PSU or UPS Problem? HELP!

boogieboy

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Hello :) first of all i would like to thanks all SF Members who always helped me out in the problems and guided me in the right direction and gave me good advises.

Now here's my problem and i'm confused between my PSU and UPS that which one of them could be the problem. In my country the Power-Failure is very common and unpredictible and beside that our Electricity goes completely off from the Grid to save electricity (Government Lie) on scheduled timings which is about as good as 5 to 6 hours a day in my area for now (Sometimes it's much worse than that) so to save my PC from any harm and this problem i'm using a 1200VA UPS just to shutdown Windows and turn off my PC properly and safely within 5mins though the UPS is able to give 20 to 25mins of backup time. At the start of this month i bought a new Graphics Card. Today in morning i was playing Crysis and suddenly there was a Power-Failure (Blackout) and as soon as the Power-Cut happened my PC restarted during gameplay.

Crysis is a game that uses the CPU & GPU at Max Peak and almost consume 90% or more power out of the PSU but the day i bought this Graphics Card i specially checked my PC by running Crysis on Max settings when my Power was about to go from the Grid and the PC did'nt restarted and in later days when i was playing Bulletstorm and few other games there was random Power-Failures and the PC did'nt restarted and the UPS managed to provide correct power to the whole system.

I noticed one thing today that my UPS was charging the battery for a long time about 1 Hr and 40mins after this problem when the Power came back by the Grid and usually after 5mins of battery usage it only takes few mins to recharge. So now i'm confused and i'm not sure which one of the thing is creating this problem :( is it the UPS Internal Dual-Batteries or the PSU that is draining more power during Power-Failures? My UPS is 14 Months old and the PSU is approx. 9 months old and still as good as new. Today i even ran Crysis and Turned Off my LCD and Wi-Fi Rounter which are attached with the UPS as well to check if the UPS is overloaded but the PC restarted without LCD and Rounter too :(

