Hydraulics

seekermeister

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I need to repair my floor jack, therefore must buy some hydraulic fluid and o-rings. I know from past experience that not all o-rings and fluids are equal, but have not been able to find any specifications for my particular jack. I sent some emails to some suppliers asking about this, but thus far have received no replies.

How does one determine exactly which o-rings and fluid to get? I'm only referring to materials and forumula.
 

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Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
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SB 560 5.1 w/ Sennheiser RS140/**Creative T20 speakers, Dvico FusionHDTV7 Gold RT, Cisco E3000, HP 5510V AIO, Linksys E3000, Belkin F5U237 hub and **F5D8055 adapter
(** = 2nd rig)

My Computer

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Hopalong/ Godzilla
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Windows7 Pro 64bit SP-1; Windows XP Pro 32bit
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Intel Core i7-870 Lynnfield 2.93GHz LGA 1156 95W Quad-Core
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ASUS P7P55D-E PRO
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Western Digital Caviar Black WD6401AALS 640GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s
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COOLER MASTER Silent Pro RS850-AMBAJ3-US 850W Modular
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COOLER MASTER HAF 932 RC-932-KKN5-GP Black
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Scythe "Mugen-2 Rev.B" (2 ScytheKaze-Jyuni PWM fans)
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Okay, thanks. I was going to order them online, but since I'm only a couple of blocks from Autozone, I guess there is no excuse for not going there. Am I to understand that automotive fluids and o-rings are the same as used in hydraulic jacks?

EDIT: Forget the part of the question about the fluid, because I now see that it is specifically jack oil. I thought it curious that while AutoZone is cheaper than what I found online for the fluid, the same isn't true of the o-rings, as can be seen by comparing the links below:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...s&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=76119_0_0_

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/?cmd...49&item=190574969385&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT
 

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W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
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Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
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ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
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2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
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EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
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Asus Xonar D2X/**Xonar D1
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Acer X233H, Dell E152FPc /**LG M237-WD
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CM RS600 w/ APC BX1000G/**Antec 500 TP w/ APC BX1000
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HAF922/**Antec 1040IIB
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3x200mm, 1x140 and 1x120mm/**5x80mm fans
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Logitech Media USB/**Saitek Eclipse
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Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
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3.3Mbps
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SB 560 5.1 w/ Sennheiser RS140/**Creative T20 speakers, Dvico FusionHDTV7 Gold RT, Cisco E3000, HP 5510V AIO, Linksys E3000, Belkin F5U237 hub and **F5D8055 adapter
(** = 2nd rig)
I would take the old ones in to the store and just match them up to size. You can't need more than 10 total.

Probably only 5-6 max. at about 50 cents each.
 

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Hopalong/ Godzilla
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Windows7 Pro 64bit SP-1; Windows XP Pro 32bit
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Intel Core i7-870 Lynnfield 2.93GHz LGA 1156 95W Quad-Core
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ASUS P7P55D-E PRO
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8GB@1400MHz Crucial Ballistix DDR3-1600 4x2GB
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ASUS ENGTX460 DirectCU/2DI/1GD5 1GB 256-bit GDDR5
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VIA Onboard
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Asus VS248H-P 24"; Samsung SyncMaster 941BW 19"ws
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Intel 320 120GB SSD
Western Digital Caviar Black WD7501AALS 750GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s
Western Digital Caviar Black WD6401AALS 640GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s
PSU
COOLER MASTER Silent Pro RS850-AMBAJ3-US 850W Modular
Case
COOLER MASTER HAF 932 RC-932-KKN5-GP Black
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Scythe "Mugen-2 Rev.B" (2 ScytheKaze-Jyuni PWM fans)
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Logitech K-320
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Kensington
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Avast Inernet Suite
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IE 9 ; Chrome
You're probably right, but without actually tearing into the jack, I'm guessing that there are only 3 o-rings involved...1 on the release valve, one on the compression piston and 1 on the output shaft. Does that sound right? Not having the jack apart, I can only guess which seal is bad, because there is no sign of external leakage, only that it doesn't hold pressure.
 

