Is my SSD's sandforce controller dead?

Izlude

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Hi all, my PNY XLR8 240GB SSD used to register as PNY 240GB 6gbps in the BIOS, but now it says Sandforce (2000xxxx) (0 MB) 3gbps. It wouldn't boot, so I used a spare drive to get into Windows and see if I could view the contents of my bad drive.

It won't appear in My computer if I use SATA connection, but with USB 3.0, it does show up and the files still seem to be on there. It says 17GB free of 223GB and the directories are still in the drive, however it says "Device is not ready" if I try to open any of the folders. (yes I can get into the drive and see the folders, but can't open them).

-Disk Management does not show the drive, via SATA or USB, but it does in My Computer (USB only).
-Some Recovery software (EaseUS, Recuva etc..) can see the drive, others can't. Scans turn up no files.
-Testdisk scans report read errors, the drive appears as unknown partition. Tried rebuilding BS, no results.

If the Sandforce chip is bad, would I still be able to double click the drive and view the folders within as I do? (USB 3.0 only). If in the case of a bad chip, I see they sell my model's chips for $25 on ebay, pre-balled. I'm just not sure a heat gun is a good for SSDs... unless I cover the other parts very carefully.

What does my problem actually sound like though? Bad Sandforce? or Bad Memory chips on the SSD?
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 10 Pro 64bit
CPU
i7 920 @ 4GHz
Motherboard
Rampage III Extreme
Memory
6GB Tracers
Graphics Card(s)
ASUS 5870v2
Hard Drives
Raptor X 150gb (with viewing window)
240GB PNY XLR8 SSD

and a bunch of dead backups
Sounds like a bad controller.

If you are thinking of replacing the controller on the SSD, you're going to have a hell of a time removing the old one. You will probably destroy the supporting circuitry in the process. It's probably not worth the aggravation and cost, and who knows what quality of controller you'll get from eBay? Possibly a factory second or third, if not outright counterfeit.

Not to sound negative, but if it were me, I would just cut my losses and retire the drive (i.e. destroy it) and move on.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Mellon Labs (custom build)
OS
Win 7 Pro x64/Win 10 Pro x64 dual boot
CPU
AMD FX 8350 Vishera @ 4200
Motherboard
ASUS M5A97 R2.0
Memory
16 GB Mushkin Blackline DDR3-2400 @ 1866 (9-10-10-10-31)
Graphics Card(s)
XFX Radeon R9 280 Double D Black Edition
Sound Card
Realtek HD Audio on MB. Sounds great.
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer 24", Acer 22"
Screen Resolution
3840 x 1080
Hard Drives
1 x Mushkin Chronos 120 GB SSD (Win 10)
1 x Samsung 850 EVO 250 GB SSD (Win 7)
1 x WD 1TB SATA Blue
1 x WD 1TB SATA Green
PSU
Corsair TX-750
Case
CoolerMaster HAF 912+
Cooling
Coolermaster Seidon 240M Liquid AIO. 6 case fans
Keyboard
Logitech G710+
Mouse
Logitech G500s
Internet Speed
Much better since I got fiber, but still way overpriced.
Antivirus
MSE, Malware Bytes for scanning
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
Corsair VOID USB headphones.

A Mellon Labs X-1 - LCD Smartie driven system status display.

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