Solved Powering Down A HTPC

seekermeister

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For convenience, I have a couple of remote controls next to my bed, so that I can easily shutoff the computer and everything connected to it, when I get tired of viewing.

One remote simply puts the computer to sleep, which works fine, so far as it goes, but leaves the TV/monitor, DVD player, etc. running. So I put a remote controlled electrical switch in the outlet that the cable that powers all of these is plugged ito.

Unfortunately, when I shutoff all power, that defeats the sleep function, and after turning power back on, I have to turn the computer on at it's own power switch, and Windows thinks that there was a problem, and displays the boot options menu.

I was thinking about setting it to go into hibernation, instead of sleep, but that tends to create locked files on the hard drive, that I would rather not have.

I really don't care about whether anything is saved, or that it can continue where it left off, I just want an easy way to control it as I nod off, or want to wake to a movie. Can this be done without using hibernation?
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
DIY
OS
W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
CPU
Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
Motherboard
ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
Memory
2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Sound Card
Asus Xonar D2X/**Xonar D1
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H, Dell E152FPc /**LG M237-WD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 & 1024x768/**1980x1080
Hard Drives
WDC 2TB, 1.5TB, 1TB, 500GB,Seagate 500GB , Maxtor 80GB /**500GB Seagate & WDC 1TB Black
PSU
CM RS600 w/ APC BX1000G/**Antec 500 TP w/ APC BX1000
Case
HAF922/**Antec 1040IIB
Cooling
3x200mm, 1x140 and 1x120mm/**5x80mm fans
Keyboard
Logitech Media USB/**Saitek Eclipse
Mouse
Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
Internet Speed
3.3Mbps
Other Info
SB 560 5.1 w/ Sennheiser RS140/**Creative T20 speakers, Dvico FusionHDTV7 Gold RT, Cisco E3000, HP 5510V AIO, Linksys E3000, Belkin F5U237 hub and **F5D8055 adapter
(** = 2nd rig)

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HAL-9000
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit
CPU
Intel i7 3770K
Motherboard
Asus Sabertooth Z77
Memory
16GB DDR3 1333 Corsair XMS3
Graphics Card(s)
XFX HD6950 2GB EyeFinity
Sound Card
Logitech G35 & Sennheiser PC135 & VIA HD
Monitor(s) Displays
23" HP 2310e, 23" Samsung B2230, 21.5" Viewsonic
Screen Resolution
5760x1080
Hard Drives
16TB of Storage
128GB & 256GB Crucial M4 SSD's, 2X 1TB WD Black, 3x 2TB WD, 3x 2TB Samsung F4, 1.5TB Seagate, WD 500GB,
PSU
Antec True Power New 650watt
Case
Cooler Master HAF-932
Cooling
Corsair H60 Hydro Cooler, 3x 230mm Fans, 2x120mm Fan
Keyboard
Logitech G15 and G13
Mouse
Logitech G700 Gaming Mouse
Internet Speed
50/10 Mbit
Other Info
Speakers : Alesis M1 Active Mk2 Studio Monitors , APC RS 1200 UPS, HP 4500DN Color Laser, HP P1006 mono Laser, Kodak 8500 Dye-Sub, Epson 1280 inkjet, Epson Worforce 610 MFC
Plug the HTPC in another outlet?
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built Desktop By DataTech
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate X64 SP1
CPU
Intel i5-2550K, Differing ~4.4-4.8GHz No built in GPU
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
Memory
16GB G.Skill Sniper 1866MHz @ 2133MHz 2x8GB
Graphics Card(s)
ASUS GTX650TIB-DC2OC-2GD5, (650TI Boost)
Sound Card
Onboard Realtek 5-1
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung P2570HD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 840 Pro 256GB SSD for OS, 500GB Seagate Constellation (Enterprise drive) for Data
PSU
Corsair HX650W
Case
Inwin Dragon Rider
Cooling
Hyper 212 EVO w/two Noctua fans, push-pull, @1300 RPM
Keyboard
E-Z Eyes, bright yellow keys with large characters
Mouse
steelseries SENSEI Laser Pro Gaming
Internet Speed
48-51Mbs Mbs down, 11 Mbs up Xfinity Cable
Antivirus
Norton Internet Security 2013
Browser
IE 10, Opera, Pale Moon if needed
Other Info
4 case fans, LG BluRay-RE, ASUS DVD-RW, Mr. Fusion power supply, 1.21 gigawatts.
I think that both of you have misunderstood. The question is not about how to switch any of the hardware either on or off, it is about how to switch it on remotely, without having to go to the computer itself to do so. Yes, I can remotely put power to the PC, but that doesn't turn on the computer. I can not turn the computer on with the remote after it has had the power shutoff, because it no longer can recover from sleep. If I use the PC's own power switch, obviously I can't do that remotely. The idea is to be able to power on the hardware and reach desktop simultaneously remotely.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
DIY
OS
W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
CPU
Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
Motherboard
ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
Memory
2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Sound Card
Asus Xonar D2X/**Xonar D1
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H, Dell E152FPc /**LG M237-WD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 & 1024x768/**1980x1080
Hard Drives
WDC 2TB, 1.5TB, 1TB, 500GB,Seagate 500GB , Maxtor 80GB /**500GB Seagate & WDC 1TB Black
PSU
CM RS600 w/ APC BX1000G/**Antec 500 TP w/ APC BX1000
Case
HAF922/**Antec 1040IIB
Cooling
3x200mm, 1x140 and 1x120mm/**5x80mm fans
Keyboard
Logitech Media USB/**Saitek Eclipse
Mouse
Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
Internet Speed
3.3Mbps
Other Info
SB 560 5.1 w/ Sennheiser RS140/**Creative T20 speakers, Dvico FusionHDTV7 Gold RT, Cisco E3000, HP 5510V AIO, Linksys E3000, Belkin F5U237 hub and **F5D8055 adapter
(** = 2nd rig)
Maybe I didn't understand either, but I think Zepher's suggestion would be the best here in the sense that I understand that as if you plug the computer in the master one, when you put it to sleep, it shuts power down to everything else (slaves), and when you use your remote control to get your computer out of sleep, it gets power back to everything else.