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W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
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Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
Motherboard
ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
Memory
2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Sound Card
Asus Xonar D2X/**Xonar D1
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Acer X233H, Dell E152FPc /**LG M237-WD
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1920x1080 & 1024x768/**1980x1080
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WDC 2TB, 1.5TB, 1TB, 500GB,Seagate 500GB , Maxtor 80GB /**500GB Seagate & WDC 1TB Black
PSU
CM RS600 w/ APC BX1000G/**Antec 500 TP w/ APC BX1000
Case
HAF922/**Antec 1040IIB
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3x200mm, 1x140 and 1x120mm/**5x80mm fans
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Logitech Media USB/**Saitek Eclipse
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Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
Internet Speed
3.3Mbps
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SB 560 5.1 w/ Sennheiser RS140/**Creative T20 speakers, Dvico FusionHDTV7 Gold RT, Cisco E3000, HP 5510V AIO, Linksys E3000, Belkin F5U237 hub and **F5D8055 adapter
(** = 2nd rig)
The pump and cylinder are most likely NOT O-rings. O-rings are not meant to hold high pressure. These will be lipped seals. If there's no external leak, the problem is, more likely than not, just a check ball that's not seating. A way to try and clear dirt from the ball and seat is as follows.

1. Make sure the jack has fluid.
2. Open the release valve.
3. Lift or pull the cylinder up by hand. Let it go down. Repeat this 2-3 times.
4. Close the release valve and see if it will pump.

If it pumps up, I suggest doing the following:
1. Drain the fluid.
2. Fill with Stoddard Solvent (Paint Thinner).
3. Repeat step 2 & 3 above except 4-5 times.
4. Drain the solvent and refill with Jack Oil.

You should be good to go.
 

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PC/Desktop
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Built 2/11/2011
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Windows 7 Pro-x64
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Intel DH67BL-B3
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Integrated Intel HD 2000
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Integrated Intel 10.1 HD, RealTek ALC892
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Asus LCD VH222H, Haier HL24XSL2a
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Seasonic 650W 80+ Gold Modular
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Rosewill Defender
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Microsoft Internet Explorer 11
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Cyber Accoustics-3602 Speakers,
AFT XM-5U Card Reader,
Hauppauge TV-HVR-2250,
Sony LX300 USB Turntable

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Home Built Desktop By DataTech
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ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
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If the jack is made i China don't wast your time doing anything.
 

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Home made Desktop
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Corsair Platinum 16 gig @2400
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EVGA GTX 1070 OC
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I've got more floor jacks and bottle jacks in the shop than I know what to do with. All but two came from the salvage yard. They end up in the scrap yard for all the same reason--They don't pump up. I do the quick test and nine times out of ten, they start working. I then buy them for $0.15/lb. (Earlier ones were ten cents a pound.) If there's no sign of leaking, a re-seal is a waste of money. A good cleaning will get them to work again. It's common for paint chips from the fill plug, dirt or bits of rust to get under the intake check ball. Give it try. It costs nothing.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Built 2/11/2011
OS
Windows 7 Pro-x64
CPU
i7-2600 3.4GHz - 3.8GHz Turbo
Motherboard
Intel DH67BL-B3
Memory
8Gb - 2x4GB, Muskin 991770 PC3-1333
Graphics Card(s)
Integrated Intel HD 2000
Sound Card
Integrated Intel 10.1 HD, RealTek ALC892
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus LCD VH222H, Haier HL24XSL2a
Screen Resolution
1920x1080, 1920x1080
Hard Drives
Crucial SSD C300-128Gb,
Western Digital WD5002AALX - 500Gb,
Western Digital WD7501AALS - 750Gb
PSU
Seasonic 650W 80+ Gold Modular
Case
Rosewill Defender
Cooling
Stock CPU, Four 120mm case fans, PCH fan added
Keyboard
Logitech EX100 Y-RBH94 Wireless
Mouse
Logitech EX100 M-RCE95 Wireless
Internet Speed
3.0/1.5 Mbs
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Microsoft Internet Explorer 11
Other Info
Antec Veris Premier-Multimedia IR Station,
Cyber Accoustics-3602 Speakers,
AFT XM-5U Card Reader,
Hauppauge TV-HVR-2250,
Sony LX300 USB Turntable
The pump and cylinder are most likely NOT O-rings. O-rings are not meant to hold high pressure. These will be lipped seals. If there's no external leak, the problem is, more likely than not, just a check ball that's not seating. A way to try and clear dirt from the ball and seat is as follows.

