Trouble migrating an IDE drive to SATA mobo

Bultaco

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I was trying to figure out the best way to move files from my old PIII XP PRO desktop to my new Quad 7 box but then decided why not just move the drive over. (didn't remember that I might have used Windows Easy Transfer!)

The new Windows 7 64bit sata machine already had a 300gb sata drive as primary so I thought the 120 coming from the old computer might make a good storage partner/backup. (It might be better if they were the other way around....with the 300 as the 'backup'....but, so be it.

I bought an IDE to SATA adaptor to connect the old IDE drive to the sata mobo.
It seemed to work initially, although somewhat "sketchily"; the computer was slow to boot but I did eventually have both drives running OK and was able to access all files on both and see them both on my workgroup.

After a couple of shutdowns and restarts, though, the machine got increasingly slow/difficult to boot (sometimes only coming to life if I hit the spacebar on my keyboard (weird!)......then after three or four of these wonky boots, it wouldn't boot at all. I removed the added drive and after many shutdowns and restarts, the box finally started windows 7, but I swear it played the XP sign-on/splash screen music! At that point I realized/remembered that the XP Pro OS was still on the old drive....and now I see in another thread, that IDE drives somehow "overrule" sata drives. Ooops.

I think my Master Boot Record is botched up. (Booting takes longer than it did before.....and I swear the "login music" is wrong!) I don't even see a BIOS prompt when booting now; the computer goes from blackscreen to windows splash screen....no "F12 or F2" visible anywhere.

So, here are the questions:
1. Should I keep this drive? (I've invested in the adaptor and I'd hate to scrap both)
2. Can I hot-mount the old drive (connect it while the pc is running) so I don't risk another 'spooky' boot?
3. Is there a special setting for the jumpers on this 2nd drive...or are they different depending on the brand?
4. How do I get my BIOS prompt back...and what do I do once I get into it? (assuming I can.)

Complicating any rescue efforts is the fact that my Windows 7 disk is one of the popular (read: CHEAP) OEM versions that I don't believe provides all the REPAIR utilities that come with the full-blown copies. Any suggestions for fixing up my boot process OTHER than a full re-install? (I'm lazy...like most humans...and HATE the thought of all that backing up and reloading!)

Thanks a bunch for any and all tips/tricks/suggestions.
 

My Computer My Computer

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Win 7 Enterprise 64bitIntel Core 2 Quad 2.4 GHz6GB2 x Nvidia G-Force 7300 Dual DVI
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Hybrid
OS
Win 7 Enterprise 64bit
CPU
Intel Core 2 Quad 2.4 GHz
Motherboard
ATX, Micro-ATX
Memory
6GB
Graphics Card(s)
2 x Nvidia G-Force 7300 Dual DVI
Sound Card
Intel HD /AC’ 97 Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
3 x Samsung Syncmaster 226BW
Hard Drives
300 GB Hard Drive ATA 10k RPM
DVD/ CD Writer W LightScribe
PSU
800W
Case
Cool Master Case Black
Cooling
System Front :120 mm green LED fan x 1, 1200 rpm, 21 dBA
hit f8 during boot up....go to advanced boot options....repair your computer...press "enter"...startup repair
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

windows 10 pro 64 biti5 4690K@4500 COOLER MASTER Seidon 120M water...16gb Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600EVGA GTX 1070 sc
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom
OS
windows 10 pro 64 bit
CPU
i5 4690K@4500 COOLER MASTER Seidon 120M water cooler
Motherboard
ASUS SABERTOOTH Z87 LGA 1150 Intel
Memory
16gb Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 sc
Monitor(s) Displays
BenQ GL2760H Black 27" 2ms HDMI Widescreen LED 1920X1080
Screen Resolution
DSR 2103X1183
Hard Drives
ADATA 256 gig SSD + 4 junk
PSU
EVGA supernova 750
Case
coolermaster
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z merc
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Logitech wireless G602
Internet Speed
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Just when do I do that?

hit f8 during boot up....go to advanced boot options....repair your computer...press "enter"...startup repair

Thanks for getting back, Ivan.

