Solved PC repair - removing harddrive

sezan1

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Hey, I'm needing to take my desktop to a repair shop to get the HDMI fixed - my hdmi broke because of 'hotplugging' it. So I need to get it looked at. I'm planning on removing the harddrive to keep all my information safe. I'm not into dealing with hardware much so I have a few stupid questions;

If I remove the harddrive is it as simple as plugging it all back in to go to the way it was originally?;
If they for some reason need to use another harddrive on my desktop 'as I've heard they do keep spares in case they are given a laptop/desktop without one' - will it cause any conflicts when I put mine back in? 'not sure how these things work'.

Any help will be appreciated. :rolleyes::rolleyes: :o
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
AuthenticAMD
OS
Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64-bit
CPU
AMD Ryzen 5 1600 Six-Core Processor
Motherboard
PRIME B350-PLUS
Memory
16.00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
Radeon (TM) RX 480 Graphics
Shouldn't be a problem assuming they don't change any hardware.

What do you mean by fixing HDMI? If you have a bad HDMI port, are they going to replace the motherboard? If they did that, then you might well have a problem when you reinstall the drive.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Ignatz Special; 4 speed manual gearbox; factory air conditioning; one of one
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium SP1, 64-bit
CPU
Intel Skylake i5-6600K, not overclocked
Motherboard
AsRock Z170M Extreme 4, micro ATX
Memory
8 GB HyperX DDR4-2666 (2 x 4 GB)
Graphics Card(s)
none; graphics are integrated on CPU
Sound Card
onboard: Realtek ALC1150; external: USB Behringer UF0-202
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2340M 23 inch IPS
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
System: Crucial MX100 series SSD, 128 GB;
Data: Samsung Spinpoint 103SJ, 1 TB;
Backup: WD Caviar Green WD30EZRX-00D8PB0, 3 TB
PSU
Rosewill SilentNight 500 watt fanless, semi-modular
Case
Antec Solo II
Cooling
Noctua NH-U12S; Noctua F12 intake, Noctua S12A exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft 200 6JH-00001 USB
Mouse
Dell or Microsoft optical wired; USB
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials and Malwarebytes Premium
Browser
Pale Moon
Other Info
All fans PWM; speeds at idle: CPU circa 500 rpm; intake circa 600 rpm; exhaust circa 600 rpm; CPU temps 27 idle and 47 C load in a warm room (27 C/81 F) when running Intel Extreme Tuning Utility stress test.
Shouldn't be a problem assuming they don't change any hardware.

What do you mean by fixing HDMI? If you have a bad HDMI port, are they going to replace the motherboard? If they did that, then you might well have a problem when you reinstall the drive.

Well I'm not sure if it is the motherboard, basically whats happened is.. hotplugging caused some problem with the hdmi.. vga works which I'm using now but I'm gonna upgrade my TV and it doesn't support VGA... so yeah XD, whats the chances of it being motherboard - how would I be able to tell you? I'm only gonna pay for them to look at it and tell me first of all :zip: I'm pretty new when it comes to hardware stuff :sick:
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
AuthenticAMD
OS
Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64-bit
CPU
AMD Ryzen 5 1600 Six-Core Processor
Motherboard
PRIME B350-PLUS
Memory
16.00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
Radeon (TM) RX 480 Graphics
Hard to say as we don't know why HDMI won't work.

Maybe it's a physically damaged port.

A failed port isn't a rare occurrence. Motherboards are among the least reliable components of a computer. Quality control is generally mediocre.

Maybe it's something you did wrong in the configuration.

Maybe it's a cable issue.

Etc.

If the port is physically damaged, they may want to replace the board.

