Solved Random BSOD's BCCode 0x124

[Trioxis]

Hi,

I have been experiencing random reboots/BSOD's today with the error code 0x124 pointing to ntoskrnl.exe. So far I've had 3 of these incidents today. The BSOD seems to occur irregularly when gaming, although the first crash today was when trying to run Steam. Besides that the crashes don't appear to be happening when I'm browsing the internet or using programs which aren't very demanding on the CPU. I've had similar crashes/random reboots before on rare occasions, never with this frequency.

So far I've tried updating some of my drivers and I've checked my rig to make sure everything is plugged in correctly, no loose wires, etc. I have also downloaded HWMonitor to check the temperatures, but that doesn't seem to be the problem either.

Specs:
OS: Windows 7 Professional x64
CPU: Intel Core2Duo E8400 @ 3Ghz
MoBo: ASUS P5K Pro
Video Card: Sapphire HD6950 2GB
RAM: 6GB (I believe these are 2x 2GB and 2x 1GB sticks from Kingston)
HDD: Samsung HD321KJ 320GB (Note: the HDD is plugged into a Promise SATA TX2plus controller which I bought after the controller on my motherboard somehow broke.)

The age of the hardware varies a lot, the video card is around 6 months old while everything else probably is somewhere around 3 and a half to 4 years old. Originally I had either XP or Vista running on this machine, but I've since upgraded to Windows 7 (full retail copy). The current install is probably between 1 and a half and 2 years old.

I hope I've provided all the necessary information regarding to this problem. If anything is still missing or unclear feel free to point it out.

 

[zigzag3143]

Several issues which combined may be throwing the 124. With only one DMP file it is really hard to say.


1-Related to ulsata2.sys SATAII150 Series Windows Drivers from Promise Technology, Inc. Your driver is from 2007 and needs to be updated or remove.

2-You have the remnants of an AVG install that are loading and causing some havoc.

After you remedy those we can start to look for the underlying hardware issue. Here are some things to try.


Stop 0x124 is a hardware error

If you are overclocking try resetting your processor to standard settings and see if that helps.

If you continue to get BSOD here are some more things you may want to consider.

This is usually heat related, defective hardware, memory or even processor though it is"possible" that it is driver related (rare).

Stop 0x124 - what it means and what to try
Synopsis:

A "stop 0x124" is fundamentally different to many other types of bluescreens because it stems from a hardware complaint.

Stop 0x124 minidumps contain very little practical information, and it is therefore necessary to approach the problem as a case of hardware in an unknown state of distress.


Generic "Stop 0x124" Troubleshooting Strategy:

1) Ensure that none of the hardware components are overclocked. Hardware that is driven beyond its design specifications - by overclocking - can malfunction in unpredictable ways.


2) Ensure that the machine is adequately cooled.
If there is any doubt, open up the side of the PC case (be mindful of any relevant warranty conditions!) and point a mains fan squarely at the motherboard. That will rule out most (lack of) cooling issues.


3) Update all hardware-related drivers: video, sound, RAID (if any), NIC... anything that interacts with a piece of hardware.
It is good practice to run the latest drivers anyway.


4) Update the motherboard BIOS according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Their website should provide detailed instructions as to the brand and model-specific procedure.


5) Rarely, bugs in the OS may cause "false positive" 0x124 events where the hardware wasn't complaining but Windows thought otherwise (because of the bug).
At the time of writing, Windows 7 is not known to suffer from any such defects, but it is nevertheless important to always keep Windows itself updated.

6) Attempt to (stress) test those hardware components which can be put through their paces artificially.
The most obvious examples are the RAM and HDD(s).
For the RAM, use the in-built memory diagnostics (run MDSCHED) or the 3rd-party memtest86 utility to run many hours worth of testing.
For hard drives, check whether CHKDSK /R finds any problems on the drive(s), notably "bad sectors".
Unreliable RAM, in particular, is deadly as far as software is concerned, and anything other than a 100% clear memory test result is cause for concern. Unfortunately, even a 100% clear result from the diagnostics utilities does not guarantee that the RAM is free from defects - only that none were encountered during the test passes.