I used to had same problem with my old 400W Chinese PSU and 9600GT when i bought this UPS but some people suggested me on other forum (when i was'nt a member here) :) to replace PSU coz it had only 16amps on it where the 9600GT required 24amps. So when i replaced the PSU and got the one i'm still using i never had this problem since that day except today. I never had restart problem when i'm watching Movie, Browsing, Listen Music etc. This is all the info i can provide you now and hoping to hear from you guys and you may ask any questions if i'm missing something also my PC specs are below :):( Please HELP!
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self Built
OS
Windows 10 Pro
CPU
Core i5 9600K
Motherboard
ASUS ROG Strix Z390-F Gaming
Memory
Corsair Vengeance Pro 2x 8GB (16GB) 3200MHz DDR4
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X 8GB
Sound Card
ASRock A-Style Purity Sound
Monitor(s) Displays
ASUS VX239H IPS
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
XPG SPECTRIX S40G 2566GB M.2 NVMe | Patriot P210 512GB SSD | Seagate BarraCuda 4TB 5400RPM
PSU
Thermaltake Smart 600w RGB 80Plus
Case
NZXT H500 with 3x Corsair HD120 RGB w/Node Pro
Cooling
Cryorig H7
Keyboard
Corsair K70 RapidFire RGB (Cherry MX Speed)
Mouse
Logitech G402 Hyperion Fury
Internet Speed
20MB Cable Broadband
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
Corsair MM300 Extended Anti-Fray Mouse Pad | Edifier C2 2.1ch Sound System | XBOX One S Controller | XBOX 360 Wireless Controller for Windows | APC SUA1000i Smart-UPS | PS4 Slim 500GB [Region 1 - USA]
Sometimes when the batteries are used more than not then they tend to not hold as much charge as when they were first purchased which will over time wear out and not hold any charge when trying to charge them.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HAL-9000
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit
CPU
Intel i7 3770K
Motherboard
Asus Sabertooth Z77
Memory
16GB DDR3 1333 Corsair XMS3
Graphics Card(s)
XFX HD6950 2GB EyeFinity
Sound Card
Logitech G35 & Sennheiser PC135 & VIA HD
Monitor(s) Displays
23" HP 2310e, 23" Samsung B2230, 21.5" Viewsonic
Screen Resolution
5760x1080
Hard Drives
16TB of Storage
128GB & 256GB Crucial M4 SSD's, 2X 1TB WD Black, 3x 2TB WD, 3x 2TB Samsung F4, 1.5TB Seagate, WD 500GB,
PSU
Antec True Power New 650watt
Case
Cooler Master HAF-932
Cooling
Corsair H60 Hydro Cooler, 3x 230mm Fans, 2x120mm Fan
Keyboard
Logitech G15 and G13
Mouse
Logitech G700 Gaming Mouse
Internet Speed
50/10 Mbit
Other Info
Speakers : Alesis M1 Active Mk2 Studio Monitors , APC RS 1200 UPS, HP 4500DN Color Laser, HP P1006 mono Laser, Kodak 8500 Dye-Sub, Epson 1280 inkjet, Epson Worforce 610 MFC
First you should adjust you BIOS to remain OFF in a power failure.
Since your power goes off daily, that has probably drained the batteries to the point where more charging was needed to get back to 100% charge. I'm guessing that is the case since it shut down right away in the power blackout.
I doubt is the PSU is at fault assuming it is a good one and giving you 20%-25% more power than is needed.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built Desktop By DataTech
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate X64 SP1
CPU
Intel i5-2550K, Differing ~4.4-4.8GHz No built in GPU
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
Memory
16GB G.Skill Sniper 1866MHz @ 2133MHz 2x8GB
Graphics Card(s)
ASUS GTX650TIB-DC2OC-2GD5, (650TI Boost)
Sound Card
Onboard Realtek 5-1
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung P2570HD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 840 Pro 256GB SSD for OS, 500GB Seagate Constellation (Enterprise drive) for Data
PSU
Corsair HX650W
Case
Inwin Dragon Rider
Cooling
Hyper 212 EVO w/two Noctua fans, push-pull, @1300 RPM
Keyboard
E-Z Eyes, bright yellow keys with large characters
Mouse
steelseries SENSEI Laser Pro Gaming
Internet Speed
48-51Mbs Mbs down, 11 Mbs up Xfinity Cable
Antivirus
Norton Internet Security 2013
Browser
IE 10, Opera, Pale Moon if needed
Other Info
4 case fans, LG BluRay-RE, ASUS DVD-RW, Mr. Fusion power supply, 1.21 gigawatts.
Thanks for the quick response Zepher and Britton30 :) so the batteries need to be replaces?
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self Built
OS
Windows 10 Pro
CPU
Core i5 9600K
Motherboard
ASUS ROG Strix Z390-F Gaming
Memory
Corsair Vengeance Pro 2x 8GB (16GB) 3200MHz DDR4
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X 8GB
Sound Card
ASRock A-Style Purity Sound
Monitor(s) Displays
ASUS VX239H IPS
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
XPG SPECTRIX S40G 2566GB M.2 NVMe | Patriot P210 512GB SSD | Seagate BarraCuda 4TB 5400RPM
PSU
Thermaltake Smart 600w RGB 80Plus
Case
NZXT H500 with 3x Corsair HD120 RGB w/Node Pro
Cooling
Cryorig H7
Keyboard
Corsair K70 RapidFire RGB (Cherry MX Speed)
Mouse
Logitech G402 Hyperion Fury
Internet Speed
20MB Cable Broadband
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
Corsair MM300 Extended Anti-Fray Mouse Pad | Edifier C2 2.1ch Sound System | XBOX One S Controller | XBOX 360 Wireless Controller for Windows | APC SUA1000i Smart-UPS | PS4 Slim 500GB [Region 1 - USA]
Can't say that for certain boogie, let them charge for several hours and pull the plug from the UPS and see if the PC shuts down right away or waits 5 minutes.

You'd have to remove the batteries and check them with a battery tester.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built Desktop By DataTech
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate X64 SP1
CPU
Intel i5-2550K, Differing ~4.4-4.8GHz No built in GPU
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
Memory
16GB G.Skill Sniper 1866MHz @ 2133MHz 2x8GB
Graphics Card(s)
ASUS GTX650TIB-DC2OC-2GD5, (650TI Boost)
Sound Card
Onboard Realtek 5-1
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung P2570HD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 840 Pro 256GB SSD for OS, 500GB Seagate Constellation (Enterprise drive) for Data
PSU
Corsair HX650W
Case
Inwin Dragon Rider
Cooling
Hyper 212 EVO w/two Noctua fans, push-pull, @1300 RPM
Keyboard
E-Z Eyes, bright yellow keys with large characters
Mouse
steelseries SENSEI Laser Pro Gaming
Internet Speed
48-51Mbs Mbs down, 11 Mbs up Xfinity Cable
Antivirus
Norton Internet Security 2013
Browser
IE 10, Opera, Pale Moon if needed
Other Info
4 case fans, LG BluRay-RE, ASUS DVD-RW, Mr. Fusion power supply, 1.21 gigawatts.
I understand your power situation completely, boogieboy! The US Virgin Islands has an outdated oil-burning power plant that goes off line from time to time. Everyone in their right mind here has a UPS for their PC!

