Installing a new motherboard

Amazing Aura

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If I replace my old motherboard (M3A78-CM (AM2)) with a newer one, so that I can start building my new pc, will ALL my other PC components (RAM, CPU HDD) will be recognizable by a newer motherboard? Because I will buy a modern motherboard and I'm guessing that it won't recognize these stuff since my cpu ram and other stuff are pretty outdated, they're old. I will start from the motherboard, then save up for other components.
Okay that's that. Now can anyone recommend me a good motherboard under 300 USD?
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
AMD Athlon 64 X2 Dual-Core Processor 5600+
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
Dual Core Processor 2.90Ghz
Memory
4GB DDR2 RAM
Graphics Card(s)
ATI Radeon Series HD 4800 Series
Sound Card
AMD High Definition Audio Device
Screen Resolution
1440x900
Hard Drives
Hitachi 298GB
Keyboard
Standard PS/2 Keyboard
Mouse
Logitech HID-compliant Mouse
Internet Speed
1.300MBps (TRANSFER rate), 70 to 80KBps upload speed.
Other Info
WEI: 5.9
You have an AM2/2+ socket board with DDR2 memory. That is fairly old hardware. You'd be wasting money if you buy another board with those things on them.

The current memory standard is DDR3 and the AMD sockets are AM3/3+, FM1, and FM2 so you should go with one with those specs. You will need a new CPU or APU and RAM.

For $300 you can have nearly any AMD board. IF you shop wisely you could get a board, CPU, and RAM for around $300.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built Desktop By DataTech
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate X64 SP1
CPU
Intel i5-2550K, Differing ~4.4-4.8GHz No built in GPU
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
Memory
16GB G.Skill Sniper 1866MHz @ 2133MHz 2x8GB
Graphics Card(s)
ASUS GTX650TIB-DC2OC-2GD5, (650TI Boost)
Sound Card
Onboard Realtek 5-1
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung P2570HD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 840 Pro 256GB SSD for OS, 500GB Seagate Constellation (Enterprise drive) for Data
PSU
Corsair HX650W
Case
Inwin Dragon Rider
Cooling
Hyper 212 EVO w/two Noctua fans, push-pull, @1300 RPM
Keyboard
E-Z Eyes, bright yellow keys with large characters
Mouse
steelseries SENSEI Laser Pro Gaming
Internet Speed
48-51Mbs Mbs down, 11 Mbs up Xfinity Cable
Antivirus
Norton Internet Security 2013
Browser
IE 10, Opera, Pale Moon if needed
Other Info
4 case fans, LG BluRay-RE, ASUS DVD-RW, Mr. Fusion power supply, 1.21 gigawatts.
You have an AM2/2+ socket board with DDR2 memory. That is fairly old hardware. You'd be wasting money if you buy another board with those things on them.

The current memory standard is DDR3 and the AMD sockets are AM3/3+, FM1, and FM2 so you should go with one with those specs. You will need a new CPU or APU and RAM.

For $300 you can have nearly any AMD board. IF you shop wisely you could get a board, CPU, and RAM for around $300.

The best choice is to just buy a new computer and upgrade it from there, isn't it?
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
AMD Athlon 64 X2 Dual-Core Processor 5600+
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
Dual Core Processor 2.90Ghz
Memory
4GB DDR2 RAM
Graphics Card(s)
ATI Radeon Series HD 4800 Series
Sound Card
AMD High Definition Audio Device
Screen Resolution
1440x900
Hard Drives
Hitachi 298GB
Keyboard
Standard PS/2 Keyboard
Mouse
Logitech HID-compliant Mouse
Internet Speed
1.300MBps (TRANSFER rate), 70 to 80KBps upload speed.
Other Info
WEI: 5.9
You'd probably be better off building from scratch or buying a custom built spec that you want. I don't really see the point of buying a system with the intention to upgrade, only upgrade when you need to.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
W7 Pro x64 SP1 | W10 Pro IP x64 | W8.1 Pro x64 VM | Linux Mint VM
CPU
i7-4790k @ 4GHz (4.4GHz Boost)
Motherboard
ASUS Sabertooth Z87 (BIOS Rev 2004)
Memory
16GB DDR3 Kingston HyperX Fury @ 1600MHz CL 9-9-9-27
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 980 Classified
Sound Card
Realtek Onboard
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung S27D390
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
240GB Intel 520 Series SSD |
Samsung 850 EVO 120GB SSD |
2TB WD Caviar Black |
2TB WD Caviar Black |
2TB WD Caviar Green
PSU
Corsair HX850-80 Gold Modular
Case
Cooler Master Silencio 650
Cooling
Corsair H80i w/2 x Corsair SP120 | 2 x 120mm Noctua NF-S12B
Keyboard
Microsoft Sidewinder X4
Mouse
Gigabyte M6900 optical
Internet Speed
152mb
Antivirus
F-Secure
Browser
Firefox 38.0
Other Info
Backup Rig: Win 7 Pro 64-bit | AMD A10-5800k | ASUS F2A85-V Pro | 8GB Samsung DDR3 @1600MHz | 120GB Toshiba SDD | 2TB Seagate HDD | Cooler Master Silencio 550
The best choice is to just buy a new computer and upgrade it from there, isn't it?

That's a possibility and some people take that route, but it wouldn't be cost-effective.

But if you want to "build it yourself", the more likely course would be to buy the individual components and assemble it yourself, so you have complete control from the start.

If I decided I wanted to buy a "new computer" already assembled, I probably would not intend to upgrade it for several years, assuming none of the individual components failed.

If I built my own, I'd probably gradually upgrade it piece by piece over 5 or more years. The most commonly replaced items would probably be the hard drives as they fill up with data. Processors might not be replaced at all because they rarely fail and because newer processors often aren't much faster than earlier models. Sooner or later, you'd have to buy a new motherboard because the newer processors would no longer be compatible with the socket of the original motherboard. Cases can be good for a decade or more. The DDR3 RAM standard has been around for I'd guess 5 or 6 years? SATA hard drives for at least that long.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Ignatz Special; 4 speed manual gearbox; factory air conditioning; one of one
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium SP1, 64-bit
CPU
Intel Skylake i5-6600K, not overclocked
Motherboard
AsRock Z170M Extreme 4, micro ATX
Memory
8 GB HyperX DDR4-2666 (2 x 4 GB)
Graphics Card(s)
none; graphics are integrated on CPU
Sound Card
onboard: Realtek ALC1150; external: USB Behringer UF0-202
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2340M 23 inch IPS
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
System: Crucial MX100 series SSD, 128 GB;
Data: Samsung Spinpoint 103SJ, 1 TB;
Backup: WD Caviar Green WD30EZRX-00D8PB0, 3 TB
PSU
Rosewill SilentNight 500 watt fanless, semi-modular
Case
Antec Solo II
Cooling
Noctua NH-U12S; Noctua F12 intake, Noctua S12A exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft 200 6JH-00001 USB
Mouse
Dell or Microsoft optical wired; USB
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials and Malwarebytes Premium
Browser
Pale Moon
Other Info
All fans PWM; speeds at idle: CPU circa 500 rpm; intake circa 600 rpm; exhaust circa 600 rpm; CPU temps 27 idle and 47 C load in a warm room (27 C/81 F) when running Intel Extreme Tuning Utility stress test.
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