Multiple Speaker Systems from One Computer

Lady Fitzgerald

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My computer build (which is currently on hold because the MOBO I want is out of stock everywhere I trust) will eventually need to drive two or (preferably) three powered sound systems similar to this one (I wouldn't use that one; when the time comes, I would buy locally so I can actually hear them first and they would be much nicer). Each sound system would be in a different room and I would have to run cables to each one. Would the MOBO's (ASUS P877Z-V DELUXE or PREMIUM) built in audio be able to drive them by using simple Y splitters coming out of the computer or would I need to add a sound card for each extra speaker system? All speakers would be playing the same thing.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit
CPU
Intel i7-3930K
Motherboard
ASUS P9X79 WS
Memory
Kingston HyperX Genesis 32GB Kit (8x4GB Modules) 1600MHz DDR
Graphics Card(s)
MSI R7850 Twin Frozr 2GD5/OC Radeon HD 7850 2GB 256-bit GDDR
Sound Card
Asus Xonar Essence STX
Monitor(s) Displays
3x Asus VG248QE 24", Vizio 32" TV
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080, ?
Hard Drives
Samsung 128GB 840 Pro SSD (1),
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (4)
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (16) external backup drives used in 2.5" hot swap bays in the computer.
PSU
Corsair HX750w
Case
Antec Two Hundred v2 (modified)
Cooling
Cooler Master GeminII S524 120mm (fan replaced with a 140mm)
Keyboard
Logitech G510s
Mouse
Logitech M525 (two in use)
Internet Speed
=< 32Mbps down, 8Mbps up
Antivirus
AVAST!, MBAM, SAS, Spybot S&D (all but MBAM free) Glary Util
Browser
IE11
Other Info
LSI 9211-8i HBA card (8 SATA III ports), 2.5" & 3.5" Hot Swap Bays, HooToo HT-CR001 PCI-E to USB 3.0 Internal Hub + 6 Slot Card Reader, and LG Model CH12LS28 BD-ROM Optical Drive. Also, ScanSnap S1500 ADF duplexing scanner, Canon 9000F flat bed scanner, Corsair SP2500 2.1 speakers, Samsung CLP 415nw laser color printer, Cyberpower PP2200SW UPS
You can only have one default audio playback device so multiple sound cards are not an option.

The audio out (Speaker out) will handle more than one system, whether it will handle 3 ???? You will have to be concerned with distance from the PC, too. Much over about 20 ft and there will be signal loss and some audio deterioration. The output from the PC is not a low impedence "speaker" type, it's a higher impedence audio signal and thus can be affected by cable length (how much ??? but it will have some deterioration. I'm a musician and an guitar amp tech and run a recording studio).

You can give it a try, but if it doesn't work you will have to use some type of distribution amplifier.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
My Own Build
OS
Windows 10 64 bit
CPU
Intel i7 6700K
Motherboard
ASUS ROG Maximus VIII Hero
Memory
16GB Corsair Dominator
Graphics Card(s)
Intel CPU Graphics
Sound Card
RealTek
Monitor(s) Displays
27" Dell S2719dgf
Screen Resolution
2560X1440
Hard Drives
1 TB Samsung 850 EVO SSD for Win 10 Pro
500GB Samsung 850 EVO SSD for Win 10 Insider
2 TB drive for backup
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EVGA Supernova 750G2
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BeQuiet Silent Base 600
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Deepcool Captain 120EX
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Microsoft Wireless 2000
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Microsoft wireless
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100 MB/sec (Cable)
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Microsoft Defender and Malwarebytes
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Edge/Firefox
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Cakewalk (Sonar) by BandLab and Studio One 4.1 Pro recording studio software. MOTU 896Mk3 Hybrid recording interface, Frontier Tranzport wireless control unit, Behringer X-Touch Control Surface.
Five USB connected optical drives for CD Audio production using Nero BurningROM
It seems like it might be a better idea to just buy one stereo receiver/amplifier that had the features you require along with several sets of floorstanding or bookshelf speakers and hook the amp up to your computer and run nice thick speaker wire from the amp to the speakers. I might not be understanding what you're suggesting, but I really don't see how it would work based on the way I'm reading your post as the wire that would connect the computer to the powered systems (would it be headphone extension cable?) is really crappy and thin, plus the length from the computer to the systems seems like it would require lots of extension cables involving several interconnects, with interconnects being the weakest links that can be quite prone to shorting out. By the time you bought all the cables/powered systems it seems like it would more than add up to the price of a good stereo receiver plus speakers.
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Premium 64
For the two longer runs, I was going to make up my own cables from at least 16 AWG shielded cable so there would be only the connector at the splitter and at the system amp.