I do some network/internet work for a couple of resorts here & have found that UPS batteries do lose their stamina when they must kick in a few times a day. More than likely you need new batteries. If you still have problems after replacing the batteries, then there is an issue with the circuitry in the UPS & time to buy a new one!

Please note that replacement batteries from the UPS manufacturer are often over-priced. I always order from a battery supply company that sells 12 volt, 7 amp hour sealed lead acid rechargable batteries. They are just as good & cost much less.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Professional 64 Bit SP1
CPU
Intel i7-3770K. Mild Overclock to 4.2 Ghz
Motherboard
ASUS Sabertooth Z77
Memory
Crucial Ballistix Sport 32GB DDR3-1600 (PC3-12800)
Graphics Card(s)
Intel 4000 - On CPU
Sound Card
On Board
Monitor(s) Displays
HP w2408h
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1200
Hard Drives
Samsung 840 Pro 256Gb SSD, --
Two - WDC WD1001FALS-00J7B0 SATA
PSU
Antec EarthWatts Green Series 650 Watt ATX
Case
Fractal Design Core 3000 ATX
Cooling
Corsair H80i Water Cooled
Keyboard
Logitech Illuminated
Mouse
Logitech Wireless Trackball M570 + Touchpad T650
Internet Speed
9.5 Mbps down - 25.4 Mbps upload
Antivirus
MSE
Browser
IE 10, Chrome
I just went into BIOS the 12v Voltage are Highlighted as red in the Power/Hardware Monitor menu where you can see the CPU Temps and Voltages :confused: what does it mean? is it something related to PSU that it's not providing sufficient voltages on the 12v rail due to the 6pin on the Graphics Card?

@ Britton30
My UPS is always fully charged :) and i also checked the UPS by pulling the plug out of the socket for 6 to 7 mins and the PC was running and suprisingly the UPS recharged very quickly like normal in 1 to 2 mins :shock: I talked to the guy from whome i bought it and he asked me to bring it and he will check the UPS and batteries :sleepy:

@ TBoyd
I agree with you and yes when i talked to that guy from the store and asked him about the price of Batteries so they were over-priced. i will look from other battery supplier. Sad to hear about this that it's happening at your side too. I hope the circuitry is working properly.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self Built
OS
Windows 10 Pro
CPU
Core i5 9600K
Motherboard
ASUS ROG Strix Z390-F Gaming
Memory
Corsair Vengeance Pro 2x 8GB (16GB) 3200MHz DDR4
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X 8GB
Sound Card
ASRock A-Style Purity Sound
Monitor(s) Displays
ASUS VX239H IPS
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
XPG SPECTRIX S40G 2566GB M.2 NVMe | Patriot P210 512GB SSD | Seagate BarraCuda 4TB 5400RPM
PSU
Thermaltake Smart 600w RGB 80Plus
Case
NZXT H500 with 3x Corsair HD120 RGB w/Node Pro
Cooling
Cryorig H7
Keyboard
Corsair K70 RapidFire RGB (Cherry MX Speed)
Mouse
Logitech G402 Hyperion Fury
Internet Speed
20MB Cable Broadband
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
Corsair MM300 Extended Anti-Fray Mouse Pad | Edifier C2 2.1ch Sound System | XBOX One S Controller | XBOX 360 Wireless Controller for Windows | APC SUA1000i Smart-UPS | PS4 Slim 500GB [Region 1 - USA]
OK i checked the UPS and PSU by throwing the Breaker down from the DP Circuit of the house 3 times by running Crysis and probably the system was running at peak with LCD and router as well and the PC did'nt restarted :huh: even yesterday i was playing Bulletstorm and the Power Failure happened and it did'nt restarted :confused: I even checked by pulling out the plug for 2 to 3 times yesterday.... nothing happened. However i did took out the UPS plug before turning on PC and everyting and cleaned it and replug the cord. What could be the problem ?
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self Built
OS
Windows 10 Pro
CPU
Core i5 9600K
Motherboard
ASUS ROG Strix Z390-F Gaming
Memory
Corsair Vengeance Pro 2x 8GB (16GB) 3200MHz DDR4
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X 8GB
Sound Card
ASRock A-Style Purity Sound
Monitor(s) Displays
ASUS VX239H IPS
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
XPG SPECTRIX S40G 2566GB M.2 NVMe | Patriot P210 512GB SSD | Seagate BarraCuda 4TB 5400RPM
PSU
Thermaltake Smart 600w RGB 80Plus
Case
NZXT H500 with 3x Corsair HD120 RGB w/Node Pro
Cooling
Cryorig H7
Keyboard
Corsair K70 RapidFire RGB (Cherry MX Speed)
Mouse
Logitech G402 Hyperion Fury
Internet Speed
20MB Cable Broadband
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
Corsair MM300 Extended Anti-Fray Mouse Pad | Edifier C2 2.1ch Sound System | XBOX One S Controller | XBOX 360 Wireless Controller for Windows | APC SUA1000i Smart-UPS | PS4 Slim 500GB [Region 1 - USA]
When you state that the PC didn't restarted when you threw the breaker down, do you mean that the UPS did not supply any backup power to your PC as soon as you threw the breaker?

