WIFI Security

It is said that Wireless Security is an oxymoron. In other words, you can never be 100% secure with wireless.

However, you can tighten things down enough that the chance of you getting hacked is virtually nil. I'm sure that the FBI could find a way, if it was important to them, but I doubt you are that suspected.

So do what you can. Block all mac addresses not in your white list, use WPA-2 encryptions, don't broadcast your SSID, but most importantly, if you see a black van by the side of the road near your house, shut down your internet connection. :D



I like the black van part. lol :)

I also limited my ip address range to the two devices in the network.

range 192.168.1.64 (being PS3)- 192.168.1.65 (being my PC). Some people might rip on this suggestion, but in my case, with use on LAN limited to pretty much myself, it works well for me, no probs. I will be adding X-Box 360 soon, and just have to allow one more ip allocation ie. 192.168.1.64 to 192.168.1.66

I have dhcp enabled, but have port forwarding setup for a sharing program on the PC and ports forwarded for voice chat and various PS3 required functions, with no worries of ip wandering, AS LONG as I turn the devices on in the proper order, but seeing my PC stays on nearly 24/7 it never loses it's assigned ip and the PS3 automatically takes the only other one available. It has been a few months now and I have not had to mess with my router, or other setting due to ip's not matching, and ports getting screwed up.

This is in a wired setup, but this might be another way to tighten up your security on the wifi as well. If you have many people logging in and out, and need a wider ip range to allow more ip's to be dished out, this might not be for you.

Just a thought, something that is working for me.

Tell me to butt out if I missed the mark here.....lol:p

No. I'm open to all ideas, but I will have to consider if I can apply them to my situation. I don't have anything that needs to access the network, except two computers, and the router is set to identify them via their MACs. I think that would be equal to their IPs. However, in my first configuration attempt, I did enable DHCP, and it lists IP and MAC for both computers. Perhaps I should disable DHCP...I'm not sure.



My theory on this is that they can spoof this or that, but if only 2 device ip's are available for assignment, and as usual my devices are nearly always on, there's nowhere for an intruder to go, just another roadblock. The can only assign one of the two ip's and seeing they are already taken...dead end. It may not suit your style setup, but just something I kind of tried after doing various experiments with media servers and port forwarding, etc. etc.

It is working for me now but you know how sometimes things can change quickly.....:doh:


EDIT: I also just thought, you can also limit the broadcast power of your router, in theory, shrinking the radius of your signal. Apartments, this works to a little effect, but in a home on decent sized land you'd maybe see the benefit more, people would have to park under your front window to get a strong signal. Most wireless routers have some kind of power adjustment.

Watch out for camouflaged painted Accords in the bushes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Laptop Acer Aspire 6930
OS
Windows 7 Professional
CPU
Intel Core2 Duo CPU T6400 @ 2.00GHz
Memory
3 GB
Graphics Card(s)
lowly Intel Express Chipset WHOPPING 64 mb dedicated.LOL
Monitor(s) Displays
26" RCA and 40" Haier, and laptop 17" screen
Screen Resolution
26":1366X768 40":1920X1080 Laptop Screen: 1366X768
Hard Drives
Onboard HDD 300 GB/
Seagate 1TB External HDD/
Verbatim 500 GB External HDD/
Firelite 160 GB USB HDD
Keyboard
Microsoft Intellitype Wireless Multimedia Keyboard 1.1
Mouse
Microsoft Wireless Optical Mouse 2000
Other Info
Currently using Telus DSL. I currently have a 3.0 connection, but on wait list for 15.0 connection.
seekermeister, as said earlier... there is no "absolute" security in computer network. Well... there is, disconnect the computer, then turn it off... Anyways...

If you are paranoid about your wifi network connection, I have several suggestions:

