Help Me Max Out Performance on this PC!

AMD or Intel Machine for Games?


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IaskQuestions

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Hello guys. This is my first post in a long time. But straight to the point i guess.

You can read the specifications on my Win7Forums profile or go here Dell Inspiron 530 - Core 2 Quad Q6600 2.4 GHz - Desktops - CNET Archive
If that is not the correct site for the specs I've provided on my Win7forums profile posting a better or more up to date one would be appreciated

What I need is information on finding upgrades that will be the fastest and the most efficient one i can find including the best brand (perfomance and compatibility wise) starting with the graphics card and the power supply.

Basically i want to push this machine to its limits (But not close to breaking point)

So please help with Finding the best Brand Graphics Card, Power Supply, and type of RAM for maximum performance.

This Will be a learning experience for me and ya'lls recommondations will most likely be what i go with. Then i can let ya'll know how it goes :D

This is all preparation for the first computer i build from the ground up

Last time i was on here i got a lot of help. Hope to hear from you soon.

Happy Holidays
 
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My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dell Inspiron Q6600
OS
Windows 7 64 Bit
CPU
Intel Core2 Quad 2.4
Motherboard
Intel G33 Express
Memory
2GB
Graphics Card(s)
Will Update
Sound Card
Onboard
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung SyncMaster181T
PSU
300w
Keyboard
Logitech G15
Mouse
Logitech G7
Internet Speed
Crappy (changing that soon)
Other Info
What other info could i possibly put? The other stuff i left out? Who cares. =)
a better psu....300watts will not go far.....I don't know if your Dell case has a special/funky psu or not, or if it can be modified to take a standard atx psu
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom
OS
windows 10 pro 64 bit
CPU
i5 4690K@4500 COOLER MASTER Seidon 120M water cooler
Motherboard
ASUS SABERTOOTH Z87 LGA 1150 Intel
Memory
16gb Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 sc
Monitor(s) Displays
BenQ GL2760H Black 27" 2ms HDMI Widescreen LED 1920X1080
Screen Resolution
DSR 2103X1183
Hard Drives
ADATA 256 gig SSD + 4 junk
PSU
EVGA supernova 750
Case
coolermaster
Cooling
many...
Keyboard
z merc
Mouse
Logitech wireless G602
Internet Speed
2.5mbs cable
Response

a better psu....300watts will not go far.....I don't know if your Dell case has a special/funky psu or not, or if it can be modified to take a standard atx psu

I am actually about to dust out the computer right now i will see if the psu can be changed. i was reading up on the situation on came across something like what you just mentioned... Hopefully your still on =)
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dell Inspiron Q6600
OS
Windows 7 64 Bit
CPU
Intel Core2 Quad 2.4
Motherboard
Intel G33 Express
Memory
2GB
Graphics Card(s)
Will Update
Sound Card
Onboard
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung SyncMaster181T
PSU
300w
Keyboard
Logitech G15
Mouse
Logitech G7
Internet Speed
Crappy (changing that soon)
Other Info
What other info could i possibly put? The other stuff i left out? Who cares. =)
At one time, Dell PCs had non-standard power supply connectors, but I am not sure if that is still true. You could check a Dell forum to confirm one way or another.

I wouldn't consider a new power supply unless I upgraded the graphics card, and even then I might not--it just depends on big of a jump you make.

If you decide to change power supplies, the default high quality brands are Seasonic and Corsair--and maybe some of the Antec brand. Most power supplies you see sold are just rebranded. In reality, there aren't many power supply manufacturers.

The modern tendency is to buy an 800 watt power supply when the PC doesn't use over 350 or 400 at full load, since even a child knows that 800 of anything is better than 400. Resist that if you are able.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Ignatz Special; 4 speed manual gearbox; factory air conditioning; one of one
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium SP1, 64-bit
CPU
Intel Skylake i5-6600K, not overclocked
Motherboard
AsRock Z170M Extreme 4, micro ATX
Memory
8 GB HyperX DDR4-2666 (2 x 4 GB)
Graphics Card(s)
none; graphics are integrated on CPU
Sound Card
onboard: Realtek ALC1150; external: USB Behringer UF0-202
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2340M 23 inch IPS
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
System: Crucial MX100 series SSD, 128 GB;
Data: Samsung Spinpoint 103SJ, 1 TB;
Backup: WD Caviar Green WD30EZRX-00D8PB0, 3 TB
PSU
Rosewill SilentNight 500 watt fanless, semi-modular
Case
Antec Solo II
Cooling
Noctua NH-U12S; Noctua F12 intake, Noctua S12A exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft 200 6JH-00001 USB
Mouse
Dell or Microsoft optical wired; USB
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials and Malwarebytes Premium
Browser
Pale Moon
Other Info
All fans PWM; speeds at idle: CPU circa 500 rpm; intake circa 600 rpm; exhaust circa 600 rpm; CPU temps 27 idle and 47 C load in a warm room (27 C/81 F) when running Intel Extreme Tuning Utility stress test.
a better psu....300watts will not go far.....I don't know if your Dell case has a special/funky psu or not, or if it can be modified to take a standard atx psu

OK so, I took off the panel that is meant to come off on the left side. The other panel has 2 screws in the back that i removed but still couldn't take it off. I'm thinking the motherboard is attached to it and i would have to remove that in order to upgrade the power supply because i seen something that looked like screws if I could just remove the other panel to see. Thats 4 screws i see. 2 in plain sight and 2 kind of hidden behind that panel. Seems about the right amount to remove a power supply, right? Is it worth the risk to remove the mother board and disconnect everything to remove and upgrade the power supply? Anyway...