You may be dealing with a reliable outfit or a band of thieves. I don't know. It's like a car mechanic. If he tells you the yadayada needs to be replaced, you're on the hook for it unless you have a second opinion or are well-informed yourself.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Ignatz Special; 4 speed manual gearbox; factory air conditioning; one of one
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium SP1, 64-bit
CPU
Intel Skylake i5-6600K, not overclocked
Motherboard
AsRock Z170M Extreme 4, micro ATX
Memory
8 GB HyperX DDR4-2666 (2 x 4 GB)
Graphics Card(s)
none; graphics are integrated on CPU
Sound Card
onboard: Realtek ALC1150; external: USB Behringer UF0-202
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2340M 23 inch IPS
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
System: Crucial MX100 series SSD, 128 GB;
Data: Samsung Spinpoint 103SJ, 1 TB;
Backup: WD Caviar Green WD30EZRX-00D8PB0, 3 TB
PSU
Rosewill SilentNight 500 watt fanless, semi-modular
Case
Antec Solo II
Cooling
Noctua NH-U12S; Noctua F12 intake, Noctua S12A exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft 200 6JH-00001 USB
Mouse
Dell or Microsoft optical wired; USB
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials and Malwarebytes Premium
Browser
Pale Moon
Other Info
All fans PWM; speeds at idle: CPU circa 500 rpm; intake circa 600 rpm; exhaust circa 600 rpm; CPU temps 27 idle and 47 C load in a warm room (27 C/81 F) when running Intel Extreme Tuning Utility stress test.
Hard to say as we don't know why HDMI won't work.

Maybe it's a physically damaged port.

A failed port isn't a rare occurrence. Motherboards are among the least reliable components of a computer. Quality control is generally mediocre.

Maybe it's something you did wrong in the configuration.

Maybe it's a cable issue.

Etc.

If the port is physically damaged, they may want to replace the board.

You may be dealing with a reliable outfit or a band of thieves. I don't know. It's like a car mechanic. If he tells you the yadayada needs to be replaced, you're on the hook for it unless you have a second opinion or are well-informed yourself.



yeah I'm aware of this sadly lol. Is there a way to check if it is the motherboard?. It could be the port as I was using a rather unreliable HDMI cable and kept plugging it in and out.. or it could of caused a problem n blown. I've checked with other hdmi cables and no luck lol.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
AuthenticAMD
OS
Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64-bit
CPU
AMD Ryzen 5 1600 Six-Core Processor
Motherboard
PRIME B350-PLUS
Memory
16.00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
Radeon (TM) RX 480 Graphics
I wouldn't expect a shop to devote much time to the diagnosis or do any "repairs" of a bad port. If HDMI won't work with a known good cable, my guess would be they'll just assume the port is bad and tell you to replace the board. They'd just make an inference.

I assume they could use a tool to evaluate the port and determine if it's inert/dead, but I don't know if they'd go to that trouble.

I don't know much about HDMI, so there may be some configuration nuance that would apply. But if you had it working OK and now it won't, I'd assume you had the correct configuration at one time.

You're putty in their hands unless you get a second opinion---which is tough to justify if you are paying $40 bucks on up per opinion, when a new board is maybe $150.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Ignatz Special; 4 speed manual gearbox; factory air conditioning; one of one
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium SP1, 64-bit
CPU
Intel Skylake i5-6600K, not overclocked
Motherboard
AsRock Z170M Extreme 4, micro ATX
Memory
8 GB HyperX DDR4-2666 (2 x 4 GB)
Graphics Card(s)
none; graphics are integrated on CPU
Sound Card
onboard: Realtek ALC1150; external: USB Behringer UF0-202
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2340M 23 inch IPS
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
System: Crucial MX100 series SSD, 128 GB;
Data: Samsung Spinpoint 103SJ, 1 TB;
Backup: WD Caviar Green WD30EZRX-00D8PB0, 3 TB
PSU
Rosewill SilentNight 500 watt fanless, semi-modular
Case
Antec Solo II
Cooling
Noctua NH-U12S; Noctua F12 intake, Noctua S12A exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft 200 6JH-00001 USB
Mouse
Dell or Microsoft optical wired; USB
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials and Malwarebytes Premium
Browser
Pale Moon
Other Info
All fans PWM; speeds at idle: CPU circa 500 rpm; intake circa 600 rpm; exhaust circa 600 rpm; CPU temps 27 idle and 47 C load in a warm room (27 C/81 F) when running Intel Extreme Tuning Utility stress test.
Alright so if its the motherboard and it needs replacing I can still keep the harddrive with me or what? :p.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
AuthenticAMD
OS
Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64-bit
CPU
AMD Ryzen 5 1600 Six-Core Processor
Motherboard
PRIME B350-PLUS
Memory
16.00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
Radeon (TM) RX 480 Graphics
Alright so if its the motherboard and it needs replacing I can still keep the harddrive with me or what? :p.