1. Don't use DHCP, disable it, use manual static IP addressing. Use weird IP addresses, there's a lot of private IP subnets that you can use that doesn't start with 192, or 10, or 172... And use classless subnet mask (anything other than 8/16/24 bits).
2. Use obscure wifi standards, preferably 802.11a, though slow, it will most of the time "save" you. The analogy is this, if the thief can't see the house, he can't break into it... If you need speed, then all you can do is use g/n plus WPA2 encryption (preferably AES). Stay away from MAC address access control, if the "hacker" knows how to break into your wifi AP, spoofing a MAC address is child play.
3. If you're comfy, use pre-shared key. This is the "key" so that you can login to your wifi AP. If you're paranoid, use 32 random characters or more as a key, don't forget to use special characters (like *,(,),-,_,+,=, etc). If you're don't feel comfy with it, use RADIUS server to store the key(s) (but you'd need somewhat better access point for this kind of security). By using RADIUS, you can make many keys, and rotate those keys (this depends on the RADIUS server).
4. If you're REALLY paranoid, then put your wifi network on the outside of your LAN, then use router to connect the two, then put a traffic filter between the two. By this I mean once you're connected, you can't just put IP address then all is well, you need to configure gateway(s), custom DNS servers, etc. Much harder to break into.
5. If you are BEYOND PARANOID, put the wifi network outside LAN, and isolate it, put a VPN server in there. So if you want to connect to your LAN, you need to authenticate at least twice (first will be the wifi connection, then set static IP address, then authenticate to the VPN server) and put traffic filtering plus SNORT server, make it to automatically shutdown the network interface if it detects ANY SUSPICIOUS activity. If you're beyond all this, stack the VPN server configuration as I mentioned earlier several layers... that ought to drive the hacker away simply because it's too tedious to break into...

zzz2496
 
Last edited:

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self Built
OS
Windows7 Ultimate 64bit
CPU
Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600
Motherboard
Abit IN9-32X-MMAX
Memory
DDR2 Adata 4GB
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia GeForce GTX 285 1024 and Nvidia GeForce 8800GT 512
Sound Card
Asus Xonar HDAV 1.3
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell 2407WFP and BenQ 2400v and Philips 150v3
Screen Resolution
3840x1200 and 1024x768
Hard Drives
2 WDC 1TB
1 WDC 1.5TB
1 WDC 640GB
1 WDC 320GB
1 Seagate 200GB
PSU
Corsair TX 850W
Case
Cooler Master HAF932
Cooling
Arctic Cooling Freezer Extreme and plenty of fans...
Keyboard
MicrosoftNaturalKeyboard 4000/Apple Alu keyboard/Dinovo mini
Mouse
Logitech G5/MarbleMouseTrackball/PerformanceMX/SpacePilotPRO
Internet Speed
1.5Mbps down/384Kbps up
Other Info
APC SURT 1000XL
Logitech Z-560
Wiimote
Mikrotik Router
Linksys (now Cisco) SD2008 8 port Gigabit switch
Linksys WRT54G (acting as AP)
Apple wireless Aluminium keyboard
Apple Magic Mouse
Xbox360 wired controller
There is no 100% but with a strong password without using real words and add other char as well will get you a fairly safe system. For WPA-2 cracking they must run your packets through a dictionary and if the password used is not within, it will not pick it up... To find more info on this visit Back-Track and read a little... GL :)
It appears that Back Track is simply a distro of Linux, which may be quite good...I don't know. However, my concern is WIFI security in general, regardless of the OS being used. So this is something that I will bookmark for future use, but it doesn't seem to fit what I'm looking for now.

Be worried of programs such as Back-Track as it can be used to gather most passwords used by wifi... It's been one that I have tested and is and can get through many wpa passwords... There is ways you can protect yourself and I suggested a few and posted their site to help you protect yourself the best that you can... GL :)
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Toshiba Satellite
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit
CPU
Pentium(R) Dual-Core T4300 @ 2.10GHz
Motherboard
Toshiba Model KSWAA - Chipset Intel GL40 Rev 07
Memory
3 GB DDR2 PC2-6400 (400 MHz) Samsung M4 70T2864Q23-CF7
Graphics Card(s)
Mobile Intel GMA4500M 32bit OS (64bit OS) dynamically
Sound Card
Realtek ALC272-GR Software Sound
Monitor(s) Displays
16.0" HD TFT with TrueBrite Matrix colour LCD display
Screen Resolution
1366 x 768
Hard Drives
FUJITSU MJA2320BH G2-(S2) 320GB (5400RPM) Serial-ATA
Keyboard
Canadian Bilingual Keyboard 105 keys with 13 Function keys
Mouse
Touchpad Point device & Lexma USB Mouse
Internet Speed
Walking is Faster
Other Info
Wireless LAN Realtek RTL89191SE 802.11n PCI-E NIC + a
LAN Realek PCIe FE Family Controller and
TOSHIBA Software Modem
seekermeister, as said earlier... there is no "absolute" security in computer network. Well... there is, disconnect the computer, then turn it off... Anyways...