I know motherboards are sensitive, one thing could go wrong and that's it. I'd of course use grounded straps and work on a glass table top. I just want your guys opinions in case you've done something like this.

And of course I am doing this as a learning experience. I want my first customer built computer to be built exactly how i like it.

Thanks for ALL responses.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dell Inspiron Q6600
OS
Windows 7 64 Bit
CPU
Intel Core2 Quad 2.4
Motherboard
Intel G33 Express
Memory
2GB
Graphics Card(s)
Will Update
Sound Card
Onboard
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung SyncMaster181T
PSU
300w
Keyboard
Logitech G15
Mouse
Logitech G7
Internet Speed
Crappy (changing that soon)
Other Info
What other info could i possibly put? The other stuff i left out? Who cares. =)
At one time, Dell PCs had non-standard power supply connectors, but I am not sure if that is still true. You could check a Dell forum to confirm one way or another.

I wouldn't consider a new power supply unless I upgraded the graphics card, and even then I might not--it just depends on big of a jump you make.

If you decide to change power supplies, the default high quality brands are Seasonic and Corsair--and maybe some of the Antec brand. Most power supplies you see sold are just rebranded. In reality, there aren't many power supply manufacturers.

The modern tendency is to buy an 800 watt power supply when the PC doesn't use over 350 or 400 at full load, since even a child knows that 800 of anything is better than 400. Resist that if you are able.

I agree with everything you said. I do indeed plan on upgrading the graphics card very soon, and i want to upgrade the power supply at the same time. Craigslist shows that Corsair has mostly 5 star reviews, haven't checked Seasonic or Antec.

I have 1 DVD Reader, a DVD Writer, 1 sata HDD (might add another in the future) and will have the best graphics card i can get for about $110, which doing my research i should be able to get a pretty decent one. So i plan on getting about a 500w power supply. Do you think that is enough?

Thanks for ya reply, information is the **** :o
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dell Inspiron Q6600
OS
Windows 7 64 Bit
CPU
Intel Core2 Quad 2.4
Motherboard
Intel G33 Express
Memory
2GB
Graphics Card(s)
Will Update
Sound Card
Onboard
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung SyncMaster181T
PSU
300w
Keyboard
Logitech G15
Mouse
Logitech G7
Internet Speed
Crappy (changing that soon)
Other Info
What other info could i possibly put? The other stuff i left out? Who cares. =)
In all likelihood, 500 is more than enough.

Look here for info on power consumption by video cards. Very few draw 200 watts.


http://www.neoseeker.com/forums/8/t1509515-video-card-power-consumption-tests/

The rest of your stuff is ordinary. Look at my system specs. All of that, including a monitor, uses 165 running wide open. I have a minimum graphics card. Add a couple hundred watts for a high end one and you are at 365.

This will help you also--a thread at Silent PC regarding what can be run on 300 watts. The "you gotta have 700 watts" crowd will avert their eyes:


SPCR • View topic - How much will a 300w power supply run?

Seasonic makes most of Corsair's power supplies. You are better off with a good 450 than a no-name 650.

I doubt if you will have to remove the motherboard to change the power supply.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Ignatz Special; 4 speed manual gearbox; factory air conditioning; one of one
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium SP1, 64-bit
CPU
Intel Skylake i5-6600K, not overclocked
Motherboard
AsRock Z170M Extreme 4, micro ATX
Memory
8 GB HyperX DDR4-2666 (2 x 4 GB)
Graphics Card(s)
none; graphics are integrated on CPU
Sound Card
onboard: Realtek ALC1150; external: USB Behringer UF0-202
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2340M 23 inch IPS
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
System: Crucial MX100 series SSD, 128 GB;
Data: Samsung Spinpoint 103SJ, 1 TB;
Backup: WD Caviar Green WD30EZRX-00D8PB0, 3 TB
PSU
Rosewill SilentNight 500 watt fanless, semi-modular
Case
Antec Solo II
Cooling
Noctua NH-U12S; Noctua F12 intake, Noctua S12A exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft 200 6JH-00001 USB
Mouse
Dell or Microsoft optical wired; USB
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials and Malwarebytes Premium
Browser
Pale Moon
Other Info
All fans PWM; speeds at idle: CPU circa 500 rpm; intake circa 600 rpm; exhaust circa 600 rpm; CPU temps 27 idle and 47 C load in a warm room (27 C/81 F) when running Intel Extreme Tuning Utility stress test.
In all likelihood, 500 is more than enough.

Look here for info on power consumption by video cards. Very few draw 200 watts.


Video Card Power Consumption Tests - Video Cards and Monitors - Neoseeker Forums

The rest of your stuff is ordinary. Look at my system specs. All of that, including a monitor, uses 165 running wide open. I have a minimum graphics card. Add a couple hundred watts for a high end one and you are at 365.

