SSD Tweaks and Optimizations in Windows 7

Hello to all my fellow and future users of SSD drives and Windows 7.
I wanted to set up an area with real-world tips on getting the most out of your SSD and the Windows 7 operating system. I will separate each type of tip to its own message to keep things easier to read and to follow.

All of this has been tested on my laptop system, configured as follows:
HP DV2270us, Core 2 qual 2ghz, 4 Gig RAM.
Disk 0: Patriot M28 64-gig SSD 240MBs (Boot drive), Disk 1: Seagate ST9500420AS 500 Gig 100MBs second drive.
Windows 7 ultimate 64-bit.
Machine is used all day every day at work and home, lots of virtual machines running.

These suggestions are just the way I choose to set things up and get GREAT performance and utilize the SSD to its fullest potential. Your mileage may and probably vary. The tutorials and suggestions are not meant to be debated, its all up to you to decide if you want to try them or not.
All standard disclaimers apply... I am not responsible for breaking your stuff, only mine.
With all that said, on with the tutorials...:party:
FYI, lightningltd here (me) and magic-man on other forums are one in the same, So I am posting this tutorial here with my permission. :what:




This tutorial is for those who are already running Windows 7 on their SSD as a boot drive. If like me, you first installed to hard drive then used an image backup program to put the OS on the SSD, then this step is necessary to allow Windows 7 to set the proper settings for SSD use and set things up for optimizing the OS after burning the firmware and/or cleaning the drive to factory specs. If you installed directly to the your SSD, you don't need to follow this step, but it can be helpful if you followed the XP and vista SSD guides and things just aren't up to snuff.

*** read all the steps first so you can create the images and boot USB and CD/DVD and print the instructions before you start***

FIRST.... MAKE A BACKUP IMAGE just in case!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Be sure to create the restore disk, too.

Basically, you need to do a repair install of Windows 7 so Windows can set itself up properly for SSD use. The following link will step you through this step:
http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/3413-repair-install.html
When done, we need to verify that TRIM is active. At a command prompt (start/run/cmd), type the following: fsutil.exe behavior query DisableDeleteNotify

It should respond back with DisableDeleteNotify=0 if trim support is ready and active. If it is not, type fsutil.exe behavior set DisableDeleteNotify 0

This will set Windows 7 to use TRIM when the drive and drivers are ready to do so.

Next, we need to make sure our ATA/ATAPI ACHI controller is set to use trim.
EDIT! 3/22/10: The new INTEL chipset drivers 9.6.0.1014 support TRIM! Use these instead of the MS AHCI ones for Intel Chipsets.
RAID: Intel® Rapid Storage Technology Driver for Intel Desktop Boards

For non-intel chipsets:
To see/change it, go to device manager and select IDE ATA/ATAPI controllers. If it says "Standard AHCI 1.0 Serial ATA Controller", you are good to go. If not, double click it and select the driver tab. Click update driver. Select browse. Select let me pick. select Standard AHCI 1.0 Serial ATA Controller.

Once it has reboot and all is fine, then U can go on to the next step (after making an IMAGE backup of the whole SSD with the new changes (I use Windows backup)).

This step is necessary IF you have been using the SSD for a while before updating the firmware and/or want to return performance back to factory fresh (this will fix isues created if you ran 'tony-trim' method on another site). I did it right after the firmware update since it will ERASE the entire SSD, losing all data. It is called an ATA secure erase for a reason.
some of the firmware update tools do not issue the proper ATA secure erase command when they are done (Like the samsung), so the SSD will 'inherit' any performance issues it had before. Using this method resets all the memory cells to factory values.

IF you just pulled the SSD out of the box and updated it, or have never used it, then this step is NOT NEEDED.
Remember! Make sure U have that image backup I keep yelling about, you WILL lose everything on the SSD if you haven't already!

