Solved Safety Remove a HDD (SATA)

skew

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In the icon tray, there is an icon for safety removing hardware and eject media. I'm using two HDDs. One where Windows 7 is installed and another where are some data are placed. By clicking on the icon, a context menu appears where my two HDDs are listed. If I click on the HDD where just my data are placed, I get an error message:

This device is currently in use. Close any programs or windows that might be using the device, and then try again.
There aren't any applications opened which are currently in use or accessing the drive. Also after restarting my computer and try it again, the error message appears.

The reason why I want to eject the device is that working with the HHD, the performance decreased. There must be a performance issue with Windows and the device. Why this doesn't work and is there a possibility to plug out the HDD without manually removing the cable?
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 64bit

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
acer aspire 5935g
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium x64 SP1
CPU
intel(R)core(TM)2 duo CPU T6600 @ 2.20GHz
Motherboard
intel gm45/gm47 revision 07
Memory
3 gb ddr3
Graphics Card(s)
ati radeon hd4570/512mb
Monitor(s) Displays
lop156wh2-tle1 15.3 flat
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1366x768
Hard Drives
OCZ-Agility3 60gig ssd
320gig external hdd
500gig external hdd
Mouse
Optical
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30Mbps Down/30Mbps Up
Is this an internal HDD or an external? Internal HDDs don't need to be ejected, just power down the computer and disconnect the hdd.

As far as the message, when I run into it occasionally when attempting to eject an external USB drive, I ensure that no open applications are referencing the drive and make sure there's no current disk activity then pull the cable. I have never had a problem from doing this.

You can also access the device Properties in Device Manager and on the Policies tab you can set "Quick Removal" which disables write caching on the drive which makes the "Safely Eject..." dialog irrelevant.
 

My Computer

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Home Built desktop, Dell G15 5511 Gaming laptop,MS Surface Pro 7 tablet
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W10 Pro desktop, W11 laptop, W11 Pro tablet (all 64-bit)
CPU
3.7Ghz 8700K i7, i7-11800H, i7-1065G7
Motherboard
ASUS TUF Z370-Pro Gaming in desktop
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16G desktop, 16G laptop, 4G tablet
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AMD Radeon RX580, RTX 3060, Intel Iris Plus
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High Definition Audio (Built-in to mobo)
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung U32J59 32" (2x), 15.6", 12"
Screen Resolution
3840x2160, 3840x2160, 1920x1080, 2160x1440
Hard Drives
500G SSD for OS; 2T, 10T & 15T HDDs for Data on Desktop, 1TB SSD laptop, 128G SSD tablet.
PSU
Corsair CX 750M
Case
Antec 100
Cooling
CM 212+
Keyboard
IBM Model M - used continuously since 1986
Mouse
Microsoft Pro IntelliMouse
Internet Speed
400M down 8M up
Antivirus
Windows Defender
Browser
FireFox
Other Info
Built my first computer (8Mhz 8088cpu, 640K RAM, 20MB HDD, 2 360K floppy drives) in 1985 and have been building them for myself, relatives and friends ever since.
Strollin's comments 100% wrong

I've run across the street with my eyes closed 10 times and I'm still alive. UNLESS YOU SAFELY REMOVE A SATA DRIVE, THE EXACT SAME AS A USB DRIVE, YOU ARE RISKING DATA LOSS / CORRUPTION.

Anyone who tells you anything else is WRONG. Think about it - you are pulling the plug and the computer may be writing to the drive. Poof - data corruption. Just because the disk activity light isn't on when you reach to pull the cable does not mean while you are unplugging it, it didn't start to write something.

Further there is no functional difference between SATA and ESATA. The computer doesn't have a spy camera to see if the disk is internal or external, so anyone saying "it is this way for internal disks" and another way for external doesn't know what they are talking about either. An external SATA disk is the EXACT same as an internal sata disk, it just happens to be located inside the computer case. If you wrapped your external drive in a blanket, would that make it internal? Because SATA organization found that the plug for internal sata was too flimsy for external use, there is a recommended (different) cable for external - that is it.