This will help you also--a thread at Silent PC regarding what can be run on 300 watts. The "you gotta have 700 watts" crowd will avert their eyes:


SPCR • View topic - How much will a 300w power supply run?

Seasonic makes most of Corsair's power supplies. You are better off with a good 450 than a no-name 650.


LoL @ "700 Watts Crowd". Like i said if I gotta try and remove the motherboard to upgrade the power supply because of my graphics card thats fine. This is practice before i get serious and build my own.

Whats that best graphics card i could get for about $120 on newegg? As long as a powersupply states its ATX and my tower is ATX will it fit %100 of the time?

This is what i have been thinking about upgrading with so far from newegg.com:

Graphics Card
Newegg.com - SAPPHIRE 100284L Radeon HD 5750 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card
Power Supply
Newegg.com - CORSAIR CMPSU-550VX 550W ATX12V V2.2 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Compatible with Core i7 Power Supply
RAM
Newegg.com - PNY 1GB 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 667 (PC2 5300) Desktop Memory Model MD1024SD2-667-V2

I figure i'd go with the 550Watt in case i wanna replace my DVD Reader with a Bluray or something ...
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dell Inspiron Q6600
OS
Windows 7 64 Bit
CPU
Intel Core2 Quad 2.4
Motherboard
Intel G33 Express
Memory
2GB
Graphics Card(s)
Will Update
Sound Card
Onboard
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung SyncMaster181T
PSU
300w
Keyboard
Logitech G15
Mouse
Logitech G7
Internet Speed
Crappy (changing that soon)
Other Info
What other info could i possibly put? The other stuff i left out? Who cares. =)
Whats that best graphics card i could get for about $120 on newegg? As long as a powersupply states its ATX and my tower is ATX will it fit %100 of the time?

This is what i have been thinking about upgrading with so far from newegg.com:

Graphics Card
Newegg.com - SAPPHIRE 100284L Radeon HD 5750 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card
Power Supply
Newegg.com - CORSAIR CMPSU-550VX 550W ATX12V V2.2 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Compatible with Core i7 Power Supply
RAM
Newegg.com - PNY 1GB 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 667 (PC2 5300) Desktop Memory Model MD1024SD2-667-V2

I figure i'd go with the 550Watt in case i wanna replace my DVD Reader with a Bluray or something ...

I'm not a video card guru because I don't game. I can tell you that Sapphire is a good brand name.

Video cards are typically categorized by the processor on the card--the one you chose uses a Radeon 5750. I'd suggest you do a separate post in the gaming area regarding video. Tell them your budget.

That's assuming you are a gamer. If not, you certainly don't need a Radeon 5750.

Re the Corsair supply. Probably a good choice and probably made by Seasonic. Personally, I would go with a known Seasonic such as:

Newegg.com - SeaSonic S12II 520 Bronze 520W ATX12V V2.3 / EPS 12V V2.91 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply

Newegg.com - SeaSonic M12II 520 Bronze 520W ATX12V V2.3 / EPS 12V V2.91 SLI Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply

Newegg.com - SeaSonic S12II 620 Bronze 620W ATX12V V2.3 / EPS 12V V2.91 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply

All 70 to 80 bucks and 520 to 630 Watts. The middle one, with the M in the model number, is a modular unit. The unneeded cables are detachable, which makes for a cleaner install and less clutter. Generally worthwhile.

Re RAM:

Go to Crucial.com. Enter your Dell model number in the configurator. It will spit out the exact model numbers of Crucial brand RAM that is guaranteed to be compatible with your specific Dell.

You can then buy the RAM direct from Crucial or go back to Newegg and price it there.

You may well be able to get away with PNY, but RAM is so finicky that I won't vary from Crucial or Corsair. It's up to you to CONFIRM that any chosen RAM is in fact compatible with your Dell motherboard. Look at your owner's manual, etc.

And you still need confirmation that your Dell can accept a standard ATX power supply. As I said earlier, maybe it will and maybe it won't. It will "fit", but it may not have correct connectors. Dell's used to be non-standard in that respect.

Saw a mention at Tom's Hardware that ATI wants you to have 450 watts if you are running a 5750 video card. Of course, that's not for the card alone. From what I can tell, the card itself maxes out under 100 watts.
 
