D SATA Hard Drive disappears after random amount of time.

cheezstik

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My D 200gb SATA hard drive disappears around 1-90 mins while on windows 7. I have tried registry repairs and alot of things. Its not faulty cables because i used to have win Xp on exact same computer but reformatted to windows 7. Rebooting makes the hard drive reappear but it still disappears after a while. It still shows up in the bios though. When it disappears, it is completely gone, even in device manager.

Someone please help, most of my important data is on my 200gb D drive and i only use C for my os and some other things like Firefox because its only 80gb so someone please help :(
 

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Hi cheezstik and welcome to Windows 7 Forums :party:

Did you have this same problem when running XP? Have you tried a different SATA port, and are you using a latching SATA cable? I would consider backing this disk up to an external drive just in case this is indicative of an impending drive failure. If you have SMART enabled for this drive, what is it reporting? Finally, if you have access to a digital multimeter, you could back-probe the power connector to the drive to see if there is a problem from that angle. Be careful that you don't cause a short-circuit whilst doing so.
 

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Hey

Hey dwarf, sorry to be such a newb but i didnt know how to do most of what you just said. I have had it on different ports but they had the same problems and on some ports it didnt even get detected. Xp had no problems at all with the hard drive and at the time I was dual booting xp and 7 and when I went to 7 it would not work but when i went back to xp it would still work fine.
 

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-_-

Gee I love how everyone rushes to answer your questions in this forum -_-
 

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AMD Phenom II X6 1055T
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I seem to be having the same problem (albeit on a Mac) with one of my hard drives - It works fine for some time (usually a few hours) then just disappears. Sometime there is a message saying that it was disconnected without correctly unmounting. Rebooting temporarily fixes it. Is there anything I can do, or should I assume the drive is failing and replace it?
 

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I seem to be having the same problem (albeit on a Mac) with one of my hard drives - It works fine for some time (usually a few hours) then just disappears. Sometime there is a message saying that it was disconnected without correctly unmounting. Rebooting temporarily fixes it. Is there anything I can do, or should I assume the drive is failing and replace it?


I would defenitely replace the drive as a last choice. I would try unplugging the cable that connects your hard drive to your computer (SATA i think i dont know about macs) and then plug it back in firmly. Also some hardware/hard drive fixing/scanning software could help you but i dont know what to recommmend cos your on a mac. Im pretty sure you would have more luck on a mac forum cos as you can see this is a windows 7 forum
 

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AMD Phenom II X6 1055T
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ASUS M4A89GTD PRO / USB3
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420w PSU
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Thermaltake Element T
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Microsoft Sidewinder X6
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Logitech M-U0007
I used to have this problem with one of my hard drives, I fixed the problem by replacing the cable with one that has a latch.
 

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I had a similar problem with a WD 150GB Velociraptor drive which was my Win7 boot drive. It began to flake out and "disappear" (per the BIOS, and also per WinXP which was bootable from a separate hard drive).

Running under WinXP, the drive would simply drop out. Depending on what was going on at the time this might cause WinXP to just hang, or maybe it could limp along and survive without it. But it definitely was an unexpected hardware failure.

Running under Win7 (if I could ever get to boot to it) it might or might not ever make it through the complete boot process. I would turn the machine off, let it "rest", turn it back on... and it might or might not "fix things". Sure seemed like the drive was starting to fail.

Fortunately, I was eventually able to get a reliable backup, so at least I wasn't terrified of losing valuable data.

Then, I disconnected and reconnected the SATA cable, to the drive and also to the motherboard. Kind of made the problem go away... maybe, sometimes.

I then tried another SATA connector on the motherboard. Seemed to work great. Then it started to fail again, a few weeks later.

Deciding it was the drive itself, I finally swapped the drive with a replacement I'd ordered several weeks earlier when I first thought it was the drive that was going... but ultimately concluded (falsely, as it turns out) that it was a bad SATA connector on the motherboard.

Seemed to fix everything, so I decided it was the drive after all.

Then, a few weeks later, it started to flake out again! Grrr!! Obviously, I'd discarded what probably was a perfectly good hard drive.

This time I changed SATA cables, taking a brand new unused one out of a sealed plastic bag. I also tried yet a third SATA connector on the motherboard... hoping this one would be fine.