Download and print the instructions from http://ata.wiki.kernel.org/index.php/ATA_Secure_Erase
Get the lin*x boot image from http://partedmagic.com/ and burn it to a CD/DVD.
Boot to the CD/DVD and click the bottom where it looks like a black window (prompt).
Follow the instructions you just printed. On my laptop, I had to unplug the SSD while the OS was running and plug it back in real quick to make it not be frozen as in the instructions.

When all done, you have a nice empty clean SSD to restore your image to!
Restore the image to the drive and boot up.

See U at the next part... Optimizing Windows 7 for the SSD!




Now that you have gotten everything done as far as firmware, and image restored and have a working Windows 7, we can do some things to make Windows 7 a bit 'friendlier' to your SSD and make things faster to boot.

FWIW, Microsoft did a great job in pre-optimizing Windows 7 for SSD use. Except for installation, over 95% of Windows 7 operations are READS, perfect for your SSD. You COULD just use it as is and things would be fantastic. BUT, there are some things to verify first.....

1: Verify that TRIM is enabled as in the prior messages.
2: Make sure your AHCI controller is using a TRIM compliant driver as in the prior messages.
3: Make sure the defrag program is disabled for the SSD... Admin tools/Services set Disk Defragmenter to disabled. I use auslogics disk defrag (free) for my other drives manually. U almost never have to defrag an SSD. It can lower its life expectancy.
4: Page File. There has been much debate about this. The idea that no one needs a page file is a bunch of crap. I have tried it both ways, moitoring writes and reads, and YES, it IS used even with 8 Gigs of RAM. I left mine at 2 Gigs, but it is just fine at 1 Gig. Writes to the page file are sequential now. Page file is also read at boot time to speed things. Keep it on your SSD where it belongs.
5: Superfetch/prefetch/bootfetch: Windows 7 does not always turn it all off as it should. The purpose of these things are to pre-load the programs you load from slow hard drive to fast memory (cache) in case you want to run them. With your SSD, there is no need. We will disable them and free up some memory and resources and stop a LOT of writes to the SSD.
To disable Superfetch, etc: Admin tools/Services. Select superfetch and set to disabled.
Run regedit and change the following values: HKLM/System/CurrentControlset/Control/Session Manager/Memory Management/Prefetch Parameters and change the key valus of Enableboottrace, enableprefetcher, enablesuperfetch all to 0 and exit regedit.

This will disable MOST of the superfetch/prefetch stuff... The boot prefetch will get disabled in the next part along with some un-necessary logging that is done (and writes a lot).




Now on to some things we can do to reduce some on the unnecessary writes to the SSD. Windows 7 has the most event logs that I have seen of any OS. If you are having issues, then I would not change the logging options. If not, then we can stop a lot of writes that frankly, only an engineer would need (we leave the basic event logs alone).
Go to start/admin tools and select performance monitor. Expand data collector sets. Click on Startup Event Trace Sessions.
With the exception of the following NECESSARY logs (Application, Security, System, Security Essentials) we can stop them from starting. To do so, right click on each one that has a status of Enabled (except the ones mentioned above) and select Properties. Click the Trace Session tab. Unselect Enabled. Click Ok. Repeat for the others (including readyboot).
After your next boot, you will have a lot less writes going to the SSD that are not needed.

Write caching... Enable on the SSD: http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/10392-write-caching-enable-disable.html
TEMP FILES... IF you have another NON SSD drive installed, I would move the TEMP and temporary internet files to them (next message(tutorial page)).

Since I have Windows 7 make an image backup of the SSD to my other drive every day (only takes a few minutes and very little resources), I completely turn off system protection (system restore).

You can also turn off Windows reliability monitor. I will post a short tutorial if you want. It does quite a bit of writing too, but only every few hours.

