Solved PC Shuts Down Unexpectedly During Start-Up

I don't think is RAM. A faulty RAM freezes the computer, doesn't shut it down. My opinion is a faulty MB, CPU or PS.
 

My Computers My Computers

System One System Two

  • Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
    custom build
    OS
    Windows 7 HP 64
    CPU
    i5 6600K - 800MHz to 4200MHz
    Motherboard
    GA-Z170-HD3P
    Memory
    4+4G GSkill DDR4 3000
    Graphics Card(s)
    IG - Intel 530
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung 226BW
    Screen Resolution
    1680x1050
    Hard Drives
    (1) -1 SM951 – 128GB M.2 AHCI PCIe SSD drive for Windows 7 and Lubuntu
    (2) -1 WD SATA 3 - 1T for Data
    (3) -1 WD SATA 3 - 1T for backup
    PSU
    Thermaltake 450W TR2 gold
    Keyboard
    Old and good Chicony mechanical keyboard
    Mouse
    Logitech mX performance - 9 buttons (had to disable some)
    Internet Speed
    500Mb/s
    Browser
    Firefox 64
    Other Info
    TinyWall firewall
  • Computer type
    Laptop
    System Manufacturer/Model Number
    Asus Q550LF
    OS
    Windows 7 Pro
    CPU
    i7-4500U 800MHz to 3.0GHz
    Motherboard
    Asus Q550LF
    Memory
    (4+4)G DDR3 1600
    Graphics Card(s)
    IG intel 4400 + NVIDIA GeForce GT 745M
    Sound Card
    Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    LG Display LP156WF4-SPH1
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    BX500 120G SSD for Windows and programs +
    1T HDD for data
    Internet Speed
    500 Mb/s
    Browser
    Firefox
    Other Info
    TinyWall firewall
I don't think is RAM. A faulty RAM freezes the computer, doesn't shut it down. My opinion is a faulty MB, CPU or PS.

I think so too, but just to clear my mind completely about it, i bought a new one, but 2GB only. As expected, its the same.

Do you think that PSU is the culprit even with the result of my initial testing?
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Nothing Special
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit SP1
CPU
INTEL Core i7-3770 @ 3.4GHz (8 CPUs)
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z77-M
Memory
KINGSTON DDR3 8192MB (2x 2048MB, 1x 4096MB)
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GTX1060 Gaming X 6G
Sound Card
REALTEK High Definition Audio v6.00.0001.6657
Monitor(s) Displays
SAMSUNG UA23F4003 23" LED LCD Monitor
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
SEAGATE Barracuda ST3250310AS
PSU
CORSAIR VS650 650w
Case
Silverstone ATX Tower Red
Cooling
Air-Cooled
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Mozilla Firefox, Chrome
PSU works or it doesn't. Same thing to MB.

By exclusion, my opinion is CPU.

At what level did you overclock, and what did you overclock?

I also seen that you have (2+2+4)G on memory. It's never a good idea mixing memory types.
 

My Computers My Computers

System One System Two

  • Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
    custom build
    OS
    Windows 7 HP 64
    CPU
    i5 6600K - 800MHz to 4200MHz
    Motherboard
    GA-Z170-HD3P
    Memory
    4+4G GSkill DDR4 3000
    Graphics Card(s)
    IG - Intel 530
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung 226BW
    Screen Resolution
    1680x1050
    Hard Drives
    (1) -1 SM951 – 128GB M.2 AHCI PCIe SSD drive for Windows 7 and Lubuntu
    (2) -1 WD SATA 3 - 1T for Data
    (3) -1 WD SATA 3 - 1T for backup
    PSU
    Thermaltake 450W TR2 gold
    Keyboard
    Old and good Chicony mechanical keyboard
    Mouse
    Logitech mX performance - 9 buttons (had to disable some)
    Internet Speed
    500Mb/s
    Browser
    Firefox 64
    Other Info
    TinyWall firewall
  • Computer type
    Laptop
    System Manufacturer/Model Number
    Asus Q550LF
    OS
    Windows 7 Pro
    CPU
    i7-4500U 800MHz to 3.0GHz
    Motherboard
    Asus Q550LF
    Memory
    (4+4)G DDR3 1600
    Graphics Card(s)
    IG intel 4400 + NVIDIA GeForce GT 745M
    Sound Card
    Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    LG Display LP156WF4-SPH1
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    BX500 120G SSD for Windows and programs +
    1T HDD for data
    Internet Speed
    500 Mb/s
    Browser
    Firefox
    Other Info
    TinyWall firewall
I just thought of this speaker thing not to suspect it as a culprit but to know that it is functioning so that I can use the Beep Codes you linked to me. I cant use it if I cant hear any beep, right?