Knock wood, it's been about three weeks now and everything remains stable. Fingers crossed it remains this way.

So, no real answers to your specific situation in my story. But you just might keep trying things... different SATA connector, different SATA cable, and keep hoping it does the trick. Worst case, replace the drive and hope that fixes it.
 

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Ok i replaced the sata cable with one exactly the same but this one is unused. I cant tell if its fixed or not cos its only been running well for a couple hours so leave this thread open please.
 

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Ok, i still have the same problem. I even tried switching the sata slot from sata 4 to 3 but still exact same problem. I didnt have this problem with xp so maybe its windows 7 driver problems or sata controller. Any more ideas anyone?
 

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Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bitAMD Phenom II X6 1055T4gbAmd Radeon Gigabyte 6850
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit
CPU
AMD Phenom II X6 1055T
Motherboard
ASUS M4A89GTD PRO / USB3
Memory
4gb
Graphics Card(s)
Amd Radeon Gigabyte 6850
Monitor(s) Displays
Sanyo 22XR9DA TV
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1920x1080
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80gb Maxtor,
WD Green 2TB 7200 rpm
PSU
420w PSU
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Thermaltake Element T
Cooling
Stock
Keyboard
Microsoft Sidewinder X6
Mouse
Logitech M-U0007

My Computer My Computer

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Windows 7 Pro x64 (1), Win7 Pro X64 (2)i5-3350p 3.1Ghz/6MB-cache (1); E8400 3.0Ghz/6...8GB PC3-12800 DDR3 (1); 4GB PC3-10600 DDR3 (2)ATI HD7750 (1), (see TV cards); ATI R7 250 (2)
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PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home-built, two systems (1) and (2)
OS
Windows 7 Pro x64 (1), Win7 Pro X64 (2)
CPU
i5-3350p 3.1Ghz/6MB-cache (1); E8400 3.0Ghz/6MB-cache (2)
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z77-V Pro (1); ASUS P5Q3 (2)
Memory
8GB PC3-12800 DDR3 (1); 4GB PC3-10600 DDR3 (2)
Graphics Card(s)
ATI HD7750 (1), (see TV cards); ATI R7 250 (2)
Sound Card
Realtek ALC892 HD Audio (1); Realtek ALC1200 HD Audio (2)
Monitor(s) Displays
Eizo HD2441W LCD, Eizo S2433W (1); Eizo 24" S2433W (2)
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Hard Drives
(1) 1TB SATA-II (7200RPM), 2x2TB SATA-III (7200RPM), 250GB SATA-III (10000RPM) for OS; 2x2TB external USB 3.0

(2) 320GB SATA-II (7200RPM), 750GB SATA-II (7200RPM), 150GB SATA-II (10000RPM) for OS; 2TB external USB 3.0
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You haven't posted the name of the hard drive - find out the make of the drive eg seagate etc then go to the manufactures site - support - and find a utility that will test the drive - with seagate drives you can download 2 types, firstly use the utility that works within windows7 OS to test the drive - if it passes the drive is ok - then you can make a bootable cd with the other utility if necessary, and ground zero the drive to remove every single bit of data from the drive - you then have to re initialise the drive in diskmanagement before you can use it, you then need to create a partition. You would have to back up the data firstly for this, so i would firstly suggest going into diskmanagment and report its status back to see if it can be fixed from there, ie if it passes the the first test, and is not found to be faulty.
If its faulty and under warranty you can send it back to the manufacturer and they will replace the drive with no charge.

You may need to use the bootable cd utility if you have trouble with it finding the disk with the windows 7 OS utility - it has the same tests available, but more which includes wiping the disk to zero.
 

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Could not believe it today when THE SAME THING happened to me again, as has been happening for the past 2 months... nearly identical to this thread's OP's experience.

I had just awakened my ASUS P5Q3 system from hibernation (which I place the system in before walking away, anytime I know I'm not going to need it again for hours or longer) and everything started up fine. Then I got into my email program, received new mail, and clicked on a "+" to open up a thread for which there was a new reply.

Instantly, the "+" expansion process froze, a blank line appeared on the screen, and my system was seemingly frozen... except that the mouse continued to work perfectly. But I could not get into anything else, or open anything else, or elicit any response from the system.