Any success yet finding new batteries?
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Professional 64 Bit SP1
CPU
Intel i7-3770K. Mild Overclock to 4.2 Ghz
Motherboard
ASUS Sabertooth Z77
Memory
Crucial Ballistix Sport 32GB DDR3-1600 (PC3-12800)
Graphics Card(s)
Intel 4000 - On CPU
Sound Card
On Board
Monitor(s) Displays
HP w2408h
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1200
Hard Drives
Samsung 840 Pro 256Gb SSD, --
Two - WDC WD1001FALS-00J7B0 SATA
PSU
Antec EarthWatts Green Series 650 Watt ATX
Case
Fractal Design Core 3000 ATX
Cooling
Corsair H80i Water Cooled
Keyboard
Logitech Illuminated
Mouse
Logitech Wireless Trackball M570 + Touchpad T650
Internet Speed
9.5 Mbps down - 25.4 Mbps upload
Antivirus
MSE
Browser
IE 10, Chrome
no i meant when i threw the breaker from the circuit PC was running and Crysis (Game) was running and the UPS supplied the backup to the PC successfully and when turn back on the breaker the UPS recharged normally just like everytime. I tested 3 times.

P.S. OK it happened again when i tested PC by running Crysis and as soon as the Power went down from the Grid (not the breaker) it restarted... So im assuming it's the PSU that is drawing more power from the battery on peak load and cant handle to provide clean power to the GPU. I think it's time to buy new PSU :(
 
Last edited:

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self Built
OS
Windows 10 Pro
CPU
Core i5 9600K
Motherboard
ASUS ROG Strix Z390-F Gaming
Memory
Corsair Vengeance Pro 2x 8GB (16GB) 3200MHz DDR4
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X 8GB
Sound Card
ASRock A-Style Purity Sound
Monitor(s) Displays
ASUS VX239H IPS
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
XPG SPECTRIX S40G 2566GB M.2 NVMe | Patriot P210 512GB SSD | Seagate BarraCuda 4TB 5400RPM
PSU
Thermaltake Smart 600w RGB 80Plus
Case
NZXT H500 with 3x Corsair HD120 RGB w/Node Pro
Cooling
Cryorig H7
Keyboard
Corsair K70 RapidFire RGB (Cherry MX Speed)
Mouse
Logitech G402 Hyperion Fury
Internet Speed
20MB Cable Broadband
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
Corsair MM300 Extended Anti-Fray Mouse Pad | Edifier C2 2.1ch Sound System | XBOX One S Controller | XBOX 360 Wireless Controller for Windows | APC SUA1000i Smart-UPS | PS4 Slim 500GB [Region 1 - USA]
I dont understand one thing.. when i check by throwing the breaker down (which as the experts say that it simulates a power outage to check the UPS) nothing happens and the PC keeps on running during game where the GPU+CPU+PSU is on full load and stress. I even checked the GPU load with the help of GPU-Z and tested several games on it like Assassin's Creed: Brotherhood uses GPU 40% to 60%, Bulletstorm as well, Super Street Fighter IV uses on 25% to 30% GPU Load and PC dont restart on them. However Crysis and Metro 2033 especially uses almost 100% GPU in some places and it's average load on GPU is 90% and above. So lets say Playing games like Crysis and Metro 2033 which are Hardware hungary apps uses the Maximum power off the system in easy words the PSU is at it's Peak Load.. but i remember exactly the day i installed this new Graphics Card AMD 6850 i ran Crysis 2 times and played it until the Power-Failure happened and PC did'nt restarted.