Yes, this does the logic. I for some reason had only one way of understanding it - probably due to fatigue.

I just finished my thorough inspection of the MoBo and I can say that, by physical appearance, there is no problem with it. No problems in capacitors, resistors, transistors, ICs, and the other parts. There is also no visible scratches on the PCB itself that may indicate open connections.

With regards to BIOS, I dont think I have a problem before because I am using the PC the day before the problem and it is OK. But I cant know now because of my trials and also I removed the CMOS battery and reset so I dont know for sure.

I think if you find nothing wrong with MoBo, then it should be in working condition. What I thought about BIOS is if you by some chance decided to update it manually and then these sorts of troubles began to happen. However, the way your system shuts down does not match BIOS being in trouble. Timing for shut downs is from 5 to 30 seconds, and if it happens with such difference, it simply tells me it is not BIOS.

Have you done any inspection of PSU internal parts conditions? As I remember it will have some capacitors, few of which are quite large ones.


Thank you for your time, Acova! Have a nice sleep there.
Thanks. I've had a long one, as I skipped one night.


I tried the system again, and again I decided to test with replacing RAM but now, I will time it until it shuts down. Using my existing 4GB and 2GB, one at a time, installed in the same socket (as per the configuration bu Asus for single RAM), I noticed that every PSU off then on then run, there is a varying time it took before every shut down, ranging from 5 seconds up to 30 seconds. I did it without doing anything except turning OFF the PSU, then wait until the green LED at MoBo dims then turn ON again the PSU then run the unit. I did it multiple times, and for both RAM (4GB and 2GB), both have varying times.

What do you think of the result? Is that a way to say that RAM maybe at fault here?

I haven't had any case when it would be RAM guilty before, but for this reason I looked on symptoms of bad RAM: 5 Symptoms of a RAM Problem and How to Fix It | TurboFuture

So per description of each symptom laid out there, it doesn't seem to match your case. This you would rather like to recall, how the system was behaving before this problem.

If you believe that swapping RAM cards makes a difference to the timing it would shut down in, could be related to the internal system check it carries out each time. Eh, this would point on CPU at some point.


I noticed that every PSU off then on then run, there is a varying time it took before every shut down, ranging from 5 seconds up to 30 seconds.

Can you clarify about "every PSU off": under PSU I understand the component locked in a box like case, which is connected to the local electricity nest/jack (?) for power supply. It also has a switch for the whole system to stay either cut from local's energy resource or connected. If I got it right, you should have only one such. I am confused to hear "every PSU".

In either case, if you have an opportunity to inspect it too, maybe you could give it a look to be sure it visually looks healthy too.

If Mobo and PSU are in good condition, nothing out of ordinary, maybe they aren't the culprits.

tephen04 said:
3. Clean all parts, up to the disassembling the CPU, then reassemble. Still shuts down. (I dont know if CPU itself is OK, i have no way to check it..)

You went for the CPU check up right away there. Given your are from a warm country (correct me if I am wrong). Keeping up with components' temperatures would matter, same as keeping them clean and dust-free. If you were doing something pressuring CPU/GPU, but forgot to keep them dust-free, maybe it's the case here. The workload you had circulating back then, had made a final push on component which put your whole system out of work.



I think so too, but just to clear my mind completely about it, i bought a new one, but 2GB only. As expected, its the same.

