I'm a Late Adopter - Do Not Want Win 8.1 - Is My Purchase Genuine?

baumgrenze

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I'm a born procrastinator. By the time I shopped MS no would longer sell me Win 7 (if if they still will, they've done a good job of hiding the possibility.) All their major authorized vendors are also out of stock, unless Amazon represented by an Amazon Seller is considered authorized.

I have an expensive sealed copy of Win 7 Pro Upgrade, SKU FQC -00130. I have an RMA to return it sealed to the vendor in Ft. Dodge, IA, a vendor with a very good BBB reference. An image of the COA is attached.

It looks genuine, although I have a question about the spacing of the digits in the upper right bar code (8224....) The ends are unbroken. The image distortions are from a fold in the shrink wrap. It seems that MS may have moved the green/white arrow circle (here in the lower right) around their COAs. The text on the cardboard sleeve contains no typos I can find.

There is no color shifting ink on the COA, but this could, perhaps predate that innovation.

Can anyone think of any questions I have not asked that apply to a still sealed package?

I've read enough about activation to realize that if this is a very clever counterfeit it may be months or years before Microsoft suddenly declares it unusable.

Thanks,

baumgrenze
 

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I'm a born procrastinator. By the time I shopped MS no would longer sell me Win 7 (if if they still will, they've done a good job of hiding the possibility.) All their major authorized vendors are also out of stock, unless Amazon represented by an Amazon Seller is considered authorized.

I have an expensive sealed copy of Win 7 Pro Upgrade, SKU FQC -00130. I have an RMA to return it sealed to the vendor in Ft. Dodge, IA, a vendor with a very good BBB reference. Here is an image of the COA.

It looks genuine, although I have a question about the spacing of the digits in the upper right bar code (8224....) The ends are unbroken. The image distortions are from a fold in the shrink wrap. It seems that MS may have moved the green/white arrow circle (here in the lower right) around their COAs. The text on the cardboard sleeve contains no typos I can find.

There is no color shifting ink on the COA, but this could, perhaps predate that innovation.

Can anyone think of any questions I have not asked that apply to a still sealed package?

I've read enough about activation to realize that if this is a very clever counterfeit it may be months or years before Microsoft suddenly declares it unusable.

Thanks,

baumgrenze

Did you buy it in a local store or over the Internet? If over the Internet, from whom?
 

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Here is an image of the COA.

I don't see any image.

But maybe that is just as well. You DON'T want to post an image of the 25 character "Product Key", which should be clearly visible on that COA.

You can post the COA, but please use a photo editing program of some type to blur out or cover up the Product Key's 25 characters.

Otherwise, someone else seeing the image could attempt to use the Product Key to activate their own installation, leaving you out in the cold.
 

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Hi I requested a review of the attachment,
It was removed for the reasons mentioned by ignatzatsonic,
Cheers.
 

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Help me understand. The 5 confusing and sometimes contradictory MS phone reps I spoke with yesterday all seemed to insist that I needed to open the package to see the product key and/or the activation code.

The image I posted is a Certificate of Authentication sticker. It is on the outside of the software packaging in a place where any storefront customer could examine it and jot down the information.

My research tells me that it is there to assure me that the package was delivered to me unopened. It has a perforated seam that runs down the edge of the plastic box that contains the disc(s) and any paperwork from MS. I do not think I posted anything inappropriate. Please take another look. Perhaps it should be reinstated?

Thanks,

baumgrenze

See:

http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/howtotell/Software.aspx


Certificate of Authenticity (COA)
COA%20Bar.png
coaRetailSoftware.gif

The COA is a sticker or a label that is attached to the retail packaging for products such as Windows, Office, or Windows Server. A COA should always accompany the product with which it is associated. COAs cannot be purchased separately. COA features the product name printed on the label and also contains anti-copy security features such as:

    • Interwoven security thread – is built into the paper and random paper fibers are visible when the thread appears at the surface
    • Color shifting ink edge - changes from green to magenta when viewed from different angles


Product key label
productKeyLabel.gif

The product key label is a white or orange label that accompanies the installation CD/DVD and Certificate of Authenticity (COA) for a product and contains a 25 character product key. The product key label should not be purchased separately.
 

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If you want to be 100% certain, return the thing and get a Windows 7 OEM from TigerDirect or Newegg for $89 or $99 depending on the day.
 
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I agree with above. Most consumers don't need Professional although I regularly see it for $130 on Tiger Direct. I'd buy Home premium, maybe two. Just remember that OEM locks to the first mobo installed upon.
 
