RAM Performance

This is your bios -CPU frequency
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The deeper I dig, the darker it gets. On mine, it is called the CPU Frequency Multiplier, but I changed that from 16 to 17...no change. I then changed it from 17 to 18...no change. Then I changed it from 16 to 18 in Overdrive and the CPU frequency went from 3200 to 3600, but the RAM speed remained exactly the same as before. There is still something that we are missing.
 

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W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
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Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
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ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
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2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
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EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
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(** = 2nd rig)
The deeper I dig, the darker it gets. On mine, it is called the CPU Frequency Multiplier, but I changed that from 16 to 17...no change. I then changed it from 17 to 18...no change. Then I changed it from 16 to 18 in Overdrive and the CPU frequency went from 3200 to 3600, but the RAM speed remained exactly the same as before. There is still something that we are missing.

No, not the multiplier the CPU frequency. Change that from 200 to 240. Leave the multiplier at stock.
 

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Okay, the multiplier is back to default. I assumed that you were talking about the CPU Frequency under the Overclock Mode, which I changed from auto to manual, which did change those values from gray to blue, yet when I tried to hit the enter key with the CPU Frequency selected, nothing would happen. It would not let me change it.
 

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W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCEPhenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w...2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsai...EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
DIY
OS
W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
CPU
Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
Motherboard
ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
Memory
2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Sound Card
Asus Xonar D2X/**Xonar D1
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Acer X233H, Dell E152FPc /**LG M237-WD
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1920x1080 & 1024x768/**1980x1080
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WDC 2TB, 1.5TB, 1TB, 500GB,Seagate 500GB , Maxtor 80GB /**500GB Seagate & WDC 1TB Black
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CM RS600 w/ APC BX1000G/**Antec 500 TP w/ APC BX1000
Case
HAF922/**Antec 1040IIB
Cooling
3x200mm, 1x140 and 1x120mm/**5x80mm fans
Keyboard
Logitech Media USB/**Saitek Eclipse
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Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
Internet Speed
3.3Mbps
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SB 560 5.1 w/ Sennheiser RS140/**Creative T20 speakers, Dvico FusionHDTV7 Gold RT, Cisco E3000, HP 5510V AIO, Linksys E3000, Belkin F5U237 hub and **F5D8055 adapter
(** = 2nd rig)
Your manual will tell you how. Sometimes it is with the + key, sometimes you just type in the number. Different boards function differently.
 

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    32 GB LPDDR5X 8533
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    16" Mini-LED HDR600 Touch 90 Hz
    Screen Resolution
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    1 TB NVME
You were right about using the + & - keys (despite the fact that neither the manual or the BIOS side notes said anything about it) to adjust the frequency, but that didn't work out very well. At first, I changed it to 240 as suggested, but the computer failed to display even a BIOS screen on reboot. I checked the Dr. Debug code, which was d5, but checking in the manual, it doesn't even show that code. I then restarted it twice more, before it finally displayed the BIOS screen, which had a note about having failed to boot, and gave some options, but I went ahead and let it go to Windows. After reaching desktop, the system froze solid after several System Tray icons appeared, so I tried a forced boot. I then decided to try 220, but after an unusually long delay, it continued in what appeared to be a normal fashion, but of course Windows displayed the Boot Startup Menu. I let that go for a normal boot, but it hung at the Windows Logo screen. I then returned it back to the default value of 200, and finally got a normal boot. All of t his has somewhat discouraged me from trying that again, unless there is something more that should be done first.
 

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W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCEPhenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w...2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsai...EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
DIY
OS
W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
CPU
Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
Motherboard
ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
Memory
2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Sound Card
Asus Xonar D2X/**Xonar D1
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H, Dell E152FPc /**LG M237-WD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 & 1024x768/**1980x1080
Hard Drives
WDC 2TB, 1.5TB, 1TB, 500GB,Seagate 500GB , Maxtor 80GB /**500GB Seagate & WDC 1TB Black
PSU
CM RS600 w/ APC BX1000G/**Antec 500 TP w/ APC BX1000
Case
HAF922/**Antec 1040IIB
Cooling
3x200mm, 1x140 and 1x120mm/**5x80mm fans
Keyboard
Logitech Media USB/**Saitek Eclipse
Mouse
Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
Internet Speed
3.3Mbps
Other Info
SB 560 5.1 w/ Sennheiser RS140/**Creative T20 speakers, Dvico FusionHDTV7 Gold RT, Cisco E3000, HP 5510V AIO, Linksys E3000, Belkin F5U237 hub and **F5D8055 adapter
(** = 2nd rig)
I'm not sure what to say. It should have worked, no problem. That's what I did to mine. I don't have a black chip which will OC easier. I have a 1055T which is locked. So, I think some other setting is wrong. BTW, I forgot to mention to disable turbo. at 240 and a multiplier of 16 you will be at 3840, you sure wouldn't want turbo to kick in. I was running 1600 ram with 7-8-7 timings. The boardset it at 1333 9-9--9-24. I manually set the timings, set voltage at 1.6 and increased he FSB. Put me at a 20% OC. or running at 3360 from a stock 2800. nless something else isset wrong, it should have worked.
 