Correct me if I'm wrong.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom built Desktop(Myself) Specs below - Also Asus G53SW-A1 laptop
OS
Windows 10 Pro / OpenSUSE
CPU
Intel Core i7 4790K
Motherboard
Asus Z97-A
Memory
32GB DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070
Sound Card
OnBoard
Monitor(s) Displays
3 X 1080P 24" displays
Screen Resolution
1280x1050 & 1920x1080
Hard Drives
SSD: Crucial M500 128GB
HD 1: WD Caviar Black 1TB
HD 2: WD Caviar Black 2TB
HD 3: WD Caviar Blue 500GB
PSU
Corsair CX650M
Case
Corsair Obisidian 450D
Cooling
Noctua NH-D14
Keyboard
Corsair K70 Vengeance (blue switches)
Mouse
Logitech M500
Internet Speed
65/10
Antivirus
Kaskersky Internet Securty
Browser
Opera
No. It appears that this isn't going to go anywhere, because I really don't know how to explain any better than I already have. It seems clear enough to me, but obviously I'm wrong, and if I continue to explain, all that it will do is to make the question even more unclear. I appreciate the efforts made to help, but unless someone can decipher my question, I will consider the thread dead.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
DIY
OS
W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
CPU
Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
Motherboard
ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
Memory
2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Sound Card
Asus Xonar D2X/**Xonar D1
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H, Dell E152FPc /**LG M237-WD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 & 1024x768/**1980x1080
Hard Drives
WDC 2TB, 1.5TB, 1TB, 500GB,Seagate 500GB , Maxtor 80GB /**500GB Seagate & WDC 1TB Black
PSU
CM RS600 w/ APC BX1000G/**Antec 500 TP w/ APC BX1000
Case
HAF922/**Antec 1040IIB
Cooling
3x200mm, 1x140 and 1x120mm/**5x80mm fans
Keyboard
Logitech Media USB/**Saitek Eclipse
Mouse
Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
Internet Speed
3.3Mbps
Other Info
SB 560 5.1 w/ Sennheiser RS140/**Creative T20 speakers, Dvico FusionHDTV7 Gold RT, Cisco E3000, HP 5510V AIO, Linksys E3000, Belkin F5U237 hub and **F5D8055 adapter
(** = 2nd rig)
LOL. Here how I understand it:
1. You can sleep the PC via remote.
2. You can power off all devices via remote, which defeats sleep since all are connected to a remote-controlled switch.
3. You want to power on everything remotely.
A. Powering off is not an issue.