1. Make sure the jack has fluid.
2. Open the release valve.
3. Lift or pull the cylinder up by hand. Let it go down. Repeat this 2-3 times.
4. Close the release valve and see if it will pump.

If it pumps up, I suggest doing the following:
1. Drain the fluid.
2. Fill with Stoddard Solvent (Paint Thinner).
3. Repeat step 2 & 3 above except 4-5 times.
4. Drain the solvent and refill with Jack Oil.

You should be good to go.

I will give that a try, but since it already does pump up, but will not hold sufficient pressure to raise my vehicle, I will have to check it under load.

Just in case that doesn't work, if you are right about the internal seals not being o-rings, I'm wondering if they are user replaceable and where I would find those lipped seals?
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
DIY
OS
W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
CPU
Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
Motherboard
ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
Memory
2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
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EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Sound Card
Asus Xonar D2X/**Xonar D1
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H, Dell E152FPc /**LG M237-WD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 & 1024x768/**1980x1080
Hard Drives
WDC 2TB, 1.5TB, 1TB, 500GB,Seagate 500GB , Maxtor 80GB /**500GB Seagate & WDC 1TB Black
PSU
CM RS600 w/ APC BX1000G/**Antec 500 TP w/ APC BX1000
Case
HAF922/**Antec 1040IIB
Cooling
3x200mm, 1x140 and 1x120mm/**5x80mm fans
Keyboard
Logitech Media USB/**Saitek Eclipse
Mouse
Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
Internet Speed
3.3Mbps
Other Info
SB 560 5.1 w/ Sennheiser RS140/**Creative T20 speakers, Dvico FusionHDTV7 Gold RT, Cisco E3000, HP 5510V AIO, Linksys E3000, Belkin F5U237 hub and **F5D8055 adapter
(** = 2nd rig)
I used to work at a NAPA store and we had a place to send jacks in for repair. They came back looking like a new one for $30-$100 depending on the jack.
(Scotty's Hydraulic Jack Service, Indy)
Check with your local AutoParts MegaMart or repair garages to see if some service like that is in your area.

Google
The jack would cost less than that to replace, so that idea doesn't fly.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
DIY
OS
W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
CPU
Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
Motherboard
ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
Memory
2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Sound Card
Asus Xonar D2X/**Xonar D1
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H, Dell E152FPc /**LG M237-WD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 & 1024x768/**1980x1080
Hard Drives
WDC 2TB, 1.5TB, 1TB, 500GB,Seagate 500GB , Maxtor 80GB /**500GB Seagate & WDC 1TB Black
PSU
CM RS600 w/ APC BX1000G/**Antec 500 TP w/ APC BX1000
Case
HAF922/**Antec 1040IIB
Cooling
3x200mm, 1x140 and 1x120mm/**5x80mm fans
Keyboard
Logitech Media USB/**Saitek Eclipse
Mouse
Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
Internet Speed
3.3Mbps
Other Info
SB 560 5.1 w/ Sennheiser RS140/**Creative T20 speakers, Dvico FusionHDTV7 Gold RT, Cisco E3000, HP 5510V AIO, Linksys E3000, Belkin F5U237 hub and **F5D8055 adapter
(** = 2nd rig)

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
DIY
OS
W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
CPU
Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
Motherboard
ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
Memory
2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Sound Card
Asus Xonar D2X/**Xonar D1
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H, Dell E152FPc /**LG M237-WD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 & 1024x768/**1980x1080
Hard Drives
WDC 2TB, 1.5TB, 1TB, 500GB,Seagate 500GB , Maxtor 80GB /**500GB Seagate & WDC 1TB Black
PSU
CM RS600 w/ APC BX1000G/**Antec 500 TP w/ APC BX1000
Case
HAF922/**Antec 1040IIB
Cooling
3x200mm, 1x140 and 1x120mm/**5x80mm fans
Keyboard
Logitech Media USB/**Saitek Eclipse
Mouse
Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
Internet Speed
3.3Mbps
Other Info
SB 560 5.1 w/ Sennheiser RS140/**Creative T20 speakers, Dvico FusionHDTV7 Gold RT, Cisco E3000, HP 5510V AIO, Linksys E3000, Belkin F5U237 hub and **F5D8055 adapter
(** = 2nd rig)
I've got more floor jacks and bottle jacks in the shop than I know what to do with. All but two came from the salvage yard. They end up in the scrap yard for all the same reason--They don't pump up. I do the quick test and nine times out of ten, they start working. I then buy them for $0.15/lb. (Earlier ones were ten cents a pound.) If there's no sign of leaking, a re-seal is a waste of money. A good cleaning will get them to work again. It's common for paint chips from the fill plug, dirt or bits of rust to get under the intake check ball. Give it try. It costs nothing.