If you are paranoid about your wifi network connection, I have several suggestions:

1. Don't use DHCP, disable it, use manual static IP addressing. Use weird IP addresses, there's a lot of private IP subnets that you can use that doesn't start with 192, or 10, or 172... And use classless subnet mask (anything other than 8/16/24 bits).
2. Use obscure wifi standards, preferably 802.11a, though slow, it will most of the time "save" you. The analogy is this, if the thief can't see the house, he can't break into it... If you need speed, then all you can do is use g/n plus WPA2 encryption (preferably AES). Stay away from MAC address access control, if the "hacker" knows how to break into your wifi AP, spoofing a MAC address is child play.
3. If you're comfy, use pre-shared key. This is the "key" so that you can login to your wifi AP. If you're paranoid, use 32 random characters or more as a key, don't forget to use special characters (like *,(,),-,_,+,=, etc). If you're don't feel comfy with it, use RADIUS server to store the key(s) (but you'd need somewhat better access point for this kind of security). By using RADIUS, you can make many keys, and rotate those keys (this depends on the RADIUS server).
4. If you're REALLY paranoid, then put your wifi network on the outside of your LAN, then use router to connect the two, then put a traffic filter between the two. By this I mean once you're connected, you can't just put IP address then all is well, you need to configure gateway(s), custom DNS servers, etc. Much harder to break into.
5. If you are BEYOND PARANOID, put the wifi network outside LAN, and isolate it, put a VPN server in there. So if you want to connect to your LAN, you need to authenticate at least twice (first will be the wifi connection, then set static IP address, then authenticate to the VPN server) and put traffic filtering plus SNORT server, make it to automatically shutdown the network interface if it detects ANY SUSPICIOUS activity. If you're beyond all this, stack the VPN server configuration as I mentioned earlier several layers... that ought to drive the hacker away simply because it's too tedious to break into...

zzz2496
I sort of fit into item 5, but I have to balance that with what I think that I'm capable of managing. I'll start at item 1 and progress as I can.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
DIY
OS
W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
CPU
Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
Motherboard
ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
Memory
2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Sound Card
Asus Xonar D2X/**Xonar D1
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H, Dell E152FPc /**LG M237-WD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 & 1024x768/**1980x1080
Hard Drives
WDC 2TB, 1.5TB, 1TB, 500GB,Seagate 500GB , Maxtor 80GB /**500GB Seagate & WDC 1TB Black
PSU
CM RS600 w/ APC BX1000G/**Antec 500 TP w/ APC BX1000
Case
HAF922/**Antec 1040IIB
Cooling
3x200mm, 1x140 and 1x120mm/**5x80mm fans
Keyboard
Logitech Media USB/**Saitek Eclipse
Mouse
Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
Internet Speed
3.3Mbps
Other Info
SB 560 5.1 w/ Sennheiser RS140/**Creative T20 speakers, Dvico FusionHDTV7 Gold RT, Cisco E3000, HP 5510V AIO, Linksys E3000, Belkin F5U237 hub and **F5D8055 adapter
(** = 2nd rig)
There is no 100% but with a strong password without using real words and add other char as well will get you a fairly safe system. For WPA-2 cracking they must run your packets through a dictionary and if the password used is not within, it will not pick it up... To find more info on this visit Back-Track and read a little... GL :)
It appears that Back Track is simply a distro of Linux, which may be quite good...I don't know. However, my concern is WIFI security in general, regardless of the OS being used. So this is something that I will bookmark for future use, but it doesn't seem to fit what I'm looking for now.

Be worried of programs such as Back-Track as it can be used to gather most passwords used by wifi... It's been one that I have tested and is and can get through many wpa passwords... There is ways you can protect yourself and I suggested a few and posted their site to help you protect yourself the best that you can... GL :)
Ahh, originally I thought that you linked to it as something to use, rather than something guard against. I will look it over again with that in mind.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
DIY
OS
W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
CPU
Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
Motherboard
ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
Memory
2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Sound Card
Asus Xonar D2X/**Xonar D1
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H, Dell E152FPc /**LG M237-WD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 & 1024x768/**1980x1080
Hard Drives
WDC 2TB, 1.5TB, 1TB, 500GB,Seagate 500GB , Maxtor 80GB /**500GB Seagate & WDC 1TB Black
PSU
CM RS600 w/ APC BX1000G/**Antec 500 TP w/ APC BX1000
Case
HAF922/**Antec 1040IIB
Cooling
3x200mm, 1x140 and 1x120mm/**5x80mm fans
Keyboard
Logitech Media USB/**Saitek Eclipse
Mouse
Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
Internet Speed
3.3Mbps
Other Info
SB 560 5.1 w/ Sennheiser RS140/**Creative T20 speakers, Dvico FusionHDTV7 Gold RT, Cisco E3000, HP 5510V AIO, Linksys E3000, Belkin F5U237 hub and **F5D8055 adapter
(** = 2nd rig)
By the way, have a look at my favorite router, Mikrotik RB-450G router board, google it...

