Solved GPU and CPU overheating and overloading when the PC is idle.

Okay so here is the problem.. When i leave my PC idle (without moving the mouse), the GPU workload jumps from 0% to 100% and the temperature from 35 to 50 instantly. Same with the CPU.I don't have anything open when this starts happening except Open Hardware Monitor which i use to monitor the temps of the PC. I should also mention that this does not happen when i have the Task Manager opened, which leads me to believe (as i read on few forums) that this problem might be caused by a Bitcoin Miner. I used Malwarebytes and few other antivirus programs but neither of them found a virus. Whenever i format my PC (because of this issue) , the problem appears again after a few days. So, if it is a Bitcoin Miner can it be in the BIOS ? .... Any help would be really appreciated ....

GPU : Gigabyte GTX 980
CPU : Intel Core i7 950
Motherboard : Gigabyte x58-USB 3
Memory : 6 GB DDR3
OS : Windows 7 Ultimate x64

Hello and welcome Simeon mate first check thoroughly if you haven't already the inside of the machine for dust and general crud especially the cooling fins of the CPU and GPU plus any case ventilating fans. Now what sort of temps are we talking here??

Plus personally I would be running these
http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/1538-sfc-scannow-command-system-file-checker.html
http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/433-disk-check.html < if necessary include the /f and /r in the command line as per Option2
Run these in safe mode and the sfc often best run for two to three runs

if no fix then these

SUPERAntiSpyware | Remove Malware | Remove Spyware - AntiMalware, AntiSpyware, AntiAdware!
Malwarebytes | Malwarebytes Anti-Malware Premium
AdwCleaner Download
ADW download from bleeping computer delete any rubbish found with the malware scans
(NB If you are running Kaspersky as the main AV then it might need disabling it when trying ADW because it does not like it at times)

do what I have suggested as starting point.


Edit: Now if these do not find anything run this it will run in a non Windows environment and scan everything Kaspersky Rescue Disk 10

Thank you for replying.
The first image is before the process starts

https://s31.postimg.org/vxa3mjy17/image.png

And this second image is after the PC is idle for about 1 min. By the way , the temperatures are going up to 70-80 C if i don't move the mouse.

https://s31.postimg.org/lfk1qsx6z/image.png

Also, i already cleaned all the dust from the PC, that's not the issue.
I ran a system scan and no problems were detected. Also tried Malwarebytes and ADW but still the same issue.Just finished with Super Anti Malware program you suggested, nothing out of the ordinary Adware Tracking Cookies found .... deleted it all , nothing changed ..

Ok before we go ahead with the Kaspersky rescue disk see this and let us know the results
Using HW Info
PART A:
You can test the volts on the PSU with HW Info HWiNFO, HWiNFO32/64 - Download < download the right bit version and close the right hand window select Sensors and scroll down to the power section where you will see what the volts are doing see my pic. In my pic the section (Nuvoton) with VBATT as a dead give away you are in the section for the rail voltages. There are other section titles and one that pops up often is ITE (sometimes the usual one for Gigabyte boards)
Now the voltage on the different rails have to be within 5% =+/- of what is required or the machine will not work properly if at all.
Limits +/-
12v = 11.4 – 12.6v
5v = 4.74 – 5.25v
3.3v = 3.135 – 3.465v
The Power good signal voltage at pin 8 on the 24 pin plug (grey cable) should be the same as the 5v rail reading/s
See this for the rail voltage info
PSUs 101: A Detailed Look Into Power Supplies (Section 2.)
The original right hand window shows the machine running and is handy for that but for looking at the components in some detail close it and use the main left hand side panel
FOR OTHER COMPONENTS
PART B:
Open each small square with + in it on the section the components are in and then click on the individual component/s (it will highlight in blue) - in the right hand side will appear all sorts of details including brands speeds and other essential info that particular device. See pic for example.

Now you may think the PSU has nothing to od with anything but it is very often missed as a cause of problems it doesn't take long to do and I would like to see what the rail volts are for your PSU see the pic of my Ivy (Asus board ) build for an idea of what you are looking for.

Here are the results. From what i understood i think this is what i am supposed to look at. Is it normal for the +12V to be 2.0-- ?

Ok mate looking at the rail volts you can see the 12v rail is so out of whack and is probably the worst I have ever seen - see pic.