The Windows policies should read: click here and device will show up in Safely Remove which must be used. Click here and device will NOT show up in Safely Remove and CANNOT be safely removed without shutting down the system.

PERIOD.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Hand Build
OS
Windows 7 x64
CPU
Intel i7
Motherboard
ASUS P6X58DE
Memory
12 GB DDR3
Monitor(s) Displays
LG 3000H
Strollin's comments 100% wrong
I've run across the street with my eyes closed 10 times and I'm still alive. UNLESS YOU SAFELY REMOVE A SATA DRIVE, THE EXACT SAME AS A USB DRIVE, YOU ARE RISKING DATA LOSS / CORRUPTION.

Anyone who tells you anything else is WRONG. Think about it - you are pulling the plug and the computer may be writing to the drive. Poof - data corruption. Just because the disk activity light isn't on when you reach to pull the cable does not mean while you are unplugging it, it didn't start to write something.

Further there is no functional difference between SATA and ESATA. The computer doesn't have a spy camera to see if the disk is internal or external, so anyone saying "it is this way for internal disks" and another way for external doesn't know what they are talking about either. An external SATA disk is the EXACT same as an internal sata disk, it just happens to be located inside the computer case. If you wrapped your external drive in a blanket, would that make it internal? Because SATA organization found that the plug for internal sata was too flimsy for external use, there is a recommended (different) cable for external - that is it.

The Windows policies should read: click here and device will show up in Safely Remove which must be used. Click here and device will NOT show up in Safely Remove and CANNOT be safely removed without shutting down the system.

PERIOD.
Can you reference any particular line in my post that was wrong? I doubt it since everything I said was 120% correct. I did not suggest unplugging a SATA drive without precautions, in fact what I said was "Internal HDDs don't need to be ejected, just power down the computer and disconnect the hdd." I did not advocate (nor would I) that you unplug a running internal SATA drive, not sure how you made the assumption that I said anything else. Please read a little more carefully next time, especially when replying to old posts from 2011!
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built desktop, Dell G15 5511 Gaming laptop,MS Surface Pro 7 tablet
OS
W10 Pro desktop, W11 laptop, W11 Pro tablet (all 64-bit)
CPU
3.7Ghz 8700K i7, i7-11800H, i7-1065G7
Motherboard
ASUS TUF Z370-Pro Gaming in desktop
Memory
16G desktop, 16G laptop, 4G tablet
Graphics Card(s)
AMD Radeon RX580, RTX 3060, Intel Iris Plus
Sound Card
High Definition Audio (Built-in to mobo)
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung U32J59 32" (2x), 15.6", 12"
Screen Resolution
3840x2160, 3840x2160, 1920x1080, 2160x1440
Hard Drives
500G SSD for OS; 2T, 10T & 15T HDDs for Data on Desktop, 1TB SSD laptop, 128G SSD tablet.
PSU
Corsair CX 750M
Case
Antec 100
Cooling
CM 212+
Keyboard
IBM Model M - used continuously since 1986
Mouse
Microsoft Pro IntelliMouse
Internet Speed
400M down 8M up
Antivirus
Windows Defender
Browser
FireFox
Other Info
Built my first computer (8Mhz 8088cpu, 640K RAM, 20MB HDD, 2 360K floppy drives) in 1985 and have been building them for myself, relatives and friends ever since.
I've run across the street with my eyes closed 10 times and I'm still alive. UNLESS YOU SAFELY REMOVE A SATA DRIVE, THE EXACT SAME AS A USB DRIVE, YOU ARE RISKING DATA LOSS / CORRUPTION.