7) As the last of the non-invasive troubleshooting steps, perform a "vanilla" reinstallation of Windows: just the OS itself without any additional applications, games, utilities, updates, or new drivers - NOTHING AT ALL that is not sourced from the Windows 7 disc.
Should that fail to mitigate the 0x124 problem, jump to the next steps.
If you run the "vanilla" installation long enough to convince yourself that not a single 0x124 crash has occurred, start installing updates and applications slowly, always pausing between successive additions long enough to get a feel for whether the machine is still free from 0x124 crashes.
Should the crashing resume, obviously the very last software addition(s) may be somehow linked to the root cause.
If stop 0x124 errors persist despite the steps above, and the harware is under warranty, consider returning it and requesting a replacement which does not suffer periodic MCE events.
Be aware that attempting the subsequent harware troubleshooting steps may, in some cases, void your warranty:

8) Clean and carefully remove any dust from the inside of the machine.
Reseat all connectors and memory modules.
Use a can of compressed air to clean out the RAM DIMM sockets as much as possible.

9) If all else fails, start removing items of hardware one-by-one in the hope that the culprit is something non-essential which can be removed.
Obviously, this type of testing is a lot easier if you've got access to equivalent components in order to perform swaps.

Should you find yourself in the situation of having performed all of the steps above without a resolution of the symptom, unfortunately the most likely reason is because the error message is literally correct - something is fundamentally wrong with the machine's hardware.

http://www.sevenforums.com/crash-lockup-debug-how/35349-stop-0x124-what-means-what-try.html

 

[Trioxis]

Several issues which combined may be throwing the 124. With only one DMP file it is really hard to say.


1-Related to ulsata2.sys SATAII150 Series Windows Drivers from Promise Technology, Inc. Your driver is from 2007 and needs to be updated or remove.

Unfortunately, this driver is needed for windows to be able to see my HDD (or so I've read) and there is no newer version available. The only way to get rid of this is to get myself a new motherboard which would mean a whole new system.

2-You have the remnants of an AVG install that are loading and causing some havoc.

I'm actually running AVG right now. Would you recommend removing the current install as well and start over clean?

If you are overclocking try resetting your processor to standard settings and see if that helps.

I'm currently not overclocking so that shouldn't be an issue.

This is usually heat related, defective hardware, memory or even processor though it is"possible" that it is driver related (rare).

My first thought was that it's a heat related issue, but that doesn't seem to make any sense. It's been some time since the last BSOD now, but there doesn't seem to be any hint of anything overheating at the moment. Note however that I haven't actually been running any games since the last crash.

Before I had posted this thread I had another BSOD, but I hadn't rerun the app. I've done that now so I will include the output in this post with an updated perfmon report.

 

[zigzag3143]

1-You can re-install the driver in compatibility mode.

To install an older driver in win 7 you need to install it in compatibility mode.


To install in compatibility mode right click the installer, go to properties, then compatibility. Choose the appropriate OS


http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/316-compatibility-mode.html?ltr=C


2-Yes I would use AVG's removal tool, then do a clean re-install.

Download tools and utilities | AVG Worldwide


3-RE: heat. I would download cpu-z and gpu-z (both free) to keep an eye on the temps.

 

[Trioxis]

So, after I thought it had been solved it seems the problem has come back.. or has it?

I've removed the side panel to rule out the possibility of it being a heat problem and surprise my system was running ok agian. I have been running a few games for some time and it seemed to be working, so I figured heat was the problem all along.

Having come home today everything went fine till my pc crashed again. Or so it seemed. Even though my screens went blank I was watching a movie at the time and the sound confirmed it was still running. Some of the fans (not sure which ones) started blowing real hard for a moment and then went back to their normal working state. I couldn't get my screens to work again without restarting my pc though.

I've checked my event log for errors and saw that, at the time my screens went blank, I had a list of yukonw7 errors. After some searching I've read it could be related to the Marvell Yukon network connection so I've updated the driver for that. Searching some more I also saw a list of Schannel errors which coincide with one of my crashes last week, which might have been the same thing as I had today. At that time I couldn't tell because I had nothing running with sound.

I've had this kind of thing happend to me before when I had my previous video card, but it never happened more than once in a row and only very rarely. It also never led to other errors or BSOD's (that I know of).

Could this be my video card becoming too hot and shutting itself off, or could it perhaps be a power issue?

 

[writhziden]

Could be the video card or power supply. The two most difficult pieces of hardware to debug are the motherboard and power supply because they often cause other hardware to be blamed and the symptoms are typically very sporadic.

I would suggest checking your graphics card temperatures first. Run some hardware checks.

• If you are overclocking any hardware, please stop.
  