I wouldn't be running all three sets of speakers at the same time, depending where I was and what I was doing. When I move to different quarters in the future (a travel trailer), I would want a set of speakers at the computer desk which will be in the living room and another set facing the couch, which would be 90° from the computer desk. Needless to say, if I'm listening from the couch, I wouldn't want the computer desk speakers running (and vice versa). I would also want the speakers facing the couch to be fed from the TV as well as the computer (not both at the same time, obviously). There would also be a set of speakers in the bedroom which I would like to receive input from both the computer and from a TV in the bedroom (again, not at the same time). Running cable for speakers from a central amp and switching them on and off at each location would be a nightmare. By using separate systems (2.1 since there won't be a place to put the rear speakers behind me although I might run a 5.1 system in the bedroom and opposite the couch to get the center speaker to avoid the hole in the middle; all speakers except the sub would have to be on the one wall), I can easily switch them on and off at each location with the systems' power switches. Another problem is that the speakers can't be large because of a lack of room (it's a travel trailer, remember?) and would have to hang off the wall.

Boosting the signal with an amp before the split is possible but I'm trying to minimize the boxes in the system (again, space constraints, not to mention the associated wiring jungle). Would a sound card have a stronger signal output than the on-board audio from the MOBO?
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit
CPU
Intel i7-3930K
Motherboard
ASUS P9X79 WS
Memory
Kingston HyperX Genesis 32GB Kit (8x4GB Modules) 1600MHz DDR
Graphics Card(s)
MSI R7850 Twin Frozr 2GD5/OC Radeon HD 7850 2GB 256-bit GDDR
Sound Card
Asus Xonar Essence STX
Monitor(s) Displays
3x Asus VG248QE 24", Vizio 32" TV
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080, ?
Hard Drives
Samsung 128GB 840 Pro SSD (1),
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (4)
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (16) external backup drives used in 2.5" hot swap bays in the computer.
PSU
Corsair HX750w
Case
Antec Two Hundred v2 (modified)
Cooling
Cooler Master GeminII S524 120mm (fan replaced with a 140mm)
Keyboard
Logitech G510s
Mouse
Logitech M525 (two in use)
Internet Speed
=< 32Mbps down, 8Mbps up
Antivirus
AVAST!, MBAM, SAS, Spybot S&D (all but MBAM free) Glary Util
Browser
IE11
Other Info
LSI 9211-8i HBA card (8 SATA III ports), 2.5" & 3.5" Hot Swap Bays, HooToo HT-CR001 PCI-E to USB 3.0 Internal Hub + 6 Slot Card Reader, and LG Model CH12LS28 BD-ROM Optical Drive. Also, ScanSnap S1500 ADF duplexing scanner, Canon 9000F flat bed scanner, Corsair SP2500 2.1 speakers, Samsung CLP 415nw laser color printer, Cyberpower PP2200SW UPS
I got two sets of Cyber Acoustics Model CA-3602 for the PC but I've since moved one set to the bedroom TV. These have a desktop control pod with On / off switch, Master volume, Bass volume, Headphone output jack and Aux in. It's 30 Watts RMS (6,6,18) in a 2.1 configuration. The pod would allow you to turn the speakers on or off in the individual rooms and control the volume in that room. It will rattle the walls if turned up full with bass. It uses a single stereo mini jack at the PC so it's 3-wire high impedance. The problem is that this type of interconnect is limited to about 20-30'. The shorter the better as the cable starts chopping or attenuating the high frequencies because of capacitance.

You didn't mention if this was for your personal listening while roaming from room to room or for individual listeners in the rooms. If this is just for roaming, you might consider wireless headphones. You could run your system speakers and the headphone transmitter off a stereo Y-splitter. I also have the wireless headphones for the bedroom TV.