Even though I've had this jack about 3 years, I think that I've only used it twice. It almost looks like new, the paint hasn't even been knocked of the wheels.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
DIY
OS
W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
CPU
Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
Motherboard
ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
Memory
2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Sound Card
Asus Xonar D2X/**Xonar D1
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H, Dell E152FPc /**LG M237-WD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 & 1024x768/**1980x1080
Hard Drives
WDC 2TB, 1.5TB, 1TB, 500GB,Seagate 500GB , Maxtor 80GB /**500GB Seagate & WDC 1TB Black
PSU
CM RS600 w/ APC BX1000G/**Antec 500 TP w/ APC BX1000
Case
HAF922/**Antec 1040IIB
Cooling
3x200mm, 1x140 and 1x120mm/**5x80mm fans
Keyboard
Logitech Media USB/**Saitek Eclipse
Mouse
Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
Internet Speed
3.3Mbps
Other Info
SB 560 5.1 w/ Sennheiser RS140/**Creative T20 speakers, Dvico FusionHDTV7 Gold RT, Cisco E3000, HP 5510V AIO, Linksys E3000, Belkin F5U237 hub and **F5D8055 adapter
(** = 2nd rig)
I agree with Layback Bear on the Chinese issue. There are really nice aluminum floor jacks available for less than $100. Similar to the kind NASCAR pit crews use(also Chinese though)
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built Desktop By DataTech
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate X64 SP1
CPU
Intel i5-2550K, Differing ~4.4-4.8GHz No built in GPU
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
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16GB G.Skill Sniper 1866MHz @ 2133MHz 2x8GB
Graphics Card(s)
ASUS GTX650TIB-DC2OC-2GD5, (650TI Boost)
Sound Card
Onboard Realtek 5-1
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung P2570HD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 840 Pro 256GB SSD for OS, 500GB Seagate Constellation (Enterprise drive) for Data
PSU
Corsair HX650W
Case
Inwin Dragon Rider
Cooling
Hyper 212 EVO w/two Noctua fans, push-pull, @1300 RPM
Keyboard
E-Z Eyes, bright yellow keys with large characters
Mouse
steelseries SENSEI Laser Pro Gaming
Internet Speed
48-51Mbs Mbs down, 11 Mbs up Xfinity Cable
Antivirus
Norton Internet Security 2013
Browser
IE 10, Opera, Pale Moon if needed
Other Info
4 case fans, LG BluRay-RE, ASUS DVD-RW, Mr. Fusion power supply, 1.21 gigawatts.
Yeah, I think it's still the check ball but a leaking pump seal could give you the same symptom. But a leaking seal on the pump will show oil around the plunger. The bodies are cast steel and it's not uncommon for the import products to contain sand or slag. This works it's way into the valve and pump. The check ball lifts to allow fluid into the pump when the handle is raised. When the handle is pressed down to pressurize the cylinder, the check ball is supposed to close. If there's dirt under the ball, it won't seal and the pump pressure leaks back into the reservoir. So there's little or no pressurization of the cylinder.

I don't know of any one that makes a seal kit for the imports. It's just not worth it. They'll be metric and if you do have to replace them, you'll just have to match them up. (I doubt any one will have listings.) Most hydraulic distributors should have the seals. The bearing distributor I use carries a selection of seals too. I think you'll find that replacement seals will cost more than you probably paid for the jack though.