I suggested a different plug for the HTPC so it would not turn off, and would resume from sleep, assuming you were waking it via remote too. A wireless mouse could wake it up.

If you don't care about data loss, configure your power setting in BIOS to Power on after a power outage i.e., turning it off. It would then turn on when power is turned back on.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built Desktop By DataTech
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate X64 SP1
CPU
Intel i5-2550K, Differing ~4.4-4.8GHz No built in GPU
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
Memory
16GB G.Skill Sniper 1866MHz @ 2133MHz 2x8GB
Graphics Card(s)
ASUS GTX650TIB-DC2OC-2GD5, (650TI Boost)
Sound Card
Onboard Realtek 5-1
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung P2570HD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 840 Pro 256GB SSD for OS, 500GB Seagate Constellation (Enterprise drive) for Data
PSU
Corsair HX650W
Case
Inwin Dragon Rider
Cooling
Hyper 212 EVO w/two Noctua fans, push-pull, @1300 RPM
Keyboard
E-Z Eyes, bright yellow keys with large characters
Mouse
steelseries SENSEI Laser Pro Gaming
Internet Speed
48-51Mbs Mbs down, 11 Mbs up Xfinity Cable
Antivirus
Norton Internet Security 2013
Browser
IE 10, Opera, Pale Moon if needed
Other Info
4 case fans, LG BluRay-RE, ASUS DVD-RW, Mr. Fusion power supply, 1.21 gigawatts.
I think that both of you have misunderstood. The question is not about how to switch any of the hardware either on or off, it is about how to switch it on remotely, without having to go to the computer itself to do so. Yes, I can remotely put power to the PC, but that doesn't turn on the computer. I can not turn the computer on with the remote after it has had the power shutoff, because it no longer can recover from sleep. If I use the PC's own power switch, obviously I can't do that remotely. The idea is to be able to power on the hardware and reach desktop simultaneously remotely.

In almost every BIOS is a setting as to what should happen when power is applied after a power failure (which is in essence what you simulate when you turn off the power strip). Set this to "on" and the computer will automatically turn on when you turn the power strip back on. This will not work for a hibernate or sleep situation.

Steps:

1) Shut down PC
2) Turn off power strip
3) Turn on power strip
4) PC comes on automatically based on BIOS setting
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate RTM (Technet)
CPU
3.00 gigahertz Intel Core2 Duo E8400
Motherboard
ASUSTeK Computer INC. P5K/EPU Rev 1.xx
Memory
4GB
Graphics Card(s)
ATI Radeon X1950 Pro
Sound Card
Built in HD Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
22" Gateway LCD
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1200
Hard Drives
ST3160023A [Hard drive] (160.04 GB) -- drive 0, rev 8.01, ST3500630AS [Hard drive] (500.11 GB) -- drive 2, rev 3.AAK
ST3500630AS [Hard drive] (500.11 GB) -- drive 1, rev 3.AAK
Keyboard
Logitech G11
Mouse
Microsoft Wireless Laser Mouse 5000
Internet Speed
13.44 Mbps
You can't power the PC on remotely unless it has power in it supplying the IR/Bluetooth (whatever you're using) receiver. In almost all cases (this one included, it seems) when the PC is off (shut down) all the power is cut, so the 'power on' signal from your remote will not be received.

You can leave it in sleep mode for this purpose, which should leave the receiver powered on and able to receive the 'power on' signal from your remote.

It's the same with a TV - put it on standby and you can use the remote to turn it back on; turn it off at the switch on the TV itself and the power is cut, so the remote won't work.