There are some other more advanced things I do, but to be honest, they result in very little speed increase (less than 5%).
how do you "TEMP FILES... IF you have another NON SSD drive installed, I would move the TEMP and temporary internet files to them."
another question: doesn't superfetch run in the ram?
one more question: what do you find you need the paging file for with 8 gb ram? i have found ive never needed it for anything just curious why you think this or what you have found that needs it
Changing location of temp files: http://ask-leo.com/how_do_i_change_the_location_of_windows_temporary_files.html
Changing location of IE temp files: Move Temporary Internet Files Folder - Internet Explorer 7 Misc
Superfetch does run in Ram, but it also does a lot of reading and writing. Remember, the object of superfetch is to copy program stubs from SLOW hard disk to fast RAM. With an SSD, this is not needed, since the SSD reads so fast. I recommend you try it with it on, then try it with the service disabled. You likely will not see any slow down, actually a speed up since more RAM is available for other things and there will be a marked decrease in disk writes/accesses.

Windows 7 does use the page file IF PRESENT to keep things effecient. Several programs use it like VMWARE, some games, graphics software, MS office, etc... It will only use it when it is effecient to do so. With 8 Gigs of RAM a 1 GIG page file is plenty. Remember: the page file in Windows 7 is more sequential now, and therefore much more efficient. One of my MS sources also told me that there is some cached boot code in it to speed up boot, but to be honest, I haven't seen a difference. I can tell you that it IS smoother with even a 512 Meg page file on the SSD.
Try it both ways with your read-world load and decide for yourself. There is no bench-mark for it other than your gut. That is why it is so debated.

could you also explain: You can also turn off Windows reliability monitor

Admin tools, open task scheduler. expand task scheduler library, then Microsoft, then Windows. Scroll down and click on RAC. Go to the top and select View then show hidden tasks IF RACTASK is not showing. Right click on RacTask and select disable. To re-enable it, you right click it and select enable.
Here is the good part.... disabling it stops it from PROCESSING reliability data and errors for reliability viewer. The data is still collected in the logs, just stored effeciently. You can re-enable it and see the reliability stuff when U wish. Disabling it saved RAM and some drive churning until U need to look at it.

There are some other more advanced things I do, but to be honest, they result in very little speed increase (less than 5%).
please share

Some of what I do is not limited to SSD, but overall OS optimization...
Services... I used the black viper guide and got mine trimmed down some without losing functionality of Win 7... I like it the way it is (almost). U can read up on what each service does and decide for yourself...
http://www.blackviper.com/Windows_7/servicecfg.htm

However, here are the services on my machine (laptop):

View attachment w7srvcs.txt
Tab separated file with MY service config...
 
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Hello msalton,

Yep, it's still valid though today's SSDs are a lot less bothered by reads and writes since most include built-in TRIM. :)

Thanks, Brink. :)
 

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You're welcome. :)
 

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hi...back again :). I've applied many of these tweaks, moving some user dirs, turning off log files, etc., also changing environment variables to point the Temp files to a "scratch partition" on a mechanical drive just for the purpose of temp files.

I've noticed, however, that User temp files found in username\\AppData\Local\Temp aren't mentioned. I've added that dir to Ccleaner's custom inclusions (along with the scratch partition's temp files, since windows still doesn't seem to clean up), but it would be nice to reduce writes further by moving it off of C:. Is there a way to do this, or is it counter-productive to move that folder?

Thanks!

Also, what's the deal with all of the class ID looking folders ( {0C9BDD1E-FD79-476E-AF6C-BAA35C4AAD6D} ) under Username\AppData\Local? MSE? There are 61 of them ATM. Anything to worry about?
 

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Installing to Samsung 860 EVO 500GB
WD Black 2 TB & 1 TB
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Hello thank you very much for this tutorial! it's great. I recently install a x64 version of windows to my pc. 60gbSSD 2tb WD black. is there a way to move the windows update folder safely? I tried moving and then making a junction in safe mode for the 'SoftwareDistribution' folder. However this led to a non-working windows updater. (it would simply show a red x and state it was unable to check for updates) As soon as I placed the SoftwareDistribution folder back on C:, windows update worked again. Thanks!
 

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To check the alignment type msinfo32 into start/search and hit Enter. Then in the left pane open Components, then Storage and go to Disks. There you can see the offset.

Just came across this thread and checking my alignment.

What should I have?

My Partition Starting Offset is - 1,048,576 bytes

Is it aligned ok??

