OS getting slow when HDD is on full load

DavidMKD

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Alright, I have built this PC 5 years ago and it ran very fast without problems. Recently it started acting weird when the HDD was on load like programs loading slow and working with them, loading windows and the weirdest opening and loading pages with chrome/ie/mozilla. Everything got updated and now with fresh installation of Windows 10 and newest chrome it's still not working as it should. I ran few scans with MHDD and it has shown a lot of errors and delays then I ran it again with remapping on but from that point I think things got worse. I scanned with HDD Regeneration HDAT2 but still no hope. Erased the drive with write zeros still no hope. My question is could this be 100% HDD fault and if is, can it be used as secondary hard drive ONLY to store music and useless data? Below you can see some useful info about my config and the test I've ran, If something is missing let me know

HDD info

HDD Info with CrystalDiskInfo

HDD on IDLE

HDD on LOAD

S.M.A.R.T. values compared to other users

HDS log

CDI Log

MB: Foxconn P67A-S
CPU: Intel i5 2500
RAM: 6GB 1033
GPU: GTS 450 2GB GDDR3
HDD: Western Digital 1TB WD10EARS
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
David's Imperator
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
Intel Core i5-2500 3.3 GHz
Motherboard
Foxconn P67A-S
Memory
6 GB DDR3 RAM Silicon Power
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia GeForce GTS 450 2GB DDR3
Sound Card
Realtek HD Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Philips 226VLA
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
WD Green 1TB (1000GB)
PSU
250W
If the hard disk is starting to fail, I wouldn't use it for anything. I would backup the data, replace it, and throw it away.

You didn't say, but what did S.M.A.R.T. report the health of the drive to be?
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Mellon Labs (custom build)
OS
Win 7 Pro x64/Win 10 Pro x64 dual boot
CPU
AMD FX 8350 Vishera @ 4200
Motherboard
ASUS M5A97 R2.0
Memory
16 GB Mushkin Blackline DDR3-2400 @ 1866 (9-10-10-10-31)
Graphics Card(s)
XFX Radeon R9 280 Double D Black Edition
Sound Card
Realtek HD Audio on MB. Sounds great.
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer 24", Acer 22"
Screen Resolution
3840 x 1080
Hard Drives
1 x Mushkin Chronos 120 GB SSD (Win 10)
1 x Samsung 850 EVO 250 GB SSD (Win 7)
1 x WD 1TB SATA Blue
1 x WD 1TB SATA Green
PSU
Corsair TX-750
Case
CoolerMaster HAF 912+
Cooling
Coolermaster Seidon 240M Liquid AIO. 6 case fans
Keyboard
Logitech G710+
Mouse
Logitech G500s
Internet Speed
Much better since I got fiber, but still way overpriced.
Antivirus
MSE, Malware Bytes for scanning
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
Corsair VOID USB headphones.

A Mellon Labs X-1 - LCD Smartie driven system status display.

Brought to you by the letter E
If the hard disk is starting to fail, I wouldn't use it for anything. I would backup the data, replace it, and throw it away.

You didn't say, but what did S.M.A.R.T. report the health of the drive to be?

According to Windows, WD Data Life guard it says that it is OK but according to the logs I've posted above I'm sure that it is NOT OK. HERE is another S.M.A.R.T. log I've made just now. My main question was is it 100% that the HDD is making these hangs and freezes and slow downs when on load as explained above because I was told that the motherboard could do the same thing.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
David's Imperator
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
Intel Core i5-2500 3.3 GHz
Motherboard
Foxconn P67A-S
Memory
6 GB DDR3 RAM Silicon Power
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia GeForce GTS 450 2GB DDR3
Sound Card
Realtek HD Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Philips 226VLA
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
WD Green 1TB (1000GB)
PSU
250W

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1
CPU
AMD Phenom 2 1090T
Motherboard
Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD5
Memory
2x8GB Kingston HyperX Fury Black 1600Mhz Unganged
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GTX 970 Gaming 4G
Sound Card
Realtek On-Board HD 7.1 Audio / Logitech G35
Monitor(s) Displays
3xAcer GD245HQ
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 850 Pro 512GB SSD - OS /
WD Caviar Black SATA 3 - 1 TBx2 - Dynamic RAID 0 /
WD Caviar Green SATA 2 - 640GBx2 - Dynamic RAID 0 /
WD Caviar Green SATA 2 - 640GB - Internal Backup /
Seagate Barracude SATA 3 - 3TB - External Backup/ Sync
PSU
HighPower 1000W
Case
Cooler Master HAF 932
Cooling
Noctua NH-D14
Keyboard
Logitech G19
Mouse
Logitech G500
Internet Speed
100/4 Mbit Cable (100GB quota)
Antivirus
ZoneAlarm Extreme Security / MBAM Pro / MBAE Free / SAS Free
Browser
IE 11 - Firefox - Chrome
Other Info
Logitech F710/ G27/ G940/ Z5500 // TrackIR 5 // Nvidia 3D Surround Vision