Anyone who tells you anything else is WRONG. Think about it - you are pulling the plug and the computer may be writing to the drive. Poof - data corruption. Just because the disk activity light isn't on when you reach to pull the cable does not mean while you are unplugging it, it didn't start to write something.

Further there is no functional difference between SATA and ESATA. The computer doesn't have a spy camera to see if the disk is internal or external, so anyone saying "it is this way for internal disks" and another way for external doesn't know what they are talking about either. An external SATA disk is the EXACT same as an internal sata disk, it just happens to be located inside the computer case. If you wrapped your external drive in a blanket, would that make it internal? Because SATA organization found that the plug for internal sata was too flimsy for external use, there is a recommended (different) cable for external - that is it.

The Windows policies should read: click here and device will show up in Safely Remove which must be used. Click here and device will NOT show up in Safely Remove and CANNOT be safely removed without shutting down the system.

PERIOD.

External Usb drive have adaptor for the power, when the hdd is internal its not the same way.
Buisness company dont buy hotswap equipment for nothing

Please read this
http://www.ti.com/lit/ml/slup119/slup119.pdf
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Windows 7 64 BIT
CPU
I7 950
Motherboard
Rampage Formula 3
Memory
G.Skill 1333 FSB 3x2Gb
Graphics Card(s)
Radeon HD series 6xxx
Sound Card
Onbard Realtek by mobo
Monitor(s) Displays
G90F VIEWSONIC
Screen Resolution
1280*1024
Hard Drives
SSD agility 4 256 Gb
HDD 1.5 Tb
HDD 1 Tb
PSU
Corsair 625 Watt approx
Case
FULL TOWER THERMALTAKE
Cooling
HIGH AIR FLOW
Keyboard
HP OEM lol
Mouse
Logitech OEM
Internet Speed
CABLE 10mb
Antivirus
Vmware
Hotswap equipment is just a way to swap HDDs without risk of damaging the HDD's own connectors (not designed for a lot of plugging-unplugging).
Power corruption happens when the device is yanked away from the data connection while there was still data being written. But the drive itself (the hardware) will be fine regardless.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
custom built
OS
Win 7 Pro 64-bit 7601
CPU
AMD Phenom 9650 QuadCore, revision DR-B3
Motherboard
ASUS M4A78
Memory
5 GB yes I run 2x 2GB and 1x 1GB, different brand, spank me.
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA GeForce 9800 GT 512 Mb, unknown manufacturer.
Sound Card
Crappy Realtek Integrated Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Fujitsu Siemens P19-3P
Screen Resolution
1280 x 1024 x 32 bits @ 60 Hz Oh yeah, 4:3 rocks!
Hard Drives
(1) MAXTOR S TM3320613AS SATA Disk Device (2) STM35004 18AS SATA Disk Device (3) TOSHIBA USB 2.5"-HDD
PSU
whatever, around 450w
Case
Scavenged from old company PC, 10+ years old
Cooling
CPU fan, GPU fan, case fan, nothing fancy
Keyboard
Microsoft, PS/2, white.
Mouse
Optical, logitec.
Internet Speed
effective max speeds: 70-ish kB/s down 30-ish kB/s up
Antivirus
Avira, free edition.
Browser
Firefox with FXChrome to make it look like Google Chrome :P
Other Info
Was discarded by previous owner due to "horrible performance".
Was running Win Xp from a IDE drive. Yeah. Was a pain.
SATA II drive and Win7 and it zips away! Yay!
Stand by what I said

You (not I) said that you have "pull the cable". I'm not disputing that you've pulled the cable. I'm sure you have. And if you don't give a damned about your data, good for you. Pulling a cable while data is being transferred, unless you have a magical disk that can continue to transfer wirelessly, will cause data corruption. So you've been lucky - congrats. I stand by what I and MS say - unless you tell the OS that it should flush and cease transferring data to the disk, data transfer can be occurring and if you pull the plug at that time.............