Also i do remember when i installed Assassin's Creed: Brotherhood my other applications started to give me errors. Yahoo Messenger gave me error and some other application was crashed so i updated my Windows and those errors and crashes were gone and fixed but later after several days when i ran Crysis and power outage happened this problem started.

So is there a possiblity the Windows has something to do with it after updating it? Does throwing breaker down from the DP really simulate an actual Power-Outage or it has to be a proper real power failure/outage from the Grid. What is this Mystery?
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self Built
OS
Windows 10 Pro
CPU
Core i5 9600K
Motherboard
ASUS ROG Strix Z390-F Gaming
Memory
Corsair Vengeance Pro 2x 8GB (16GB) 3200MHz DDR4
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X 8GB
Sound Card
ASRock A-Style Purity Sound
Monitor(s) Displays
ASUS VX239H IPS
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
XPG SPECTRIX S40G 2566GB M.2 NVMe | Patriot P210 512GB SSD | Seagate BarraCuda 4TB 5400RPM
PSU
Thermaltake Smart 600w RGB 80Plus
Case
NZXT H500 with 3x Corsair HD120 RGB w/Node Pro
Cooling
Cryorig H7
Keyboard
Corsair K70 RapidFire RGB (Cherry MX Speed)
Mouse
Logitech G402 Hyperion Fury
Internet Speed
20MB Cable Broadband
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
Corsair MM300 Extended Anti-Fray Mouse Pad | Edifier C2 2.1ch Sound System | XBOX One S Controller | XBOX 360 Wireless Controller for Windows | APC SUA1000i Smart-UPS | PS4 Slim 500GB [Region 1 - USA]
By pulling the plug for the UPS from the wall is fine to simulate a power outage.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built Desktop By DataTech
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate X64 SP1
CPU
Intel i5-2550K, Differing ~4.4-4.8GHz No built in GPU
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
Memory
16GB G.Skill Sniper 1866MHz @ 2133MHz 2x8GB
Graphics Card(s)
ASUS GTX650TIB-DC2OC-2GD5, (650TI Boost)
Sound Card
Onboard Realtek 5-1
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung P2570HD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 840 Pro 256GB SSD for OS, 500GB Seagate Constellation (Enterprise drive) for Data
PSU
Corsair HX650W
Case
Inwin Dragon Rider
Cooling
Hyper 212 EVO w/two Noctua fans, push-pull, @1300 RPM
Keyboard
E-Z Eyes, bright yellow keys with large characters
Mouse
steelseries SENSEI Laser Pro Gaming
Internet Speed
48-51Mbs Mbs down, 11 Mbs up Xfinity Cable
Antivirus
Norton Internet Security 2013
Browser
IE 10, Opera, Pale Moon if needed
Other Info
4 case fans, LG BluRay-RE, ASUS DVD-RW, Mr. Fusion power supply, 1.21 gigawatts.
Does throwing breaker down from the DP really simulate an actual Power-Outage or it has to be a proper real power failure/outage from the Grid. What is this Mystery?

It makes no difference. Your battery backup will kick in when it is not getting power from the power grid. It doesn't matter how you disconnect the power to test.

You never mentioned the brand of UPS you have. Did it not come with software? I use APC UPS's & the better models come with software that gives you good info - such as the current load you have connected, the estimated runtime, the input voltage, etc. You may also initiate a self-test to see if the batteries are in good shape. It takes a lot of guess-work out of the picture.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Professional 64 Bit SP1
CPU
Intel i7-3770K. Mild Overclock to 4.2 Ghz
Motherboard
ASUS Sabertooth Z77
Memory
Crucial Ballistix Sport 32GB DDR3-1600 (PC3-12800)
Graphics Card(s)
Intel 4000 - On CPU
Sound Card
On Board
Monitor(s) Displays
HP w2408h
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1200
Hard Drives
Samsung 840 Pro 256Gb SSD, --
Two - WDC WD1001FALS-00J7B0 SATA
PSU
Antec EarthWatts Green Series 650 Watt ATX
Case
Fractal Design Core 3000 ATX
Cooling
Corsair H80i Water Cooled
Keyboard
Logitech Illuminated
Mouse
Logitech Wireless Trackball M570 + Touchpad T650
Internet Speed
9.5 Mbps down - 25.4 Mbps upload
Antivirus
MSE
Browser
IE 10, Chrome
It is possible that since you have a power grid that goes down regularly it could be spiking as it goes off. Idk for sure but the UPS might be goin past its input range ( usually they can take a range eg.110-125V, and if you give it outside that range it would most likely shutdown all power to protect itself.