That was the first thing I did with Windows 8.1, it was something I remembered a long time ago from this forum :D I installed Windows 10 and the problem is still there. No wonder that this is a hardware problem and it somewhat connected to the HDD for sure since the logs say that is partially dead, but I am not sure if other component is connected to it like motherboard or the SATA cables. The weird thing is that the HDD is SATA III, connected to SATA III slot on the motherboard and in BIOS it shows that the HDD is connected to SATA III but CrystalDiskInfo and HardDiskSentiel show that is connected to SATA II.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
David's Imperator
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
Intel Core i5-2500 3.3 GHz
Motherboard
Foxconn P67A-S
Memory
6 GB DDR3 RAM Silicon Power
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia GeForce GTS 450 2GB DDR3
Sound Card
Realtek HD Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Philips 226VLA
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
WD Green 1TB (1000GB)
PSU
250W
Try loading defaults in BIOS or clear CMOS (much better, check motherboard manual). But perhaps best is to get a new one, 4 reallocated sectors seem low, but they usually add up fast. Do you have any spare HDDs to try?

Also get a WD Blue at least, new greens are not good for OS drives. If you can afford a 120-250GB SSD and another HDD for storage, you won't regret.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1
CPU
AMD Phenom 2 1090T
Motherboard
Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD5
Memory
2x8GB Kingston HyperX Fury Black 1600Mhz Unganged
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GTX 970 Gaming 4G
Sound Card
Realtek On-Board HD 7.1 Audio / Logitech G35
Monitor(s) Displays
3xAcer GD245HQ
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 850 Pro 512GB SSD - OS /
WD Caviar Black SATA 3 - 1 TBx2 - Dynamic RAID 0 /
WD Caviar Green SATA 2 - 640GBx2 - Dynamic RAID 0 /
WD Caviar Green SATA 2 - 640GB - Internal Backup /
Seagate Barracude SATA 3 - 3TB - External Backup/ Sync
PSU
HighPower 1000W
Case
Cooler Master HAF 932
Cooling
Noctua NH-D14
Keyboard
Logitech G19
Mouse
Logitech G500
Internet Speed
100/4 Mbit Cable (100GB quota)
Antivirus
ZoneAlarm Extreme Security / MBAM Pro / MBAE Free / SAS Free
Browser
IE 11 - Firefox - Chrome
Other Info
Logitech F710/ G27/ G940/ Z5500 // TrackIR 5 // Nvidia 3D Surround Vision
Try loading defaults in BIOS or clear CMOS (much better, check motherboard manual). But perhaps best is to get a new one, 4 reallocated sectors seem low, but they usually add up fast. Do you have any spare HDDs to try?

Also get a WD Blue at least, new greens are not good for OS drives. If you can afford a 120-250GB SSD and another HDD for storage, you won't regret.

I just did a reset from BIOS but I guess it's the same, tomorrow I will clear the CMOS. I do not have any spare drive to try out but I was thinking of getting WD10EZEX with Samsung 120GB SSD.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
David's Imperator
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
Intel Core i5-2500 3.3 GHz
Motherboard
Foxconn P67A-S
Memory
6 GB DDR3 RAM Silicon Power
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia GeForce GTS 450 2GB DDR3
Sound Card
Realtek HD Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Philips 226VLA
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
WD Green 1TB (1000GB)
PSU
250W
I have seen only a couple of cases like this where a reset helps. CMOS reset usually is the same thing, but seldom it helps (no idea why).