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My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Ignatz Special; 4 speed manual gearbox; factory air conditioning; one of one
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium SP1, 64-bit
CPU
Intel Skylake i5-6600K, not overclocked
Motherboard
AsRock Z170M Extreme 4, micro ATX
Memory
8 GB HyperX DDR4-2666 (2 x 4 GB)
Graphics Card(s)
none; graphics are integrated on CPU
Sound Card
onboard: Realtek ALC1150; external: USB Behringer UF0-202
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2340M 23 inch IPS
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
System: Crucial MX100 series SSD, 128 GB;
Data: Samsung Spinpoint 103SJ, 1 TB;
Backup: WD Caviar Green WD30EZRX-00D8PB0, 3 TB
PSU
Rosewill SilentNight 500 watt fanless, semi-modular
Case
Antec Solo II
Cooling
Noctua NH-U12S; Noctua F12 intake, Noctua S12A exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft 200 6JH-00001 USB
Mouse
Dell or Microsoft optical wired; USB
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials and Malwarebytes Premium
Browser
Pale Moon
Other Info
All fans PWM; speeds at idle: CPU circa 500 rpm; intake circa 600 rpm; exhaust circa 600 rpm; CPU temps 27 idle and 47 C load in a warm room (27 C/81 F) when running Intel Extreme Tuning Utility stress test.
I have in the past modified a HP case to take a ATX power supply....some tin snips and time....but that doesn't really apply to a Dell case. No law saying you have to stick with a Dell case though....be warned that the motherboard may not be ATX and may have non-standard power/restart/led connectors...also save the side with the Windows key!
Have a look at the Rosewill Power supplies on new egg/I have had no problems with them....Most likely from the same plant in China.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom
OS
windows 10 pro 64 bit
CPU
i5 4690K@4500 COOLER MASTER Seidon 120M water cooler
Motherboard
ASUS SABERTOOTH Z87 LGA 1150 Intel
Memory
16gb Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 sc
Monitor(s) Displays
BenQ GL2760H Black 27" 2ms HDMI Widescreen LED 1920X1080
Screen Resolution
DSR 2103X1183
Hard Drives
ADATA 256 gig SSD + 4 junk
PSU
EVGA supernova 750
Case
coolermaster
Cooling
many...
Keyboard
z merc
Mouse
Logitech wireless G602
Internet Speed
2.5mbs cable
OK so, I took off the panel that is meant to come off on the left side. The other panel has 2 screws in the back that i removed but still couldn't take it off. I'm thinking the motherboard is attached to it and i would have to remove that in order to upgrade the power supply because i seen something that looked like screws if I could just remove the other panel to see. Thats 4 screws i see. 2 in plain sight and 2 kind of hidden behind that panel. Seems about the right amount to remove a power supply, right? Is it worth the risk to remove the mother board and disconnect everything to remove and upgrade the power supply? Anyway...

I don't want to say anything kind about Dell, but their online support is pretty good.

http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/inspd530/en/OM/PDF/om_en.pdf

The PSU is supported in the usual manner, by 4 screws in the back of the PC.

A little Googling indicates that a standard ATX power supply will go into an Inspiron 530 without modifications. Check the length of anything that you buy, though. That's the size parameter that seems to be allowed to vary.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
homegrown
OS
Windows 7 Pro X64 SP1
CPU
Intel Core I7-3930k
Motherboard
Asus P9X79 Pro
Memory
16 GB Gskill DDR3-2133
Graphics Card(s)
eVGA GTX680
Sound Card
Creative X-Fi Titanium
Monitor(s) Displays
As PA246Q
Screen Resolution
1920 X 1200
Hard Drives
Corsair Force GT, 120 GB
WDC 1.5TB Caviar Black
PSU
PCP&C Silencer 750 Crossfire
Case
Silverstone FT02
Cooling
Noctua NH-D14
Keyboard
cheap Logitech USB
Mouse
Microsoft Intellimouse Explorer (old optical) USB
Internet Speed
6Mb cable
Other Info
Pioneer BDR-205
Samsung SH-203B
Monsoon 5.1 speakers
Try PC Power & Cooling for a Dell-specific power supply...

Silencer 500 Dell

I have the 500 watt model in my Dimension E520, it fit perfectly, and according to their compatibility list will fit the Inspiron 530 as well.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dell E520
OS
Windows 7 Enterprise x64 SP1, Ubuntu 11.04 x64
CPU
Core2Quad Q6700 - 2.66 GHz
Motherboard
Whatever the heck Dell put in there...
Memory
8 Gig Mushkin DDR2 800 MHz
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA NVIDIA 9800GT - 512MB DDR3
Monitor(s) Displays
2 x 19" ViewSonic LCD
Screen Resolution
2560x1024
Hard Drives
1 Intel X25-M 120G SSD, 1 300G VelociRaptor, 1 WD Caviar Black 1TB
PSU
PCPower & Cooling Silencer 500 Watt
Internet Speed
15/2 Roadrunner Cable
Other Info
NOD32 AV - Malwarebytes
I personally wouldn't waste money upgrading that machine.
I would save up and build a new machine and either sell the one you have to offset the cost or use it as a second machine.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HAL-9000
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit
CPU
Intel i7 3770K
Motherboard
Asus Sabertooth Z77
Memory
16GB DDR3 1333 Corsair XMS3
Graphics Card(s)
XFX HD6950 2GB EyeFinity
Sound Card
Logitech G35 & Sennheiser PC135 & VIA HD
Monitor(s) Displays
23" HP 2310e, 23" Samsung B2230, 21.5" Viewsonic
Screen Resolution
5760x1080
Hard Drives
16TB of Storage
128GB & 256GB Crucial M4 SSD's, 2X 1TB WD Black, 3x 2TB WD, 3x 2TB Samsung F4, 1.5TB Seagate, WD 500GB,
PSU
Antec True Power New 650watt
Case
Cooler Master HAF-932
Cooling
Corsair H60 Hydro Cooler, 3x 230mm Fans, 2x120mm Fan
Keyboard
Logitech G15 and G13
Mouse
Logitech G700 Gaming Mouse
Internet Speed
50/10 Mbit
Other Info
Speakers : Alesis M1 Active Mk2 Studio Monitors , APC RS 1200 UPS, HP 4500DN Color Laser, HP P1006 mono Laser, Kodak 8500 Dye-Sub, Epson 1280 inkjet, Epson Worforce 610 MFC
I personally wouldn't waste money upgrading that machine.
I would save up and build a new machine and either sell the one you have to offset the cost or use it as a second machine.