NVM guys, I read in a previous post within the thread that number for a Samsung drive is correct. Mine is a Samsung SSD 830.
 
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Seriously impressed with the difference adding an SSD has made to my old [Oct 2009] Dell XPS 16. Feels like its good to go now for a few more year. Boots in about 20 seconds, and shuts down in about 5 seconds...Love it.

Other than some tweaks mentioned here, I have a question regarding the ACHI driver. Currently it shows it to be "msachi" but I have read it is better to use the Intel Rapid Storage drivers.

My question is, how can I find out if my Sata port is an intel and is it recommended I install the intel drivers for my SSD??

btw...I have attached a snip of what my Device managers shows.
 

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My Computer My Computer

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Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit
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i7-3770
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ASUS P8Z77-V Deluxe
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G.Skill 2133MHz - 16 GB
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ASUS GTX 670
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motherboard
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OCZ Agility 4 - 128GB
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Microsoft Desktop 600
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Microsof Desktop 600
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Seriously impressed with the difference adding an SSD has made to my old [Oct 2009] Dell XPS 16. Feels like its good to go now for a few more year. Boots in about 20 seconds, and shuts down in about 5 seconds...Love it.

Other than some tweaks mentioned here, I have a question regarding the ACHI driver. Currently it shows it to be "msachi" but I have read it is better to use the Intel Rapid Storage drivers.

My question is, how can I find out if my Sata port is an intel and is it recommended I install the intel drivers for my SSD??

btw...I have attached a snip of what my Device managers shows.
No mate just install the driver for the drive it really has nothing to do with Intel per se' it is just added to your system:)

Now the chipset / hardware drivers can be updated from the manufacturers and as you have no system specs around it is hard to guide you to them
Try this and post back http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/180324-system-info-see-your-system-specs.html
 

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Thanks IC, currently just using the default windows drivers, system appears to be happy and stable. Just thought since i added an SSD, I may have been able to squeeze out a bit more out of the SSD using the Intel drivers.

Otherwise it is using the MS ACHI driver currently and no issues with that.
 

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Thanks for your very helpful information. I have just installed a 120GB Kingston SSD for my primary OS drive and did a new clean OS installation of Windows 7 Pro Oem with all of my other drives disconnected. On re boot of my new system setup, I then started trying some of your recommendations. When I entered the locations in services, I found that most of them were set to manual and I assume that if that is the case, I do not need to disable them and that some like defrag can be performed on my HDDs manually when needed without affecting My SSD OS. I don't know if Kingston's SSD made these changes since I had not reviewed the Services prior to SSD Install. Has anyone else experienced a similar situation or does Windows 7 now set these automatically when and SSD is installed.
 

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Thanks for your very helpful information. I have just installed a 120GB Kingston SSD for my primary OS drive and did a new clean OS installation of Windows 7 Pro Oem with all of my other drives disconnected. On re boot of my new system setup, I then started trying some of your recommendations. When I entered the locations in services, I found that most of them were set to manual and I assume that if that is the case, I do not need to disable them and that some like defrag can be performed on my HDDs manually when needed without affecting My SSD OS. I don't know if Kingston's SSD made these changes since I had not reviewed the Services prior to SSD Install. Has anyone else experienced a similar situation or does Windows 7 now set these automatically when and SSD is installed.
Albert in a nutshell Windows "sees" the SSD (any brand) when the OS is installed.
Have a read of these and although you have already done the install they may come in handy later but they have some interesting reading - if you want to of course
http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/113967-ssd-alignment.html

http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/91339-ssd-hdd-optimize-windows-reinstallation.html

This one may interest you too
http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/11728-optimize-windows-7-a.html
 

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Desk1 Samsung 120GB 830 SSD
Asus ROG 256GB 850 Pro SSD
Desk2 Samsung 840 256 SSD
Toshiba 120GB EVO
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Fans on all Desk1 -2 Desk2 - all Coolermasters 5 Laptop ?
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Desk 1 MS Sidewinder X6 Desk 2 MS Sidewinder X 4
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Desk 1&2 - Gigabyte MS 900 gamer - laptop - Logitec wireless
Internet Speed
ADSL2+
Other Info
One other Desktop (tester) and spare Toshba laptop both with SSD's
Running Kaspersky 2016 ISS on all machines config'd identically
Logitec audio stereo systems on each machine (x3)
Canon MG5250MFC
Router/modem TP-Link running WPA2SK
To check the alignment type msinfo32 into start/search and hit Enter. Then in the left pane open Components, then Storage and go to Disks. There you can see the offset.