Suppose you say "hey I haven't copied any data to that disk for at least 5 minutes so it should be safe". Well there are several background tasks that MAY be accessing your disk. May be writing to the disk. So you check the disk activity light - it is not on. You reach out and start to (your words) "pull the cable". Your hand touches the cable and you start to pull. But you haven't told the OS not to use the disk. As you start pulling, the OS starts writing. Tada - data corruption. The POLICIES MINIMIZES the risk for those that like gambling with their data. All I said was that you like to gamble with your data and others might not realize this and start losing data.

You also said (not me) that setting the Policy for Quick Removal means the Safely Remove is irrelevant. So you tell the OS not to write cache. So how do you know when the OS is finished writing to the disk? How do you know that some background task (see above) won't start writing to the disk at the same time that you reach out to unplug the disk? You don't, nor does the OS. To safely remove a SATA disk, the OS MUST be told, otherwise you risk corruption. You may get lucky sometimes, but eventually you will get caught. Its like taking backups. No one likes to until they need to restore.

YOU MUST TELL THE OS USING SOME METHOD TO STOP WRITING TO THE DISK BEFORE REMOVING IT. POLICY Quick Removal minimizes the risk - it does not eliminate it. Take the extra 3 seconds to SAFELY REMOVE the disk.

Pitch001 - read what I wrote. We are talking about DATA CORRUPTION. Do you think Windows knows if you have internal or external power? Whether the adapter is blue or red? Duh!!! The OS does not know if the disk is internal or external. Regarding data loss, there is NO DIFFERENCE between internal and external. There is no camera inside your PC to tell the OS. There is no signal that a disk sends saying it is internal or external. The cable WAS exactly the same and often still is - some external sata disk's use a newer more robust external sata cable, but again, the PC doesn't have a camera to report this, so the OS doesn't know. Not getting into a flaming war - this thread was about data corruption, data loss and safely removing your disk. SATA disks were from day 1 designed to safely allow unplugging them (hot swap) without removing the power, without causing electrical sparks and physical destruction of the disk and maybe the mainboard due to plug and electrical specs. So you won't destroy your disk/mainboard by unplugging while there is power. This has NOTHING to do with this thread, so please try to stay on topic. This is about after NOT destroying your disk by sparks, whether the data on the disk is safe.

Too many people say either "just pull it" or "wait 1 minute after using the disk then just pull it" or "change the Policy for Quick Removal and then just pull it". This is not safe and it says so in the MS Policy settings.

Strollin - maybe I was too harsh, but your implication was that you can safely just yank the cable. You can't. You can yank it.................but.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Hand Build
OS
Windows 7 x64
CPU
Intel i7
Motherboard
ASUS P6X58DE
Memory
12 GB DDR3
Monitor(s) Displays
LG 3000H
Again, I said POWER DOWN THE COMPUTER and remove the drive.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built desktop, Dell G15 5511 Gaming laptop,MS Surface Pro 7 tablet
OS
W10 Pro desktop, W11 laptop, W11 Pro tablet (all 64-bit)
CPU
3.7Ghz 8700K i7, i7-11800H, i7-1065G7
Motherboard
ASUS TUF Z370-Pro Gaming in desktop
Memory
16G desktop, 16G laptop, 4G tablet
Graphics Card(s)
AMD Radeon RX580, RTX 3060, Intel Iris Plus
Sound Card
High Definition Audio (Built-in to mobo)
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung U32J59 32" (2x), 15.6", 12"
Screen Resolution
3840x2160, 3840x2160, 1920x1080, 2160x1440
Hard Drives
500G SSD for OS; 2T, 10T & 15T HDDs for Data on Desktop, 1TB SSD laptop, 128G SSD tablet.
PSU
Corsair CX 750M
Case
Antec 100
Cooling
CM 212+
Keyboard
IBM Model M - used continuously since 1986
Mouse
Microsoft Pro IntelliMouse
Internet Speed
400M down 8M up
Antivirus
Windows Defender
Browser
FireFox
Other Info
Built my first computer (8Mhz 8088cpu, 640K RAM, 20MB HDD, 2 360K floppy drives) in 1985 and have been building them for myself, relatives and friends ever since.
In the icon tray, there is an icon for safety removing hardware and eject media. I'm using two HDDs. One where Windows 7 is installed and another where are some data are placed. By clicking on the icon, a context menu appears where my two HDDs are listed. If I click on the HDD where just my data are placed, I get an error message:

This device is currently in use. Close any programs or windows that might be using the device, and then try again.
There aren't any applications opened which are currently in use or accessing the drive. Also after restarting my computer and try it again, the error message appears.

The reason why I want to eject the device is that working with the HHD, the performance decreased. There must be a performance issue with Windows and the device. Why this doesn't work and is there a possibility to plug out the HDD without manually removing the cable?


When i was on windows xp in the pas it was the same thing, you can turn off the session and reopen it and try to Safe removal stuff.. It was my trick for usb key or external hdd.

The hdd is used when the computer boot in the os, the os use it ! That it !

If you want performance buy a SSD 6gbs and a controller to run it.

And who said the performance is decreased because you have a second hdd with data ?

I have 3 hdd and a ssd and before i had only 3 hdd. My performance will not decrease because i have

many.

Southbridge control them, yes This device is currently in use because windows use it.<

Strolling is right just shut down the comp and un plug it. If you dont do, maybe it will damage something

even we say sata can be unplugged while running The psu unit is not dedicated to be unplugged while

running and for sata cable too, if yes show me a real study and some example that proof my say.

PS:`being mad in a forum is not acceptable its free to dont read and s*fo

Im polite and respectful, so please I think anyway its the idea of the forum
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Windows 7 64 BIT
CPU
I7 950
Motherboard
Rampage Formula 3
Memory
G.Skill 1333 FSB 3x2Gb
Graphics Card(s)
Radeon HD series 6xxx
Sound Card
Onbard Realtek by mobo
Monitor(s) Displays
G90F VIEWSONIC
Screen Resolution
1280*1024
Hard Drives
SSD agility 4 256 Gb
HDD 1.5 Tb
HDD 1 Tb
PSU
Corsair 625 Watt approx
Case
FULL TOWER THERMALTAKE
Cooling
HIGH AIR FLOW
Keyboard
HP OEM lol
Mouse
Logitech OEM
Internet Speed
CABLE 10mb
Antivirus
Vmware
You (not I) said that you have "pull the cable". I'm not disputing that you've pulled the cable. I'm sure you have. And if you don't give a damned about your data, good for you. Pulling a cable while data is being transferred, unless you have a magical disk that can continue to transfer wirelessly, will cause data corruption. So you've been lucky - congrats. I stand by what I and MS say - unless you tell the OS that it should flush and cease transferring data to the disk, data transfer can be occurring and if you pull the plug at that time.............

Suppose you say "hey I haven't copied any data to that disk for at least 5 minutes so it should be safe". Well there are several background tasks that MAY be accessing your disk. May be writing to the disk. So you check the disk activity light - it is not on. You reach out and start to (your words) "pull the cable". Your hand touches the cable and you start to pull. But you haven't told the OS not to use the disk. As you start pulling, the OS starts writing. Tada - data corruption. The POLICIES MINIMIZES the risk for those that like gambling with their data. All I said was that you like to gamble with your data and others might not realize this and start losing data.

You also said (not me) that setting the Policy for Quick Removal means the Safely Remove is irrelevant. So you tell the OS not to write cache. So how do you know when the OS is finished writing to the disk? How do you know that some background task (see above) won't start writing to the disk at the same time that you reach out to unplug the disk? You don't, nor does the OS. To safely remove a SATA disk, the OS MUST be told, otherwise you risk corruption. You may get lucky sometimes, but eventually you will get caught. Its like taking backups. No one likes to until they need to restore.

