Possible solution for DPC latency pops & crackles

Snookie

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Well I am well and truly jiggered today and over the moon to boot! Have long been bothered by DPC latency pops and crackles during the playback of music on iTunes or Windows Media Player making it impossible to listen to. Thought it was a problem with my PC sound somewhere ... somehow ....

Following a series of power cuts, have protected ALL equipment connected to my PC with power surge devices to my utter joy music now plays without stuttering, pops, crackles etc ... pure magic!! ............ :thumbsup:
 

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Windows 7 Home Premium 32bit
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Intel Core 2 Quad 2.33Ghz x4 1333FSB (Q8200)
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3GB
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PCI Express 1GB NVidia 9600X
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Sound Blaster X-Fi Xtreme Audio
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LG Flatron L1942P
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1280 x 1024
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500GB S-ATA
Maxtor 200GB External
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Power protection before the PC should not have any affect on a problem such as latency. The "power cuts" (I assume "power failures") apparently caused some type of hardware recovery which is probably (guess) the reason.

Almost everyone that I know of on recording forums (for recording studios) uses UPS systems for their critical equipment including the PC and there are still latency issues.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
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My Own Build
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Windows 10 64 bit
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Intel i7 6700K
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ASUS ROG Maximus VIII Hero
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16GB Corsair Dominator
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Intel CPU Graphics
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RealTek
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27" Dell S2719dgf
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2560X1440
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1 TB Samsung 850 EVO SSD for Win 10 Pro
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2 TB drive for backup
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EVGA Supernova 750G2
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BeQuiet Silent Base 600
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Deepcool Captain 120EX
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Microsoft Wireless 2000
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Microsoft wireless
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Cakewalk (Sonar) by BandLab and Studio One 4.1 Pro recording studio software. MOTU 896Mk3 Hybrid recording interface, Frontier Tranzport wireless control unit, Behringer X-Touch Control Surface.
Five USB connected optical drives for CD Audio production using Nero BurningROM
Fortunately my PC was not switched on or plugged through to the mains when the power cuts happened, so any form of hardware recovery due to the power loss is not the answer here.

I am no expert and cannot explain it. All that I can say is that since I added a surge protection to where all the power leads for devices connected to my PC connect I am able to play music without annoying pops, crackles and fizzes :)
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 32bit
CPU
Intel Core 2 Quad 2.33Ghz x4 1333FSB (Q8200)
Memory
3GB
Graphics Card(s)
PCI Express 1GB NVidia 9600X
Sound Card
Sound Blaster X-Fi Xtreme Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
LG Flatron L1942P
Screen Resolution
1280 x 1024
Hard Drives
500GB S-ATA
Maxtor 200GB External
Western Digital 500GB My Book External
Keyboard
Saitek Eclipse
Mouse
Microsoft Optical Wheel Mouse
Internet Speed
Could be better
DPC latency problems are usually created by foul drivers. If the problem reoccurs, you can check it with this program - it will give you hints about the culprit. DPC Latency Checker
 

My Computer

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HP, Dell, Gateway, Toshiba - 4 laptops and 2 desktops
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Vista, Windows7, Mint Mate, Zorin, Windows 8
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from 1.6GHz Duo to i7
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2x HP w2207
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5x HDD, 7x SSD, 12x Externals
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with trackball - no mices
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Trackball mice
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DSL 6000
Not really relevant but I thought I'd just say that I get pops and crackles from my speaker system when someone turns on the kitchen light or someone uses certain power tools in the shed, it's really annoying.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self built
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
Intel Pentium Dual Core E5200 2.5GHz (3.77GHz OC)
Motherboard
Asus P5Q-E
Memory
Corsair 4GB DDR2 (4x1GB CM2X1024-6400C4)
Graphics Card(s)
Palit GeForce GTS 250 (1024MB)
Sound Card
On Board (ADI AD2000B 8ch HD)
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung 32in LCD TV
Screen Resolution
1360x768
Hard Drives
2 x 1TB Samsung 103SJ (Raid0)
2 x External 500GB Samsung 502IJ (NexStar 3 HD Enclosures)
PSU
550W Antec Neo HE 550
Case
Antec P180
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Xigmatex Red Scorpion CPU Cooler. 3x120mm Fans
Keyboard
Logitech MX5000 Laser (Combo)
Mouse
Logitech MX5000 Laser (Combo)
Internet Speed
ADSL2+ (avg 10 Mbps Down, 0.80 Mbps up)
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Gigabyte GN-WP01GS 54g Wireless Lan Card
Not really relevant but I thought I'd just say that I get pops and crackles from my speaker system when someone turns on the kitchen light or someone uses certain power tools in the shed, it's really annoying.
That is a problem with cheap equipment that is not shielded. Top shelf tools would not do that.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HP, Dell, Gateway, Toshiba - 4 laptops and 2 desktops
OS
Vista, Windows7, Mint Mate, Zorin, Windows 8
CPU
from 1.6GHz Duo to i7
Monitor(s) Displays
2x HP w2207
Hard Drives
5x HDD, 7x SSD, 12x Externals
Keyboard
with trackball - no mices
Mouse
Trackball mice
Internet Speed
DSL 6000
DPC latency problems are usually created by foul drivers. If the problem reoccurs, you can check it with this program - it will give you hints about the culprit. DPC Latency Checker