I had a bad feeling about the fact that probably the drive and/or SATA connector/cable I'd been fighting with for 2 months now had probably flaked out again.

Anyway, I took my usual "kick start" approach, of powering the machine off (holding the ON/OFF button for 4 seconds), pulling the power cord out of the machine for a while, plugging the power cord back in, and then restarting the system.

Not surprisingly, there was yet another one of the now-familiar BIOS-related indications that one of my two SATA drives was not functioning correctly... BUT THIS TIME IS WAS MY OTHER ONE!!! Unfortunately, this is not hard disk #2 where I have Win7 installed, but hard disk #1 where I have WinXP installed (and which contains the "active" WinXP partition where boot manager for WinXP and Win7 lives).

This is the same problem as before, but this time for my second SATA drive! Note that throughout all of this my third U320 SCSI drive (on an Adaptec 29320-alp controller) has continued to perform flawlessly. In fact, in my 17 years of building/playing with my PC's, I've never had any trouble with SCSI drives. It's only in the past two years that I've started phasing them out and replacing them with SATA drives that I have begun to see these odd SATA-related anomalies... at least on this one ASUS P5Q3 machine. Fortunately, no such anomalies have ever occurred on my other Supermicro C2SBX HTPC machine (which now has three large SATA drives along with one remaining large U320 SCSI drive on an Adaptec 39320-r controller).

Anyway, quite stunned but undaunted by the now-familiar SATA drive/connector/cable failure, I took my now-familiar second-level attempt at recovery. I once again opened the case, removed and reseated the SATA cable onto the drive connector, pulled and reseated the other end of the SATA cable onto the motherboard connector (without changing SATA ports, just removing and reseating the cable), and then closed everything up and restarted the machine.

Not surprisingly (and very thankfully), now the BIOS had no trouble talking to that hard disk #1 and I was once again able to get to boot manager (from the "active" partition on that drive) and boot to Win7.

Once again... case closed, disaster averted. However I'm now suspicious that the P5Q3 motherboard itself, and its SATA controller, which is perhaps at fault.

My nephew has advised me that there is a known defect in Intel's Southbridge chipset which is at fault, and that there is a "recall" announced. My P5Q3 uses an ICH10R Southbridge chipset to support my 6 SATA ports. I have been unable to find out for myself what he's talking about, but I will phone him today to ask about it.

[EDIT: spoken with him now, and it turns out to be Sandy Bridge, not Southbridge, where this SATA recall issue applies)

Anyway, for me it doesn't now appear to be drive-related, or SATA-connector related, or SATA-cable related, as the same problem has now occurred on BOTH of the SATA drives in my machine, which have been plugged into 4 of the 6 connectors on the board, all of which have begun to "fail" the same way over the past 2 months.

Very suspicious.
 

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Windows 7 Pro x64 (1), Win7 Pro X64 (2)i5-3350p 3.1Ghz/6MB-cache (1); E8400 3.0Ghz/6...8GB PC3-12800 DDR3 (1); 4GB PC3-10600 DDR3 (2)ATI HD7750 (1), (see TV cards); ATI R7 250 (2)
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home-built, two systems (1) and (2)
OS
Windows 7 Pro x64 (1), Win7 Pro X64 (2)
CPU
i5-3350p 3.1Ghz/6MB-cache (1); E8400 3.0Ghz/6MB-cache (2)
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z77-V Pro (1); ASUS P5Q3 (2)
Memory
8GB PC3-12800 DDR3 (1); 4GB PC3-10600 DDR3 (2)
Graphics Card(s)
ATI HD7750 (1), (see TV cards); ATI R7 250 (2)
Sound Card
Realtek ALC892 HD Audio (1); Realtek ALC1200 HD Audio (2)
Monitor(s) Displays
Eizo HD2441W LCD, Eizo S2433W (1); Eizo 24" S2433W (2)
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1920x1200, 1920x1200 (1); 1920x1200 (2)
Hard Drives
(1) 1TB SATA-II (7200RPM), 2x2TB SATA-III (7200RPM), 250GB SATA-III (10000RPM) for OS; 2x2TB external USB 3.0