For long runs, it's better to have long speaker wire than to have long interconnects.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Built 2/11/2011
OS
Windows 7 Pro-x64
CPU
i7-2600 3.4GHz - 3.8GHz Turbo
Motherboard
Intel DH67BL-B3
Memory
8Gb - 2x4GB, Muskin 991770 PC3-1333
Graphics Card(s)
Integrated Intel HD 2000
Sound Card
Integrated Intel 10.1 HD, RealTek ALC892
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus LCD VH222H, Haier HL24XSL2a
Screen Resolution
1920x1080, 1920x1080
Hard Drives
Crucial SSD C300-128Gb,
Western Digital WD5002AALX - 500Gb,
Western Digital WD7501AALS - 750Gb
PSU
Seasonic 650W 80+ Gold Modular
Case
Rosewill Defender
Cooling
Stock CPU, Four 120mm case fans, PCH fan added
Keyboard
Logitech EX100 Y-RBH94 Wireless
Mouse
Logitech EX100 M-RCE95 Wireless
Internet Speed
3.0/1.5 Mbs
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Microsoft Internet Explorer 11
Other Info
Antec Veris Premier-Multimedia IR Station,
Cyber Accoustics-3602 Speakers,
AFT XM-5U Card Reader,
Hauppauge TV-HVR-2250,
Sony LX300 USB Turntable
It's personal listening and I would be spending most of my time in one room at a time (other than quick pit stops). Wireless headphones aren't an option except, maybe, for outside; I wouldn't want to be listening to them while in bed, for example.

I already have a 5.1 Logitech system very similar to what you have. I had thought of getting a pair of Bose when I went shopping for speakers a few years ago after hearing a pair on a friend's MAC (we have "interesting" and fun discussions re: MAC vs. Windows) but, after listening in the store (yeah, I know, lousy acoustics) but I liked the sound of the Logitech better (5.1 hasn't worked out well, though, since there isn't room for proper placement of the back speakers; I'll probably move them up front with the front speakers and run the system on 2.1 ). I also liked the control pod the Logitech has since the speakers had to go on a high bookshelf (there just isn't room on the desk for them). I feel Bose is overrated (and overpriced) for computer speakers.

Long runs are going to be the bugaboo. The living room run would be roughly 30-35 ft and the bedroom run would be roughly 45-50 ft. The living room speakers would be located in a slide out and I might be able to locate the sub and amp (both are one unit) in the non-slide area (where to put it would be a problem) and run separate speaker wires to the wall in the slide but I couldn't do that in the bedroom since the sub would have to be in that room.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit
CPU
Intel i7-3930K
Motherboard
ASUS P9X79 WS
Memory
Kingston HyperX Genesis 32GB Kit (8x4GB Modules) 1600MHz DDR
Graphics Card(s)
MSI R7850 Twin Frozr 2GD5/OC Radeon HD 7850 2GB 256-bit GDDR
Sound Card
Asus Xonar Essence STX
Monitor(s) Displays
3x Asus VG248QE 24", Vizio 32" TV
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080, ?
Hard Drives
Samsung 128GB 840 Pro SSD (1),
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (4)
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (16) external backup drives used in 2.5" hot swap bays in the computer.
PSU
Corsair HX750w
Case
Antec Two Hundred v2 (modified)
Cooling
Cooler Master GeminII S524 120mm (fan replaced with a 140mm)
Keyboard
Logitech G510s
Mouse
Logitech M525 (two in use)
Internet Speed
=< 32Mbps down, 8Mbps up
Antivirus
AVAST!, MBAM, SAS, Spybot S&D (all but MBAM free) Glary Util
Browser
IE11
Other Info
LSI 9211-8i HBA card (8 SATA III ports), 2.5" & 3.5" Hot Swap Bays, HooToo HT-CR001 PCI-E to USB 3.0 Internal Hub + 6 Slot Card Reader, and LG Model CH12LS28 BD-ROM Optical Drive. Also, ScanSnap S1500 ADF duplexing scanner, Canon 9000F flat bed scanner, Corsair SP2500 2.1 speakers, Samsung CLP 415nw laser color printer, Cyberpower PP2200SW UPS
I have those Logitech Z313 speakers....let me tell you...I was overly surprised and the sound quality they produced. To boot (slang), I got them as a gift for christmas one year. Let me tell you, they are the best bang for the buck on the 2.1 side of it.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom built
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit
CPU
AMD Phenom II X4 965 Black Edition
Motherboard
Gigabyte GA-MA790X-DS4
Memory
GSkill 4 X 2 GB PC 8500
Graphics Card(s)
XFX Radeon HD 6790 D
Sound Card
On board RealTek HD
Monitor(s) Displays
Dual monitors:Samsung SyncMaster S20B300
Screen Resolution
1600 X 900
Hard Drives
Seagate Barracuda 1TB (primary)
Seagate Barracuda 2 X 320 GB
PSU
Ultra X4 750 watt fully modular
Case
Thermaltake Overseer RX 1 full tower
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Core-Contact 92 mm CPU Cooler
Keyboard
Logitech G510
Mouse
Razor DeathAdder
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50/5 Mbps UL/DL
Other Info
Optical: Super Muliti DVD burner w/lightscribe, Hauppauge WinTV HVR-1800
Actually, the ones I have are the now discontinued X-540. I paid only half at Best Buy of what Amazon's MarketPlace Thief...er...Vendor wants. Considering how the value has increased, mayhap I should sell mine and buy two better ones.