Regarding HDD/SSD: Good choices, you won't regret.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1
CPU
AMD Phenom 2 1090T
Motherboard
Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD5
Memory
2x8GB Kingston HyperX Fury Black 1600Mhz Unganged
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GTX 970 Gaming 4G
Sound Card
Realtek On-Board HD 7.1 Audio / Logitech G35
Monitor(s) Displays
3xAcer GD245HQ
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 850 Pro 512GB SSD - OS /
WD Caviar Black SATA 3 - 1 TBx2 - Dynamic RAID 0 /
WD Caviar Green SATA 2 - 640GBx2 - Dynamic RAID 0 /
WD Caviar Green SATA 2 - 640GB - Internal Backup /
Seagate Barracude SATA 3 - 3TB - External Backup/ Sync
PSU
HighPower 1000W
Case
Cooler Master HAF 932
Cooling
Noctua NH-D14
Keyboard
Logitech G19
Mouse
Logitech G500
Internet Speed
100/4 Mbit Cable (100GB quota)
Antivirus
ZoneAlarm Extreme Security / MBAM Pro / MBAE Free / SAS Free
Browser
IE 11 - Firefox - Chrome
Other Info
Logitech F710/ G27/ G940/ Z5500 // TrackIR 5 // Nvidia 3D Surround Vision
Regarding the SSD choice, I would go with a 250 GB Samsung if you can afford it. They've really come down in price and that extra room for the OS and some vital programs really comes in handy.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Mellon Labs (custom build)
OS
Win 7 Pro x64/Win 10 Pro x64 dual boot
CPU
AMD FX 8350 Vishera @ 4200
Motherboard
ASUS M5A97 R2.0
Memory
16 GB Mushkin Blackline DDR3-2400 @ 1866 (9-10-10-10-31)
Graphics Card(s)
XFX Radeon R9 280 Double D Black Edition
Sound Card
Realtek HD Audio on MB. Sounds great.
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer 24", Acer 22"
Screen Resolution
3840 x 1080
Hard Drives
1 x Mushkin Chronos 120 GB SSD (Win 10)
1 x Samsung 850 EVO 250 GB SSD (Win 7)
1 x WD 1TB SATA Blue
1 x WD 1TB SATA Green
PSU
Corsair TX-750
Case
CoolerMaster HAF 912+
Cooling
Coolermaster Seidon 240M Liquid AIO. 6 case fans
Keyboard
Logitech G710+
Mouse
Logitech G500s
Internet Speed
Much better since I got fiber, but still way overpriced.
Antivirus
MSE, Malware Bytes for scanning
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
Corsair VOID USB headphones.

A Mellon Labs X-1 - LCD Smartie driven system status display.

Brought to you by the letter E
I have seen only a couple of cases like this where a reset helps. CMOS reset usually is the same thing, but seldom it helps (no idea why).

Regarding HDD/SSD: Good choices, you won't regret.

Alright it might sound dumb but actually on the HDD it says SATA 3Gb/s and every time I read subconsciously was thinking that it is SATA III :D I bought the WD10EZEX and connected it to SATA III port and it's blazing fast, I'll take the SSD later and install Windows on it. I wanted to ask is it ok to keep the old WD10EARS in system only for keeping some data that I don't actually need or backup since it kinda works?

Regarding the SSD choice, I would go with a 250 GB Samsung if you can afford it. They've really come down in price and that extra room for the OS and some vital programs really comes in handy.

Where I live the 250 GB Samsung is actually double the price of 2 Samsung 120s and I don't really need that much since I mostly use it for regular daily tasks and university projects. Currently I have 150GB partition for Win10 and 850GB separate for other things. But thanks for the suggestion that you gave me
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
David's Imperator
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
Intel Core i5-2500 3.3 GHz
Motherboard
Foxconn P67A-S
Memory
6 GB DDR3 RAM Silicon Power
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia GeForce GTS 450 2GB DDR3
Sound Card
Realtek HD Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Philips 226VLA
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
WD Green 1TB (1000GB)
PSU
250W
Yeah, SATA 3Gb/s is SATA II. The old HDD, you can keep plugged in, but it may slow down the system nevertheless and I would not trust it with anything important. If you don't mind losing whatever on it (may happen tomorrow, or not in a year, one can never know for certain) then you can keep it. So if you see any issues, remember to remove it first thing you do, and see if it solves the issue.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1
CPU
AMD Phenom 2 1090T
Motherboard
Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD5
Memory
2x8GB Kingston HyperX Fury Black 1600Mhz Unganged
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GTX 970 Gaming 4G
Sound Card
Realtek On-Board HD 7.1 Audio / Logitech G35
Monitor(s) Displays
3xAcer GD245HQ
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 850 Pro 512GB SSD - OS /
WD Caviar Black SATA 3 - 1 TBx2 - Dynamic RAID 0 /
WD Caviar Green SATA 2 - 640GBx2 - Dynamic RAID 0 /
WD Caviar Green SATA 2 - 640GB - Internal Backup /
Seagate Barracude SATA 3 - 3TB - External Backup/ Sync
PSU
HighPower 1000W
Case
Cooler Master HAF 932
Cooling
Noctua NH-D14
Keyboard
Logitech G19
Mouse
Logitech G500
Internet Speed
100/4 Mbit Cable (100GB quota)
Antivirus
ZoneAlarm Extreme Security / MBAM Pro / MBAE Free / SAS Free
Browser
IE 11 - Firefox - Chrome
Other Info
Logitech F710/ G27/ G940/ Z5500 // TrackIR 5 // Nvidia 3D Surround Vision
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