If you replace it with an identical make and model motherboard, you shouldn't notice the difference.

If you replace it with a different motherboard that has the same chipset, you probably won't have any significant trouble and may just need to make a few adjustments. I'd expect the PC to boot when you reconnect the current hard drive.

If you replace it with a different motherboard that has a different chipset, you can expect problems, but it may be that fixing those problems is still less of a hassle than reinstalling Windows and all applications. The PC would probably boot, but may look totally goofy on screen. You'd have to fix a number of things--mostly driver related.

If you don't mind reinstalling Windows and all applications, most people would tell you to do that UNLESS you are replacing the board with an identical make and model.

Regardless--the hard drive will still "work" and you can do with it as you wish. The problems you may have would be Windows issues, not hard drive issues.

I see this is an AMD system that you have. My above comments would refer to an Intel system. I don't know if an AMD system would have about the same problems or be considerably different.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Ignatz Special; 4 speed manual gearbox; factory air conditioning; one of one
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium SP1, 64-bit
CPU
Intel Skylake i5-6600K, not overclocked
Motherboard
AsRock Z170M Extreme 4, micro ATX
Memory
8 GB HyperX DDR4-2666 (2 x 4 GB)
Graphics Card(s)
none; graphics are integrated on CPU
Sound Card
onboard: Realtek ALC1150; external: USB Behringer UF0-202
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2340M 23 inch IPS
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
System: Crucial MX100 series SSD, 128 GB;
Data: Samsung Spinpoint 103SJ, 1 TB;
Backup: WD Caviar Green WD30EZRX-00D8PB0, 3 TB
PSU
Rosewill SilentNight 500 watt fanless, semi-modular
Case
Antec Solo II
Cooling
Noctua NH-U12S; Noctua F12 intake, Noctua S12A exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft 200 6JH-00001 USB
Mouse
Dell or Microsoft optical wired; USB
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials and Malwarebytes Premium
Browser
Pale Moon
Other Info
All fans PWM; speeds at idle: CPU circa 500 rpm; intake circa 600 rpm; exhaust circa 600 rpm; CPU temps 27 idle and 47 C load in a warm room (27 C/81 F) when running Intel Extreme Tuning Utility stress test.

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
AuthenticAMD
OS
Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64-bit
CPU
AMD Ryzen 5 1600 Six-Core Processor
Motherboard
PRIME B350-PLUS
Memory
16.00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
Radeon (TM) RX 480 Graphics
I know nothing about either of those products.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Ignatz Special; 4 speed manual gearbox; factory air conditioning; one of one
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium SP1, 64-bit
CPU
Intel Skylake i5-6600K, not overclocked
Motherboard
AsRock Z170M Extreme 4, micro ATX
Memory
8 GB HyperX DDR4-2666 (2 x 4 GB)
Graphics Card(s)
none; graphics are integrated on CPU
Sound Card
onboard: Realtek ALC1150; external: USB Behringer UF0-202
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2340M 23 inch IPS
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
System: Crucial MX100 series SSD, 128 GB;
Data: Samsung Spinpoint 103SJ, 1 TB;
Backup: WD Caviar Green WD30EZRX-00D8PB0, 3 TB
PSU
Rosewill SilentNight 500 watt fanless, semi-modular
Case
Antec Solo II
Cooling
Noctua NH-U12S; Noctua F12 intake, Noctua S12A exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft 200 6JH-00001 USB
Mouse
Dell or Microsoft optical wired; USB
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials and Malwarebytes Premium
Browser
Pale Moon
Other Info
All fans PWM; speeds at idle: CPU circa 500 rpm; intake circa 600 rpm; exhaust circa 600 rpm; CPU temps 27 idle and 47 C load in a warm room (27 C/81 F) when running Intel Extreme Tuning Utility stress test.

