s)
XFX HD 6870
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus 23.6" x2
Screen Resolution
3960x1080
Hard Drives
1TB
PSU
1200 watt
Case
Lancool Lian Li
Cooling
Good air cooling
Keyboard
G510
Mouse
G9x
Internet Speed
Cable
Other Info
Last format: February 3, 2012
Antivirus: Avast Internet Security
Have you done a 'repair' install?
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Bruce ... somewhere in his 40's
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 32bit SP1
CPU
Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Quad CPU @ 2.40GHz, 2400 MHz
Motherboard
INTEL/D975XBX2
Memory
4 GB
Graphics Card(s)
ATI Radeon HD 2600 Pro
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung SyncMaster 914v
Screen Resolution
1280 x 1024
Hard Drives
2/500GB each ... ST3500630AS ATA Device.
One is not connected
PSU
Rocketfish 700 W
Case
G.Skill Gigabyte Chassis
Keyboard
Standard PS/2 Keyboard
Mouse
Microsoft PS/2 Mouse
Internet Speed
DSL
Antivirus
Avira Internet Security
Browser
IE 11
Other Info
ATI HDMI Audio
PC is on 24/7. I have never overclocked. The room does get hot sometimes, texas heat and summer time, if that matters.

I bet 2 mcDonalds cheeseburgers that this will be the cause.

You'll need to keep it cooler. :cool:
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Enterprise
CPU
Intel Pentium Dual E2200 @2.2GHz
Motherboard
Gigabyte II-G31
Memory
4GB
Graphics Card(s)
Palit GForce 9500GT 1GB
Sound Card
onBoard
Hard Drives
WesternDigital: 250GB + 1TB + 1TB + 2TB
PSU
450W
Case
CoolerMaster CM690
Cooling
Corsair H50
Mouse
Logitech MX518
Do me a favour, When U get a chance to boot up again, Hit "del" button, go to BIOS and tell me d temp of ur CPU!!!!!

We can go from there mate!!!
 

My Computer

OS
Windows XP Home, Professional, Media CenterWindows 7 Home, Professional, Ultimate
After checking the temps, (assuming they look good), see what happens when you try Safe Mode. If things run smoothly then you likely either have a bad driver or startup program which is holding things up.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self
OS
Main - Windows 7 Pro SP1 64-Bit; 2nd - Windows Server 2008 R2
CPU
Main - Core i7 2600K; 2nd - Core i7 920
Motherboard
Main - Asus P8Z68-V Pro/Gen3; 2nd - Gigabyte GA-EX58-UDR3
Memory
Main - 16GB Corsair Vengeance; 2nd - 12GB Corsair Vengeance
Graphics Card(s)
Main - XFX Radeon 6870 1GB; 2nd - XFX Radeon 4870 1GB
Sound Card
Both: Onboard Realtek Azalia
Monitor(s) Displays
Main - Hann 25" + I-INC 25" + Acer 23"; 2nd - Upgrading Soon
Screen Resolution
Main - 1920x1080 (All Three Monitors); 2nd - Upgrading Soon
Hard Drives
Main - (1) Crucial M4 128GB (Boot)
Main - (1) Seagate 2TB 64MB Cache (Data)
Main - (1) Seagate 2TB 64MB Cache (Data Backup)
2nd - (1) Intel X25-M SSD 80GB (Boot)
2nd - (3) Seagate 1TB 32MB Cache (Data Backup)
2nd - (1) Seagate 320GB (Because)
PSU
Main - OCZ 600W Modular; 2nd - OCZ 600W
Case
Main - Thermaltake Element G; 2nd - NZXT something or other
Cooling
Main - Corsair H80; 2nd - Prolimatech Megahalems
Keyboard
Main - Razer Reclusa; 2nd - Old MS Keyboard
Mouse
Main - Logitech MX Revolution; 2nd - Old MS Mouse
Internet Speed
20Mbps Time-Warner Cable
Maybe hardware damage due to overheating, also the PC running 24/7 in the heat doesn't sound best for a computer.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom
OS
Windows 8 Professional 64-bit
CPU
Intel Core i3-2100
Motherboard
ASRock Intel Z68M/USB3
Memory
4GB
Graphics Card(s)
GeForece GTX 550 Ti
Screen Resolution
1680 x 1050
PSU
750w
Guys, why are you giving suggestions about Safe Mode and repairing Windows? Get real and read. He said the computer WON'T POST. The last I checked, Windows has nothing to do with whether your system will post or not.

