Computer doesn't start cant get into bios or advanced start up setting

gregrocker love your responds " Where in the tutorial did it say to short the pins with a screwdriver? " checked some information on the internet found two pins on the board where i should put a jumper on to reset (since there was no bottom on the cmos reset pins) then i did some search on the internet and saw that several have used some metal object to lead the charge from one pin to the other. which is basically what the jumper does.
Tried it and now it is killed..
Currently looking at ways to check my PSU to see if it is dead.
think i need to get in touch with someone that has a functional stationer and is willing to test it on my computer to figure out what is wrong.
will try to get my hands on a repair disc since i cant find mine.
Thanks for your time guys, gonna try my luck in the hardware apartment, when my computer got a pulse again i will come back and whine here if i can't figure the things out.
hehe just crap that i can't afford having my computer dead :banghead:
 

My Computer My Computer

OS
Windows Ultimate x64
Would you believe it,that its suggested in his manual to short-circuit his jumper with a screwdriver?I ll just show it to you
View attachment 232585
 
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My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Homebuilt,Quadcore processor on Asus MB
OS
Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit Service Pack 1
CPU
Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Quad Q 9550 @ 2.83 GHz
Motherboard
ASUS P5B-Deluxe Wi-Fi Edition
Memory
4x1024 GB DDR2 Corsair PC2-6400 800 Mhz
Graphics Card(s)
MSI TwiFrozer II 1024MB GDDR5
Sound Card
Realtek ALC883 @ Intel 82801HB ICH8 - High Def
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus VW195 [19" LCD]
Screen Resolution
1440x860 pixels
Hard Drives
OCZ Vertex Plus Series SATA II 2.5" SSD 128GB-

Westarn Digital SATA II 250GB
PSU
Corsair CX600W
Case
Custom built,cut and painted
Cooling
Xigmatek Gaia 2x120mm fan
Keyboard
MS Generic
Mouse
MS Optical 6000
Internet Speed
never enough
Antivirus
ESET Smart Security 6.0.306.0
In that case I would contact the mobo manufacturer to ask what has happened when following their procedure from Manual, which is located on it's Support Downloads webpage.
 
Normally, even when there are only two pins, the plastic jumper will still be there, only connected to one pin. Inside the plastic shell is a metal contact that shorts whatever two pins its connected to. Shorting the two pins with a metal object is the same as putting the jumper on and then taking it back off again. If the power supply is unplugged, and any residual power drained, nothing bad should happen when you short the pins. Pressing the power button with the supply unplugged will drain off any residual power. The only other thing to watch out for is a static discharge when using a screwdriver or other similar device. If you fingers are touching the metal shaft a static discharge can happen and damage the motherboard. That's why the jumpers have a non conductive shell. CMOS chips are especially susceptible to static discharge damage. It sounds like, even though proper procedures were followed that something got damaged on the motherboard.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built
OS
Windows 10 Education 64 bit
CPU
AMD Phenom II X4 980 Black Edition Deneb 3.7GHz
Motherboard
Asus M4N68T-M V2 µATX Motherboard
Memory
8GB 4GBx2 Kingston PC10600 DDR3 1333 Memory
Graphics Card(s)
Zotac NVIDIA Geforce GT640 2 Gig DDR3 PCIe
Sound Card
VIA VT1708s High Definition Audio 8-channel Onboard
Monitor(s) Displays
22" LG E2242 1080p and 2 19" I-INC AG191D
Screen Resolution
1280x1024 - 1920x1080 - 1280x1024
Hard Drives
Crucial M100 256 GB SSD and 500 GB WD Blue SATA
PSU
Thermaltake TR 620
Case
Power Up Black ATX Mid-Tower Case
Cooling
Stock heatsink and fan
Keyboard
Logitech Wireless K350 Wave
Mouse
Logitech Wireless M570 Trackman Wheel
Internet Speed
80 Mbps Down 30 Mbps Up
Antivirus
Windows Defender
Browser
Internet Explorer 11
Other Info
HP DVD1040e Lightscribe - External USB2
Just bought a new motherboard, and it didn't fix anything still totally dead..
Might be malfunctional motherboard I've bought but most likely is the problem else where.. what would you do now in this situation if you were in it?... Return the motherboard and maybe try to buy a new power supply?
 