That would not be simulated by flipping the breaker but would cause problems if its spiking too far.
Not for sure but worth a look

Sent from my Droid Incredible
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x86
Motherboard
Asus P5N-D
Memory
8 Gig(4 x 2 Gig)
Graphics Card(s)
2 x GeForce 9500 GT (SLI)
Monitor(s) Displays
2 x 25" VGA, 1 37" DVI-D
Hard Drives
1x 5400 RPM 100 gig
4 x 5400 RPM 250 gig RAID 0+1
1 TB USB 3.0 external hard drive
500 gig external
My UPS is a SVC-1200VA :o it's a chinese made but well made unit and it's quiet popular here. It has AVR and <10ms of transfer time and other features etc. APC are very expensive here and i'll have to pay 3 times the price of SVC for 1 1200VA APC unit :(

@ kool1zero
You could be right and it's happening something like you mentioned but idk how to check problem :confused: and it only happens when power goes off by the grid and only when my system is running some game which uses GPU @ full load.. never restarted by pulling the plug out and throwing the breaker down i checked more than 10 times randomly in past 2 days... is there anyway to check it and fix it?
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self Built
OS
Windows 10 Pro
CPU
Core i5 9600K
Motherboard
ASUS ROG Strix Z390-F Gaming
Memory
Corsair Vengeance Pro 2x 8GB (16GB) 3200MHz DDR4
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X 8GB
Sound Card
ASRock A-Style Purity Sound
Monitor(s) Displays
ASUS VX239H IPS
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
XPG SPECTRIX S40G 2566GB M.2 NVMe | Patriot P210 512GB SSD | Seagate BarraCuda 4TB 5400RPM
PSU
Thermaltake Smart 600w RGB 80Plus
Case
NZXT H500 with 3x Corsair HD120 RGB w/Node Pro
Cooling
Cryorig H7
Keyboard
Corsair K70 RapidFire RGB (Cherry MX Speed)
Mouse
Logitech G402 Hyperion Fury
Internet Speed
20MB Cable Broadband
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
Corsair MM300 Extended Anti-Fray Mouse Pad | Edifier C2 2.1ch Sound System | XBOX One S Controller | XBOX 360 Wireless Controller for Windows | APC SUA1000i Smart-UPS | PS4 Slim 500GB [Region 1 - USA]
If you wanna see if it is spiking you could use something called an oscilliscope and you could try maybe just put a surge protector before your UPS. I'd try the surge protector first. Also since your ups has a powerstrip as part of it you should only use the one plug on ur surge protector
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x86
Motherboard
Asus P5N-D
Memory
8 Gig(4 x 2 Gig)
Graphics Card(s)
2 x GeForce 9500 GT (SLI)
Monitor(s) Displays
2 x 25" VGA, 1 37" DVI-D
Hard Drives
1x 5400 RPM 100 gig
4 x 5400 RPM 250 gig RAID 0+1
1 TB USB 3.0 external hard drive
500 gig external
Bilal, what do you have connected to your UPS? I have my PC, Cable modem, router, and monitor on the back up outlets. I have a 750VA APC BackUPS unit set to shut down after 5 minutes of power outage.
For pure PC protection you don't need to have speakers, printer, or scanner on back up. You would do well to get a APC, Tripp-Lite, or CyberPower unit.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built Desktop By DataTech
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate X64 SP1
CPU
Intel i5-2550K, Differing ~4.4-4.8GHz No built in GPU
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
Memory
16GB G.Skill Sniper 1866MHz @ 2133MHz 2x8GB
Graphics Card(s)
ASUS GTX650TIB-DC2OC-2GD5, (650TI Boost)
Sound Card
Onboard Realtek 5-1
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung P2570HD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 840 Pro 256GB SSD for OS, 500GB Seagate Constellation (Enterprise drive) for Data
PSU
Corsair HX650W
Case
Inwin Dragon Rider
Cooling
Hyper 212 EVO w/two Noctua fans, push-pull, @1300 RPM
Keyboard
E-Z Eyes, bright yellow keys with large characters
Mouse
steelseries SENSEI Laser Pro Gaming
Internet Speed
48-51Mbs Mbs down, 11 Mbs up Xfinity Cable
Antivirus
Norton Internet Security 2013
Browser
IE 10, Opera, Pale Moon if needed
Other Info
4 case fans, LG BluRay-RE, ASUS DVD-RW, Mr. Fusion power supply, 1.21 gigawatts.
First of all sorry for late replying coz i just sent my motherboard in warranty as it has voltage sensor problem and got new one as replqcement :) but i did'nt assemble my pc yet. Also bought new PSU Cooler Master GX550w 80Plus Brone today in order to provide better and clean power to PC :)