(2) 320GB SATA-II (7200RPM), 750GB SATA-II (7200RPM), 150GB SATA-II (10000RPM) for OS; 2TB external USB 3.0
PSU
Nesteq ECS-6001 600W (1); Nesteq ECS-5001 500W (2)
Case
Acousti-Case 360 (1) and (2)
Cooling
Noctua NH-U12P SE2 for CPU, 2x120mm case fans (1) and (2)
Keyboard
IBM PS/2 (1) and (2)
Mouse
Logitech MX Revolution wireless (1); Microsoft wired (2)
Internet Speed
100mbps down / 10mbps up
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials; Malwarebyte Anti-Malware Pro
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
Ceton InfiniTV 4-tuner cablecard-enabled TV card as well as Hauppauge HVR-2250 OTA/ATSC 2-tuner TV card in (1), running under Win7 WMC
You haven't posted the name of the hard drive - find out the make of the drive eg seagate etc then go to the manufactures site - support - and find a utility that will test the drive - with seagate drives you can download 2 types, firstly use the utility that works within windows7 OS to test the drive - if it passes the drive is ok - then you can make a bootable cd with the other utility if necessary, and ground zero the drive to remove every single bit of data from the drive - you then have to re initialise the drive in diskmanagement before you can use it, you then need to create a partition. You would have to back up the data firstly for this, so i would firstly suggest going into diskmanagment and report its status back to see if it can be fixed from there, ie if it passes the the first test, and is not found to be faulty.
If its faulty and under warranty you can send it back to the manufacturer and they will replace the drive with no charge.

You may need to use the bootable cd utility if you have trouble with it finding the disk with the windows 7 OS utility - it has the same tests available, but more which includes wiping the disk to zero.

The hard drive is seagate barracuda 7200.5 200gb. Its not very popular and you probably wont find much hits on google. It came as a secondary drive to an old 2005 intel desktop and i just put it in my new custom built pc because 80gb isnt anywhere near enough for me and my primary drive right now is already nearly full.
 

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Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bitAMD Phenom II X6 1055T4gbAmd Radeon Gigabyte 6850
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit
CPU
AMD Phenom II X6 1055T
Motherboard
ASUS M4A89GTD PRO / USB3
Memory
4gb
Graphics Card(s)
Amd Radeon Gigabyte 6850
Monitor(s) Displays
Sanyo 22XR9DA TV
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
80gb Maxtor,
WD Green 2TB 7200 rpm
PSU
420w PSU
Case
Thermaltake Element T
Cooling
Stock
Keyboard
Microsoft Sidewinder X6
Mouse
Logitech M-U0007
Im using seatools to do certain scans on my barracuda now. I just finished smart test and it said it was ok.
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bitAMD Phenom II X6 1055T4gbAmd Radeon Gigabyte 6850
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit
CPU
AMD Phenom II X6 1055T
Motherboard
ASUS M4A89GTD PRO / USB3
Memory
4gb
Graphics Card(s)
Amd Radeon Gigabyte 6850
Monitor(s) Displays
Sanyo 22XR9DA TV
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
80gb Maxtor,
WD Green 2TB 7200 rpm
PSU
420w PSU
Case
Thermaltake Element T
Cooling
Stock
Keyboard
Microsoft Sidewinder X6
Mouse
Logitech M-U0007
Do the short drive self test and then the long one if it passes the short test- mine passed the smart test but failed the short test - then i had it replaced without charge. If it passes whatever is wrong with it will be fixed if you wipe the disk to zero using the bootable cd.
 

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XP, Vista, W7 64bit Home PremiumIntel Core Duo 6850 3.0 ghz @ 3.7 ghz4GB Corsair DDR 2 PC-6400Ati 4870 1ghz
OS
XP, Vista, W7 64bit Home Premium
CPU
Intel Core Duo 6850 3.0 ghz @ 3.7 ghz
Motherboard
Asus P5E
Memory
4GB Corsair DDR 2 PC-6400
Graphics Card(s)
Ati 4870 1ghz
Sound Card
Supreme FX 11
Monitor(s) Displays
View Sonic VX1962wm
Screen Resolution
1680 X1050
Hard Drives
3 Seagate Sata Drives 160gb 250gb 500gb
PSU
Thermaltake 600 watt
Case
NZXT Alpha
Cooling
3X120cm Fans
Keyboard
Microsoft Digital Media Pro Keyboard
Mouse
Microsoft Wheel Mouse Optical
Internet Speed
1.5Mb to 8Mb/384k