That is probally the best advice man with the hassel of trying to find the right psu and size just get a fresh sizable tower room for future upgrades you are limiting yourself if you use that old case

There's many cheap ATX cases some come with a psu already some don't but with that being said you plan on getting a new mobo anyway a new psu and cpu why not just come up with a decent budget and go from there im sure for what you are looking for 500.00 US dollars would cover your needs
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
CoreI7-6700K MrFingerIII Special Builds
OS
Windows 10 Home Premium 64bit sp1
CPU
Intel I7-6700K @ 4.6 Ghz 1.344 volts everyday OC
Motherboard
Asrock Fatality K6 Z170 Socket 1151
Memory
32GB G-Skill TridentZ 3200mhz 16-18-18-38 DDR4
Graphics Card(s)
Sli Gigabyte Windforce GTX 980 G1
Sound Card
AC97 Creative Rage Tactic 3D Headphones Bluetooth
Monitor(s) Displays
27" Asus ROG Swift PG278Q G-Sync 48" Vizio Smart HD TV
Screen Resolution
2560x1440p 27"- 48" Currently Gaming at 2560x1440p Res 2K
Hard Drives
250GB Samsung Evo840SSD Seagate baracuda 500 GB WD Mybook 500Gb 1TB Seagate Barracuda
PSU
HX1050w Corsair Silver 80plus certified crosfire/sli
Case
Enthod Pro Full Tower
Cooling
Corsair H110i GT 280 mm High Performance WaterBlock
Keyboard
Logitech wireless keyboard
Mouse
Logitech wireless mouse
Internet Speed
Cox Cable 100+ mb
Antivirus
WebRoot Spysweeper with Antivirus
Browser
IE-10, Chrome, Opera
Other Info
My Other Rig is a AMD FX8320E @4.6Ghz 16GB Ballistic Sport Ram
Mobo Asrock Fatality 990FX 120GB OCZ SSD 1TB Seagate Barracuda Corsair H75 Cooling PSU Corsair CX750
GPU GTX Gigabyte 970G1
Awesome information from the 2 previous replies.

I like the Power Supply you found with the M in the model number a lot. I don't like clutter :D

When it comes to how I try and find out if the power supply will have the cables I will need for my motherboard, drives, etc. I check this website Dell Inspiron 530 Desktop Computer Specs (Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600, 640GB HDD, 4GB) - Desktops - CNET Reviews which is the website with info specific to my machine. Then i see which cables and what not the power supply has, such as the one ignatzatsonic recommended here Newegg.com - SeaSonic M12II 520 Bronze 520W ATX12V V2.3 / EPS 12V V2.91 SLI Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply Is this the proper method?? BTW, ignatzatsonic, Newegg specs say that that PSU has connections for PCI-Express 1x6 PIN. I googled and couldn't what a 1x6 PIN is used for. I thought you just plugged your PCI-E card in and your good to go. Some need a connection from the PSU, i guess?

For the ram I used this website Dell Inspiron 530 - Core 2 Quad Q6600 2.4 GHz - Desktops - CNET Archive to look up the detailed specifications of my computers RAM (DDR2 SDRAM, 800MHZ, DIMM 240-Pin, Etc). The RAM I posted previously is the only result I get on newegg with the exact specs from the website. So I figure this would be my best bet on making sure that it's compatible and works. Am I right in my research?

I think like this. When your wanting to build a computer from the ground up you want to try and get all components to be the same brand, and for the components to compliment each other, if possible. Correct?
I worked for Apple briefly and I hear this is why they run so "smoothly" is because of the OS and all the parts are made to work with each other. Don't start a Mac vs PC war please, i'm all about the Windows :D. Although I hear you can run Snow Leopard on a completely Intel system and it run better than an Apple.. just a thought.

Anyway, like I said my main goal in the end is to figure out how to properly build a computer from the ground up. And yes, I'm a novice and I ask a lot of questions (Hence my name?) Sorry if I over explain, just complain on me. I'm dang near completely new to the forum thing and not just Windows7Forums. Starting to get in to it because of the quality of the responses I get here on 7forums though...


FYI I am a gamer, I will definitely be making posts there.

Thanks for your posts.
 
Last edited:

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dell Inspiron Q6600
OS
Windows 7 64 Bit
CPU
Intel Core2 Quad 2.4
Motherboard
Intel G33 Express
Memory
2GB
Graphics Card(s)
Will Update
Sound Card
Onboard
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung SyncMaster181T
PSU
300w
Keyboard
Logitech G15
Mouse
Logitech G7
Internet Speed
Crappy (changing that soon)
Other Info
What other info could i possibly put? The other stuff i left out? Who cares. =)
Yes--I think some high powered graphics cards have their own cable connection to the motherboard.