YOU MUST TELL THE OS USING SOME METHOD TO STOP WRITING TO THE DISK BEFORE REMOVING IT. POLICY Quick Removal minimizes the risk - it does not eliminate it. Take the extra 3 seconds to SAFELY REMOVE the disk.

Pitch001 - read what I wrote. We are talking about DATA CORRUPTION. Do you think Windows knows if you have internal or external power? Whether the adapter is blue or red? Duh!!! The OS does not know if the disk is internal or external. Regarding data loss, there is NO DIFFERENCE between internal and external. There is no camera inside your PC to tell the OS. There is no signal that a disk sends saying it is internal or external. The cable WAS exactly the same and often still is - some external sata disk's use a newer more robust external sata cable, but again, the PC doesn't have a camera to report this, so the OS doesn't know. Not getting into a flaming war - this thread was about data corruption, data loss and safely removing your disk. SATA disks were from day 1 designed to safely allow unplugging them (hot swap) without removing the power, without causing electrical sparks and physical destruction of the disk and maybe the mainboard due to plug and electrical specs. So you won't destroy your disk/mainboard by unplugging while there is power. This has NOTHING to do with this thread, so please try to stay on topic. This is about after NOT destroying your disk by sparks, whether the data on the disk is safe.

Too many people say either "just pull it" or "wait 1 minute after using the disk then just pull it" or "change the Policy for Quick Removal and then just pull it". This is not safe and it says so in the MS Policy settings.

Strollin - maybe I was too harsh, but your implication was that you can safely just yank the cable. You can't. You can yank it.................but.


I think the controller have to recognized which interface the disk use.
Example I have a kind of this
Amazon.com : SATA/PATA/IDE Drive to USB 2.0 Adapter Converter Cable for 2.5 / 3.5 Inch Hard Drive / 5 inch Optical Drive with External AC Power Adapter : Computer Cables & Interconnects : Computers & Accessories

The drive is internal and yes the os install a usb bridge to recognize the hdd.

Its very dangerous to unplug the stuff while computer is running the material is not dedicated for and if you dont think im right

When we were in class the instructor of A+ said sata was hotplug and could disconnect while running.

The teacher didnt trust him they try and after that the hdd was defect and the board too.

That it !
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Windows 7 64 BIT
CPU
I7 950
Motherboard
Rampage Formula 3
Memory
G.Skill 1333 FSB 3x2Gb
Graphics Card(s)
Radeon HD series 6xxx
Sound Card
Onbard Realtek by mobo
Monitor(s) Displays
G90F VIEWSONIC
Screen Resolution
1280*1024
Hard Drives
SSD agility 4 256 Gb
HDD 1.5 Tb
HDD 1 Tb
PSU
Corsair 625 Watt approx
Case
FULL TOWER THERMALTAKE
Cooling
HIGH AIR FLOW
Keyboard
HP OEM lol
Mouse
Logitech OEM
Internet Speed
CABLE 10mb
Antivirus
Vmware
Last edited:

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Windows 7 64 BIT
CPU
I7 950
Motherboard
Rampage Formula 3
Memory
G.Skill 1333 FSB 3x2Gb
Graphics Card(s)
Radeon HD series 6xxx
Sound Card
Onbard Realtek by mobo
Monitor(s) Displays
G90F VIEWSONIC
Screen Resolution
1280*1024
Hard Drives
SSD agility 4 256 Gb
HDD 1.5 Tb
HDD 1 Tb
PSU
Corsair 625 Watt approx
Case
FULL TOWER THERMALTAKE
Cooling
HIGH AIR FLOW
Keyboard
HP OEM lol
Mouse
Logitech OEM
Internet Speed
CABLE 10mb
Antivirus
Vmware
Offline your drive in Disk Management for removal.

I know this is kinda an old thread, but I figured I'd chip in some useful info for the Googlers that come through here...