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XP, Vista, W7 64bit Home PremiumIntel Core Duo 6850 3.0 ghz @ 3.7 ghz4GB Corsair DDR 2 PC-6400Ati 4870 1ghz
OS
XP, Vista, W7 64bit Home Premium
CPU
Intel Core Duo 6850 3.0 ghz @ 3.7 ghz
Motherboard
Asus P5E
Memory
4GB Corsair DDR 2 PC-6400
Graphics Card(s)
Ati 4870 1ghz
Sound Card
Supreme FX 11
Monitor(s) Displays
View Sonic VX1962wm
Screen Resolution
1680 X1050
Hard Drives
3 Seagate Sata Drives 160gb 250gb 500gb
PSU
Thermaltake 600 watt
Case
NZXT Alpha
Cooling
3X120cm Fans
Keyboard
Microsoft Digital Media Pro Keyboard
Mouse
Microsoft Wheel Mouse Optical
Internet Speed
1.5Mb to 8Mb/384k
Any more ideas anyone?
Have you considered getting a replacement drive? Maybe it's just aging.

I experienced similar problem with WD Caviar Green 750 GB first and, after replacing the unit by Seagate 1TB problem moved to WD Caviar Green 1TB. The 750 GB HD was not faulty even tough when the HD was recovered after disappearing the Acronis Data Lifeguard reported errors in the short test sometimes. Now I am using this dummy faulty disk as external one via USB interface and I have not experienced any problem.
Looking at the MS support (You receive various Stop error messages in Windows 7 or in Windows Server 2008 R2 when you try to resume a computer that has a large SATA hard disk), and after replacing cables, connectors, avoiding hibernation, HD sleeping and so one, I understood that problem could be generated by problems on the HD power. I realized that I was feeding 4 units via one single output of the power supply (I added two additional connectors to the two standard ones). Three weeks ago I reconfigured the power scheme using two power supply outputs, each one feeding only 2 units as per standard configuration, and problem has disappeared (at least for the moment).
I have not tested via oscilloscope but probably the current peaks appearing during big HDs activity exceeds the power supply capabilities and disk is not able to get the running status inside the expected leadtime. I have a 450 watts power supply which, could be, is stressed enough with all installed devices.
I hope this helps you.
Best regards. Jose.
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

win7 Home Premium 64 bits
OS
win7 Home Premium 64 bits
it's still an issue

i have the same issues, it's hard to say what the issue is, but one thing is sure in my case: it's not the drive dying (smart test shows less then 1 hour of uptime, it's brand new.)

to answer someone's question about a usb connected drive: yes it will work fine and at full capacity without issue, as the sata controller will be in the drive it's self, and usb doesn't care if it's 4 bytes, 4 TB, or 4 EB it's all the same to USB.

someone said it was possibly power related, they only have a 450 watt power supply, which is low these days with all the stuff we put in our computers. I have a 1000 watt power supply in my build, my lowest power supply is 250 watts. (an old 98/xp computer)

anyway there's still an issue with this type of problem it seams. after a few hours it's just "gone".

anyone have anything new to shed on this?

t
 

My Computer My Computer

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win 7 ult x64 ; winxp ; winxp 64amd / intelvaries by systemvaries by systems
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
custom builds
OS
win 7 ult x64 ; winxp ; winxp 64
CPU
amd / intel
Motherboard
many different builds
Memory
varies by system
Graphics Card(s)
varies by systems
Hard Drives
WD's mostly with a few other brands
Hi,

Problem fully disappeared after power reconfiguration. I maintained the 450 W power supply for more than one year till it died and it was replaced by a 700W.

After this incident I have replaced several times the HDs in order to increase the storage capacity (I am using the involved PC as a data repository) but I maintained all time the same cables.

Last week I experienced again the problem, affecting a 2TB WD green unit. The root, in this case, was the signal cable due to the fact that the connector did not fit in a secure way (slight movement). I replaced the cable by a brand new one and problem was solved. Now the cable connector does not move.

I hope this helps you.

Best regards. Jose.

 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

win7 Home Premium 64 bits
OS
win7 Home Premium 64 bits
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