  
• Monitor temperatures during the following tests.
  
  Use the following programs to monitor the temperatures.​
  • Real Temp is a good CPU temperature monitor.
  • Speccy - System Information - Free Download will monitor all hardware temperatures.
  • HWiNFO, HWiNFO32 & HWiNFO64 - Hardware Information and Analysis Tools can be inaccurate for CPU temperatures, but is a good program for GPU temperature monitoring.
  • Use FurMark: VGA Stress Test, Graphics Card and GPU Stability Test, Burn-in Test, OpenGL Benchmark and GPU Temperature | oZone3D.Net to test the graphics card GPU. Let it run until the GPU temperatures even out or until the GPU temperatures reach a dangerous level (you can find the max temperature for your card on either the nVidia or AMD sites; if you are not sure, ask us). The goal is to get a steady temperature, find out if the GPU is overheating, or to see if there are any artifacts present in the test itself: look for strange pixelated patterns on the screen or colors that do not look like they belong. Then use the |MG| Video Memory Stress Test 1.7.116 Download to test your graphics card memory. Let the memory test run for at least seven passes; the more the better.
    
    
  • Run http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/100352-hardware-stress-test-prime95.html to determine any hardware problems. Run all three tests for a few hours each. If you get errors, stop the test and post back here.
    
    
  • Follow the steps for doing CPU stress test using IntelBurnTest
  
  
• Run the boot version of Memtest86+ paying close attention to Parts 2 and 3 of the tutorial. Also, in case Memtest86+ misses anything and comes up with no errors, run the extended version of the Windows Memory Diagnostics Tool for at least five passes. These you may want to run overnight since they take a long time to complete (run them an hour before bed each of the next two nights and check before going to sleep that they are still running).
  
  
     Warning

  Before you proceed with the following, answer these two questions: Are you still under warranty? Does your warranty allow you to open up the machine to check hardware? If you are unsure of the answers to these questions, contact your system manufacturer. :warn:WARNING: The steps that follow can void your warranty!!!
  
  
  For Part 3: If You Have Errors: If you swap any memory components, follow these steps for ESD safety:
  1. Shut down and turn off your computer.
  2. Unplug all power supplies to the computer (AC Power then battery for laptops, AC power for desktops)
  3. Hold down the power button for 30 seconds to close the circuit and ensure all power drains from components.
  4. Make sure you are grounded by using proper grounding techniques, i.e. work on an anti-static workbench, anti-static desk, or an anti-static pad. Hold something metallic while touching it to the anti-static surface, or use an anti-static wristband to attach to the anti-static material while working. If you do not have an anti-static workbench, desk, or pad, you can use your computer tower/case by finding a metal hold in it, such as a drive bay.
  Once these steps have been followed, it is safe to remove and replace components within your computer.

 

[Trioxis]

I did the FurMark test at 1920x1080, anti-aliasing off, using HWMonitor and HWiNFO64 to monitor the temps. My GPU was running stable at around 70c before approx halfway through my screens went blank again. A quick search gives a max temp of 95c for this card, so it would appear to be well within limits.

After my screens went blank I had a hard time restarting the pc, so I had to shut off the system completely before booting again.

I have yet to do the GPU memory test and prime95.

 

[writhziden]

What do you consider halfway through? How long did it run before the screens went black (approximately)?

I agree, temperatures look good. Something else is at work here. Could be the graphics card is failing, or it could be your PSU cannot handle the load. If you have the ability to do so, swap them for other components with similar ratings.

As you add and remove hardware, follow these steps for ESD safety:

1. Shut down and turn off your computer.
2. Unplug all power supplies to the computer (AC Power then battery for laptops, AC power for desktops)
3. Hold down the power button for 30 seconds to close the circuit and ensure all power drains from components.
4. Make sure you are grounded by using proper grounding techniques, i.e. work on an anti-static workbench, anti-static desk, or an anti-static pad. Hold something metallic while touching it to the anti-static surface, or use an anti-static wristband to attach to the anti-static material while working. If you do not have an anti-static workbench, desk, or pad, you can use your computer tower/case by finding a metal hold in it, such as a drive bay.

Once these steps have been followed, it is safe to remove and replace components within your computer.

 

[Trioxis]

What do you consider halfway through? How long did it run before the screens went black (approximately)?