Everyone is correct in that you shouldn't just "pull the cable" during disk idle time.
The premise is that you tell the os "Okay, I'm needing to remove the drive; finish all your activity."
For SATA drives that don't show up in the "Safely Remove Hardware" list, this is how you hotswap a drive without powering off the computer...

(Quick step-by-step here.)

First, open Disk Management (Run > diskmgmt.msc).
HOh2TOH.png


Then, identify which drive it is that you want to remove.
gUvKp9Y.png


Right-click the drive you wish to remove (the drive itself, not any of its partitions), and click "Offline" to cease all activity.
ahtMDxJ.png


When the drive is marked as "offline," it is safe to remove.
Ax29NYi.png


Once you pull the cables (or the drive from its bay), it will vanish from the list.
If it stays in the list, just refresh the view to see the updated list.
1rWmB7n.png


As for plugging in any SATA drives while powered on, I do recommend you plug the power cable in first, and allow the drive to fully spin up. This way, once you connect the data cable, the drive is ready for it, and Windows will quickly recognize it.

Hope this helps. :cool:
Personally tested on Vista/7/8/8.1/and 10.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Lenovo
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
Intel Core i7 2600
Motherboard
OEM
Memory
12GB DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA GeForce GT 610 & ATI AMD Radeon HD 6450
Hard Drives
Seagate 232GB Sata-III
WD 465GB Sata-II
Mushkin 60GB Sata-III (SSD)
Antivirus
Malwarebytes Anti-Malware
Browser
Firefox 37.0.1
I know this is kinda an old thread, but I figured I'd chip in some useful info for the Googlers that come through here...

Everyone is correct in that you shouldn't just "pull the cable" during disk idle time.
The premise is that you tell the os "Okay, I'm needing to remove the drive; finish all your activity."
For SATA drives that don't show up in the "Safely Remove Hardware" list, this is how you hotswap a drive without powering off the computer...

(Quick step-by-step here.)

First, open Disk Management (Run > diskmgmt.msc).
HOh2TOH.png


Then, identify which drive it is that you want to remove.
gUvKp9Y.png


Right-click the drive you wish to remove (the drive itself, not any of its partitions), and click "Offline" to cease all activity.
ahtMDxJ.png


When the drive is marked as "offline," it is safe to remove.
Ax29NYi.png


Once you pull the cables (or the drive from its bay), it will vanish from the list.
If it stays in the list, just refresh the view to see the updated list.
1rWmB7n.png


As for plugging in any SATA drives while powered on, I do recommend you plug the power cable in first, and allow the drive to fully spin up. This way, once you connect the data cable, the drive is ready for it, and Windows will quickly recognize it.

Hope this helps. :cool:
Personally tested on Vista/7/8/8.1/and 10.

Most, if not all, MOBOs now have a Hot Swap setting in the BIOS or UEFI, making all that folderol completely unnecessary.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit
CPU
Intel i7-3930K
Motherboard
ASUS P9X79 WS
Memory
Kingston HyperX Genesis 32GB Kit (8x4GB Modules) 1600MHz DDR
Graphics Card(s)
MSI R7850 Twin Frozr 2GD5/OC Radeon HD 7850 2GB 256-bit GDDR
Sound Card
Asus Xonar Essence STX
Monitor(s) Displays
3x Asus VG248QE 24", Vizio 32" TV
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080, ?
Hard Drives
Samsung 128GB 840 Pro SSD (1),
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (4)
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (16) external backup drives used in 2.5" hot swap bays in the computer.
PSU
Corsair HX750w
Case
Antec Two Hundred v2 (modified)
Cooling
Cooler Master GeminII S524 120mm (fan replaced with a 140mm)
Keyboard
Logitech G510s
Mouse
Logitech M525 (two in use)
Internet Speed
=< 32Mbps down, 8Mbps up
Antivirus
AVAST!, MBAM, SAS, Spybot S&D (all but MBAM free) Glary Util
Browser
IE11
Other Info
LSI 9211-8i HBA card (8 SATA III ports), 2.5" & 3.5" Hot Swap Bays, HooToo HT-CR001 PCI-E to USB 3.0 Internal Hub + 6 Slot Card Reader, and LG Model CH12LS28 BD-ROM Optical Drive. Also, ScanSnap S1500 ADF duplexing scanner, Canon 9000F flat bed scanner, Corsair SP2500 2.1 speakers, Samsung CLP 415nw laser color printer, Cyberpower PP2200SW UPS
Most, if not all, MOBOs now have a Hot Swap setting in the BIOS or UEFI, making all that folderol completely unnecessary.