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
AuthenticAMD
OS
Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64-bit
CPU
AMD Ryzen 5 1600 Six-Core Processor
Motherboard
PRIME B350-PLUS
Memory
16.00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
Radeon (TM) RX 480 Graphics
no clue what computer you`re talking about, you don`t say.

But, if it`s the one in your specs, then just buy a new video card, get rid of that amd card and get something by EVGA.

EVGA - Intelligent Innovation - Official Website

If it`s a laptop, no one fixes HDMI ports, you will need a new motherboard.

There is no reason to remove the hard drive, leave it alone.

Also, why are you using an HDTV for a computer monitor ? They are horrible for computer monitors.

Use an HDTV for what`s it`s meant for, HDTV, or BluRay movies and gaming through a PS3/4 :D
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Skylake Special #666
OS
Windows 10 Pro x64
CPU
Intel Core i7 6700K
Motherboard
Asus Sabertooth Z170 Mark 1
Memory
GSkill TridentZ RGB 16GB 3600 16-16-16-36
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 980 Ti SC x2
Sound Card
Realtek High Definition
Monitor(s) Displays
AOC G2460PG
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080 144Hz
Hard Drives
Samsung 860 Pro 256GB, Seagate Barracuda 4TB x2
PSU
EVGA 1000 P2, EVGA White Custom Braided Cables
Case
Corsair Vengeance C70 Gunmetal Black
Cooling
Corsair H100i v2, Corsair ML120 x2, Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
Keyboard
Logitech G910 Orion Spectrum
Mouse
Logitech G700s
Internet Speed
Verizon Fios Quantum Gateway 75/75
Antivirus
Windows Defender, Malwarebytes Free 3.8.3
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
Corsair SP120 x4, LG Blu-ray Drive, Durabrand HT-395 100 Watt Dolby Digital Amp, Corsair H2100 Wireless 7.1 Headset
no clue what computer you`re talking about, you don`t say.

But, if it`s the one in your specs, then just buy a new video card, get rid of that amd card and get something by EVGA.

EVGA - Intelligent Innovation - Official Website

If it`s a laptop, no one fixes HDMI ports, you will need a new motherboard.

There is no reason to remove the hard drive, leave it alone.

Also, why are you using an HDTV for a computer monitor ? They are horrible for computer monitors.

Use an HDTV for what`s it`s meant for, HDTV, or BluRay movies and gaming through a PS3/4 :D



Yea its the one in the specs ^^.
it's the desktop :P. removing it was just for taking it to get fixed, just to protect all my files, idk I'm a bit skeptical about leaving it lol.

Maybe backing up files to external harddrive and wiping computer clean is an option.

I will be doing that but I'm currently using my 32" technika TV as a pc screen atm, so was wanting to replace my whole TV with an upgrade, if its even slightly better than this technika TV I'll be happy man :p

price of those graphics cards are worth more than the computer lol. I may be looking for a new card to run at 3840x2160 res for the TV, since the max on this one is 2560 or something?. or would it still run fine on the TV?.
 