Just came across this thread and checking my alignment.

What should I have?

My Partition Starting Offset is - 1,048,576 bytes

Is it aligned ok??

NVM guys, I read in a previous post within the thread that number for a Samsung drive is correct. Mine is a Samsung SSD 830.
That alignment is OK. 1048K is standard and divisible by 4.
 

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Next, we need to make sure our ATA/ATAPI ACHI controller is set to use trim.
EDIT! 3/22/10: The new INTEL chipset drivers 9.6.0.1014 support TRIM! he new INTEL chipset drivers 9.6.0.1014 support TRIM! Use these instead of the MS AHCI ones for Intel Chipsets.

Reading that windows 7 will take care of the proper installation of my new SSD, without having to play around, I'll assume that TRIM and ATA/ATAPI ACHI controller is set to use trim will be included properly in a re-install of 7. That being said, I was trying to determine if this think pad:

Detailed specifications - ThinkPad T410

fell into the realm of the quoted text and if so would I need to do this manually or would 7 installer handle that as well? It is a factory refurbish, with windows 7 pro 64bit, which I will be performing a reinstall on the SSD

Getting a Samsung 840 pro 256GB btw

Also Enableing Write Caching, is this still a preferred method for SSDs?
 
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Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64-bit SP1
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Intel(R) Core(TM) i5 CPU M 520 @ 2.40GHz
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8.00 GB
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NVIDIA NVS 3100M
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Hard Drives
Samsung SSD 840 PRO Series ATA Device
Trim works automatically in Windows 7. There is really nothing you need to do. It is a good idea though not to fill the SSD to the rim. 10 to 15% freespace make the garbage collection easier.

Setting Windows 7 and the BIOS to AHCI is a good idea for slightly better performance. I set Write caching on in my systems. But I have never measured whether that make a difference one way or the other.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HP, Dell, Gateway, Toshiba - 4 laptops and 2 desktops
OS
Vista, Windows7, Mint Mate, Zorin, Windows 8
CPU
from 1.6GHz Duo to i7
Monitor(s) Displays
2x HP w2207
Hard Drives
5x HDD, 7x SSD, 12x Externals
Keyboard
with trackball - no mices
Mouse
Trackball mice
Internet Speed
DSL 6000
Trim works automatically in Windows 7. There is really nothing you need to do. It is a good idea though not to fill the SSD to the rim. 10 to 15% freespace make the garbage collection easier.

Setting Windows 7 and the BIOS to AHCI is a good idea for slightly better performance. I set Write caching on in my systems. But I have never measured whether that make a difference one way or the other.

so with this
Intel Core i5 2.66Ghz Dual Core / 560M L3 cache - 3.0 MB 64bit QM57 Express Chipset with Intel vPro Technology
"

would you recommend use the chipset driver instead of the MS AHCI for TRIM, even though windows 7 has it set automatically? this is the only thing that is still confusing me
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64-bit SP1
CPU
Intel(R) Core(TM) i5 CPU M 520 @ 2.40GHz
Motherboard
Dell Inc. 0K42JR
Memory
8.00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA NVS 3100M
Sound Card
(1) NVIDIA High Definition Audio (2) IDT High Definition A
Monitor(s) Displays
1
Screen Resolution
1440 x 900 x 32 bits (4294967296 colors) @ 59 Hz
Hard Drives
Samsung SSD 840 PRO Series ATA Device
Thiese are the current drivers on the laptop, which I have updated both intel and dell drivers upon installation.devices.png