I'm familiar with the process....unfortunately, I don't get a BIOS prompt on my screen, so I don't know when to hit F8. If I do it at the "wrong" time (which apparently is any time I do it...before, during or after the lights coming on/going off etc)....the computer just sits there with a black screen and never boots.

Here's what happens.....(and it does pretty much the same thing, whether starting from OFF or RESTART)
I hit the start button (or click on restart)
Everything is black
After about 10 seconds the NumLok light on my keyboard comes on and stays on
The drives/fans continue to run for about 30 seconds (screen black all this time)
Then the other two lights on the keyboard (Caps Lock & Scroll Lock) come on for 1 sec.
Then ALL lights go off for about ten seconds
Then the NumLok light comes back on briefly then goes off, and right after that, Windows 7 splash screen comes up and the program launches.

At no time is there a prompt or any text on screen referring to BIOS or any F keys.

Is there any way of knowing EXACTLY when to hit F8?

Or is this not likely a procedure that's going to work for me, given my description of the visual clues I'm (not) getting? (Is there any OTHER way to get into BIOS besides the "boot interruption" technique?

Thanks again to ANYONE who has any tips.

Mike
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Win 7 Enterprise 64bitIntel Core 2 Quad 2.4 GHz6GB2 x Nvidia G-Force 7300 Dual DVI
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Hybrid
OS
Win 7 Enterprise 64bit
CPU
Intel Core 2 Quad 2.4 GHz
Motherboard
ATX, Micro-ATX
Memory
6GB
Graphics Card(s)
2 x Nvidia G-Force 7300 Dual DVI
Sound Card
Intel HD /AC’ 97 Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
3 x Samsung Syncmaster 226BW
Hard Drives
300 GB Hard Drive ATA 10k RPM
DVD/ CD Writer W LightScribe
PSU
800W
Case
Cool Master Case Black
Cooling
System Front :120 mm green LED fan x 1, 1200 rpm, 21 dBA
Can you bring up the monitor's on screen menu? (computer off), if so try a different video card or the motherboard video.....
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

windows 10 pro 64 biti5 4690K@4500 COOLER MASTER Seidon 120M water...16gb Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600EVGA GTX 1070 sc
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom
OS
windows 10 pro 64 bit
CPU
i5 4690K@4500 COOLER MASTER Seidon 120M water cooler
Motherboard
ASUS SABERTOOTH Z87 LGA 1150 Intel
Memory
16gb Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 sc
Monitor(s) Displays
BenQ GL2760H Black 27" 2ms HDMI Widescreen LED 1920X1080
Screen Resolution
DSR 2103X1183
Hard Drives
ADATA 256 gig SSD + 4 junk
PSU
EVGA supernova 750
Case
coolermaster
Cooling
many...
Keyboard
z merc
Mouse
Logitech wireless G602
Internet Speed
2.5mbs cable
I'm not questioning your approach, but I'm also not sure I understand what you're getting at with that process? :confused: (AND I don't have any other video cards!):(

In the meantime, I attempted to create a partition on my drive using Easeus (apparently the new alternative for Partition Magic) so that I could possibly reinstall Win 7 from scratch onto the new partition, without trashing my data files.

Seems I've really screwed things up now; now I'm not able to boot AT ALL; neither from the hard drive nor the CD with my disk in it. I was not able to boot from the CD previously anyway, but now the hard drive is equally non-responsive. This is not looking good.

Hellllllllppppppppppppp!:cry:
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Win 7 Enterprise 64bitIntel Core 2 Quad 2.4 GHz6GB2 x Nvidia G-Force 7300 Dual DVI
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Hybrid
OS
Win 7 Enterprise 64bit
CPU
Intel Core 2 Quad 2.4 GHz
Motherboard
ATX, Micro-ATX
Memory
6GB
Graphics Card(s)
2 x Nvidia G-Force 7300 Dual DVI
Sound Card
Intel HD /AC’ 97 Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
3 x Samsung Syncmaster 226BW
Hard Drives
300 GB Hard Drive ATA 10k RPM
DVD/ CD Writer W LightScribe
PSU
800W
Case
Cool Master Case Black
Cooling
System Front :120 mm green LED fan x 1, 1200 rpm, 21 dBA
Monitors and video cards have two modes....alphanumeric for the BIOS, and graphic for windows...the on screen monitor menu is alphanumeric, so if it works its not the monitor.....