zzz2496
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self Built
OS
Windows7 Ultimate 64bit
CPU
Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600
Motherboard
Abit IN9-32X-MMAX
Memory
DDR2 Adata 4GB
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia GeForce GTX 285 1024 and Nvidia GeForce 8800GT 512
Sound Card
Asus Xonar HDAV 1.3
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell 2407WFP and BenQ 2400v and Philips 150v3
Screen Resolution
3840x1200 and 1024x768
Hard Drives
2 WDC 1TB
1 WDC 1.5TB
1 WDC 640GB
1 WDC 320GB
1 Seagate 200GB
PSU
Corsair TX 850W
Case
Cooler Master HAF932
Cooling
Arctic Cooling Freezer Extreme and plenty of fans...
Keyboard
MicrosoftNaturalKeyboard 4000/Apple Alu keyboard/Dinovo mini
Mouse
Logitech G5/MarbleMouseTrackball/PerformanceMX/SpacePilotPRO
Internet Speed
1.5Mbps down/384Kbps up
Other Info
APC SURT 1000XL
Logitech Z-560
Wiimote
Mikrotik Router
Linksys (now Cisco) SD2008 8 port Gigabit switch
Linksys WRT54G (acting as AP)
Apple wireless Aluminium keyboard
Apple Magic Mouse
Xbox360 wired controller
That looks like a good one, but it appears to not have WIFI. Doesn't make any difference though, because my router is barely out of the box, and the adapter for the remote computer is still on it's way. So far, I'm happy with it.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
DIY
OS
W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
CPU
Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
Motherboard
ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
Memory
2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Sound Card
Asus Xonar D2X/**Xonar D1
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H, Dell E152FPc /**LG M237-WD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 & 1024x768/**1980x1080
Hard Drives
WDC 2TB, 1.5TB, 1TB, 500GB,Seagate 500GB , Maxtor 80GB /**500GB Seagate & WDC 1TB Black
PSU
CM RS600 w/ APC BX1000G/**Antec 500 TP w/ APC BX1000
Case
HAF922/**Antec 1040IIB
Cooling
3x200mm, 1x140 and 1x120mm/**5x80mm fans
Keyboard
Logitech Media USB/**Saitek Eclipse
Mouse
Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
Internet Speed
3.3Mbps
Other Info
SB 560 5.1 w/ Sennheiser RS140/**Creative T20 speakers, Dvico FusionHDTV7 Gold RT, Cisco E3000, HP 5510V AIO, Linksys E3000, Belkin F5U237 hub and **F5D8055 adapter
(** = 2nd rig)

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Bruce ... somewhere in his 40's
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 32bit SP1
CPU
Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Quad CPU @ 2.40GHz, 2400 MHz
Motherboard
INTEL/D975XBX2
Memory
4 GB
Graphics Card(s)
ATI Radeon HD 2600 Pro
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung SyncMaster 914v
Screen Resolution
1280 x 1024
Hard Drives
2/500GB each ... ST3500630AS ATA Device.
One is not connected
PSU
Rocketfish 700 W
Case
G.Skill Gigabyte Chassis
Keyboard
Standard PS/2 Keyboard
Mouse
Microsoft PS/2 Mouse
Internet Speed
DSL
Antivirus
Avira Internet Security
Browser
IE 11
Other Info
ATI HDMI Audio
If you read carefully, each of RB-450G's port is an independent interface, meaning you can assign an IP address to EACH and route between interfaces. Plus I haven't seen ANY consumer grade router that has at least one fourth what Mikrotik's software can do... (by the way, fire up virtualbox or Virtual PC, download Mikrotik RouterOS for x86, and try it ro find out).