I agree, the sound is much better than one would expect from such small speakers.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit
CPU
Intel i7-3930K
Motherboard
ASUS P9X79 WS
Memory
Kingston HyperX Genesis 32GB Kit (8x4GB Modules) 1600MHz DDR
Graphics Card(s)
MSI R7850 Twin Frozr 2GD5/OC Radeon HD 7850 2GB 256-bit GDDR
Sound Card
Asus Xonar Essence STX
Monitor(s) Displays
3x Asus VG248QE 24", Vizio 32" TV
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080, ?
Hard Drives
Samsung 128GB 840 Pro SSD (1),
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (4)
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (16) external backup drives used in 2.5" hot swap bays in the computer.
PSU
Corsair HX750w
Case
Antec Two Hundred v2 (modified)
Cooling
Cooler Master GeminII S524 120mm (fan replaced with a 140mm)
Keyboard
Logitech G510s
Mouse
Logitech M525 (two in use)
Internet Speed
=< 32Mbps down, 8Mbps up
Antivirus
AVAST!, MBAM, SAS, Spybot S&D (all but MBAM free) Glary Util
Browser
IE11
Other Info
LSI 9211-8i HBA card (8 SATA III ports), 2.5" & 3.5" Hot Swap Bays, HooToo HT-CR001 PCI-E to USB 3.0 Internal Hub + 6 Slot Card Reader, and LG Model CH12LS28 BD-ROM Optical Drive. Also, ScanSnap S1500 ADF duplexing scanner, Canon 9000F flat bed scanner, Corsair SP2500 2.1 speakers, Samsung CLP 415nw laser color printer, Cyberpower PP2200SW UPS
i have my computer connected to an amplifier , my amp has several speaker connections and a feature to select different speakers. so set A front room ,set B bedroom or whatever way you want them.
Its a Technics amp and around 10 years old, i suspect that newer amps have these features for more sets.
maybe A,B,C,D this would be a decent solution
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Hewlett packard/p6512uk
OS
Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit 7600
CPU
IIx4 amd athelon 635 processor
Motherboard
FOXCONN 2AA9
Memory
2x2gb
Graphics Card(s)
ati radeon HD 5450
Sound Card
(1) Realtek High Definition Audio (2) AMD High Definition
Monitor(s) Displays
samsung lcd tv 32"
Screen Resolution
1360x 768
Hard Drives
(1) WDC WD10 01FAES-60Z2A0 SATA Disk Device (2) Maxtor OneTouch USB Device (3) ST310003 33AS USB Device (4) WD My Book 1111 USB Device
PSU
?
Cooling
air!
Keyboard
wireless hp
Mouse
wireless Hp,optical
Internet Speed
1.10mb/s
Antivirus
MSE
Browser
Firefox
i have my computer connected to an amplifier , my amp has several speaker connections and a feature to select different speakers. so set A front room ,set B bedroom or whatever way you want them.
Its a Technics amp and around 10 years old, i suspect that newer amps have these features for more sets.
maybe A,B,C,D this would be a decent solution