There is no IDE ATA/ATAPI controllers option available to choose from. Is this a problem? Also when I check the BIOS there is an option for ACHI, but the next option below it is selected by default titled "Intel Rapid Restore Technology RAID"

Should I leave this be or is there something missing in the way of a driver AND/OR changing the BIOS as well?
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64-bit SP1
CPU
Intel(R) Core(TM) i5 CPU M 520 @ 2.40GHz
Motherboard
Dell Inc. 0K42JR
Memory
8.00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA NVS 3100M
Sound Card
(1) NVIDIA High Definition Audio (2) IDT High Definition A
Monitor(s) Displays
1
Screen Resolution
1440 x 900 x 32 bits (4294967296 colors) @ 59 Hz
Hard Drives
Samsung SSD 840 PRO Series ATA Device
Hey guys!
Been awhile,,, So about 2yrs ago I followed lightningltd's tutorial here and let me tell you everythings has been sweet, flawless and super fast! I do/did have something bogging my boot for awhile recently and I couldn't figure out what but I think it was a usb port in use and or because i had dvd's in my drives, anyhow after a process of elimination fixed that I still have 30 sec or less of boot time. I just used a small 60 OCZ Agility SSD drive and well now its getting older,,,, I feel I want to upgrade so im going to purchase a newer larger SSD today, I don't have a lot of money so its still going to be small just a 120 but hey that's double what I have and I still have tons of storage space on other HDD's I have installed.

So my question is would I be better off just cloning my present SSD over to the new one and or just doing a complete fresh install and then find and install all my programs drivers ect...
And secondly I did make an image backup when I installed the OCZ after I had everything installed like drivers antivirus and stuff like that and ive kept that set away to the side BUT afraid if I reinstall from that then I still need updates, have lost account passwords (though they are backed up too its just tedious ect..) and im worried about having problems reinstalling the backup

Help me decide the best route to go!! Im thinking start fresh with everything and just deal with a few lost programs and accounts that can all be reset or re-found again anyway. But im also thinking the Image route maybe a faster quicker route than anything.


OPINIONS Please!!
Thanks
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
JRockZ
OS
Win 7 64 Ultimate
CPU
AMD 8350 Bulldozer 4ghz
Motherboard
Asus M5a97 R2
Memory
6gb
Graphics Card(s)
ATI Radeon HD 5770 X 2
Sound Card
Board
Monitor(s) Displays
Dual Gateway 19" and 32" TV 3 displays at once :D
Screen Resolution
1440X900
Hard Drives
OCZ Agility SSD Patriot Blaze 120
PSU
750 Watt Thermaltake Tough Power
Case
Diablotek EVO Mid Tower Case CPA-6170 - 8X 120mm case fans
Cooling
Corsair Liquid Cooled
Antivirus
NAV
Browser
Always IE
I would try the cloning first to save time, if you are not happy, then go for the clean install.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dude Build
OS
Windows 10 Pro X64
CPU
Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-3570K CPU OC@ 4.5GHZ Turbo
Motherboard
MSI Z77A-G45 Gaming
Memory
8.00 GB DDR3 1600Mhz
Graphics Card(s)
MSI Gaming X GTX 1070
Sound Card
Realtek High Definition
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S23O9W, HP L1710
Screen Resolution
DELL-1920 x 1080 HP-1280 x1024
Hard Drives
Crucial m4 256 SSD, WD 7200RPM 500GB WD 1TB
PSU
Seasonic X650 GOLD
Case
Zalman Z12
Cooling
Antec Kuhler 920
Keyboard
Logitech
Mouse
MSI DS100 Interceptor
Internet Speed
50 down and 5 up
Antivirus
MSE
Browser
Chrome, IE 11
Other Info
Logitech X-620 Speakers
Dude!