See the pic below for the available cable connectors on that Seasonic M12II Bronze. Go to SeasonicUSA.com for more info.

Some of the recent posters have a valid point about starting from scratch with a new case. Personally, that's what I would do given the budget. You can build a very stout machine for 600 or 700 dollars in hardware costs. RAM prices have come down in the last year or so.

The default method to get the right RAM is to use the Crucial configurator as I mentioned. You seem to have located the correct RAM with your own research, but I note that your link says nothing about RAM voltage. RAM is cranky and voltage can be critical. That's why I suggested you go to Crucial, where voltage is taken into consideration. It's the combination of motherboard/RAM that is critical. Motherboard A may like RAM of a certain voltage and motherboard B may not.

Yes, you want components to complement each other. You have to be wary of brand names because many so called "brands" are just marketing ploys when in fact a relatively few manufacturers make most of the stuff---albeit in varying grades according to the specifications of the contract. Notice that you will see dozens of brands of power supplies, but only 4 or 5 hard drive manufacturers.

My first PC was a Dell. It worked well, but I never upgraded it. From 1997 on, I have built my own PCs, hand selecting 100% of the parts. It's the best way to go if you enjoy doing it and want to expand your knowledge.

There was a time when home builders saved money by do-it-yourself. But those days are gone. You can't beat Dell for prices on a complete system, but you may have over-riding considerations---more control over parts, education, enjoyment, etc.

Intel will be introducing a new CPU (Sandy Bridge)--next month I think. Were I you and I am not, I would build around a Sandy Bridge CPU from the ground up. In fact, I may well do that myself as this critter is over 4 years old. My comments in earlier posts were on the assumption you are locked into a Dell upgrade. That's cool too and your choice entirely.
 

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My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Ignatz Special; 4 speed manual gearbox; factory air conditioning; one of one
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium SP1, 64-bit
CPU
Intel Skylake i5-6600K, not overclocked
Motherboard
AsRock Z170M Extreme 4, micro ATX
Memory
8 GB HyperX DDR4-2666 (2 x 4 GB)
Graphics Card(s)
none; graphics are integrated on CPU
Sound Card
onboard: Realtek ALC1150; external: USB Behringer UF0-202
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2340M 23 inch IPS
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
System: Crucial MX100 series SSD, 128 GB;
Data: Samsung Spinpoint 103SJ, 1 TB;
Backup: WD Caviar Green WD30EZRX-00D8PB0, 3 TB
PSU
Rosewill SilentNight 500 watt fanless, semi-modular
Case
Antec Solo II
Cooling
Noctua NH-U12S; Noctua F12 intake, Noctua S12A exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft 200 6JH-00001 USB
Mouse
Dell or Microsoft optical wired; USB
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials and Malwarebytes Premium
Browser
Pale Moon
Other Info
All fans PWM; speeds at idle: CPU circa 500 rpm; intake circa 600 rpm; exhaust circa 600 rpm; CPU temps 27 idle and 47 C load in a warm room (27 C/81 F) when running Intel Extreme Tuning Utility stress test.
Yes--I think some high powered graphics cards have their own cable connection to the motherboard.

See the pic below for the available cable connectors on that Seasonic M12II Bronze. Go to SeasonicUSA.com for more info.

Some of the recent posters have a valid point about starting from scratch with a new case. Personally, that's what I would do given the budget. You can build a very stout machine for 600 or 700 dollars in hardware costs. RAM prices have come down in the last year or so.

The default method to get the right RAM is to use the Crucial configurator as I mentioned. You seem to have located the correct RAM with your own research, but I note that your link says nothing about RAM voltage. RAM is cranky and voltage can be critical. That's why I suggested you go to Crucial, where voltage is taken into consideration.

Yes, you want components to complement each other. You have to be wary of brand names because many so called "brands" are just marketing ploys when in fact a relatively few manufacturers make most of the stuff---albeit in varying grades according to the specifications of the contract. Notice that you will see dozens of brands of power supplies, but only 4 or 5 hard drive manufacturers.

My first PC was a Dell. It worked well, but I never upgraded it. From 1997 on, I have built my own PCs, hand selecting 100% of the parts. It's the best way to go if you enjoy doing it and want to expand your knowledge.

There was a time when home builders saved money by do-it-yourself. But those days are gone. You can't beat Dell for prices on a complete system, but you may have over-riding considerations---more control over parts, education, enjoyment, etc.

Intel will be introducing a new CPU (Sandy Bridge)--next month I think. Were I you and I am not, I would build from the ground up. My comments in earlier posts were on the assumption you are locked into a Dell upgrade. That's cool too and your choice entirely.

Nicely done with giving all the answers to the questions i asked and even the questions i would of had afterward :D

The Voltage on the RAM and the website crucial.com is information i will hold on to, definitely. The tool will come in handy for sure.

And yes, i do plan on building from the ground up. I'm going to buy a case first, power supply second, then the cpu, and now that you've mentioned that new CPU Sandy Bridge, i may wait and get something like that. But it looks like it has a successor, Haswell. But I couldn't find a release date on either.