As for turning everything off at once, have a look at Logitech's Harmony remotes - they're universal remotes that can control everything in one go. They have a steep-ish learning/set-up curve, but once they're working well they're a real time saver.
Harmony Remotes
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
CreepinJesus Mk. IV
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
Intel Core i5-2500 3.3GHz
Motherboard
Asus P8H67-M PRO
Memory
8GB DDR3 1333MHz
Graphics Card(s)
On-board
Sound Card
On-board
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung SyncMaster BX2250 22.5" LED-backlit LCD
Screen Resolution
1920 * 1080
Hard Drives
OCZ Agility 3 120GB, SATA-III
PSU
Thermaltake Toughpower Grand TPG-650M
Case
Lian-Li PC-A04
Cooling
Standard fans. They blow.
Keyboard
Logitech K360
Mouse
Generic Logitech from the bargain-bin by the checkout
Internet Speed
Over 9000! ...Mbps.
Other Info
Chocolate digestives are my favourite biscuit.
No. It appears that this isn't going to go anywhere, because I really don't know how to explain any better than I already have. It seems clear enough to me, but obviously I'm wrong, and if I continue to explain, all that it will do is to make the question even more unclear. I appreciate the efforts made to help, but unless someone can decipher my question, I will consider the thread dead.

Using that Power Strip that I linked to above will allow you to press the sleep button on your remote that controls the PC and put the PC to sleep and turns off all of the other devices.
If that remote can wake up the PC, then it will wake it up and when the PC turns on, the rest of the devices plugged into the slave outlets will turn on.

I am not sure why you are confused with what I said, I answered your question exactly as you asked it.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HAL-9000
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit
CPU
Intel i7 3770K
Motherboard
Asus Sabertooth Z77
Memory
16GB DDR3 1333 Corsair XMS3
Graphics Card(s)
XFX HD6950 2GB EyeFinity
Sound Card
Logitech G35 & Sennheiser PC135 & VIA HD
Monitor(s) Displays
23" HP 2310e, 23" Samsung B2230, 21.5" Viewsonic
Screen Resolution
5760x1080
Hard Drives
16TB of Storage
128GB & 256GB Crucial M4 SSD's, 2X 1TB WD Black, 3x 2TB WD, 3x 2TB Samsung F4, 1.5TB Seagate, WD 500GB,
PSU
Antec True Power New 650watt
Case
Cooler Master HAF-932
Cooling
Corsair H60 Hydro Cooler, 3x 230mm Fans, 2x120mm Fan
Keyboard
Logitech G15 and G13
Mouse
Logitech G700 Gaming Mouse
Internet Speed
50/10 Mbit
Other Info
Speakers : Alesis M1 Active Mk2 Studio Monitors , APC RS 1200 UPS, HP 4500DN Color Laser, HP P1006 mono Laser, Kodak 8500 Dye-Sub, Epson 1280 inkjet, Epson Worforce 610 MFC
I think that both of you have misunderstood. The question is not about how to switch any of the hardware either on or off, it is about how to switch it on remotely, without having to go to the computer itself to do so. Yes, I can remotely put power to the PC, but that doesn't turn on the computer. I can not turn the computer on with the remote after it has had the power shutoff, because it no longer can recover from sleep. If I use the PC's own power switch, obviously I can't do that remotely. The idea is to be able to power on the hardware and reach desktop simultaneously remotely.

In almost every BIOS is a setting as to what should happen when power is applied after a power failure (which is in essence what you simulate when you turn off the power strip). Set this to "on" and the computer will automatically turn on when you turn the power strip back on. This will not work for a hibernate or sleep situation.

Steps:

1) Shut down PC
2) Turn off power strip
3) Turn on power strip
4) PC comes on automatically based on BIOS setting

Thank you very much, based on this, I have solved most of the problem. I had to delete the password on the primary account, and delete a secondary account, so that it would not require a login or choosing an account, but it works very well.