Keeping my path simple involves 'staying on the path.' I have a machine running WinXP/Pro. I am trying to upgrade it to Win7/Pro/64bit. The hardware will work. Buying and installing an OEM copy is 'cutting corners' and not 'staying on the path.' I have in hand a product that a vendor ostensibly purchased from Microsoft and wants to sell to me. I'm having a hard time getting a straightforward answer.

I would appreciate it if someone would address the simple difference between a COA (Certificate of Authenticity) and a product code/activation code.

Thanks,

baumgrenze
 

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Keeping my path simple involves 'staying on the path.' I have a machine running WinXP/Pro. I am trying to upgrade it to Win7/Pro/64bit. The hardware will work. Buying and installing an OEM copy is 'cutting corners' and not 'staying on the path.' I have in hand a product that a vendor ostensibly purchased from Microsoft and wants to sell to me. I'm having a hard time getting a straightforward answer.

I would appreciate it if someone would address the simple difference between a COA (Certificate of Authenticity) and a product code/activation code.

Thanks,

baumgrenze

The straight forward answer is simple - there are no retail versions on the market - unless you pay horrendous prices from shady sources.
 

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...Except retail OEM. Again the difference is that it locks to the mobo once installed.
 
You miss the real point. Microsoft also misses the point. As a committed long-time user I am being driven from the Microsoft platform.

I came to this forum looking for some useful input on Windows 7. I guess I looked in the wrong place. I was told that a Microsoft COA contains information that should not be shared. I can only conclude that none of those who attacked my initial post have ever looked at a Microsoft product in a retail box. The COA is right there for anyone who picks it up to see.

I am on the cusp of downloading Ubuntu and burning a copy to a bootable DVD to see if I can adjust.

My guess is it will be more pleasant and less of a hassle than Win8 and it will be totally legal.

In 1982 I tried the AppleII+ and was never entranced by the Apple straitjacket. In 1985 I bought my first PC, a PC's Limited AT clone from Michael Dell (before he put his name on his products.) It ran on Billl Gates' and Microsoft's DOS. It was followed by a series of machines, all running Microsoft operating systems.

If you want another 'simple search project' to to find a list of which sellers of software are on Microsoft's approved list. Hint, you need to know that they are called "Microsoft Certified Partners" or you will never find anything. Even with that string finding a simple list is a difficult task.

Good night friends,

baumgrenze
 

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... I can only conclude that none of those who attacked my initial post ...
There's your problem right there - no one "attacked" your initial post. What you took as an attack was actually members of this forum attempting to look out for you.
 

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Built my first computer (8Mhz 8088cpu, 640K RAM, 20MB HDD, 2 360K floppy drives) in 1985 and have been building them for myself, relatives and friends ever since.
I really don't know what your problem is. You apparently have difficulties accepting realities.

I wish you lots of luck with Ubuntu - which I have used for 5 years and can still not figure out. You will especially like the new Unity UI compared to which Windows 8.1 is a piece of cake.

You should know that we have no association whatsoever with Microsoft and can really care less what you will be doing.
 

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Searching for images of W7 boxes shows lots of COA stickers on the outside of the box. That makes me wonder why those at MS told the OP that the box would need to be opened in order to see the COA?
 

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Keeping my path simple involves 'staying on the path.' I have a machine running WinXP/Pro. I am trying to upgrade it to Win7/Pro/64bit. The hardware will work. Buying and installing an OEM copy is 'cutting corners' and not 'staying on the path.' I have in hand a product that a vendor ostensibly purchased from Microsoft and wants to sell to me. I'm having a hard time getting a straightforward answer.

I would appreciate it if someone would address the simple difference between a COA (Certificate of Authenticity) and a product code/activation code.

Thanks,

baumgrenze

The COA is a sticker located on the outside of the plastic case across the joint between the two halves of the case and is supposed to help ensure that one actually gets a genuine product. There is no guarantee unless, even if you have seen them, because, though it is difficult, it is possible to crack open the case without damaging the seal and slip out the card with the activation code, then slip it back into the case (I tried it on one of mine before actually opening it just to see if I could), then reshrinkwrap it (I didn't try that but the equipment needed is easy enough to find online) and because the counterfeiters have gotten pretty good.

The activation code is a sticker stuck to the card on the inside of the case. You will not be able to see it until you open the case.

The point many people have been trying to make is there are only a few online vendors left that are safe to buy Win 7 from. I personally recommend only getting it from NewEgg if buying online (Tiger Direct is also probably safe but I've seen too many bad reviews about them for other reasons; Microcenter is also probably safe but I have had no experience with them). I also used to recommend Fry's Electronics but they don't stock even OEM anymore.