My Computer My Computer

OS
Windows Ultimate x64
If it was me I would try to borrow a power supply and try it with the new motherboard. If it now works, put the old motherboard back in and make sure it works before you return the new one. Also try a different power cord in the power supply. I've had one of those actually fail on me and it was the last thing I suspected. It had me scratching my head for a while.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built
OS
Windows 10 Education 64 bit
CPU
AMD Phenom II X4 980 Black Edition Deneb 3.7GHz
Motherboard
Asus M4N68T-M V2 µATX Motherboard
Memory
8GB 4GBx2 Kingston PC10600 DDR3 1333 Memory
Graphics Card(s)
Zotac NVIDIA Geforce GT640 2 Gig DDR3 PCIe
Sound Card
VIA VT1708s High Definition Audio 8-channel Onboard
Monitor(s) Displays
22" LG E2242 1080p and 2 19" I-INC AG191D
Screen Resolution
1280x1024 - 1920x1080 - 1280x1024
Hard Drives
Crucial M100 256 GB SSD and 500 GB WD Blue SATA
PSU
Thermaltake TR 620
Case
Power Up Black ATX Mid-Tower Case
Cooling
Stock heatsink and fan
Keyboard
Logitech Wireless K350 Wave
Mouse
Logitech Wireless M570 Trackman Wheel
Internet Speed
80 Mbps Down 30 Mbps Up
Antivirus
Windows Defender
Browser
Internet Explorer 11
Other Info
HP DVD1040e Lightscribe - External USB2
Also pick up a PS2 keyboard if you don't have one. That is if you don't have one. It makes things like this easier. I checked your specs and motherboard you posted and that board has a PS2 capability.
 
Last edited:

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home made Desktop
OS
Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pro/64
CPU
Intel i7-6800K @ 4.3
Motherboard
ASUS X-99 Deluxe II
Memory
Corsair Platinum 16 gig @2400
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 OC
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus 27" LED LCD/VE278Q
Screen Resolution
1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI
Hard Drives
INTEL SSD 730-240 Gb Sata 3.0/
PSU
EVGA Platium 1200W
Case
Phanteks Luxe Tempered Glass 8 fans/ one radiator
Cooling
XSPC/ Water Cooled CPU
Keyboard
Das 4 Professional
Mouse
Logitech M705/MX Anywhere 2-S
Internet Speed
100 mbits
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/ Malwarebytes Premium 3.0/ SAS
Browser
I.E. 11 default/Firefox/ ISP Time Warner Cable/Spectrum
Other Info
LG BluRay Burner/
Sound system-KLipsch-THX/
Icy Dock ssd Hot Swap bays.
You meant PS2 Keyboard, didn't you? It can be a pain sometimes getting into the BIOS with a USB keyboard on some motherboards. That's why I keep and old generic PS2 keyboard in the closet.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built
OS
Windows 10 Education 64 bit
CPU
AMD Phenom II X4 980 Black Edition Deneb 3.7GHz
Motherboard
Asus M4N68T-M V2 µATX Motherboard
Memory
8GB 4GBx2 Kingston PC10600 DDR3 1333 Memory
Graphics Card(s)
Zotac NVIDIA Geforce GT640 2 Gig DDR3 PCIe
Sound Card
VIA VT1708s High Definition Audio 8-channel Onboard
Monitor(s) Displays
22" LG E2242 1080p and 2 19" I-INC AG191D
Screen Resolution
1280x1024 - 1920x1080 - 1280x1024
Hard Drives
Crucial M100 256 GB SSD and 500 GB WD Blue SATA
PSU
Thermaltake TR 620
Case
Power Up Black ATX Mid-Tower Case
Cooling
Stock heatsink and fan
Keyboard
Logitech Wireless K350 Wave
Mouse
Logitech Wireless M570 Trackman Wheel
Internet Speed
80 Mbps Down 30 Mbps Up
Antivirus
Windows Defender
Browser
Internet Explorer 11
Other Info
HP DVD1040e Lightscribe - External USB2
Cant the operator just do the paperclip test with a molex fan for makin sure the PSU powers up?
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Homebuilt,Quadcore processor on Asus MB
OS
Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit Service Pack 1
CPU
Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Quad Q 9550 @ 2.83 GHz
Motherboard
ASUS P5B-Deluxe Wi-Fi Edition
Memory
4x1024 GB DDR2 Corsair PC2-6400 800 Mhz
Graphics Card(s)
MSI TwiFrozer II 1024MB GDDR5
Sound Card
Realtek ALC883 @ Intel 82801HB ICH8 - High Def
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus VW195 [19" LCD]
Screen Resolution
1440x860 pixels
Hard Drives
OCZ Vertex Plus Series SATA II 2.5" SSD 128GB-

Westarn Digital SATA II 250GB
PSU
Corsair CX600W
Case
Custom built,cut and painted
Cooling
Xigmatek Gaia 2x120mm fan
Keyboard
MS Generic
Mouse
MS Optical 6000
Internet Speed
never enough
Antivirus
ESET Smart Security 6.0.306.0
You meant PS2 Keyboard, didn't you? It can be a pain sometimes getting into the BIOS with a USB keyboard on some motherboards. That's why I keep and old generic PS2 keyboard in the closet.
------------
Sorry I changed it to keyboard.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home made Desktop
OS
Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pro/64
CPU
Intel i7-6800K @ 4.3
Motherboard
ASUS X-99 Deluxe II
Memory
Corsair Platinum 16 gig @2400
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 OC
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus 27" LED LCD/VE278Q
Screen Resolution
1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI
Hard Drives
INTEL SSD 730-240 Gb Sata 3.0/
PSU
EVGA Platium 1200W
Case
Phanteks Luxe Tempered Glass 8 fans/ one radiator
Cooling
XSPC/ Water Cooled CPU
Keyboard
Das 4 Professional
Mouse
Logitech M705/MX Anywhere 2-S
Internet Speed
100 mbits
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/ Malwarebytes Premium 3.0/ SAS
Browser
I.E. 11 default/Firefox/ ISP Time Warner Cable/Spectrum
Other Info
LG BluRay Burner/
Sound system-KLipsch-THX/
Icy Dock ssd Hot Swap bays.
Also try a different power cord in the power supply. I've had one of those actually fail on me and it was the last thing I suspected. It had me scratching my head for a while.