Last edited:

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
AuthenticAMD
OS
Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64-bit
CPU
AMD Ryzen 5 1600 Six-Core Processor
Motherboard
PRIME B350-PLUS
Memory
16.00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
Radeon (TM) RX 480 Graphics
My point is, if you think the HDMI port is shot, then you just buy a new card, don`t pay someone to tell you what we can tell you for free.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Skylake Special #666
OS
Windows 10 Pro x64
CPU
Intel Core i7 6700K
Motherboard
Asus Sabertooth Z170 Mark 1
Memory
GSkill TridentZ RGB 16GB 3600 16-16-16-36
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 980 Ti SC x2
Sound Card
Realtek High Definition
Monitor(s) Displays
AOC G2460PG
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080 144Hz
Hard Drives
Samsung 860 Pro 256GB, Seagate Barracuda 4TB x2
PSU
EVGA 1000 P2, EVGA White Custom Braided Cables
Case
Corsair Vengeance C70 Gunmetal Black
Cooling
Corsair H100i v2, Corsair ML120 x2, Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
Keyboard
Logitech G910 Orion Spectrum
Mouse
Logitech G700s
Internet Speed
Verizon Fios Quantum Gateway 75/75
Antivirus
Windows Defender, Malwarebytes Free 3.8.3
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
Corsair SP120 x4, LG Blu-ray Drive, Durabrand HT-395 100 Watt Dolby Digital Amp, Corsair H2100 Wireless 7.1 Headset
My point is, if you think the HDMI port is shot, then you just buy a new card, don`t pay someone to tell you what we can tell you for free.

Yea I appreciate it :o ;) thanks for your help!
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
AuthenticAMD
OS
Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64-bit
CPU
AMD Ryzen 5 1600 Six-Core Processor
Motherboard
PRIME B350-PLUS
Memory
16.00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
Radeon (TM) RX 480 Graphics
no clue what computer you`re talking about, you don`t say.

But, if it`s the one in your specs, then just buy a new video card, get rid of that amd card and get something by EVGA.

Not that easy with integrated graphics.

Last time I bought an HDMI cable, there was a note in the package warning about hotplugging causing damage. Folk on this forum and elsewhere said 'rubbish - I do this all the time'. Seems like I was right.

If the OP has blown the mobo HDMI circuit, it's a new board - no-one does component level repairs. Sending the pc for repair without an HDD would involve the engineer installing a drive and installing windows - they charge by the hour. A couple of hours work soon runs into $100's.

A discrete gfx card would probably work, but I'd just buy an identical mobo - if available.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
self build
OS
W10 Pro x64, W7 Pro x64 in VMware
CPU
i7 2600K @ 4.4GHz
Motherboard
MSI Z68A-GD80
Memory
8GB Mushkin @ 1600MHz
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia GTX 750 Ti
Monitor(s) Displays
27" Benq + 27" LG
Screen Resolution
1080p
Hard Drives
500GB 850 Evo SSD + 3 * 2TB Seagate
PSU
EVGA 650 GS modular
Case
Antec 300
Cooling
Seidon 120V v2
Internet Speed
62/18 Mbps
Antivirus
Defender (W10) + MSE (W7)
Browser
Firefox
no clue what computer you`re talking about, you don`t say.

But, if it`s the one in your specs, then just buy a new video card, get rid of that amd card and get something by EVGA.

Not that easy with integrated graphics.

Last time I bought an HDMI cable, there was a note in the package warning about hotplugging causing damage. Folk on this forum and elsewhere said 'rubbish - I do this all the time'. Seems like I was right.

If the OP has blown the mobo HDMI circuit, it's a new board - no-one does component level repairs. Sending the pc for repair without an HDD would involve the engineer installing a drive and installing windows - they charge by the hour. A couple of hours work soon runs into $100's.

A discrete gfx card would probably work, but I'd just buy an identical mobo - if available.


Indeed you were right, I had no idea this could happen :rolleyes::cry: - costly mistake.
So moving everything to external hd is the best option and doing a complete wipe to keep files safe?.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
AuthenticAMD
OS
Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64-bit
CPU
AMD Ryzen 5 1600 Six-Core Processor
Motherboard
PRIME B350-PLUS
Memory
16.00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
Radeon (TM) RX 480 Graphics
Most people troubleshoot pc stuff by substitution - your HDMI cable on a different computer, a known good monitor + cable on your system etc. If you've exhausted all combinations and narrowed it down to the mobo, then a straight mobo swap (identical board) is prob the way. As has been mentioned, your HDD would just plug into the new board with no need for reinstall or formatting. A replacement board has a different serial which may screw up your Windows activation, but MS usually allow a repair with the same board (may need a phone call). If the OS was a retail license, this doesn't apply.