Ooh, yeah. Forgot about that. Think it requires AHCI though, right?
Also, I think AHCI has to be enabled prior to Windows being installed, as changing it later will prevent Windows from booting?
That, and not all BIOSes have the AHCI option... only AMD/Intel chipsets, amirite? :sarc:

All in all, I prefer just to stick to Disk Management. :p
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Lenovo
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
Intel Core i7 2600
Motherboard
OEM
Memory
12GB DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA GeForce GT 610 & ATI AMD Radeon HD 6450
Hard Drives
Seagate 232GB Sata-III
WD 465GB Sata-II
Mushkin 60GB Sata-III (SSD)
Antivirus
Malwarebytes Anti-Malware
Browser
Firefox 37.0.1
Most, if not all, MOBOs now have a Hot Swap setting in the BIOS or UEFI, making all that folderol completely unnecessary.

Ooh, yeah. Forgot about that. Think it requires AHCI though, right?
Also, I think AHCI has to be enabled prior to Windows being installed, as changing it later will prevent Windows from booting?
That, and not all BIOSes have the AHCI option... only AMD/Intel chipsets, amirite? :sarc:

All in all, I prefer just to stick to Disk Management. :p

Yes, AHCI is required. Normally, it has to be enabled prior to installing Windows but there are ways around that. See here for one way.

There are very few computers anymore that use chipsets other than Intel or AMD. Most, if not all, MOBOs with SATA ports instead of IDE have it available.

It's your choice if you want to use antiquated hardware and technology but most of us prefer something more up to date.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit
CPU
Intel i7-3930K
Motherboard
ASUS P9X79 WS
Memory
Kingston HyperX Genesis 32GB Kit (8x4GB Modules) 1600MHz DDR
Graphics Card(s)
MSI R7850 Twin Frozr 2GD5/OC Radeon HD 7850 2GB 256-bit GDDR
Sound Card
Asus Xonar Essence STX
Monitor(s) Displays
3x Asus VG248QE 24", Vizio 32" TV
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080, ?
Hard Drives
Samsung 128GB 840 Pro SSD (1),
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (4)
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (16) external backup drives used in 2.5" hot swap bays in the computer.
PSU
Corsair HX750w
Case
Antec Two Hundred v2 (modified)
Cooling
Cooler Master GeminII S524 120mm (fan replaced with a 140mm)
Keyboard
Logitech G510s
Mouse
Logitech M525 (two in use)
Internet Speed
=< 32Mbps down, 8Mbps up
Antivirus
AVAST!, MBAM, SAS, Spybot S&D (all but MBAM free) Glary Util
Browser
IE11
Other Info
LSI 9211-8i HBA card (8 SATA III ports), 2.5" & 3.5" Hot Swap Bays, HooToo HT-CR001 PCI-E to USB 3.0 Internal Hub + 6 Slot Card Reader, and LG Model CH12LS28 BD-ROM Optical Drive. Also, ScanSnap S1500 ADF duplexing scanner, Canon 9000F flat bed scanner, Corsair SP2500 2.1 speakers, Samsung CLP 415nw laser color printer, Cyberpower PP2200SW UPS
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