Your spec show dual video cards if one can show the BIOS screen then one card is bad....possibly cable if neither shows video....

If the motherboard has built in graphics but can't show the BIOS screen....possible cable/bad motherboard/power supply issues
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

windows 10 pro 64 biti5 4690K@4500 COOLER MASTER Seidon 120M water...16gb Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600EVGA GTX 1070 sc
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom
OS
windows 10 pro 64 bit
CPU
i5 4690K@4500 COOLER MASTER Seidon 120M water cooler
Motherboard
ASUS SABERTOOTH Z87 LGA 1150 Intel
Memory
16gb Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 sc
Monitor(s) Displays
BenQ GL2760H Black 27" 2ms HDMI Widescreen LED 1920X1080
Screen Resolution
DSR 2103X1183
Hard Drives
ADATA 256 gig SSD + 4 junk
PSU
EVGA supernova 750
Case
coolermaster
Cooling
many...
Keyboard
z merc
Mouse
Logitech wireless G602
Internet Speed
2.5mbs cable
Ah......now that makes sense.

Unfortunately, as I mentioned above......I seem to have bigger/different problems now: after trying that partitioning exercise, I don't hear anything coming from the drive other than a steady hum. (No thudding and whining as you usually would during bootup.)

Any thoughts as to where I go from here? (Please don't say the computer shop......I HATE the thought that I wouldn't be able to get outta this jam with your help!)

Thanks,
Mike
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Win 7 Enterprise 64bitIntel Core 2 Quad 2.4 GHz6GB2 x Nvidia G-Force 7300 Dual DVI
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Hybrid
OS
Win 7 Enterprise 64bit
CPU
Intel Core 2 Quad 2.4 GHz
Motherboard
ATX, Micro-ATX
Memory
6GB
Graphics Card(s)
2 x Nvidia G-Force 7300 Dual DVI
Sound Card
Intel HD /AC’ 97 Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
3 x Samsung Syncmaster 226BW
Hard Drives
300 GB Hard Drive ATA 10k RPM
DVD/ CD Writer W LightScribe
PSU
800W
Case
Cool Master Case Black
Cooling
System Front :120 mm green LED fan x 1, 1200 rpm, 21 dBA
If you system will not show anything its kinda hard to install, or fix anything....gotta get the hardware right or the software will never work...so tedious as it may be: check all the stuff mentioned and get back with the results
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

windows 10 pro 64 biti5 4690K@4500 COOLER MASTER Seidon 120M water...16gb Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600EVGA GTX 1070 sc
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom
OS
windows 10 pro 64 bit
CPU
i5 4690K@4500 COOLER MASTER Seidon 120M water cooler
Motherboard
ASUS SABERTOOTH Z87 LGA 1150 Intel
Memory
16gb Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 sc
Monitor(s) Displays
BenQ GL2760H Black 27" 2ms HDMI Widescreen LED 1920X1080
Screen Resolution
DSR 2103X1183
Hard Drives
ADATA 256 gig SSD + 4 junk
PSU
EVGA supernova 750
Case
coolermaster
Cooling
many...
Keyboard
z merc
Mouse
Logitech wireless G602
Internet Speed
2.5mbs cable
Monitors and video cards have two modes....alphanumeric for the BIOS, and graphic for windows...the on screen monitor menu is alphanumeric, so if it works its not the monitor.....

Your spec show dual video cards if one can show the BIOS screen then one card is bad....possibly cable if neither shows video....