As far as upgrading this old thing goes, its mostly practice. I wanna get my first one i build from the ground up perfect. I'm sure you guy's can understand that =)

@bobkn --- Good thing you told me that cause I would have been all over the place trying to remove it most likely. I tend to over-think things, which can definitely be a bad thing.

Thanks guys. Awesome Replies. I Found out everything that i need to know pretty much. Still new here so i might add 1 or 2 if thats not a prob.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dell Inspiron Q6600
OS
Windows 7 64 Bit
CPU
Intel Core2 Quad 2.4
Motherboard
Intel G33 Express
Memory
2GB
Graphics Card(s)
Will Update
Sound Card
Onboard
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung SyncMaster181T
PSU
300w
Keyboard
Logitech G15
Mouse
Logitech G7
Internet Speed
Crappy (changing that soon)
Other Info
What other info could i possibly put? The other stuff i left out? Who cares. =)
Haswell isn't scheduled until 2013 the last I heard.

Antec is usually the starting point for cases. Most cases include a power supply, but some don't. Find the some that don't. Default Antecs would probably be the 300, 900, or Solo.

You could go with "micro ATX" cases, but they are a bit cramped inside. The more typical choice is "ATX mid-tower".

Most any ATX motherboard will fit in an ATX mid-tower. Most any micro ATX motherboard will fit in an ATX mid-tower. But a standard ATX motherboard won't fit in a micro ATX case.

If you are building new, I'd make choices in about this order:

Intel or AMD CPU?

Form factor: standard ATX or micro ATX? Standard has more expansion capability (slots), but few people need all those slots. Many still go with standard ATX over micro ATX purely because the cases are not as cramped inside.

Then pick the ATX or micro ATX case with enough bays for your intended hard drives and DVD drives. Some cases have better ventilation or are quieter than others.

Then the CPU/motherboard combination. Stick with one of 3 or 4 motherboard brands. Retail CPUs include a heatsink that is adequate unless overclocking.

Then the video card. The current and future Intel processors have video built into the CPU, so you could certainly go with that for a few months and buy a separate card later if your budget dictates.

Then the RAM that is known to play nice with the CPU/motherboard combo. No need to get high speed RAM unless overclocking it.

Then audio. Some motherboards have built-in audio and some don't. Your Dell probably has audio built into the motherboard?

Then the power supply that will accommodate the above hardware.

Fans: cases usually include them, but you may want to replace the included fans with quieter models. Typical setup would have fans on the CPU heatsink, built into power supply, video card, and backside exhaust. Many add an intake fan on the front side.

Then the rest of it. Your keyboard, monitor, mouse, hard drives, and DVD may carry over from the Dell?

Not sure about your operating system situation.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Ignatz Special; 4 speed manual gearbox; factory air conditioning; one of one
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium SP1, 64-bit
CPU
Intel Skylake i5-6600K, not overclocked
Motherboard
AsRock Z170M Extreme 4, micro ATX
Memory
8 GB HyperX DDR4-2666 (2 x 4 GB)
Graphics Card(s)
none; graphics are integrated on CPU
Sound Card
onboard: Realtek ALC1150; external: USB Behringer UF0-202
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2340M 23 inch IPS
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
System: Crucial MX100 series SSD, 128 GB;
Data: Samsung Spinpoint 103SJ, 1 TB;
Backup: WD Caviar Green WD30EZRX-00D8PB0, 3 TB
PSU
Rosewill SilentNight 500 watt fanless, semi-modular
Case
Antec Solo II
Cooling
Noctua NH-U12S; Noctua F12 intake, Noctua S12A exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft 200 6JH-00001 USB
Mouse
Dell or Microsoft optical wired; USB
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials and Malwarebytes Premium
Browser
Pale Moon
Other Info
All fans PWM; speeds at idle: CPU circa 500 rpm; intake circa 600 rpm; exhaust circa 600 rpm; CPU temps 27 idle and 47 C load in a warm room (27 C/81 F) when running Intel Extreme Tuning Utility stress test.
Haswell isn't scheduled until 2013 the last I heard.

Antec is usually the starting point for cases. Most cases include a power supply, but some don't. Find the some that don't. Default Antecs would probably be the 300, 900, or Solo.

You could go with "micro ATX" cases, but they are a bit cramped inside. The more typical choice is "ATX mid-tower".

Most any ATX motherboard will fit in an ATX mid-tower. Most any micro ATX motherboard will fit in an ATX mid-tower. But a standard ATX motherboard won't fit in a micro ATX case.

If you are building new, I'd make choices in about this order:

Intel or AMD CPU?

Form factor: standard ATX or micro ATX? Standard has more expansion capability (slots), but few people need all those slots. Many still go with standard ATX over micro ATX purely because the cases are not as cramped inside.

Then pick the ATX or micro ATX case with enough bays for your intended hard drives and DVD drives. Some cases have better ventilation or are quieter than others.

Then the CPU/motherboard combination. Stick with one of 3 or 4 motherboard brands. Retail CPUs include a heatsink that is adequate unless overclocking.

Then the video card. The current and future Intel processors have video built into the CPU, so you could certainly go with that for a few months and buy a separate card later if your budget dictates.