To the OP...unplug ALL USB devices and try to start from no power. I'll bet you'll start right up.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate RTM (Technet)
CPU
3.00 gigahertz Intel Core2 Duo E8400
Motherboard
ASUSTeK Computer INC. P5K/EPU Rev 1.xx
Memory
4GB
Graphics Card(s)
ATI Radeon X1950 Pro
Sound Card
Built in HD Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
22" Gateway LCD
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1200
Hard Drives
ST3160023A [Hard drive] (160.04 GB) -- drive 0, rev 8.01, ST3500630AS [Hard drive] (500.11 GB) -- drive 2, rev 3.AAK
ST3500630AS [Hard drive] (500.11 GB) -- drive 1, rev 3.AAK
Keyboard
Logitech G11
Mouse
Microsoft Wireless Laser Mouse 5000
Internet Speed
13.44 Mbps
Guys, why are you giving suggestions about Safe Mode and repairing Windows? Get real and read. He said the computer WON'T POST. The last I checked, Windows has nothing to do with whether your system will post or not.

To the OP...unplug ALL USB devices and try to start from no power. I'll bet you'll start right up.
What does it mean when a computer won't "POST"? :o I've never heard of that term.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom
OS
Windows 8 Professional 64-bit
CPU
Intel Core i3-2100
Motherboard
ASRock Intel Z68M/USB3
Memory
4GB
Graphics Card(s)
GeForece GTX 550 Ti
Screen Resolution
1680 x 1050
PSU
750w
POST stands for Power On Self Test. It's a function built into the BIOS on the motherboard. If it fails one of more of the checks you may get an error message , usually a series of beep codes, or in a really bad situation a blank or black screen. All this takes place before the operating system is loaded. Usually when the POST is finished you hear one short beep and then the OS starts to load. That is if you have a speaker connected to your motherboard. If you didn't have a speaker you could easily confuse a failed or stalled OS load with a failed post if you weren't watching too closely. Especially if it's the video card or driver thats throwing a wrench into things.
If it was me I would take the side of off the case and make sure there is no buildup of dust and clean things up if need be. Then I would power things up and try to get into the BIOS menu to check temps. While you have the side off make sure all the fans are running, especially the one on the CPU and video card.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built
OS
Windows 10 Education 64 bit
CPU
AMD Phenom II X4 980 Black Edition Deneb 3.7GHz
Motherboard
Asus M4N68T-M V2 µATX Motherboard
Memory
8GB 4GBx2 Kingston PC10600 DDR3 1333 Memory
Graphics Card(s)
Zotac NVIDIA Geforce GT640 2 Gig DDR3 PCIe
Sound Card
VIA VT1708s High Definition Audio 8-channel Onboard
Monitor(s) Displays
22" LG E2242 1080p and 2 19" I-INC AG191D
Screen Resolution
1280x1024 - 1920x1080 - 1280x1024
Hard Drives
Crucial M100 256 GB SSD and 500 GB WD Blue SATA
PSU
Thermaltake TR 620
Case
Power Up Black ATX Mid-Tower Case
Cooling
Stock heatsink and fan
Keyboard
Logitech Wireless K350 Wave
Mouse
Logitech Wireless M570 Trackman Wheel
Internet Speed
80 Mbps Down 30 Mbps Up
Antivirus
Windows Defender
Browser
Internet Explorer 11
Other Info
HP DVD1040e Lightscribe - External USB2
Guys, why are you giving suggestions about Safe Mode and repairing Windows? Get real and read. He said the computer WON'T POST. The last I checked, Windows has nothing to do with whether your system will post or not.