Do you think that PSU is the culprit even with the result of my initial testing?

Why were you in a hurry to buy RAM for a test? I hope it didn't cost you much, now that it's been done.
If you believe PSU is working alright from the way of your testing of it and visual check, then it is likely to be in a fine condition.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Windows 8.1 x64
PSU works or it doesn't. Same thing to MB.
...

If the component experienced a slight change in its construction design part somewhere, it doesn't necessarily implicate its ending, but at least a negative amplification to its effectiveness. Or is this incorrect way of assuming how it would behave?

I just have the experience how it went with at least 2 GPUs long ago. There was deterioration showing up as these were used further.

Can't the same be assumed for MoBo/PSU?


I am not asking this only to support MoBo/PSU being still guilty. Given that tephen04 did an experiment with PSU and checked MoBo visually, rather tells me these are unlikely to be the culprits to shut downs now.

Also this part when RAM was swapped and different timing came out - is a useful observation to point on CPU.
If I understand it right, CPU is then processes RAM for a simple check there, where CPU reaches certain limit of work it can done in its condition that it gets forced on a shut down upon limit reach. Since RAM are different on capacities and slots installed, one takes more attention from CPU than the other does and in a different order, though this could be as well an insignificant change/factor for shutdown timing.

Anyways, if this thinking of the situation is valid then, then it helps. Also, the last activity on machine before the very first unexpected shutdown happened would be useful to know about too. If it was in the middle of some high resource demanding app running, then there it is where it began to "burn" / deteriorate.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Windows 8.1 x64
PSU works or it doesn't. Same thing to MB.

By exclusion, my opinion is CPU.

At what level did you overclock, and what did you overclock?

I also seen that you have (2+2+4)G on memory. It's never a good idea mixing memory types.

I dont have any OC on my system, I think I didnt said that I have anything about OC..

Also, I think there is no problem mixing two 2GB and one 4GB, even if they have different frequencies, as long as MoBo is compatible with their speed. MoBo will just choose the lowest so it is OK but not economical. BTW, my RAM are all 1333MHz.
 
Last edited:

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Nothing Special
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit SP1
CPU
INTEL Core i7-3770 @ 3.4GHz (8 CPUs)
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z77-M
Memory
KINGSTON DDR3 8192MB (2x 2048MB, 1x 4096MB)
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GTX1060 Gaming X 6G
Sound Card
REALTEK High Definition Audio v6.00.0001.6657
Monitor(s) Displays
SAMSUNG UA23F4003 23" LED LCD Monitor
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
SEAGATE Barracuda ST3250310AS
PSU
CORSAIR VS650 650w
Case
Silverstone ATX Tower Red
Cooling
Air-Cooled
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Mozilla Firefox, Chrome
Acova

Firstly, I would like to say sorry because this replies will not include any quotes because it is hard for me to quote every line using my phone. But I will answer to your questions based on the order you told them. Thank you!

Regarding BIOS, I dont think I have anything done to it because the last time I updated BIOS was about a year ago. And with this, I dont think the effect updating it will last until now. I am very well aware that updating BIOS is not as "simple" and "safe" as updating drivers. I read it somewhere before.

I havent done anything like disassembling the PSU because the result of my checking does not point to it. Unless there is a good reason, I can and I will do it. Remember the "risky" thing I do before? Thats the reason why I left my PSU intact for now.

I do think now that it is better if the PC acts abnormally before this problem occurred, at least I have some history to start on. But unfortunately, it doesnt. Internal System Check seems logical and that process comes from the CPU, and if without replacing anything and every turning ON has different shut down times, then it really is pointing out that CPU is acting abnormally. For this, I had talked to a repairman and tomorrow, I will visit him. We can tell it now for sure.

Sorry for the confusion. What I mean by "every PSU off then on then run" is everytime I turn OFF the PSU (switching the switch in the unit) then turning ON it again (the switch again) and then run (the switch from the CPU case to power up the MoBo). What I want to emphasize in the phrase "PSU off then on then run" is a single "action". I meant "every act" or "everytime I do that act". Again, sorry for the confusion.