Now the only way to confirm that fault is to measure it witha digital multimeter black lead to any black on the 24 pin plug and the red lead to any yellow on that same plug. Don't use one of the old analogue meters though they inject typically 9v into a circuit to test. If that reading comes back the same the PSU is no good.

See this https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_supply_unit_(computer) < scroll down that page and you will come to a large diagram of where to find the rails on the 24 pin plug

Okay i'll check that and get back with the results . Thank you.

Ok mat one thing I did think of is that you can also check the volts in the BIOS though I always think the meter method just cannot be wrong. By the by what is your PSU - brand and wattage.

My PSU is - Cooler Master 850W Silent Pro. I will check the BIOS too.

Here is a link for the PSU.
Cooler Master: Support

Ok mate now just how old is the PSU as well no rush though do what you have to first. Now this might sound a bit odd but shining a very bright light into the PSU can yu see much dust etc and also the caps you can see are there any that look bloated and is there any hot resin smell being blown out.

Just to remind you and I am guessing you know DO NOT attempt doing anything with the PSU internals there are potentially lethal voltages generated inside - a bit like the energies you would expect in a heart defibrillator.

It was a bitcoin miner after all dude ... File named nvtray.exe 32 in the uTorrent directory .. I scanned it on virustotal and corresponds with bitcoin miner trojan, so since i deleted it i haven't had the same issue. I just hope this was the problem and that won't occur again. I will check the issue with the PSU also. Thank you for your help man.

Good stuff mate and I am guessing the rescue disk may well have picked that up but I stand to be corrected.

Personally I have never used uTorrent stuff as I think it leave one open a bit to intrusions.

Now the PSU if you can test the 12v rail with a digital meter it would be good as HW is not infallible because that is heck of a drop for 12v - but in my experience it is just about always on the money. If you do go for a new PSU choose wisely and not because it is cheap and a good thing to do is ask in here if you get stuck.

Now if I were you I would get some security on the machine if you haven't already and if it is free stuff you want see this Free Windows Desktop Software Security List | Gizmo's Freeware > Real Time list but avoid the AVG, Comodo, and MuckAfee if I were you.

One last thing - if you do not mind losing some of the "bling" like transparency for example see this for something to spruce the machine up.
http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/11728-optimize-windows-7-a.html

Thank you for the suggestions man. Personally i have never had good luck with antiviruses though .... except with Kaspersky but when Kaspersky was actually good ... last i used was Malwarebytes although obviously even Malwarebytes couldn't detect the bitcoin miner...

Ok well I have used Kaspersky on all my machines (6) for over five years now and it is good and cheap.

Some I use on a regular basis are these
SUPERAntiSpyware | Remove Malware | Remove Spyware - AntiMalware, AntiSpyware, AntiAdware!
Malwarebytes | Malwarebytes Anti-Malware Premium
AdwCleaner Download
ADW download from bleeping computer delete any rubbish found with the malware scans
(NB If you are running Kaspersky as the main AV then it might need disabling it when trying ADW because it does not like it at times)

You have used the MBAM of course

ICIT2LOL said:

Now the only way to confirm that fault is to measure it witha digital multimeter black lead to any black on the 24 pin plug and the red lead to any yellow on that same plug. Don't use one of the old analogue meters though they inject typically 9v into a circuit to test

Click to expand...

If you are referring to old style moving coil test meter as in AVO etc, they only inject volts into a circuit when testing resistance (ohms). The meter applies volts to the component (most likely a detached component) and the current passed gives the resistance reading. A DVM works in the same fashion when measuring resistance - also injects volts - but with lower current because the DVM amplifies.

When measuring volts, an analog AVO draws a small amount of current from the circuit to drive the sensitive needle assembly (it does not inject any volts). A DVM works in the same fashion, but needs to draw less current because the DVM amplifies. When measuring volts a DVM loads the circuit less than an analog meter, and so gives a more accurate reading (esp on a high impedance circuit) - but this won't apply to a low impedance psu.

The OP can safely use an analog test meter to measure his psu volts output.

FYI I worked as an electrical engineer for 20 years, and during that time DVMs became available - so I'm quite conversant with both types of test meter and how they work.

When measuring volts, an analog AVO draws a small amount of current from the circuit to drive the sensitive needle assembly (it does not inject any volts).

Click to expand...

Agreed mate and a valid point - I and you know this but I always state that because you have to take into consideration the reader may not always be familiar with that fact and may even touch something that is affected by the meters voltage. Again I would not like to get someone to do something that has the possibility of causing damage as opposed to not -(no offence)