Thanks very much I'll make a note of that
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 32bit
CPU
Intel Core 2 Quad 2.33Ghz x4 1333FSB (Q8200)
Memory
3GB
Graphics Card(s)
PCI Express 1GB NVidia 9600X
Sound Card
Sound Blaster X-Fi Xtreme Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
LG Flatron L1942P
Screen Resolution
1280 x 1024
Hard Drives
500GB S-ATA
Maxtor 200GB External
Western Digital 500GB My Book External
Keyboard
Saitek Eclipse
Mouse
Microsoft Optical Wheel Mouse
Internet Speed
Could be better
Not really relevant but I thought I'd just say that I get pops and crackles from my speaker system when someone turns on the kitchen light or someone uses certain power tools in the shed, it's really annoying.
That is a problem with cheap equipment that is not shielded. Top shelf tools would not do that.
I think it's got more to do with the 50+ year old wiring since it also happens when someone turns on the kitchen light or the ceiling fan in the lounge room and other things cause it. But they are cheap tools too.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self built
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
Intel Pentium Dual Core E5200 2.5GHz (3.77GHz OC)
Motherboard
Asus P5Q-E
Memory
Corsair 4GB DDR2 (4x1GB CM2X1024-6400C4)
Graphics Card(s)
Palit GeForce GTS 250 (1024MB)
Sound Card
On Board (ADI AD2000B 8ch HD)
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung 32in LCD TV
Screen Resolution
1360x768
Hard Drives
2 x 1TB Samsung 103SJ (Raid0)
2 x External 500GB Samsung 502IJ (NexStar 3 HD Enclosures)
PSU
550W Antec Neo HE 550
Case
Antec P180
Cooling
Xigmatex Red Scorpion CPU Cooler. 3x120mm Fans
Keyboard
Logitech MX5000 Laser (Combo)
Mouse
Logitech MX5000 Laser (Combo)
Internet Speed
ADSL2+ (avg 10 Mbps Down, 0.80 Mbps up)
Other Info
Gigabyte GN-WP01GS 54g Wireless Lan Card
Not really relevant but I thought I'd just say that I get pops and crackles from my speaker system when someone turns on the kitchen light or someone uses certain power tools in the shed, it's really annoying.


Had the same issue at our home before we upgraded our electrical panel. Apparently a 100 amp setup is not enough to power a two family home and caused all kinds of issues like the one you described, including the lights dimming slightly when the fridges/AC's kicked on. Once we made the switch to a 200 amp panel all was well.
A cheaper solution to fix the issue is a battery backup unit, like an APC. That will eliminate all that, at least for whatever is plugged into it.
Also worth noting is that some older boards had a pci latency option in the bios and bumping it up a notch helped out but I have not seen that in ages.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Elsa
OS
windows 8.1 Pro x64
CPU
intel [email protected]
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msi mpower max ac
Memory
2x8gb ripjaws x @2133
Graphics Card(s)
asus r9-290@1100/1300
Sound Card
creative sbz
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dell u3011
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840 evo 250 & 8.5tb
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evga supernova p2-1000
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corsair air 540
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corsair h100
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logitech g710+
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logitech g502
Internet Speed
50/10
Antivirus
avg
Browser
firefox
Don't know about the 100/200 amp stuff, but let's just say were still running ceramic fuses using fuse wire, 1 Main and 4 others in a 3 bedroom house.