I just looked the PSU internal parts from the fan side of the unit. For now anyway. After I went to the repairman I said earlier, if he didnt find any problem with my MoBo (and CPU because I will bring it with the MoBo) then PSU is the culprit.

Yes, my location (Philippines) is a warm country, but now is December so it is cold here now. But youre correct, temperature does matter especially on CPU. I had a situation before (a long time ago) that made my CPU super hot (I tried using Adobe AfterEffects and PowerDirector) and thats the time I knew about CPU going hot and then stopping my PC. But that incident has a displayed error and it only happened one time. I replaced the stock CPU cooler with DeepCool Ice Edge (the one with copper tubes and a large heatsink). No more CPU getting hot happened again (highest reading was 63deg even using those softwares I used before) . In short, I dont think I did something to make it super hot, although last time I use CPU-Z (the software to check CPU status) is about a year or less ago.

Regarding buying a new RAM, I just want to exclude it from the culprits so that possible culprits will be reduced by 1. But dont worry, the RAM is cheap (about $16) and also I can use it since I only have 3 RAMs and my MoBo slots are 4. Its a win-win decision for me. Thanks for the concern BTW.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Nothing Special
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit SP1
CPU
INTEL Core i7-3770 @ 3.4GHz (8 CPUs)
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z77-M
Memory
KINGSTON DDR3 8192MB (2x 2048MB, 1x 4096MB)
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GTX1060 Gaming X 6G
Sound Card
REALTEK High Definition Audio v6.00.0001.6657
Monitor(s) Displays
SAMSUNG UA23F4003 23" LED LCD Monitor
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
SEAGATE Barracuda ST3250310AS
PSU
CORSAIR VS650 650w
Case
Silverstone ATX Tower Red
Cooling
Air-Cooled
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Mozilla Firefox, Chrome
I dont have any OC on my system, I think I didnt said that I have anything about OC..
Also, there is no problem mixing two 2GB and one 4GB, even if they have different frequencies, as long as MoBo is compatible with their speed. MoBo will just choose the lowest so it is OK but not economical. BTW, my RAM are all 1333MHz.

As you have an unlocked MB with a Z77 chipset, I just asked if you did an OC.

For the memories, I don't think your problem is related to memories, but when you mixed sizes, you lost the dual channel feature. And speed isn't the only parameter. There is also CAS latency etc.
 

My Computers My Computers

System One System Two

  • Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
    custom build
    OS
    Windows 7 HP 64
    CPU
    i5 6600K - 800MHz to 4200MHz
    Motherboard
    GA-Z170-HD3P
    Memory
    4+4G GSkill DDR4 3000
    Graphics Card(s)
    IG - Intel 530
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung 226BW
    Screen Resolution
    1680x1050
    Hard Drives
    (1) -1 SM951 – 128GB M.2 AHCI PCIe SSD drive for Windows 7 and Lubuntu
    (2) -1 WD SATA 3 - 1T for Data
    (3) -1 WD SATA 3 - 1T for backup
    PSU
    Thermaltake 450W TR2 gold
    Keyboard
    Old and good Chicony mechanical keyboard
    Mouse
    Logitech mX performance - 9 buttons (had to disable some)
    Internet Speed
    500Mb/s
    Browser
    Firefox 64
    Other Info
    TinyWall firewall
  • Computer type
    Laptop
    System Manufacturer/Model Number
    Asus Q550LF
    OS
    Windows 7 Pro
    CPU
    i7-4500U 800MHz to 3.0GHz
    Motherboard
    Asus Q550LF
    Memory
    (4+4)G DDR3 1600
    Graphics Card(s)
    IG intel 4400 + NVIDIA GeForce GT 745M
    Sound Card
    Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    LG Display LP156WF4-SPH1
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    BX500 120G SSD for Windows and programs +
    1T HDD for data
    Internet Speed
    500 Mb/s
    Browser
    Firefox
    Other Info
    TinyWall firewall
By theory mixing ram will work.
BUT many times it doesn't.