I think your right! just wondering if theres anything special I should do?
if all settings will transfer in the clone, id guess so since it would be an exact image,,, what about drive prep?
I purchased a brand new Patriot Blaze 120 which should be a little faster as well. I figure if all goes well then I will wipe the OCZ and add it as a second storage drive and to link my temp files to and I also have an additional 320gb WD HDD, Im not a space needer you couldn't give me a 1 terabyte drive id never need it all I have to much junk as it is plus theres so many free or inexpensive "cloud' type services now too if I ever needed more space i can find it or add another storage drive.

Hmmm now that I think of it I better remember to unlink my temp files that lead to my 320 WD HDD before I do the clone,,, right?
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
JRockZ
OS
Win 7 64 Ultimate
CPU
AMD 8350 Bulldozer 4ghz
Motherboard
Asus M5a97 R2
Memory
6gb
Graphics Card(s)
ATI Radeon HD 5770 X 2
Sound Card
Board
Monitor(s) Displays
Dual Gateway 19" and 32" TV 3 displays at once :D
Screen Resolution
1440X900
Hard Drives
OCZ Agility SSD Patriot Blaze 120
PSU
750 Watt Thermaltake Tough Power
Case
Diablotek EVO Mid Tower Case CPA-6170 - 8X 120mm case fans
Cooling
Corsair Liquid Cooled
Antivirus
NAV
Browser
Always IE
I think the clone transfer will take care of everything
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dude Build
OS
Windows 10 Pro X64
CPU
Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-3570K CPU OC@ 4.5GHZ Turbo
Motherboard
MSI Z77A-G45 Gaming
Memory
8.00 GB DDR3 1600Mhz
Graphics Card(s)
MSI Gaming X GTX 1070
Sound Card
Realtek High Definition
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S23O9W, HP L1710
Screen Resolution
DELL-1920 x 1080 HP-1280 x1024
Hard Drives
Crucial m4 256 SSD, WD 7200RPM 500GB WD 1TB
PSU
Seasonic X650 GOLD
Case
Zalman Z12
Cooling
Antec Kuhler 920
Keyboard
Logitech
Mouse
MSI DS100 Interceptor
Internet Speed
50 down and 5 up
Antivirus
MSE
Browser
Chrome, IE 11
Other Info
Logitech X-620 Speakers

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My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Own build (new) Desk1 / Asus ROG Win 7 / Desk2 1st build
OS
Desk1 7 Home Prem / Desk2 10 Pro / Main lap Asus ROG 10 Pro 2 laptop Toshiba 7 Pro Asus P2520 7 & 10
CPU
Desk1 i5 3750K / Laptop i7 GTX 860M / Desk2 i5 2500
Motherboard
Desk1 Asus P877-V / Desk2 Gigabyte H67 UD3H / Laptop ?
Memory
Desk1 8GB (1866) / Desk2 16GB (1333) / Laptop 8Gb DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
Desk 1& 2NVidia GTX 650 & Laptops on board Intel
Sound Card
Desk 1 & 2 -XONAR DG Realtek High Def audio Laptop
Monitor(s) Displays
Desk 1 Benq HD 2450 / Desk2 Philips 24" / Laptop 17.5"
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 D1 & D2 & Laptop 1
Hard Drives
Desk1 Samsung 120GB 830 SSD
Asus ROG 256GB 850 Pro SSD
Desk2 Samsung 840 256 SSD
Toshiba 120GB EVO
PSU
Desk 1 Corsair HX 1050/ Laptop ? / Desk 2 Corsair HX 650
Case
Desk 1 Cooler HAF XM ? Toshiba laptop / Desk2 Coolermaster
Cooling
Fans on all Desk1 -2 Desk2 - all Coolermasters 5 Laptop ?
Keyboard
Desk 1 MS Sidewinder X6 Desk 2 MS Sidewinder X 4
Mouse
Desk 1&2 - Gigabyte MS 900 gamer - laptop - Logitec wireless
Internet Speed
ADSL2+
Other Info
One other Desktop (tester) and spare Toshba laptop both with SSD's
Running Kaspersky 2016 ISS on all machines config'd identically
Logitec audio stereo systems on each machine (x3)
Canon MG5250MFC
Router/modem TP-Link running WPA2SK
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