zzz2496

edit: forgot to add, there are other routerboards that has mini pci slots, so you can add a wifi card in the router if need be, some come with one slot, others have more than one...
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self Built
OS
Windows7 Ultimate 64bit
CPU
Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600
Motherboard
Abit IN9-32X-MMAX
Memory
DDR2 Adata 4GB
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia GeForce GTX 285 1024 and Nvidia GeForce 8800GT 512
Sound Card
Asus Xonar HDAV 1.3
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell 2407WFP and BenQ 2400v and Philips 150v3
Screen Resolution
3840x1200 and 1024x768
Hard Drives
2 WDC 1TB
1 WDC 1.5TB
1 WDC 640GB
1 WDC 320GB
1 Seagate 200GB
PSU
Corsair TX 850W
Case
Cooler Master HAF932
Cooling
Arctic Cooling Freezer Extreme and plenty of fans...
Keyboard
MicrosoftNaturalKeyboard 4000/Apple Alu keyboard/Dinovo mini
Mouse
Logitech G5/MarbleMouseTrackball/PerformanceMX/SpacePilotPRO
Internet Speed
1.5Mbps down/384Kbps up
Other Info
APC SURT 1000XL
Logitech Z-560
Wiimote
Mikrotik Router
Linksys (now Cisco) SD2008 8 port Gigabit switch
Linksys WRT54G (acting as AP)
Apple wireless Aluminium keyboard
Apple Magic Mouse
Xbox360 wired controller
I sort of fit into item 5, but I have to balance that with what I think that I'm capable of managing. I'll start at item 1 and progress as I can.

Disable DHCP

Switching DHCP off and using static IP addressing is no defense against hacking. Anyone snooping the network can usually figure out the pattern that has been used to assign the IP addresses in question and then make a specific request accordingly.
The ABCs of securing your wireless network
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home built
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 32 bit
CPU
Intel(R) Pentium(R) 4 CPU 3.00GHz
Motherboard
ASUS P4P800-VM Motherboard Chipset: Intel 865G + ICH5
Memory
2.50 GB RAM
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA GeForce 7600 GS
Sound Card
SoundMax Integrated Digital Audio (Chip)
Monitor(s) Displays
ViewSonic VX 1962 wm
Screen Resolution
1680 X 1050
Hard Drives
Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 80 GB
ST380215A ATA Device 18.6 GB
Western Digital "My Book" external hard drive 750 GB
Cooling
Fan based
Keyboard
Microsoft Comfort Curve Keyboard 2000 v10 USB
Mouse
Logitec optic USB
Internet Speed
3.01 Mb/s download 0.64 Mb/s upload

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
DIY
OS
W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
CPU
Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
Motherboard
ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
Memory
2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Sound Card
Asus Xonar D2X/**Xonar D1
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H, Dell E152FPc /**LG M237-WD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 & 1024x768/**1980x1080
Hard Drives
WDC 2TB, 1.5TB, 1TB, 500GB,Seagate 500GB , Maxtor 80GB /**500GB Seagate & WDC 1TB Black
PSU
CM RS600 w/ APC BX1000G/**Antec 500 TP w/ APC BX1000
Case
HAF922/**Antec 1040IIB
Cooling
3x200mm, 1x140 and 1x120mm/**5x80mm fans
Keyboard
Logitech Media USB/**Saitek Eclipse
Mouse
Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
Internet Speed
3.3Mbps
Other Info
SB 560 5.1 w/ Sennheiser RS140/**Creative T20 speakers, Dvico FusionHDTV7 Gold RT, Cisco E3000, HP 5510V AIO, Linksys E3000, Belkin F5U237 hub and **F5D8055 adapter
(** = 2nd rig)
The article referenced, seekermeister, is talking about connecting to public hotspots. You are setting up a home network so will not be accessing "Phony access points (APs) that use spoofed service set identifiers."

Although a couple years old, you may want to read The ABCs of securing your wireless network. Also be sure to use a strong password for your wireless network. Set up a security key for a wireless network. Then, as Jonathan said, any hacker still has to get past the Windows logon. In Network and Sharing, limit any files being shared to public and require a password for access.

Curiously, your first link seems to discount the benefit of most settings, other than encryption method. Perhaps I'm making this harder than need be...don't know.

The ABC's link is a couple years old. I provided it for information.