In my opinion it's always best to get matched ram.

Jack
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home made Desktop
OS
Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pro/64
CPU
Intel i7-6800K @ 4.3
Motherboard
ASUS X-99 Deluxe II
Memory
Corsair Platinum 16 gig @2400
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 OC
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus 27" LED LCD/VE278Q
Screen Resolution
1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI
Hard Drives
INTEL SSD 730-240 Gb Sata 3.0/
PSU
EVGA Platium 1200W
Case
Phanteks Luxe Tempered Glass 8 fans/ one radiator
Cooling
XSPC/ Water Cooled CPU
Keyboard
Das 4 Professional
Mouse
Logitech M705/MX Anywhere 2-S
Internet Speed
100 mbits
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/ Malwarebytes Premium 3.0/ SAS
Browser
I.E. 11 default/Firefox/ ISP Time Warner Cable/Spectrum
Other Info
LG BluRay Burner/
Sound system-KLipsch-THX/
Icy Dock ssd Hot Swap bays.
By theory mixing ram will work.
BUT many times it doesn't.

In my opinion it's always best to get matched ram.

Jack

Hello Jack!

What do you mean by "matched RAM"? By capacity or by frequency?
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Nothing Special
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit SP1
CPU
INTEL Core i7-3770 @ 3.4GHz (8 CPUs)
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z77-M
Memory
KINGSTON DDR3 8192MB (2x 2048MB, 1x 4096MB)
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GTX1060 Gaming X 6G
Sound Card
REALTEK High Definition Audio v6.00.0001.6657
Monitor(s) Displays
SAMSUNG UA23F4003 23" LED LCD Monitor
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
SEAGATE Barracuda ST3250310AS
PSU
CORSAIR VS650 650w
Case
Silverstone ATX Tower Red
Cooling
Air-Cooled
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Mozilla Firefox, Chrome
By brand name, speed, volts.
Identical in all ways.

Buying ram in a matched package.
Matched packages have had all the ram modules tested together to make sure they work well together.

Jack
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home made Desktop
OS
Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pro/64
CPU
Intel i7-6800K @ 4.3
Motherboard
ASUS X-99 Deluxe II
Memory
Corsair Platinum 16 gig @2400
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 OC
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus 27" LED LCD/VE278Q
Screen Resolution
1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI
Hard Drives
INTEL SSD 730-240 Gb Sata 3.0/
PSU
EVGA Platium 1200W
Case
Phanteks Luxe Tempered Glass 8 fans/ one radiator
Cooling
XSPC/ Water Cooled CPU
Keyboard
Das 4 Professional
Mouse
Logitech M705/MX Anywhere 2-S
Internet Speed
100 mbits
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/ Malwarebytes Premium 3.0/ SAS
Browser
I.E. 11 default/Firefox/ ISP Time Warner Cable/Spectrum
Other Info
LG BluRay Burner/
Sound system-KLipsch-THX/
Icy Dock ssd Hot Swap bays.
As you have an unlocked MB with a Z77 chipset, I just asked if you did an OC.

For the memories, I don't think your problem is related to memories, but when you mixed sizes, you lost the dual channel feature. And speed isn't the only parameter. There is also CAS latency etc.


Im sorry but I dont know about "unlocked" MoBo so I didnt understood your point before. Well, I still have rooms to improved. :D

Alright, I think I dont know about it. Thank you for pointing that out. It just that I dont encounter any problem with this setup because I used those RAMs for the time I built this PC until now and not one instance that I had a problem with it, nor any replacement happened. I only can afford those RAMs at that time.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Nothing Special
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit SP1
CPU
INTEL Core i7-3770 @ 3.4GHz (8 CPUs)
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z77-M
Memory
KINGSTON DDR3 8192MB (2x 2048MB, 1x 4096MB)
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GTX1060 Gaming X 6G
Sound Card
REALTEK High Definition Audio v6.00.0001.6657
Monitor(s) Displays
SAMSUNG UA23F4003 23" LED LCD Monitor
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
SEAGATE Barracuda ST3250310AS
PSU
CORSAIR VS650 650w
Case
Silverstone ATX Tower Red
Cooling
Air-Cooled
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Mozilla Firefox, Chrome
By brand name, speed, volts.
Identical in all ways.