The only loose end remaining is due to the fact that I'm powering down by putting the computer to sleep (it seems prudent to shutdown more gracefully that a hard shutdown), the boot options window appears on power up, delaying everything for ~ 30 seconds, which it would be nice to eliminate, but I doubt that is possible. In any case, I consider the problem solved.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
DIY
OS
W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
CPU
Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
Motherboard
ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
Memory
2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Sound Card
Asus Xonar D2X/**Xonar D1
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H, Dell E152FPc /**LG M237-WD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 & 1024x768/**1980x1080
Hard Drives
WDC 2TB, 1.5TB, 1TB, 500GB,Seagate 500GB , Maxtor 80GB /**500GB Seagate & WDC 1TB Black
PSU
CM RS600 w/ APC BX1000G/**Antec 500 TP w/ APC BX1000
Case
HAF922/**Antec 1040IIB
Cooling
3x200mm, 1x140 and 1x120mm/**5x80mm fans
Keyboard
Logitech Media USB/**Saitek Eclipse
Mouse
Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
Internet Speed
3.3Mbps
Other Info
SB 560 5.1 w/ Sennheiser RS140/**Creative T20 speakers, Dvico FusionHDTV7 Gold RT, Cisco E3000, HP 5510V AIO, Linksys E3000, Belkin F5U237 hub and **F5D8055 adapter
(** = 2nd rig)
No. It appears that this isn't going to go anywhere, because I really don't know how to explain any better than I already have. It seems clear enough to me, but obviously I'm wrong, and if I continue to explain, all that it will do is to make the question even more unclear. I appreciate the efforts made to help, but unless someone can decipher my question, I will consider the thread dead.

Using that Power Strip that I linked to above will allow you to press the sleep button on your remote that controls the PC and put the PC to sleep and turns off all of the other devices.
If that remote can wake up the PC, then it will wake it up and when the PC turns on, the rest of the devices plugged into the slave outlets will turn on.

I am not sure why you are confused with what I said, I answered your question exactly as you asked it.

I apologize for having been so dense. Upon reading this post, I thought again about what you suggested, and realized that I had jumped to an unfounded conclusion. I now realize that your idea would have worked, but I will use MacGyvr's idea, simply because it doesn't cost anything.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
DIY
OS
W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
CPU
Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
Motherboard
ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
Memory
2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Sound Card
Asus Xonar D2X/**Xonar D1
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H, Dell E152FPc /**LG M237-WD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 & 1024x768/**1980x1080
Hard Drives
WDC 2TB, 1.5TB, 1TB, 500GB,Seagate 500GB , Maxtor 80GB /**500GB Seagate & WDC 1TB Black
PSU
CM RS600 w/ APC BX1000G/**Antec 500 TP w/ APC BX1000
Case
HAF922/**Antec 1040IIB
Cooling
3x200mm, 1x140 and 1x120mm/**5x80mm fans
Keyboard
Logitech Media USB/**Saitek Eclipse
Mouse
Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
Internet Speed
3.3Mbps
Other Info
SB 560 5.1 w/ Sennheiser RS140/**Creative T20 speakers, Dvico FusionHDTV7 Gold RT, Cisco E3000, HP 5510V AIO, Linksys E3000, Belkin F5U237 hub and **F5D8055 adapter
(** = 2nd rig)
I think that both of you have misunderstood. The question is not about how to switch any of the hardware either on or off, it is about how to switch it on remotely, without having to go to the computer itself to do so. Yes, I can remotely put power to the PC, but that doesn't turn on the computer. I can not turn the computer on with the remote after it has had the power shutoff, because it no longer can recover from sleep. If I use the PC's own power switch, obviously I can't do that remotely. The idea is to be able to power on the hardware and reach desktop simultaneously remotely.

In almost every BIOS is a setting as to what should happen when power is applied after a power failure (which is in essence what you simulate when you turn off the power strip). Set this to "on" and the computer will automatically turn on when you turn the power strip back on. This will not work for a hibernate or sleep situation.

Steps:

1) Shut down PC
2) Turn off power strip
3) Turn on power strip
4) PC comes on automatically based on BIOS setting

Thank you very much, based on this, I have solved most of the problem. I had to delete the password on the primary account, and delete a secondary account, so that it would not require a login or choosing an account, but it works very well.