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    Windows 11 ProIntel Ultra 9 288V32 GB LPDDR5X 8533
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    Laptop
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    Dell 16 Plus
    OS
    Windows 11 Pro
    CPU
    Intel Ultra 9 288V
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    32 GB LPDDR5X 8533
    Monitor(s) Displays
    16" Mini-LED HDR600 Touch 90 Hz
    Screen Resolution
    2560X1600
    Hard Drives
    1 TB NVME
I decided to try a different route and just used the Easy Overclock to increase it 5%. This did increase the CPU frequency to ~ 3570 and the RAM frequency to ~ 700, but that is still far short of the RAM speed desired. I will probably try higher overclocks in that fashion in steps to see what happens. Right now, I'm running the stability test in AOD, before trying anything else.

EDIT: Another factor that you might be able to help with is the fact that when making changes such as this, the computer shuts down, before restarting, and then flashes every light on the front of the case, while making a loud racket that sounds like the floppy drive. The only thing that I found in the BIOS was to just disable the floppy, which I did, but even then it continues to make the floppy racket on reboot, and the floppy LED lights up. I remember in my old motherboards BIOS, that there was not only a setting to disable the floppy, but also the floppy controller, yet I didn't see the latter. Does it exist?
 

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At a glance

W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCEPhenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w...2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsai...EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
DIY
OS
W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
CPU
Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
Motherboard
ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
Memory
2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Sound Card
Asus Xonar D2X/**Xonar D1
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H, Dell E152FPc /**LG M237-WD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 & 1024x768/**1980x1080
Hard Drives
WDC 2TB, 1.5TB, 1TB, 500GB,Seagate 500GB , Maxtor 80GB /**500GB Seagate & WDC 1TB Black
PSU
CM RS600 w/ APC BX1000G/**Antec 500 TP w/ APC BX1000
Case
HAF922/**Antec 1040IIB
Cooling
3x200mm, 1x140 and 1x120mm/**5x80mm fans
Keyboard
Logitech Media USB/**Saitek Eclipse
Mouse
Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
Internet Speed
3.3Mbps
Other Info
SB 560 5.1 w/ Sennheiser RS140/**Creative T20 speakers, Dvico FusionHDTV7 Gold RT, Cisco E3000, HP 5510V AIO, Linksys E3000, Belkin F5U237 hub and **F5D8055 adapter
(** = 2nd rig)
I had decided to stop the AOD Stability test early, to experiment some more, but when AOD closed, it caused an 0x101 BSOD. When I rebooted, it again hung while the System Tray icons were appearing. The next boot seemed normal, and I took a game break. After playing Halo for some time, the entire system froze again during the game. I then reset the overclock to default, and it booted okay. I then Googled 0x101 and from the sound of it, the possibilties covers the gambit. Curiously, I found an MS article that said that it was probably caused by a clocking problem between multiple processors, but since I only have one, that seems unlikely.

I'm beginning to believe that one of my major components is faulty, but do not know how to pinpoint which. I tend to least suspect the RAM, since it did pass 6 Memtest86 runs. That leaves either the motherboard or CPU, but I see just about as many things pointing at either of them.
 

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W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCEPhenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w...2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsai...EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
DIY
OS
W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
CPU
Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
Motherboard
ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
Memory
2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Sound Card
Asus Xonar D2X/**Xonar D1
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H, Dell E152FPc /**LG M237-WD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 & 1024x768/**1980x1080
Hard Drives
WDC 2TB, 1.5TB, 1TB, 500GB,Seagate 500GB , Maxtor 80GB /**500GB Seagate & WDC 1TB Black
PSU
CM RS600 w/ APC BX1000G/**Antec 500 TP w/ APC BX1000
Case
HAF922/**Antec 1040IIB
Cooling
3x200mm, 1x140 and 1x120mm/**5x80mm fans
Keyboard
Logitech Media USB/**Saitek Eclipse
Mouse
Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
Internet Speed
3.3Mbps
Other Info
SB 560 5.1 w/ Sennheiser RS140/**Creative T20 speakers, Dvico FusionHDTV7 Gold RT, Cisco E3000, HP 5510V AIO, Linksys E3000, Belkin F5U237 hub and **F5D8055 adapter
(** = 2nd rig)
I decided to try a different route and just used the Easy Overclock to increase it 5%. This did increase the CPU frequency to ~ 3570 and the RAM frequency to ~ 700,
Yes, with a 3400Mhz stock clock (3400 x 1.05) is 3570. And the stock 1333Mhz RAM (1333Mhz /2 = 666.5. 666.5 x 1.05) is 700mhz. So you are making progress.