Except where do I place the amp (I'm not kidding when I say space will be a problem; heck it's a problem where I'm at now and it's larger)? I would also have to go from the bedroom to the living room to turn things on and off.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit
CPU
Intel i7-3930K
Motherboard
ASUS P9X79 WS
Memory
Kingston HyperX Genesis 32GB Kit (8x4GB Modules) 1600MHz DDR
Graphics Card(s)
MSI R7850 Twin Frozr 2GD5/OC Radeon HD 7850 2GB 256-bit GDDR
Sound Card
Asus Xonar Essence STX
Monitor(s) Displays
3x Asus VG248QE 24", Vizio 32" TV
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080, ?
Hard Drives
Samsung 128GB 840 Pro SSD (1),
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (4)
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (16) external backup drives used in 2.5" hot swap bays in the computer.
PSU
Corsair HX750w
Case
Antec Two Hundred v2 (modified)
Cooling
Cooler Master GeminII S524 120mm (fan replaced with a 140mm)
Keyboard
Logitech G510s
Mouse
Logitech M525 (two in use)
Internet Speed
=< 32Mbps down, 8Mbps up
Antivirus
AVAST!, MBAM, SAS, Spybot S&D (all but MBAM free) Glary Util
Browser
IE11
Other Info
LSI 9211-8i HBA card (8 SATA III ports), 2.5" & 3.5" Hot Swap Bays, HooToo HT-CR001 PCI-E to USB 3.0 Internal Hub + 6 Slot Card Reader, and LG Model CH12LS28 BD-ROM Optical Drive. Also, ScanSnap S1500 ADF duplexing scanner, Canon 9000F flat bed scanner, Corsair SP2500 2.1 speakers, Samsung CLP 415nw laser color printer, Cyberpower PP2200SW UPS
Convenience can be expensive and you're still stuck with running wires all over the place. That's made easier if you have a basement or attic otherwise you'll be pulling up carpet to hide wires. (Or maybe not.) :confused: Depends on how you view aesthetics. Hard to beat in-wall jacks. Another option is wireless speakers. There's plenty of new technology today for home theaters that eliminates "most" wires.

Have a look at this run down: Wireless Speakers Systems: A buying guide to Wireless Home Theater
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Built 2/11/2011
OS
Windows 7 Pro-x64
CPU
i7-2600 3.4GHz - 3.8GHz Turbo
Motherboard
Intel DH67BL-B3
Memory
8Gb - 2x4GB, Muskin 991770 PC3-1333
Graphics Card(s)
Integrated Intel HD 2000
Sound Card
Integrated Intel 10.1 HD, RealTek ALC892
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus LCD VH222H, Haier HL24XSL2a
Screen Resolution
1920x1080, 1920x1080
Hard Drives
Crucial SSD C300-128Gb,
Western Digital WD5002AALX - 500Gb,
Western Digital WD7501AALS - 750Gb
PSU
Seasonic 650W 80+ Gold Modular
Case
Rosewill Defender
Cooling
Stock CPU, Four 120mm case fans, PCH fan added
Keyboard
Logitech EX100 Y-RBH94 Wireless
Mouse
Logitech EX100 M-RCE95 Wireless
Internet Speed
3.0/1.5 Mbs
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Microsoft Internet Explorer 11
Other Info
Antec Veris Premier-Multimedia IR Station,
Cyber Accoustics-3602 Speakers,
AFT XM-5U Card Reader,
Hauppauge TV-HVR-2250,
Sony LX300 USB Turntable
Convenience can be expensive and you're still stuck with running wires all over the place. That's made easier if you have a basement or attic otherwise you'll be pulling up carpet to hide wires. (Or maybe not.) :confused: Depends on how you view aesthetics. Hard to beat in-wall jacks. Another option is wireless speakers. There's plenty of new technology today for home theaters that eliminates "most" wires.

Have a look at this run down: Wireless Speakers Systems: A buying guide to Wireless Home Theater

Running wires is not an issue; I can be quite creative when it comes to running wires and I'm not afraid of making holes. However, the distances the wires have to run apparently is going to be the issue.

