Solved stop 0x00000f4 and Live Kernal Event (BCcode 116) while gaming

[James27]

System specs:

OS: Windows 7 64-bit
CPU: Intel Core i7 3770
GPU: NVIDA GTX 970
RAM: Duel DDR3 8GB
Motherboard: P8H77-V LE

So for the last few months I've been plagued with BSOD issues while gaming. These only ever occur while in actual gameplay, and doesn't happen in not so demanding games.

This is one of them how it appears in BlueScreenView:

My drivers are all up to date. My GPU doesn't appear to be overheating either. I use MSI Afterburner to monitor it and I've never seen it go above 70.

Now, there's another one I'm more concered with that I get when I lower my GPU clock speed. And to be clear, this is from the dafault speed. I have never OC'd any of my hardware. Anyway, it still happens in gameplay, takes a bit longer to happen, though. There is also periodic freezing and sound looping before it happens. Here's a screenshot of when it happens. Sorry if it's a bit unclear. I could try to get another one if it is.

The annoying thing about this one is that it doesn't create any dump files, or appear in BlueScreenView. This is the only info I have on it. Now, for this one I have tried everything suggested here (Second post). All the tests have shown no errors, including the memtest86+, which I ran for 10 passes. The only interesting thing is, when I run the extended version of the Memory Diagnostics Tool, it always gets stuck at 21%. It seems to be a pretty common problem, but could it be a sign that my RAM is busted, or doesn't it matter since, as I already said, the memtest showed no errors for 10 passes? I have also ran a full chkdsk which came up with no errors.

Anyway, I hope that's all the info that's needed. Attached is the required info of my system, along with the dump files. Remember, though, those dump files are only of the first BSOD issue I talked about, as the other one doesn't create any.

 

[essenbe]

Hello, James27. Here are your dump results, and I have a few questions.

VIDEO_TDR_FAILURE (116)
Attempt to reset the display driver and recover from timeout failed.
Arguments:
Arg1: fffff98066a8a4e0, Optional pointer to internal TDR recovery context (TDR_RECOVERY_CONTEXT).
Arg2: fffff880050cead4, The pointer into responsible device driver module (e.g. owner tag).
Arg3: ffffffffc000009a, Optional error code (NTSTATUS) of the last failed operation.
Arg4: 0000000000000004, Optional internal context dependent data.
Debugging Details:
FAULTING_IP: 
nvlddmkm+82fad4
fffff880`050cead4 48ff25e5f1ebff  jmp     qword ptr [nvlddmkm+0x6eecc0 (fffff880`04f8dcc0)]
DEFAULT_BUCKET_ID: [COLOR=red] VERIFIER_ENABLED_VISTA_MINIDUMP[/COLOR]

Why do you have Driver Verifier enabled?

[COLOR=red]MANUALLY_INITIATED_CRASH (e2)[/COLOR]
[COLOR=red]The user manually initiated this crash dump.[/COLOR]
Arguments:
Arg1: 0000000000000000
Arg2: 0000000000000000
Arg3: 0000000000000000
Arg4: 0000000000000000
Debugging Details:
------------------
 
BUGCHECK_STR:  MANUALLY_INITIATED_CRASH
CUSTOMER_CRASH_COUNT:  1
DEFAULT_BUCKET_ID:  [COLOR=red]VERIFIER_ENABLED_VISTA_MINIDUMP[/COLOR]

Please explain that to me also, you had 2 of them that I checked.

 

[James27]

Dangit, I had a feeling I should have explained that. The driver verifier and manual crash were suggested to me elsewhere. I heard that the verifier helps you tell if it's a driver problem. To be honest I still don't fully understand it. It's not running anymore, in any case. I supposed the manual crash was suggested in order to force a dump file. You can ignore it, it isn't going to be much use here.

 

[essenbe]

Did you undo the manual crash? I can honestly think of no reason that would help find the problem. The purpose of a dump file is to try to get it to tell you what caused it. With a manual dump, you already know what caused it.... You.

 

[essenbe]

Please try to reinstall your Graphics driver using this method, http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/327414-nvidia-drivers-avoid-problems.html

 

[James27]

Thanks for the link. I'll try that and get back to you.