but that is still far short of the RAM speed desired.
Well, 1400Mhz versus 1600Mhz....isn't really that big of a difference. It's not the 14.28% improvement that 200Mhz/1400Mhz would seem to indicate. In actual day to day usage, you are probably looking at 0.5% to a 1.0% performance difference.

EDIT: Another factor that you might be able to help with is the fact that when making changes such as this, the computer shuts down, before restarting, and then flashes every light on the front of the case, while making a loud racket that sounds like the floppy drive.
Shutting down and flashing lights is normal, but I've never heard sounds similar to a floppy drive grinding away when changing BIOS settings. That seems very odd to me.

I remember in my old motherboards BIOS, that there was not only a setting to disable the floppy, but also the floppy controller, yet I didn't see the latter. Does it exist?
Yeah, usually you can usually disable the floppy drive entirely. I almost universally do that as I haven't had a floppy drive installed in a machine in years.
 

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Windows 7 Ultimate x64Intel Q9550 2.83Ghz OC'd to 3.40Ghz8GB G.Skill PI DDR2-800, 4-4-4-12 timingsEVGA 1280MB Nvidia GeForce GTX570
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self-Built in July 2009
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
Intel Q9550 2.83Ghz OC'd to 3.40Ghz
Motherboard
Gigabyte GA-EP45-UD3R rev. 1.1, F12 BIOS
Memory
8GB G.Skill PI DDR2-800, 4-4-4-12 timings
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA 1280MB Nvidia GeForce GTX570
Sound Card
Realtek ALC899A 8 channel onboard audio
Monitor(s) Displays
23" Acer x233H
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Intel X25-M 80GB Gen 2 SSD
Western Digital 1TB Caviar Black, 32MB cache. WD1001FALS
PSU
Corsair 620HX modular
Case
Antec P182
Cooling
stock
Keyboard
ABS M1 Mechanical
Mouse
Logitech G9 Laser Mouse
Internet Speed
15/2 cable modem
Other Info
Windows and Linux enthusiast. Logitech G35 Headset.
I agree with pparks1, Almost anytime you change the clock speed the computer has to shut completey down to readjust. But, just like him, I don't know what would be making noise. It has to be some component in the computer because I don't know of anything in the motherboard that would make noise.

I also agree that the difference in clock speed would probably make very little if any noticable difference. You can gain about as much by running it at 1333 and lowering the timings slightly. Instead of 7-7-7 try thr ram at 1333 6-7-6. If it would run like that, it would be about the same as 1600.
 

My Computers My Computers

  • At a glance

    Windows 11 ProRyzen 9 5900X32GB G Skill DDR4-3600EVGA RTX 3080 FTW 3 Ultra
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
    ALWAYS UNDER CONSTRUCTION
    OS
    Windows 11 Pro
    CPU
    Ryzen 9 5900X
    Motherboard
    Asus X570 Crosshair Viii Hero
    Memory
    32GB G Skill DDR4-3600
    Graphics Card(s)
    EVGA RTX 3080 FTW 3 Ultra
    Sound Card
    On Board/Sennheiser PC37X Headset
    Monitor(s) Displays
    3 X Asus 27"
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    2 X 1 TB NVME drives
    PSU
    EVGA 850
    Case
    Phanteks Eclipse P400A
    Cooling
    EVGA 280 AIO
    Keyboard
    Logitech G510s/ Logitech G13
    Mouse
    Logitech G502
    Internet Speed
    24/1
    Antivirus
    ESET/MBAM Pro/SAS Pro
    Browser
    Chrome/ Firefox/ Edge
  • At a glance

    Windows 11 ProIntel Ultra 9 288V32 GB LPDDR5X 8533
    Computer type
    Laptop
    System Manufacturer/Model Number
    Dell 16 Plus
    OS
    Windows 11 Pro
    CPU
    Intel Ultra 9 288V
    Memory
    32 GB LPDDR5X 8533
    Monitor(s) Displays
    16" Mini-LED HDR600 Touch 90 Hz
    Screen Resolution
    2560X1600
    Hard Drives
    1 TB NVME
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