To the OP...unplug ALL USB devices and try to start from no power. I'll bet you'll start right up.

I was wondering the same thing. I was thinking I missed something.

The only time I've seen something similar is when my laptop takes about 3 minutes to post as opposed to the 4 seconds it usually takes. A few times now I have cut off my computer without letting windows load up all the way, and when ever I do this it takes awhile longer to POST. It might be that your bios is triple checking everything, but I'm not really sure what causes it. My only other guess is that your motherboard might be messed up. Not really sure how to help besides helping you find some cheap replacement options if you go that route.
 

My Computer

Computer type
Laptop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Toshiba P775-S7100
OS
Windows 7 Professional SP1 64-bit
CPU
Intel Core i5-2450M @2.5 GHz
Memory
6 GB DDR3 1333MHz
Graphics Card(s)
Intel HD 3000
Monitor(s) Displays
Built-in 17.3" LED; 22" Insignia NS-L22Q-10A
Screen Resolution
1600x900; 1360x768
Hard Drives
750 GB Hitachi
1TB Seagate FreeAgent External
Internet Speed
Verizon DSL Speed(Down/Up): 3360 Kbps / 800 Kbps
Antivirus
MSE and MBAM Pro
Browser
IE10
POST stands for Power On Self Test. It's a function built into the BIOS on the motherboard. If it fails one of more of the checks you may get an error message , usually a series of beep codes, or in a really bad situation a blank or black screen. All this takes place before the operating system is loaded. Usually when the POST is finished you hear one short beep and then the OS starts to load. That is if you have a speaker connected to your motherboard. If you didn't have a speaker you could easily confuse a failed or stalled OS load with a failed post if you weren't watching too closely. Especially if it's the video card or driver thats throwing a wrench into things.
If it was me I would take the side of off the case and make sure there is no buildup of dust and clean things up if need be. Then I would power things up and try to get into the BIOS menu to check temps. While you have the side off make sure all the fans are running, especially the one on the CPU and video card.

Thanks, now I know.:geek:
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom
OS
Windows 8 Professional 64-bit
CPU
Intel Core i3-2100
Motherboard
ASRock Intel Z68M/USB3
Memory
4GB
Graphics Card(s)
GeForece GTX 550 Ti
Screen Resolution
1680 x 1050
PSU
750w
It'd be nice to hear from the OP as to whether my suggestion was tried.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate RTM (Technet)
CPU
3.00 gigahertz Intel Core2 Duo E8400
Motherboard
ASUSTeK Computer INC. P5K/EPU Rev 1.xx
Memory
4GB
Graphics Card(s)
ATI Radeon X1950 Pro
Sound Card
Built in HD Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
22" Gateway LCD
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1200
Hard Drives
ST3160023A [Hard drive] (160.04 GB) -- drive 0, rev 8.01, ST3500630AS [Hard drive] (500.11 GB) -- drive 2, rev 3.AAK
ST3500630AS [Hard drive] (500.11 GB) -- drive 1, rev 3.AAK
Keyboard
Logitech G11
Mouse
Microsoft Wireless Laser Mouse 5000
Internet Speed
13.44 Mbps
I still think its running too hot.
But Macgyver's suggestion of disconnecting USB devices also makes sense; I've noticed on an XP netbook, that bootup from power off takes a while when a USB flash drive is plugged in. Devices like our gaming controller and mouse hasnt really affected the bootup time.

Another suggestion would be to confirm there is an internal speaker attached. Most older mobo's have an onboard squarker. If your's has neither than you most certainly wont get the POST beeps which is the first point of troubleshooting a POST test.