Buying ram in a matched package.
Matched packages have had all the ram modules tested together to make sure they work well together.

Jack

Thank you for bringing that up. I really appreciate your advice. When I have the money, I will replace some of it and making them all identical.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Nothing Special
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit SP1
CPU
INTEL Core i7-3770 @ 3.4GHz (8 CPUs)
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z77-M
Memory
KINGSTON DDR3 8192MB (2x 2048MB, 1x 4096MB)
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GTX1060 Gaming X 6G
Sound Card
REALTEK High Definition Audio v6.00.0001.6657
Monitor(s) Displays
SAMSUNG UA23F4003 23" LED LCD Monitor
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
SEAGATE Barracuda ST3250310AS
PSU
CORSAIR VS650 650w
Case
Silverstone ATX Tower Red
Cooling
Air-Cooled
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Mozilla Firefox, Chrome
Your very welcome.
I have tried all kinds of ram in all kinds of ways.
After many hours of head aches, I learned to get matched ram.
Even doing ram test with mismatched ram will indicate good. But the ram test programs don't test if each stick of ram works well with each other.

Jack
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home made Desktop
OS
Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pro/64
CPU
Intel i7-6800K @ 4.3
Motherboard
ASUS X-99 Deluxe II
Memory
Corsair Platinum 16 gig @2400
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 OC
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus 27" LED LCD/VE278Q
Screen Resolution
1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI
Hard Drives
INTEL SSD 730-240 Gb Sata 3.0/
PSU
EVGA Platium 1200W
Case
Phanteks Luxe Tempered Glass 8 fans/ one radiator
Cooling
XSPC/ Water Cooled CPU
Keyboard
Das 4 Professional
Mouse
Logitech M705/MX Anywhere 2-S
Internet Speed
100 mbits
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/ Malwarebytes Premium 3.0/ SAS
Browser
I.E. 11 default/Firefox/ ISP Time Warner Cable/Spectrum
Other Info
LG BluRay Burner/
Sound system-KLipsch-THX/
Icy Dock ssd Hot Swap bays.
:eek: I am kinda joining this thread late, so I hope this contributing post is useful for making some reflection. :)

Hello everyone!

I need your help with my PC. It just shuts down itself after between 2-30 seconds everytime I turn it on. There is no BSOD or any beep.
Please instruct me on what to do next in order to fix my problem..

Thank you very much, guys!

Can you verify that the CPU Fan cuts out?

I cannot check the temperature of CPU since it is so sudden (2 seconds).. To check temp, i may need a thermogun which i dont have here. I also didnt install my monitor, it doesnt display anytime at that time. Cant even check the BIOS UEFI. CMOS reset is no good to me though.

EDIT: is it possible to overheat the CPU in just 2 seconds? I touched the exposed copper of my CPU cooler (Deepcool Ice Edge) but i didnt feel any heat from it. I replaced the thermal paste, BTW, after cleaning the whole unit.

Can tephen start computer with case side pannel off? Can you also utilize a household fan to blow cold air across motherboard

This is the exact problem that I encountered with my system yesterday. CMOS reset did the trick up until I installed all the parts inside the case, it happened again.

I believe it has something to do with the temperature. Have you checked your processor temp? It's probably running over the warning temp the BIOS is set in.

Can tephen underclock CPU temporarily?