Agreed.
I had boot problems caused by a broken power wire or dodgy power connector on one of my optical drives.
The drive couldn't power up and that prevented Windows from booting (somehow).
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
n/a
OS
W7 Ultimate SP1, LM19.2 MATE, W10 Home 1703, W10 Pro 1703 VM, #All 64 bit
CPU
AMD Phenom II x6 1100T, 3.3 GHz
Motherboard
ASUS M4A88T-M/USB3 (AM3)
Memory
12GB DDR3 1333 G-Skill (4GB x 2), G-Skill (2GB x 2)
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660
Sound Card
Realtek?
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung S23B350
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
WD Green 2TB (SATA), WD Green 3TB (SATA), WD Blue 4TB (SATA), WD Blue 6TB (SATA)
PSU
Cooler Master
Case
Antec GX300 Tower
Cooling
3x Antec TRICOOL 120mm Fans
Mouse
Wired Optical
Internet Speed
DSL
Antivirus
Avast
Browser
Pale Moon (64 bit)
Other Info
2018-12-27 Upgraded HDDs
2015-12-10 Upgraded case, graphics card, storage
2015-08-15 Upgraded motherboard & RAM
2015-07-15 Upgraded LM17.1 to LM17.2
Cant the operator just do the paperclip test with a molex fan for makin sure the PSU powers up?
---------------
To answer your question; all that test is the switching to prove the power supply turns on and can power a fan. It does not prove that it can power up everything else in the computer. You can buy a power supply tester which puts a simulated load on the power supply or most computer repair shops have one for testing power supplies.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home made Desktop
OS
Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pro/64
CPU
Intel i7-6800K @ 4.3
Motherboard
ASUS X-99 Deluxe II
Memory
Corsair Platinum 16 gig @2400
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 OC
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus 27" LED LCD/VE278Q
Screen Resolution
1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI
Hard Drives
INTEL SSD 730-240 Gb Sata 3.0/
PSU
EVGA Platium 1200W
Case
Phanteks Luxe Tempered Glass 8 fans/ one radiator
Cooling
XSPC/ Water Cooled CPU
Keyboard
Das 4 Professional
Mouse
Logitech M705/MX Anywhere 2-S
Internet Speed
100 mbits
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/ Malwarebytes Premium 3.0/ SAS
Browser
I.E. 11 default/Firefox/ ISP Time Warner Cable/Spectrum
Other Info
LG BluRay Burner/
Sound system-KLipsch-THX/
Icy Dock ssd Hot Swap bays.
Cant the operator just do the paperclip test with a molex fan for makin sure the PSU powers up?
---------------
To answer your question; all that test is the switching to prove the power supply turns on and can power a fan. It does not prove that it can power up everything else in the computer. You can buy a power supply tester which puts a simulated load on the power supply or most computer repair shops have one for testing power supplies.

Exactly, Its a quick and dirty test to see if its completely shot. If it won't turn on thats a very good sign that you need a new power supply. Even if it does turn on, it could still have issues. I do believe the OP has already done that. There are two threads on the go dealing with this problem.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built
OS
Windows 10 Education 64 bit
CPU
AMD Phenom II X4 980 Black Edition Deneb 3.7GHz
Motherboard
Asus M4N68T-M V2 µATX Motherboard
Memory
8GB 4GBx2 Kingston PC10600 DDR3 1333 Memory
Graphics Card(s)
Zotac NVIDIA Geforce GT640 2 Gig DDR3 PCIe
Sound Card
VIA VT1708s High Definition Audio 8-channel Onboard
Monitor(s) Displays
22" LG E2242 1080p and 2 19" I-INC AG191D
Screen Resolution
1280x1024 - 1920x1080 - 1280x1024
Hard Drives
Crucial M100 256 GB SSD and 500 GB WD Blue SATA
PSU
Thermaltake TR 620
Case
Power Up Black ATX Mid-Tower Case
Cooling
Stock heatsink and fan
Keyboard
Logitech Wireless K350 Wave
Mouse
Logitech Wireless M570 Trackman Wheel
Internet Speed
80 Mbps Down 30 Mbps Up
Antivirus
Windows Defender
Browser
Internet Explorer 11
Other Info
HP DVD1040e Lightscribe - External USB2
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