Failing that, make sure your video card and ram are all properly seated. These are both show-stoppers if one or the other(s) are faulty. I doubt this is the case as it does eventually boot up, but its good to know anyway.
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Enterprise
CPU
Intel Pentium Dual E2200 @2.2GHz
Motherboard
Gigabyte II-G31
Memory
4GB
Graphics Card(s)
Palit GForce 9500GT 1GB
Sound Card
onBoard
Hard Drives
WesternDigital: 250GB + 1TB + 1TB + 2TB
PSU
450W
Case
CoolerMaster CM690
Cooling
Corsair H50
Mouse
Logitech MX518
"But Macgyver's suggestion of disconnecting USB devices also makes sense" Yup. One time I went to reboot a laptop with an ipod shuffle connected to a usb hub and it would not post.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit
I would say if unplugging everything doesn't POST right up, then you got a bad Mobo, or the BIOS is corrupt.

Either way, if this thing was only purchased back in Feb, why not start looking into getting it fixed per your warranty?
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HP Pavilion dv7
OS
Windows 7
CPU
Core i7
Memory
8 GB
Graphics Card(s)
ATI FireGL
Monitor(s) Displays
Secondary is an HP L1940T
Screen Resolution
1680x1050
Hard Drives
160 GB SSD and 500 GB SATA
Keyboard
G11 Logitech
Mouse
G7 Logitech
Internet Speed
Fiber
Other Info
My rig smegging rules!
The warranty still costs me shipping, which is a lot with this thing. Plus the downtime.

The PC finally managed to boot up after a few hours. But thanks for the info I'll be sure and try unplugging all the devices etc next time it does this. Using CPUID HW, idling the temps range around 111F, although 'TMPIN1' is around 170F, not sure what that is with this program. But these are also with me around and the AC unit on high. When I go afk the AC goes off and it can get hot in there.

RAM and GPU have been reseated before.
Also, just to clarify, it doesn't take long for the computer to boot/load up, it's just getting it to power on in the first place (whenever this occurs).

And one other thing I noticed is when it finally booted on I did receive the CMOS SETTINGS WRONG, DATE/TIME NOT SET screen again. I re-set it in the bios although I'm not sure why I still get this msg, since I've replaced the cmos battery twice.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom
OS
Windows 7 64-bit OEM
CPU
i7 920 (stock)
Motherboard
Asus Sabertooth x58
Memory
6GB Triple Channel
Graphics Card(s)
XFX HD 6870
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus 23.6" x2
Screen Resolution
3960x1080
Hard Drives
1TB
PSU
1200 watt
Case
Lancool Lian Li
Cooling
Good air cooling
Keyboard
G510
Mouse
G9x
Internet Speed
Cable
Other Info
Last format: February 3, 2012
Antivirus: Avast Internet Security
I am going to say that this is NOT an overheating problem.

I WILL say this:
When you boot up again, make sure to get into the BIOS. Hit delete or F1 or whatever key it is.
Then RESET your BIOS settings.

I bet that either a USB device (as said) is causing a problem, or the sleep setting in the BIOS is wrong and messed it all up.

If resetting the BIOS does not fix it, then we will have to get into the hardware and start pulling stuff.

~Lordbob
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Hera
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64, Mint 9
CPU
Intel i5-2500k
Motherboard
ASUS P8P67 Pro
Memory
2x 4Gb Corsair VENGEANCE DDR3-1600
Graphics Card(s)
NVidia GeForce N260GTX Twin Frozr
Sound Card
Realtek HD OnBoard Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
ASUS 24" Monitor
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
G.SKILL Phoenix Series 60GB SATA II MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3R 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA II
PSU
Cooler Master Real Power Pro 750W
Case
Cooler Master Haf 932
Cooling
Fans
Keyboard
Razer Tarantula
Mouse
Razer Lachesis
Internet Speed
not fast enough
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