@Britton30
I'm only using LCD, PC and Wireless Router which are plugged in a Power-Strip which is connected with the UPS in 1 Power Outlet although the UPS has 3 Outlets but im using one due to Power Socket that is 7 feet away from Computer :( not using anything else.

@kool1zero
I'll try with it too but i did not understood little what to do about Surge Protector :confused:
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self Built
OS
Windows 10 Pro
CPU
Core i5 9600K
Motherboard
ASUS ROG Strix Z390-F Gaming
Memory
Corsair Vengeance Pro 2x 8GB (16GB) 3200MHz DDR4
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X 8GB
Sound Card
ASRock A-Style Purity Sound
Monitor(s) Displays
ASUS VX239H IPS
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
XPG SPECTRIX S40G 2566GB M.2 NVMe | Patriot P210 512GB SSD | Seagate BarraCuda 4TB 5400RPM
PSU
Thermaltake Smart 600w RGB 80Plus
Case
NZXT H500 with 3x Corsair HD120 RGB w/Node Pro
Cooling
Cryorig H7
Keyboard
Corsair K70 RapidFire RGB (Cherry MX Speed)
Mouse
Logitech G402 Hyperion Fury
Internet Speed
20MB Cable Broadband
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
Corsair MM300 Extended Anti-Fray Mouse Pad | Edifier C2 2.1ch Sound System | XBOX One S Controller | XBOX 360 Wireless Controller for Windows | APC SUA1000i Smart-UPS | PS4 Slim 500GB [Region 1 - USA]
No worries about that. My suggestions were more of a technical nature.

I think with a new mobo and a slightly larger and better quality psu you're set

Sent from my Droid Incredible
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x86
Motherboard
Asus P5N-D
Memory
8 Gig(4 x 2 Gig)
Graphics Card(s)
2 x GeForce 9500 GT (SLI)
Monitor(s) Displays
2 x 25" VGA, 1 37" DVI-D
Hard Drives
1x 5400 RPM 100 gig
4 x 5400 RPM 250 gig RAID 0+1
1 TB USB 3.0 external hard drive
500 gig external
I hope that too :) thanks for all the Help kool1zero, Britton30, TBoyd and Zepher :) I will let you know the results when i will test again :confused: idk but still my heart beat start pumping fast when i think if something will go wrong again ..... :(
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self Built
OS
Windows 10 Pro
CPU
Core i5 9600K
Motherboard
ASUS ROG Strix Z390-F Gaming
Memory
Corsair Vengeance Pro 2x 8GB (16GB) 3200MHz DDR4
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X 8GB
Sound Card
ASRock A-Style Purity Sound
Monitor(s) Displays
ASUS VX239H IPS
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
XPG SPECTRIX S40G 2566GB M.2 NVMe | Patriot P210 512GB SSD | Seagate BarraCuda 4TB 5400RPM
PSU
Thermaltake Smart 600w RGB 80Plus
Case
NZXT H500 with 3x Corsair HD120 RGB w/Node Pro
Cooling
Cryorig H7
Keyboard
Corsair K70 RapidFire RGB (Cherry MX Speed)
Mouse
Logitech G402 Hyperion Fury
Internet Speed
20MB Cable Broadband
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
Corsair MM300 Extended Anti-Fray Mouse Pad | Edifier C2 2.1ch Sound System | XBOX One S Controller | XBOX 360 Wireless Controller for Windows | APC SUA1000i Smart-UPS | PS4 Slim 500GB [Region 1 - USA]
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