Also my speakers pop and crackle if their turned on they don't need any audio signal to do it, it does help when I forget to turn them off though.

We would get the house rewired but we're poor, well too poor to do that anyway.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self built
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
Intel Pentium Dual Core E5200 2.5GHz (3.77GHz OC)
Motherboard
Asus P5Q-E
Memory
Corsair 4GB DDR2 (4x1GB CM2X1024-6400C4)
Graphics Card(s)
Palit GeForce GTS 250 (1024MB)
Sound Card
On Board (ADI AD2000B 8ch HD)
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung 32in LCD TV
Screen Resolution
1360x768
Hard Drives
2 x 1TB Samsung 103SJ (Raid0)
2 x External 500GB Samsung 502IJ (NexStar 3 HD Enclosures)
PSU
550W Antec Neo HE 550
Case
Antec P180
Cooling
Xigmatex Red Scorpion CPU Cooler. 3x120mm Fans
Keyboard
Logitech MX5000 Laser (Combo)
Mouse
Logitech MX5000 Laser (Combo)
Internet Speed
ADSL2+ (avg 10 Mbps Down, 0.80 Mbps up)
Other Info
Gigabyte GN-WP01GS 54g Wireless Lan Card
The way around effects caused by flourescents and fridges is to use a seperate ring main. Otherwise you will get those effects, there's no way of dampening down.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
DIY
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Windows 7 home premium x64
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AMD FX-4100 AM3+ 3.6GHz 12MB Black Edition
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Asus M5A97 Pro
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Crsair vengeance 12Gb DDR3 1600MHz CL9
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Asus GTX 560 1GB
Sound Card
Realtek onboard
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Hanns G 1680x1050 native
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OCZ 128Gb Petrol ssd
2x500 Gb Samsung
PSU
OCZ StealthXstream II 500W
Internet Speed
8Mb or better
just looked up ceramic fuses...i take back what i thought was old haha;) You should definitely look into an APC
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Elsa
OS
windows 8.1 Pro x64
CPU
intel [email protected]
Motherboard
msi mpower max ac
Memory
2x8gb ripjaws x @2133
Graphics Card(s)
asus r9-290@1100/1300
Sound Card
creative sbz
Monitor(s) Displays
dell u3011
Hard Drives
840 evo 250 & 8.5tb
PSU
evga supernova p2-1000
Case
corsair air 540
Cooling
corsair h100
Keyboard
logitech g710+
Mouse
logitech g502
Internet Speed
50/10
Antivirus
avg
Browser
firefox
Not sure what you looked at but there like the ones here ceramic fuse products. If you scroll down to the first image with a red background you'll see the part on the right that you have to attach a piece of fuse wire between the two screws and runs through the little groove.

The pops and crackles are annoying but I have very little money at the moment to do anything. I have got use to though so it's becoming less annoying.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self built
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
Intel Pentium Dual Core E5200 2.5GHz (3.77GHz OC)
Motherboard
Asus P5Q-E
Memory
Corsair 4GB DDR2 (4x1GB CM2X1024-6400C4)
Graphics Card(s)
Palit GeForce GTS 250 (1024MB)
Sound Card
On Board (ADI AD2000B 8ch HD)
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung 32in LCD TV
Screen Resolution
1360x768
Hard Drives
2 x 1TB Samsung 103SJ (Raid0)
2 x External 500GB Samsung 502IJ (NexStar 3 HD Enclosures)
PSU
550W Antec Neo HE 550
Case
Antec P180
Cooling
Xigmatex Red Scorpion CPU Cooler. 3x120mm Fans
Keyboard
Logitech MX5000 Laser (Combo)
Mouse
Logitech MX5000 Laser (Combo)
Internet Speed
ADSL2+ (avg 10 Mbps Down, 0.80 Mbps up)
Other Info
Gigabyte GN-WP01GS 54g Wireless Lan Card
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