 

[James27]

Well I reinstalled my divers following those steps, hasn't helped. Still getting the same blue screens.

 

[essenbe]

What manufacturer and Model PSU do you have? Also, please go to BIOS and tell me the Values for the +1`2V, +5V and +3.3V

 

[James27]

Unfortunately, my PSU is the only thing I've never been able to find any info on. I did have a look at it once, and all I saw was the serial number, which is kb110600566, and a label with the number 110527.

Anyway, I went to BIOS and these are the values:

3.3v goes between 3.205 and 3.185. 5v = 5.070. 12v = 11.880.

 

[essenbe]

Most Power Supplies I have ever seen always have a white sticker on the side with the Max Power wattage as well as the Amps on the +12V, +5V and +3.3V and other information. If you know where you bought it, check there.

 

[James27]

I can tell you the wattage is 600. But apart from that and the numbers I mentioned, there was nothing else. I bought it from a website that builds custom PCs, but that was years ago. I can't remember it for the life of me.

 

[essenbe]

This is what you should have on the PSU. If not, I would think someone is trying to hide something.

View attachment 363633

 

[Arc]

The driver verifier and manual crash were suggested to me elsewhere.

I dont know where .... I dont want to know too .... but better you dont continue there as long as you are continuing here, with us.

Both were goalless and meaningless suggestions which will not add anything positive to the issue but lots of negative. Please dont mix up those odd ans meaningless suggestions with what you are having from here.

 

[James27]

So I had another look for the make and model and... I found them! Don't know how I missed them before, but here it is.

So the Make is Storm, and Model number is LPK19-30. Also, don't know if it will be useful, but I took note of the Amp values. 3.3v = 32A. 5v = 40A. 12v = 24A.

 

[essenbe]

Would you check those numbers again? That PSU is not a very high quality PSU. What those numbers say is that on your 12V rail, it will max out at 288 Watts, which your card can pull more than that. More than your card runs off the 12V rail too. According to Anandtech (Power, Temperature, & Noise - The NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970 Review: Featuring EVGA) a 970 can pull over 300 Watts at max power draw. Nvidia requires a minimum of 28 amps on the 12V rail.

I can't say that is the cause of all your problems, but it very well could be much of the problem. I would get a quality PSU such as Seasonic, Corsair, EVGA, Antec or XFX, and get a larger size that the minimum.

 

[James27]

Thanks a lot. I'd really rather not have to check again though. It's a pretty big hassle since the info is on the opposite side to where I take off the case, meaning I need to unscrew the PSU it and take it out to have a look. But as I said, I did get it a good few years ago so it doesn't surprise me it's not very high quality. Luckily, payday will be arriving soon, so I'm thinking I'll buy a new one then and get back to you.

 

[essenbe]

OK, but again. I am not saying that will solve all of your problems, but it could be the cause of some of them. If you look at the picture I showed of the sticker you will see some things. I realize that PSU is larger than yours, but it is a 1200 Watt PSU. It shows 100.4 Amps on the +12V rail. Which means the 12V rail will put out 1204 Watts out of the 1200 it is rated at. Yours will put out less than 50% of it's rating. Now, to be fair, I believe ( but not factually) the +5V and +3.3V are split off the +12V rail, which means I still have over 1000 Watts from the 12V.

 

[James27]

So I've decided to go with this one (semi-modular one), but I'm debating between the 750w one or the 850w. I realize it's kinda cheeky asking this, but I wanted to double check would 750w be enough for a system like mine? I mean it looks more than good enough to me, but... could be wrong.

 

[essenbe]

Yes, that will be good for you. If you will click tech specs on this link CX Series™ Modular CX750M ATX Power Supply — 750 Watt 80 PLUS® Bronze Certified Modular PSU You will see the differences in amps and watts compared to what you have now. You currently have 24 Amps on the +12V rail, the Corsair has 62 Amps on the 12V rail. Quite a difference, don't you think? Save your receipt from Amazon. They will ask for it if something goes wrong, but Corsair's warranty is quite good and they are usually very good at replacing anything defective.

 

[essenbe]

I would also like you to run Seatools for DOS both the Long and the short test.http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/313457-seatools-dos-windows-how-use.html#Part3