Then the RAM that is known to play nice with the CPU/motherboard combo. No need to get high speed RAM unless overclocking it.

Then audio. Some motherboards have built-in audio and some don't. Your Dell probably has audio built into the motherboard?

Then the power supply that will accommodate the above hardware.

Fans: cases usually include them, but you may want to replace the included fans with quieter models. Typical setup would have fans on the CPU heatsink, built into power supply, video card, and backside exhaust. Many add an intake fan on the front side.

Then the rest of it. Your keyboard, monitor, mouse, hard drives, and DVD may carry over from the Dell?

Not sure about your operating system situation.

I'd most likely go with the Standard ATX because as I said before, i hate clutter. Not only because of that but also because i plan on using nothing that is on-board. Which means many PCI-E slots is a must. I may have to get a bigger case in-case the size of the cards prevents them from fitting. While we're on the subject, the integrated network cards are usually pretty good right? Features and stability wise, that is. I'm sure your answer will be it depends on what kind of features i'm looking for and what the motherboard comes with haha. Better yet, is there ANY reason an integrated video card, sound card, network card, etc is better that a PCI-E??

I also hear that Solid State Drives are only good for so many read/writes. Is this true? If you don't know i'll start a thread in the proper section.

For the CPU i will most likely go with an intel Quad somewhere around 2.6 ghz, which of course means i will be using windows 7 64bit. I'll want to add DDR3 ram, i hear it uses less energy and it's faster and my computer stays on constantly so why not.

What's sad is that i'll probably spend over half the amount i spent on parts just on peripherals, beings that im a gamer. Imma have to have the latest logitech gaming keyboard, latest logitech mouse, etc. LoL. I got some nice altec lansing speakers so i'll be fine with that.
 
Last edited:

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dell Inspiron Q6600
OS
Windows 7 64 Bit
CPU
Intel Core2 Quad 2.4
Motherboard
Intel G33 Express
Memory
2GB
Graphics Card(s)
Will Update
Sound Card
Onboard
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung SyncMaster181T
PSU
300w
Keyboard
Logitech G15
Mouse
Logitech G7
Internet Speed
Crappy (changing that soon)
Other Info
What other info could i possibly put? The other stuff i left out? Who cares. =)
While we're on the subject, the integrated network cards are usually pretty good right?

is there ANY reason an integrated video card, sound card, network card, etc is better that a PCI-E??

I also hear that Solid State Drives are only good for so many read/writes. Is this true?

I'll want to add DDR3 ram, i hear it uses less energy and it's faster and my computer stays on constantly so why not.

Integrated networking is fine for any normal usage.

Integrated sound has come a long way, as has integrated video. I have used both successfully at one time or another. If you have a large monitor and use high resolutions, a discrete video card may be appropriate.

Blindfold tests are very revealing on audio in particular. The placebo effect is a wonderful thing.

The path of least resistance is to use onboard audio and video until you are unsatisified with them, at which point you consider a discrete card. Gaming geeks change video cards at the drop of a hat.

By all accounts, there is a lot of misinformation out there about SSDs and a lot of obsessing about "wearing out" the drive. Saner heads think it is all overblown and/or avoidable. I even hear of people who don't want to install applications on an SSD for fear of "wearing it out". I'm sure you can find someone to tell you that whatever you do, you are a fool for doing it.

Your motherboard will dictate whether or not you must use DDR 2, DDR 3, or some other RAM. DDR 2 and DDR 3 are specifications, not speed ratings.

There are various speeds of DDR 2 and various speeds of DDR 3. There is NO point in buying "fast" ram if you are not overclocking the RAM---it would just run at default speed anyway. You will pay through the teeth for very high speed RAM--for no purpose if you don't overclock. Stick with a quality brand and don't get cute on the RAM choice--much as you shouldn't on a power supply choice. If money is no object, knock yourself out for whatever reason.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Ignatz Special; 4 speed manual gearbox; factory air conditioning; one of one
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium SP1, 64-bit
CPU
Intel Skylake i5-6600K, not overclocked
Motherboard
AsRock Z170M Extreme 4, micro ATX
Memory
8 GB HyperX DDR4-2666 (2 x 4 GB)
Graphics Card(s)
none; graphics are integrated on CPU
Sound Card
onboard: Realtek ALC1150; external: USB Behringer UF0-202
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2340M 23 inch IPS
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
System: Crucial MX100 series SSD, 128 GB;
Data: Samsung Spinpoint 103SJ, 1 TB;
Backup: WD Caviar Green WD30EZRX-00D8PB0, 3 TB
PSU
Rosewill SilentNight 500 watt fanless, semi-modular
Case
Antec Solo II
Cooling
Noctua NH-U12S; Noctua F12 intake, Noctua S12A exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft 200 6JH-00001 USB
Mouse
Dell or Microsoft optical wired; USB
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials and Malwarebytes Premium
Browser
Pale Moon
Other Info
All fans PWM; speeds at idle: CPU circa 500 rpm; intake circa 600 rpm; exhaust circa 600 rpm; CPU temps 27 idle and 47 C load in a warm room (27 C/81 F) when running Intel Extreme Tuning Utility stress test.
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