I agree, temperatures look good. Something else is at work here. Could be the graphics card is failing, or it could be your PSU cannot handle the load. If you have the ability to do so, swap them for other components with similar ratings.

As you add and remove hardware, follow these steps for ESD safety:

1. Shut down and turn off your computer.
2. Unplug all power supplies to the computer (AC Power then battery for laptops, AC power for desktops)
3. Hold down the power button for 30 seconds to close the circuit and ensure all power drains from components.
4. Make sure you are grounded by using proper grounding techniques, i.e. work on an anti-static workbench, anti-static desk, or an anti-static pad. Hold something metallic while touching it to the anti-static surface, or use an anti-static wristband to attach to the anti-static material while working. If you do not have an anti-static workbench, desk, or pad, you can use your computer tower/case by finding a metal hold in it, such as a drive bay.

Once these steps have been followed, it is safe to remove and replace components within your computer.

I opted to run the 15 minute burn-in test, my screens went blank after approx 8 or 9 minutes. The temps had been doing a steady 70c and no artifacts were seen.

I currently have an Enermax 500W PSU, which is the minimum recommended for this video card. It's a few years old by now so it could be due a replacement anyway.

I don't have a replacement PSU at the moment and I don't think I have the previous video card laying around. One thing I could do is to put my current card in his pc. I think in terms of specs his machine is largely similar, although I'm not sure about his PSU. It could be the same one as I have but I'm not sure without checking.

 

[writhziden]

Have you tried running without the Catalyst software? I just had someone else with a similar problem who found a link showing that Catalyst Control Center causes these types of problems with FurMark and the card in general on some systems. See post #48 of BSoD when screen saver trying to start.

 

[Trioxis]

Have you tried running without the Catalyst software? I just had someone else with a similar problem who found a link showing that Catalyst Control Center causes these types of problems with FurMark and the card in general on some systems. See post #48 of BSoD when screen saver trying to start.

Uninstalled the Catalyst software and ran FurMark again. This time it went on for 10 minutes or so before my screens went blank again. Apparently I had another BSOD (0x124) but I never got to see the actual screen.

 

[writhziden]

In that case, I would definitely recommend that you look into testing your graphics card in the other system. Find out whether it is the card or the PSU so you know what to replace.

 

[Trioxis]

In that case, I would definitely recommend that you look into testing your graphics card in the other system. Find out whether it is the card or the PSU so you know what to replace.

So I just tested my card in my father's system. He has an 800W PSU and the same graphics card as I have. Ran FurMark twice without any problems, steady temperatures and no artifacts. However, when I put my card back into my own system I ran FurMark on my own system just to be sure and to my surprise it passed. No blank screens or BSOD's.

I'm not sure what to think anymore. I'm quite confident the GPU is just fine judging from the test results.

 

[writhziden]

May have been a poorly seated card or dust got into the contacts and was interfering with the card and motherboard interface. Monitor it for a few days and report back how the system responds.

 

[Trioxis]

My system has been working fine until today when the same problem reared it's head again. I'm going to invest in a new PSU and see if that is going to fix the problem.

Edit: I've also noticed that my system seems to be more prone to crashing when I'm playing Civ 5. I've been playing Unreal Tournament 3 and other games with far less frequent crashes or any at all.

 

[writhziden]

Alright, keep us updated whether the PSU resolves the problem.

Also, since it was fine for a few weeks, have you made any changes recently that might have brought the problem back?

 

[Trioxis]

Alright, keep us updated whether the PSU resolves the problem.

Also, since it was fine for a few weeks, have you made any changes recently that might have brought the problem back?

When my system started acting up again I hadn't changed any changes in the hardware or software, other than the regular windows updates, etc.

I've been away all week and when I got back my problem became more serious as the system wouldn't boot into windows anymore. My HDD made a clicking sound halfway booting, as if it was stuck finding something. I've decided to replace most of my system as it was becoming too unstable. Besides a new PSU (700W) I've also bought a new motherboard and cpu, new RAM modules and a new dvd drive. I didn't buy a new HDD as further testing showed that it wasn't broken.

Suffice it to say I can't really say for sure what caused the problem as I've replaced nearly everything. My best guess is a failing motherboard. The good news is that it's working fine now. I don't think I'll be having the same problem again anytime soon. *knocks on wood*

Anyway, I wanted to thank you for your help in trying to solve this problem.

 

[writhziden]

Glad to see the problem solved! Nice work getting it resolved and replacing components!!