If you are not happy doing hardware stuff, I guess a repair shop is the way. A mobo swap involves removing and reinstalling cpu and RAM (with appropriate static practices), not to mention difficult to reach mounting screws - I have a special grab tool for those pesky blighters.

As for your personal files, just backing them up and deleting the originals from the HDD would prob be enough to keep your info away from prying eyes at the repair shop.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
self build
OS
W10 Pro x64, W7 Pro x64 in VMware
CPU
i7 2600K @ 4.4GHz
Motherboard
MSI Z68A-GD80
Memory
8GB Mushkin @ 1600MHz
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia GTX 750 Ti
Monitor(s) Displays
27" Benq + 27" LG
Screen Resolution
1080p
Hard Drives
500GB 850 Evo SSD + 3 * 2TB Seagate
PSU
EVGA 650 GS modular
Case
Antec 300
Cooling
Seidon 120V v2
Internet Speed
62/18 Mbps
Antivirus
Defender (W10) + MSE (W7)
Browser
Firefox
Most people troubleshoot pc stuff by substitution - your HDMI cable on a different computer, a known good monitor + cable on your system etc. If you've exhausted all combinations and narrowed it down to the mobo, then a straight mobo swap (identical board) is prob the way. As has been mentioned, your HDD would just plug into the new board with no need for reinstall or formatting. A replacement board has a different serial which may screw up your Windows activation, but MS usually allow a repair with the same board (may need a phone call). If the OS was a retail license, this doesn't apply.

If you are not happy doing hardware stuff, I guess a repair shop is the way. A mobo swap involves removing and reinstalling cpu and RAM (with appropriate static practices), not to mention difficult to reach mounting screws - I have a special grab tool for those pesky blighters.

As for your personal files, just backing them up and deleting the originals from the HDD would prob be enough to keep your info away from prying eyes at the repair shop.

Well I've checked the motherboard I need - MSI MS-7721 - Version 2.0

I've located this on eBay - says version 2.3 though

MSI FM2 A55M E33 MS 7721 VER 2 3 Microatx Hdmi Socket FM2 Motherboard | eBay

Checked the back of mine, looks the exact same so I'm assuming it is minus the 2.3?.

Also I've decided to do the encrpytion of files.

One last thing rather than repair shop and replace mobo wouldnt this work;

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Adapter-2560x1440/dp/B004MS0DIK
 
Last edited:

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
AuthenticAMD
OS
Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64-bit
CPU
AMD Ryzen 5 1600 Six-Core Processor
Motherboard
PRIME B350-PLUS
Memory
16.00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
Radeon (TM) RX 480 Graphics
I have no experience of those USB gizmos.

If I've been looking at the correct Asrock board, you have VGA, DVI-D and HDMI. Have you tried a DVI to HDMI cable. The DVI won't carry sound like HDMI, but your TV may have an audio i/p (or use speakers). Since both are digital, it's possible that the DVI-D is also screwed. A separate video card has also been mentioned.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
self build
OS
W10 Pro x64, W7 Pro x64 in VMware
CPU
i7 2600K @ 4.4GHz
Motherboard
MSI Z68A-GD80
Memory
8GB Mushkin @ 1600MHz
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia GTX 750 Ti
Monitor(s) Displays
27" Benq + 27" LG
Screen Resolution
1080p
Hard Drives
500GB 850 Evo SSD + 3 * 2TB Seagate
PSU
EVGA 650 GS modular
Case
Antec 300
Cooling
Seidon 120V v2
Internet Speed
62/18 Mbps
Antivirus
Defender (W10) + MSE (W7)
Browser
Firefox
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