In any case, don't load the jack when doing the clearing. You can't any way--The release valve needs to be open. The procedure is simply to flush fluid back and forth through the pump to dislodge debris from the check ball and seat. After that, then you can load test it. If it holds then do the cleaning procedure because you know it's dirt under the ball. ;)
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Built 2/11/2011
OS
Windows 7 Pro-x64
CPU
i7-2600 3.4GHz - 3.8GHz Turbo
Motherboard
Intel DH67BL-B3
Memory
8Gb - 2x4GB, Muskin 991770 PC3-1333
Graphics Card(s)
Integrated Intel HD 2000
Sound Card
Integrated Intel 10.1 HD, RealTek ALC892
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus LCD VH222H, Haier HL24XSL2a
Screen Resolution
1920x1080, 1920x1080
Hard Drives
Crucial SSD C300-128Gb,
Western Digital WD5002AALX - 500Gb,
Western Digital WD7501AALS - 750Gb
PSU
Seasonic 650W 80+ Gold Modular
Case
Rosewill Defender
Cooling
Stock CPU, Four 120mm case fans, PCH fan added
Keyboard
Logitech EX100 Y-RBH94 Wireless
Mouse
Logitech EX100 M-RCE95 Wireless
Internet Speed
3.0/1.5 Mbs
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Microsoft Internet Explorer 11
Other Info
Antec Veris Premier-Multimedia IR Station,
Cyber Accoustics-3602 Speakers,
AFT XM-5U Card Reader,
Hauppauge TV-HVR-2250,
Sony LX300 USB Turntable
I agree with Layback Bear on the Chinese issue. There are really nice aluminum floor jacks available for less than $100. Similar to the kind NASCAR pit crews use(also Chinese though)

Unlike most people, I don't use the floor jack in the garage (don't have one), I keep it in the vehicle in-lieu of a regular jack, because of it's greater ease of use.

The better floor jacks not only cost much more, but they are too heavy and large to keep in the vehicle. However, even though it only cost me ~$40 new, that is still somewhat expensive for a jack that only worked twice.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
DIY
OS
W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
CPU
Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
Motherboard
ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
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2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
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Yeah, I think it's still the check ball but a leaking pump seal could give you the same symptom. But a leaking seal on the pump will show oil around the plunger. The bodies are cast steel and it's not uncommon for the import products to contain sand or slag. This works it's way into the valve and pump. The check ball lifts to allow fluid into the pump when the handle is raised. When the handle is pressed down to pressurize the cylinder, the check ball is supposed to close. If there's dirt under the ball, it won't seal and the pump pressure leaks back into the reservoir. So there's little or no pressurization of the cylinder.

I don't know of any one that makes a seal kit for the imports. It's just not worth it. They'll be metric and if you do have to replace them, you'll just have to match them up. (I doubt any one will have listings.) Most hydraulic distributors should have the seals. The bearing distributor I use carries a selection of seals too. I think you'll find that replacement seals will cost more than you probably paid for the jack though.

In any case, don't load the jack when doing the clearing. You can't any way--The release valve needs to be open. The procedure is simply to flush fluid back and forth through the pump to dislodge debris from the check ball and seat. After that, then you can load test it. If it holds then do the cleaning procedure because you know it's dirt under the ball. ;)

I truly hope that you are right, because the alternative is to consign it to the dumpster. I wouldn't mind too much buying a new jack, but I've never had too much luck with hydraulic jacks in the past...probably because I didn't want to pay the price for a good one.
 

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Even the good ones can have this problem over time. I have several old "made in USA" floor jacks put back in use just by doing the same thing. It does work. I hope it works for you. Let me know one way or the other.

Back to work - More sandblasting to do.

TTFN
 

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I think being unused for long periods would be detrimental to a jack. The inner seal may deteriorate or harden or the fluid could absorb water and rust the innards.
 

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carwiz,

It appears that your tips worked. At least it held pressure for 10-15 minutes after exercising it as you described. I guess that means that I need to wash it out as mentioned and refill it.
 

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1920x1080 & 1024x768/**1980x1080
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WDC 2TB, 1.5TB, 1TB, 500GB,Seagate 500GB , Maxtor 80GB /**500GB Seagate & WDC 1TB Black
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CM RS600 w/ APC BX1000G/**Antec 500 TP w/ APC BX1000
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HAF922/**Antec 1040IIB
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3x200mm, 1x140 and 1x120mm/**5x80mm fans
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Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
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(** = 2nd rig)
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