The only loose end remaining is due to the fact that I'm powering down by putting the computer to sleep (it seems prudent to shutdown more gracefully that a hard shutdown), the boot options window appears on power up, delaying everything for ~ 30 seconds, which it would be nice to eliminate, but I doubt that is possible. In any case, I consider the problem solved.

I would have to say that putting the computer to sleep and then pulling the power is not 100% safe. It's better than pulling the power with the computer in use, but still not great. Is there any way you can perform a shutdown rather than sleep? Either way, glad it's working for you! :)
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate RTM (Technet)
CPU
3.00 gigahertz Intel Core2 Duo E8400
Motherboard
ASUSTeK Computer INC. P5K/EPU Rev 1.xx
Memory
4GB
Graphics Card(s)
ATI Radeon X1950 Pro
Sound Card
Built in HD Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
22" Gateway LCD
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1200
Hard Drives
ST3160023A [Hard drive] (160.04 GB) -- drive 0, rev 8.01, ST3500630AS [Hard drive] (500.11 GB) -- drive 2, rev 3.AAK
ST3500630AS [Hard drive] (500.11 GB) -- drive 1, rev 3.AAK
Keyboard
Logitech G11
Mouse
Microsoft Wireless Laser Mouse 5000
Internet Speed
13.44 Mbps
Not without getting out of bed, and going to the computer, and that was the entire point of this question...full remote control. I think that I could set it to go into hibernation, instead of sleep, but don't really want to, because of the locked files that it creates on the hard drive. Just how risky do you think that sleep is?
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
DIY
OS
W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
CPU
Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
Motherboard
ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
Memory
2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Sound Card
Asus Xonar D2X/**Xonar D1
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H, Dell E152FPc /**LG M237-WD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 & 1024x768/**1980x1080
Hard Drives
WDC 2TB, 1.5TB, 1TB, 500GB,Seagate 500GB , Maxtor 80GB /**500GB Seagate & WDC 1TB Black
PSU
CM RS600 w/ APC BX1000G/**Antec 500 TP w/ APC BX1000
Case
HAF922/**Antec 1040IIB
Cooling
3x200mm, 1x140 and 1x120mm/**5x80mm fans
Keyboard
Logitech Media USB/**Saitek Eclipse
Mouse
Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
Internet Speed
3.3Mbps
Other Info
SB 560 5.1 w/ Sennheiser RS140/**Creative T20 speakers, Dvico FusionHDTV7 Gold RT, Cisco E3000, HP 5510V AIO, Linksys E3000, Belkin F5U237 hub and **F5D8055 adapter
(** = 2nd rig)
I don't know what programs you have that would create locked files on hibernation, I use hibernation several times a day and never had any trouble with locked files.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom built Desktop(Myself) Specs below - Also Asus G53SW-A1 laptop
OS
Windows 10 Pro / OpenSUSE
CPU
Intel Core i7 4790K
Motherboard
Asus Z97-A
Memory
32GB DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070
Sound Card
OnBoard
Monitor(s) Displays
3 X 1080P 24" displays
Screen Resolution
1280x1050 & 1920x1080
Hard Drives
SSD: Crucial M500 128GB
HD 1: WD Caviar Black 1TB
HD 2: WD Caviar Black 2TB
HD 3: WD Caviar Blue 500GB
PSU
Corsair CX650M
Case
Corsair Obisidian 450D
Cooling
Noctua NH-D14
Keyboard
Corsair K70 Vengeance (blue switches)
Mouse
Logitech M500
Internet Speed
65/10
Antivirus
Kaskersky Internet Securty
Browser
Opera
Really? Have you ever used a program such as O&O Defrag, and check out all of the black blocks on the hard drive? If you use hibernation, you have locked files (actually, you have locked files whether you use hibernation or not, such as system volume information and other system files). This may not be a problem as far as normal use of the computer, but it is a problem, as far as I'm concerned.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
DIY
OS
W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