Now, the wireless idea is looking really promising! What would really be nice is I could find a Wi-Fi speaker set; then a transmitter wouldn't be needed. I'll check out the article more thoroughly later; I have some errands to run shortly.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit
CPU
Intel i7-3930K
Motherboard
ASUS P9X79 WS
Memory
Kingston HyperX Genesis 32GB Kit (8x4GB Modules) 1600MHz DDR
Graphics Card(s)
MSI R7850 Twin Frozr 2GD5/OC Radeon HD 7850 2GB 256-bit GDDR
Sound Card
Asus Xonar Essence STX
Monitor(s) Displays
3x Asus VG248QE 24", Vizio 32" TV
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080, ?
Hard Drives
Samsung 128GB 840 Pro SSD (1),
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (4)
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (16) external backup drives used in 2.5" hot swap bays in the computer.
PSU
Corsair HX750w
Case
Antec Two Hundred v2 (modified)
Cooling
Cooler Master GeminII S524 120mm (fan replaced with a 140mm)
Keyboard
Logitech G510s
Mouse
Logitech M525 (two in use)
Internet Speed
=< 32Mbps down, 8Mbps up
Antivirus
AVAST!, MBAM, SAS, Spybot S&D (all but MBAM free) Glary Util
Browser
IE11
Other Info
LSI 9211-8i HBA card (8 SATA III ports), 2.5" & 3.5" Hot Swap Bays, HooToo HT-CR001 PCI-E to USB 3.0 Internal Hub + 6 Slot Card Reader, and LG Model CH12LS28 BD-ROM Optical Drive. Also, ScanSnap S1500 ADF duplexing scanner, Canon 9000F flat bed scanner, Corsair SP2500 2.1 speakers, Samsung CLP 415nw laser color printer, Cyberpower PP2200SW UPS
You sure can use more then 1 sound card, just pick which 1 you want the sound to come through when you want those particular speakers.:)

But, you can only have 1 default playback device at a time, but I`m sure that`s what you want.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Skylake Special #666
OS
Windows 10 Pro x64
CPU
Intel Core i7 6700K
Motherboard
Asus Sabertooth Z170 Mark 1
Memory
GSkill TridentZ RGB 16GB 3600 16-16-16-36
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 980 Ti SC x2
Sound Card
Realtek High Definition
Monitor(s) Displays
AOC G2460PG
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080 144Hz
Hard Drives
Samsung 860 Pro 256GB, Seagate Barracuda 4TB x2
PSU
EVGA 1000 P2, EVGA White Custom Braided Cables
Case
Corsair Vengeance C70 Gunmetal Black
Cooling
Corsair H100i v2, Corsair ML120 x2, Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
Keyboard
Logitech G910 Orion Spectrum
Mouse
Logitech G700s
Internet Speed
Verizon Fios Quantum Gateway 75/75
Antivirus
Windows Defender, Malwarebytes Free 3.8.3
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
Corsair SP120 x4, LG Blu-ray Drive, Durabrand HT-395 100 Watt Dolby Digital Amp, Corsair H2100 Wireless 7.1 Headset
Well, I looked into wireless and the only way I could find to get 2.1 or better was prohibitively expensive and required a lot of hardware connected externally to the computer.

I looked into WiFi and the best I could find was using an Apple AirPort Express plugged into an amplifier hooked to nonpowered speakers. Cost was reasonable but the AirPort express can't be used within 25 feet of a microwave or cordless phone due to interference (I had to download the manual to find that out). That kills that (mutter, mutter, mumble, mumble).

Looks like I'm back to Plan A (hardwiring) and looking for a way to boost the signal going to the speaker systems.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit
CPU
Intel i7-3930K
Motherboard
ASUS P9X79 WS
Memory
Kingston HyperX Genesis 32GB Kit (8x4GB Modules) 1600MHz DDR
Graphics Card(s)
MSI R7850 Twin Frozr 2GD5/OC Radeon HD 7850 2GB 256-bit GDDR
Sound Card
Asus Xonar Essence STX
Monitor(s) Displays
3x Asus VG248QE 24", Vizio 32" TV
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080, ?
Hard Drives
Samsung 128GB 840 Pro SSD (1),
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (4)
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (16) external backup drives used in 2.5" hot swap bays in the computer.
PSU
Corsair HX750w
Case
Antec Two Hundred v2 (modified)
Cooling
Cooler Master GeminII S524 120mm (fan replaced with a 140mm)
Keyboard
Logitech G510s
Mouse
Logitech M525 (two in use)
Internet Speed
=< 32Mbps down, 8Mbps up
Antivirus
AVAST!, MBAM, SAS, Spybot S&D (all but MBAM free) Glary Util
Browser
IE11
Other Info
LSI 9211-8i HBA card (8 SATA III ports), 2.5" & 3.5" Hot Swap Bays, HooToo HT-CR001 PCI-E to USB 3.0 Internal Hub + 6 Slot Card Reader, and LG Model CH12LS28 BD-ROM Optical Drive. Also, ScanSnap S1500 ADF duplexing scanner, Canon 9000F flat bed scanner, Corsair SP2500 2.1 speakers, Samsung CLP 415nw laser color printer, Cyberpower PP2200SW UPS
I'm not an audiophile but perhaps something like in the diagram below might work. Someone with audio electronics background may shoot it down but I doubt if you're looking for concert hall quality music. It's based on using stereo pre-amplifiers to extend the interconnect lines so that you could use standard remote 2.1 amplified speakers. The interconnect lines can be small (22-3, shielded) since they cary only about 1v. On extra long runs, daisy-chain the pre-amps. I know Pyle makes a lot of household and professional audio gear. From what I recall they have a lot of amps and pre-amps for $50 or less if you shop around.
 