If the motherboard has built in graphics but can't show the BIOS screen....possible cable/bad motherboard/power supply issues

I'm virtually positive it isn't anything wrong with the monitor or it's cable. The monitor does display the Digital/Analog square that comes up in the corner of the screen....just as it always does......and if I push the menu buttons on the monitor's control panel I do get the message floating across the screen advising me to check the cable because it's getting no signal.

(I feel) It has to be something related to the BIOS, boot sector or the drive. The drive just isn't "bumping and grinding" the way a drive does when it boots.....and IT'S the only thing I've really messed around with by doing the partitioning thing. I very much doubt that anything has coincidentally gone 'wrong' with the video cards or motherboard at the same time.

Plus, I have no way of checking these things if my drive isn't reading properly.

How about just putting in a new, virgin drive? I don't have one on hand, but I'm thinking about buying one anyway (a 500).....and if that would get this thing booting....I'll do it.
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Win 7 Enterprise 64bitIntel Core 2 Quad 2.4 GHz6GB2 x Nvidia G-Force 7300 Dual DVI
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Hybrid
OS
Win 7 Enterprise 64bit
CPU
Intel Core 2 Quad 2.4 GHz
Motherboard
ATX, Micro-ATX
Memory
6GB
Graphics Card(s)
2 x Nvidia G-Force 7300 Dual DVI
Sound Card
Intel HD /AC’ 97 Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
3 x Samsung Syncmaster 226BW
Hard Drives
300 GB Hard Drive ATA 10k RPM
DVD/ CD Writer W LightScribe
PSU
800W
Case
Cool Master Case Black
Cooling
System Front :120 mm green LED fan x 1, 1200 rpm, 21 dBA
You can try it of course....but if you can't SEE the bios, how are you going to know what to do? You will be worse off than I was the time I tried to install a Russian language version of XP (almost finished)....

If you can find your motherboard documents there MIGHT be a jumper to reset the bios....but its kinda hard to mess up the BIOS...some viruses can write themselves to the BIOS, but most malware doesn't want to bork your computer....they want CC #'s your pin and three digit code, and you to not know it (till it's too late)

If your BIOS is messed up that points to a bad CMOS chip on the motherboard....all the BIOS really does with the hard drive is find it, and get the size then, when all its test are finished look for the boot sector...maybe...if its shorted it might stop the BIOS from loading...

You got by with this problem before since Windows was bootable...once it booted it could install its own drivers...now it can't and most likely the option to boot from cd is not selected.....You can make a bootable USB stick on another computer, but if the option to boot from cd is deselected what are the chances that option is selected? Making a bootable usb stick is something I have never done....it's really for IT types to quick install, test, and delete....I do know you need a four gig or better stick...

But I'm not a IT guy I,m just your average everyday...Ivan,....with a mouse on my head as is most everybody here...minus the mouse....I am not getting paid...the only reward is I might get a little rep....and that will add a little more stuff next to my name....Oh there is one thing more the joy in HELPING someone get their computer back in shape....I have gave you my best suggestions, and you have done a little bit....we can cross off monitor...I know that my suggestion is not the easiest thing to do...if you don't feel comfortable doing it, fine....I can understand that....but you seem to want to run rabbits now you have a drive with a messed up partition table, data that may or not be recoverable....and are looking at a BLIND Windows install...I do not envy you....
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

windows 10 pro 64 biti5 4690K@4500 COOLER MASTER Seidon 120M water...16gb Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600EVGA GTX 1070 sc
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom
OS
windows 10 pro 64 bit
CPU
i5 4690K@4500 COOLER MASTER Seidon 120M water cooler
Motherboard
ASUS SABERTOOTH Z87 LGA 1150 Intel
Memory
16gb Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 sc
Monitor(s) Displays
BenQ GL2760H Black 27" 2ms HDMI Widescreen LED 1920X1080
Screen Resolution
DSR 2103X1183
Hard Drives
ADATA 256 gig SSD + 4 junk
PSU
EVGA supernova 750
Case
coolermaster
Cooling
many...
Keyboard
z merc
Mouse
Logitech wireless G602
Internet Speed
2.5mbs cable
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