CPU
Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
Motherboard
ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
Memory
2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Sound Card
Asus Xonar D2X/**Xonar D1
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H, Dell E152FPc /**LG M237-WD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 & 1024x768/**1980x1080
Hard Drives
WDC 2TB, 1.5TB, 1TB, 500GB,Seagate 500GB , Maxtor 80GB /**500GB Seagate & WDC 1TB Black
PSU
CM RS600 w/ APC BX1000G/**Antec 500 TP w/ APC BX1000
Case
HAF922/**Antec 1040IIB
Cooling
3x200mm, 1x140 and 1x120mm/**5x80mm fans
Keyboard
Logitech Media USB/**Saitek Eclipse
Mouse
Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
Internet Speed
3.3Mbps
Other Info
SB 560 5.1 w/ Sennheiser RS140/**Creative T20 speakers, Dvico FusionHDTV7 Gold RT, Cisco E3000, HP 5510V AIO, Linksys E3000, Belkin F5U237 hub and **F5D8055 adapter
(** = 2nd rig)
I use Defraggler, but I thought it was normal to have those locked files, and it is always the same amount of blocks that is locked. It stays the same whether I do a full shutdown and start the next day or the hibernation.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom built Desktop(Myself) Specs below - Also Asus G53SW-A1 laptop
OS
Windows 10 Pro / OpenSUSE
CPU
Intel Core i7 4790K
Motherboard
Asus Z97-A
Memory
32GB DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070
Sound Card
OnBoard
Monitor(s) Displays
3 X 1080P 24" displays
Screen Resolution
1280x1050 & 1920x1080
Hard Drives
SSD: Crucial M500 128GB
HD 1: WD Caviar Black 1TB
HD 2: WD Caviar Black 2TB
HD 3: WD Caviar Blue 500GB
PSU
Corsair CX650M
Case
Corsair Obisidian 450D
Cooling
Noctua NH-D14
Keyboard
Corsair K70 Vengeance (blue switches)
Mouse
Logitech M500
Internet Speed
65/10
Antivirus
Kaskersky Internet Securty
Browser
Opera
Regardless of the size of the files, since they remain locked in place, they hinder proper defragging. It is SOP to disable hibernation prior to defragging, and if Defraggler has the ability to do an offline defrag, you should do so, because then it can move the other locked files as needed to get the best defrag.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
DIY
OS
W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
CPU
Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
Motherboard
ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
Memory
2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Sound Card
Asus Xonar D2X/**Xonar D1
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H, Dell E152FPc /**LG M237-WD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 & 1024x768/**1980x1080
Hard Drives
WDC 2TB, 1.5TB, 1TB, 500GB,Seagate 500GB , Maxtor 80GB /**500GB Seagate & WDC 1TB Black
PSU
CM RS600 w/ APC BX1000G/**Antec 500 TP w/ APC BX1000
Case
HAF922/**Antec 1040IIB
Cooling
3x200mm, 1x140 and 1x120mm/**5x80mm fans
Keyboard
Logitech Media USB/**Saitek Eclipse
Mouse
Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
Internet Speed
3.3Mbps
Other Info
SB 560 5.1 w/ Sennheiser RS140/**Creative T20 speakers, Dvico FusionHDTV7 Gold RT, Cisco E3000, HP 5510V AIO, Linksys E3000, Belkin F5U237 hub and **F5D8055 adapter
(** = 2nd rig)
Thanks for the advice (even if this is kind of thread hijack).
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom built Desktop(Myself) Specs below - Also Asus G53SW-A1 laptop
OS
Windows 10 Pro / OpenSUSE
CPU
Intel Core i7 4790K
Motherboard
Asus Z97-A
Memory
32GB DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070
Sound Card
OnBoard
Monitor(s) Displays
3 X 1080P 24" displays
Screen Resolution
1280x1050 & 1920x1080
Hard Drives
SSD: Crucial M500 128GB
HD 1: WD Caviar Black 1TB
HD 2: WD Caviar Black 2TB
HD 3: WD Caviar Blue 500GB
PSU
Corsair CX650M
Case
Corsair Obisidian 450D
Cooling
Noctua NH-D14
Keyboard
Corsair K70 Vengeance (blue switches)
Mouse
Logitech M500
Internet Speed
65/10
Antivirus
Kaskersky Internet Securty
Browser
Opera
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