Retail is simply not available anymore except at outrageous prices from a handful of dodgy vendors. OEM is the same product as Retail, the only difference being that OEM is locked to the motherboard once it has been installed and can't be used on another computer like Retail can. There is no reason that you can't use OEM instead of Retail as long as your hardware is compatible (if you haven't used the Windows 7 Upgrade Advisor, I strongly recommend you go here to download it to verify that your hardware will indeed support Win 7). You simply do NOT need Retail to "stay on the path" and OEM is NOT "cutting corners".

BTW, the reason the M$ reps wanted you to open the case to get to the activation code is so they can verify someone hasn't already used it.
 

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Jeannie,

Thank you for a logical, straightforward answer. It is good to know that my research on the function of the COA is not flawed.

I posted the COA image because I was interested in input from people who might recognize a flaw in it, someone with more experience regarding what looks right and proper for a retail COA and what does not.

I remain disappointed by those who ‘protected me from my own stupidity’ when I included it in my post. I’d like an explanation why it should not be restored. If another copy is needed, I’ll be glad to supply it.

I, too, have read about the increased sophistication of the counterfeiters. I was disheartened to read that the 'activation process' is not the last hurdle in determining if a product is not a counterfeit. I readily found posts that reported examples of activated products that were declared counterfeit more than a year after installation. Apparently Microsoft waits until some critical level (undefined) of multiple activations with the same code before they declare all of them illegal. I don't understand the language of a post that reported that activation generates a "hash code" which is compared with the product ID. Perhaps it makes sense to you. What is clear is that Microsoft does not maintain a database of all the activation codes they have issued, shifting those that have been activated from one heap (new) to another heap (used.) Somehow that seems cavalier even if it is more cost effective for Microsoft.

Thank you, too, for your signature tagline about RAID. You drove me to read much of an angry exchange on whirlpool.net.au. I think I see better than I did before. When I bought my current machine I specified that the OS/Program file HDDs should be in RAID1. I’ve had more than one failure and appreciated how quickly I was able to get back up and running. That experience led me to install a second 500 GB drive so that my data is also in RAID1. Until now I didn’t appreciate that there are malicious people who might trash both drives simultaneously just because they can. I will try to wrap my 74-year-old mind around the solutions without becoming enmeshed in an all-consuming task. My computer is a tool, not my sole life interest. That’s why I waited with upgrading. That’s why I am ‘testy’ about being forced to fix an operating system that isn’t broken but soon will be for lack of support.

Thanks again for your patience.

baumgrenze
 

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Win 7 Pro 64Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 (2.4 GHz) Quad Core2 x Crucial 4GB Kit (2GBx2) DDR2 CT2KIT25664A...Sapphire Radeon HD 3870 PCIe 512 Mb
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PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom built by GamePC/Solid Electric - Palo Alto - on 03/10/08
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Win 7 Pro 64
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Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 (2.4 GHz) Quad Core
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one mounted and running Win7/Pro x64
one disconnected containing only Win10/Pro upgrade - in process
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BIOS: Award Software International, Inc. F6 06/18/2009

System Specs - Updated on 09//16/19
Not sure they are all dodgy vendors. However, it is so popular, it isn't cheap.

The OP has already bought it anyhow.

The question was how can he tell it is legit?

The sticker he posted originally is fine. It does not show the product key.

Not surprised he said goodnight.

I don't know how you can check if a key has been blacklisted.
 

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    7 X64
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    i5 8400
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    gigabyte b365m ds3h
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    2x8gb 3200mhz
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    various
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    pure power 11 400w cm
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    Coolermaster
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    cryorig m9i
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    7x64g54008gb ddr4 2400
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    7x64
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    g5400
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    ga b365m ds3h
    Memory
    8gb ddr4 2400
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    xfx pro 450w
Call MS Customer service. They confirm the key and if it doesn't work open a Support case to get it installed by whatever means necessary.
 
Thank you all for the supportive messages today.

I'm now inclined to open and install and take my chances. This has sure been a roller-coaster experience. Perhaps there are still steep drops to come. I hope not.

I tried asking at answers.microsoft (their community) and someone "microsoft engineer" gratuitously changed my posting subject so that it matched his answer rather than my question. Of all places, that was one where I thought I would find helpful, experienced eyes. Instead I was pointed to a MS website (not very helpful) featuring today's COA.

I will leave this 'unsolved' so that I can come back and close with my actual experience. Perhaps I will also add a note about the vendor if I think it appropriate. For those who suggested checking Newegg I suggest a Google search of this string "Newegg negative reviews." In particular, scan through some of the trustpilot posts.