In Network and Sharing, limit any files being shared to public and require a password for access.
This idea throws me somewhat, because I wanted to be able to access any file from either computer. Unless I misunderstand, sharing with the "public" includes other computers on the network...yes/no? I was hoping that within my network access would be simple, but with a hard shell to outside access.

No, not other computers on the network. I meant public folders -- placing music and videos in public folders, and making them accessible but not documents, thereby further protecting any confidential materials.

In fact, if you are only going to use the wireless connection "just for the purpose of giving my secondary computer access to streaming media from the internet," then you don't even need to provide access to the other files.
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 & Windows Vista Ultimate
I sort of fit into item 5, but I have to balance that with what I think that I'm capable of managing. I'll start at item 1 and progress as I can.

Disable DHCP

Switching DHCP off and using static IP addressing is no defense against hacking. Anyone snooping the network can usually figure out the pattern that has been used to assign the IP addresses in question and then make a specific request accordingly.
The ABCs of securing your wireless network

As I said earlier, it's we can't really make a network 100% secure...

Here's a thought. Here, you, a wifi snooper, sniffing wifi AP in a neighborhood. You found one, unsecured, connect to it... then connected. But when you check your IP, Windows (or whatever your OS) used APIPA addessing (the one that starts with 169.x.y.z) indicating no DHCP server. The first to try is 192.x.y.z network, see if it works, do a scan in the subnet. If nothing shows up, use 10.x.y.z, do another scan, etc... What I propose was for our TS to use, let's say, 180.99.99.x network, with 27 bits subnet (that is 255.255.255.224 subnet mask). This will hinder the hacker's attempt to connect to the network.

In my more advanced suggestion (point 5) is like this:
LAN = 180.99.99.x/255.255.255.224, gateway at 180.99.99.29, and use another DNS server, let's say we use 180.99.99.27 and 180.99.99.28 as DNS servers. That alone will slow the so called hacker down... Unless the hacker use packet sniffer and try to look for packets that are running around... But then again, if the WPA2 key is at least 32 characters long with random chars + symbols, it'll be A LOT harder do "crack". If you use dictionary attack, that attack will only work for words in the "dictionary", 32 random gibberish doesn't count as a "dictionary" word... After the hacker succeed, he then needs to scan the network for another host to connect to... This will be the VPN server, the open port is only the VPN server listen port... connecting to this will engage another authentication dialog. Set the VPN server to black list host that failed upon 3rd try... Once he can connect to the first VPN server, the hacker needs to do the process all over again to connect to the next VPN server... urgh... here's the simple "map":

Internet
|
[public IP]Router[180.99.99.29]-->LAN(180.99.99.x/255.255.255.224)
|
Wifi Network honeypot 1, VPN server + Traffic filtering + SNORT server
[15.1.1.x/255.0.0.0]
|
Wifi Network honeypot 2, VPN server + Traffic filtering + SNORT server
[18.25.4.x/255.224.0.0]
|
Wifi Network honeypot 3, VPN server + Traffic filtering + SNORT server
[12.81.3.x/255.255.128.0]
|
Wifi Access point [12.81.3.8/255.255.128.0 Static assigned IP address]
|
[The hacker starts here...]

There...

zzz2496
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self Built
OS
Windows7 Ultimate 64bit
CPU
Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600
Motherboard
Abit IN9-32X-MMAX
Memory
DDR2 Adata 4GB
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia GeForce GTX 285 1024 and Nvidia GeForce 8800GT 512
Sound Card
Asus Xonar HDAV 1.3
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell 2407WFP and BenQ 2400v and Philips 150v3
Screen Resolution
3840x1200 and 1024x768
Hard Drives
2 WDC 1TB
1 WDC 1.5TB
1 WDC 640GB
1 WDC 320GB
1 Seagate 200GB
PSU
Corsair TX 850W
Case
Cooler Master HAF932
Cooling
Arctic Cooling Freezer Extreme and plenty of fans...
Keyboard
MicrosoftNaturalKeyboard 4000/Apple Alu keyboard/Dinovo mini
Mouse
Logitech G5/MarbleMouseTrackball/PerformanceMX/SpacePilotPRO
Internet Speed
1.5Mbps down/384Kbps up
Other Info
APC SURT 1000XL
Logitech Z-560
Wiimote
Mikrotik Router
Linksys (now Cisco) SD2008 8 port Gigabit switch
Linksys WRT54G (acting as AP)
Apple wireless Aluminium keyboard
Apple Magic Mouse
Xbox360 wired controller
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