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My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Built 2/11/2011
OS
Windows 7 Pro-x64
CPU
i7-2600 3.4GHz - 3.8GHz Turbo
Motherboard
Intel DH67BL-B3
Memory
8Gb - 2x4GB, Muskin 991770 PC3-1333
Graphics Card(s)
Integrated Intel HD 2000
Sound Card
Integrated Intel 10.1 HD, RealTek ALC892
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus LCD VH222H, Haier HL24XSL2a
Screen Resolution
1920x1080, 1920x1080
Hard Drives
Crucial SSD C300-128Gb,
Western Digital WD5002AALX - 500Gb,
Western Digital WD7501AALS - 750Gb
PSU
Seasonic 650W 80+ Gold Modular
Case
Rosewill Defender
Cooling
Stock CPU, Four 120mm case fans, PCH fan added
Keyboard
Logitech EX100 Y-RBH94 Wireless
Mouse
Logitech EX100 M-RCE95 Wireless
Internet Speed
3.0/1.5 Mbs
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Microsoft Internet Explorer 11
Other Info
Antec Veris Premier-Multimedia IR Station,
Cyber Accoustics-3602 Speakers,
AFT XM-5U Card Reader,
Hauppauge TV-HVR-2250,
Sony LX300 USB Turntable
I would need only one preamp since one of the speaker systems will be right at the computer desk. One approach I've considered is running a speaker line from the computer desk wall mounted left and right speakers through a switch (4PDT; only one pair would be live at any time) to each left and right speaker on the wall opposite the couch. Both sets could share the same subwoofer since sub placement isn't critical (as long as it isn't buried). I could have the sub on the floor under the computer desk in the knee hole (it works fine for me now). I could even use my existing system by using the rear speakers on the wall opposite the couch and run the system as a 2.1. The only concern I see might be a pop everytime I switch the speakers.

There is no way one can get concert hall quality in such a small space. Best one can hope for is CD quality, which is all the better the source is anyway (downloads and ripped CDs).

That would still leave the bedroom system needing a preamp to push the signal along to the system. Any links to a 2.1 preamp that could do the job and not need a lot of space? I haven't had much luck finding one.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit
CPU
Intel i7-3930K
Motherboard
ASUS P9X79 WS
Memory
Kingston HyperX Genesis 32GB Kit (8x4GB Modules) 1600MHz DDR
Graphics Card(s)
MSI R7850 Twin Frozr 2GD5/OC Radeon HD 7850 2GB 256-bit GDDR
Sound Card
Asus Xonar Essence STX
Monitor(s) Displays
3x Asus VG248QE 24", Vizio 32" TV
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080, ?
Hard Drives
Samsung 128GB 840 Pro SSD (1),
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (4)
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (16) external backup drives used in 2.5" hot swap bays in the computer.
PSU
Corsair HX750w
Case
Antec Two Hundred v2 (modified)
Cooling
Cooler Master GeminII S524 120mm (fan replaced with a 140mm)
Keyboard
Logitech G510s
Mouse
Logitech M525 (two in use)
Internet Speed
=< 32Mbps down, 8Mbps up
Antivirus
AVAST!, MBAM, SAS, Spybot S&D (all but MBAM free) Glary Util
Browser
IE11
Other Info
LSI 9211-8i HBA card (8 SATA III ports), 2.5" & 3.5" Hot Swap Bays, HooToo HT-CR001 PCI-E to USB 3.0 Internal Hub + 6 Slot Card Reader, and LG Model CH12LS28 BD-ROM Optical Drive. Also, ScanSnap S1500 ADF duplexing scanner, Canon 9000F flat bed scanner, Corsair SP2500 2.1 speakers, Samsung CLP 415nw laser color printer, Cyberpower PP2200SW UPS
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