Best luck, iko22
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Windows 7 x64, Vista x64, 8.1 smartphone
CPU
Intel E8400 65W 64-bit
Motherboard
Gigabyte EP45-UD3LR
Memory
DDR2 2 x 2GB, 1GB x 2
Graphics Card(s)
XFX Radeon HD5750
Sound Card
AMD High Definition Audio; Realtek High Definition Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
iiyama prolite X2377HDS
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
500GB 7200 rpm Seagate ST3500413AS 16MB, 500GB 5400 rpm Toshiba MQ02ABF050H 32MB, 200GB 7200 rpm Seagate ST3200820AS 8MB, 2TB 7200 rpm Western Digital WD20EZRX 64MB
PSU
Enermax Liberty Modular
Case
Antec P193 Midi Tower
Keyboard
Mionix ZIBAL 60
Mouse
Razer USB 2.0 Diamondback Mouse or Huion Graphics Tablet
Browser
Internet Explorer, Lunascape, Firefox, Opera, Avast Safezone
Hello, iko22 and thank you for helping me! ;)

To answer your questions:

1. The CPU fan is well functioning, and as I said, I cannot feel any heat from the copper tubes of my CPU cooler for it to say that temperature is a problem.

2. Yes, I am testing the PC with the side cover open, but if you are asking if it is running when side cover is open, then it is not. I did a breadboarding and it also failed.

3. I dont know about over/underclocking because i didnt tried it before but as far as I know, over/underclocking can only be done when I can run the PC normally which is not the case right now so I think it is impossible to do right now.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Nothing Special
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit SP1
CPU
INTEL Core i7-3770 @ 3.4GHz (8 CPUs)
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z77-M
Memory
KINGSTON DDR3 8192MB (2x 2048MB, 1x 4096MB)
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GTX1060 Gaming X 6G
Sound Card
REALTEK High Definition Audio v6.00.0001.6657
Monitor(s) Displays
SAMSUNG UA23F4003 23" LED LCD Monitor
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
SEAGATE Barracuda ST3250310AS
PSU
CORSAIR VS650 650w
Case
Silverstone ATX Tower Red
Cooling
Air-Cooled
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Mozilla Firefox, Chrome
My problem is the motherboard. Gonna replace the unit. CPU and PSU are tested OK. I hope the discussions done here will help others who will encounter a problem just like this.

Thanks to Acova Layback Bear Megahertz07 RoasterMen iko22 for sharing your knowledge and helping me. Hope you will help others just like you did to me.

MARKED AS SOLVED.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Nothing Special
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit SP1
CPU
INTEL Core i7-3770 @ 3.4GHz (8 CPUs)
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z77-M
Memory
KINGSTON DDR3 8192MB (2x 2048MB, 1x 4096MB)
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GTX1060 Gaming X 6G
Sound Card
REALTEK High Definition Audio v6.00.0001.6657
Monitor(s) Displays
SAMSUNG UA23F4003 23" LED LCD Monitor
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
SEAGATE Barracuda ST3250310AS
PSU
CORSAIR VS650 650w
Case
Silverstone ATX Tower Red
Cooling
Air-Cooled
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Mozilla Firefox, Chrome
AcovaFirstly, I would like to say sorry because this replies will not include any quotes because it is hard for me to quote every line using my phone. But I will answer to your questions based on the order you told them. Thank you!

It's totally fine (about quotes), besides, they're optional.

I havent done anything like disassembling the PSU because the result of my checking does not point to it. Unless there is a good reason, I can and I will do it. Remember the "risky" thing I do before? Thats the reason why I left my PSU intact for now.

By the way, if PSU left untouched for a long time, I think it can get pretty dusty in there as well. To be safe, take a second look for dust, and see if it is necessary to clean it.

You are not using PC yet anyways, it could be a good timing for cleaning. Not to mention performing visual checks on GPU as well. On other hand, I think, you're probably onto it already.

My problem is the motherboard. Gonna replace the unit. CPU and PSU are tested OK.

Have you been able to find out what part/member of MoBo went out of order?
If visually it wasn't visible, maybe some circuit burned or something else, but surely it would be nice to learn what part started to fail, though if you are done with researches of this kind ;D - it's understandable too.

In either case, it's good to know that the problem was found and you've finally made a step towards fixing PC.

(Beforehand) Congratulations to you whenever you reassemble PC and it works alright after "Power-On" event.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Windows 8.1 x64
Back
Top