Thanks again,

baumgrenze

FWIW, I went back and edited the OP and reattached the image.
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Win 7 Pro 64Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 (2.4 GHz) Quad Core2 x Crucial 4GB Kit (2GBx2) DDR2 CT2KIT25664A...Sapphire Radeon HD 3870 PCIe 512 Mb
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom built by GamePC/Solid Electric - Palo Alto - on 03/10/08
OS
Win 7 Pro 64
CPU
Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 (2.4 GHz) Quad Core
Motherboard
Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3P Intel P35 ATX (rev. 2.1)
Memory
2 x Crucial 4GB Kit (2GBx2) DDR2 CT2KIT25664AA800
Graphics Card(s)
Sapphire Radeon HD 3870 PCIe 512 Mb
Sound Card
RealTek audio on MOBO + EDIROL UA-1EX
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung S24A450BW 24" LED monitor
Screen Resolution
1600 x 1200 at 75 Hz
Hard Drives
2 Crucial 128 Gb SSD (CT128M550SSD1)
one mounted and running Win7/Pro x64
one disconnected containing only Win10/Pro upgrade - in process
1 1TB WD Caviar Black (WD1003FZEX-00MK2A0) (Data drive)
1 2TB Seagate 2TB (PN/ 9JB1N3-576 - ST2000DM001-1ER
PSU
Seasonic S12-HT 650W 80% Efficiency Power Supply
Case
Lian Li PC-B25B
Cooling
Gigabyte Silent-Pipe
Keyboard
Dell MS Comfort
Mouse
HP x4000 wireless
Internet Speed
Sonic FTTN @ 23 Mbps
Antivirus
Avast
Browser
SeaMonkey
Other Info
BIOS: Award Software International, Inc. F6 06/18/2009

System Specs - Updated on 09//16/19
Thank you all for the supportive messages today.

I'm now inclined to open and install and take my chances. This has sure been a roller-coaster experience. Perhaps there are still steep drops to come. I hope not.

I tried asking at answers.microsoft (their community) and someone "microsoft engineer" gratuitously changed my posting subject so that it matched his answer rather than my question. Of all places, that was one where I thought I would find helpful, experienced eyes. Instead I was pointed to a MS website (not very helpful) featuring today's COA.

I will leave this 'unsolved' so that I can come back and close with my actual experience. Perhaps I will also add a note about the vendor if I think it appropriate. For those who suggested checking Newegg I suggest a Google search of this string "Newegg negative reviews." In particular, scan through some of the trustpilot posts.

Thanks again,

baumgrenze

FWIW, I went back and edited the OP and reattached the image.

Could you provide a link (or links) to the posts you are referring to? I did the search and there were too many links to wade through.

NewEgg and its customer service have been slipping quite a bit the past year. However, I never have seen any reviews stating users received counterfeit software from NewEgg, unlike reviews I've seen on Amazon (both for Amazon itself as well as Amazon's Marketplace vendors).
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Win 7 Ultimate 64 bitIntel i7-3930KKingston HyperX Genesis 32GB Kit (8x4GB Modul...MSI R7850 Twin Frozr 2GD5/OC Radeon HD 7850 2...
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit
CPU
Intel i7-3930K
Motherboard
ASUS P9X79 WS
Memory
Kingston HyperX Genesis 32GB Kit (8x4GB Modules) 1600MHz DDR
Graphics Card(s)
MSI R7850 Twin Frozr 2GD5/OC Radeon HD 7850 2GB 256-bit GDDR
Sound Card
Asus Xonar Essence STX
Monitor(s) Displays
3x Asus VG248QE 24", Vizio 32" TV
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080, ?
Hard Drives
Samsung 128GB 840 Pro SSD (1),
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (4)
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (16) external backup drives used in 2.5" hot swap bays in the computer.
PSU
Corsair HX750w
Case
Antec Two Hundred v2 (modified)
Cooling
Cooler Master GeminII S524 120mm (fan replaced with a 140mm)
Keyboard
Logitech G510s
Mouse
Logitech M525 (two in use)
Internet Speed
=< 32Mbps down, 8Mbps up
Antivirus
AVAST!, MBAM, SAS, Spybot S&D (all but MBAM free) Glary Util
Browser
IE11
Other Info
LSI 9211-8i HBA card (8 SATA III ports), 2.5" & 3.5" Hot Swap Bays, HooToo HT-CR001 PCI-E to USB 3.0 Internal Hub + 6 Slot Card Reader, and LG Model CH12LS28 BD-ROM Optical Drive. Also, ScanSnap S1500 ADF duplexing scanner, Canon 9000F flat bed scanner, Corsair SP2500 2.1 speakers, Samsung CLP 415nw laser color printer, Cyberpower PP2200SW UPS
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